Thanks for the specs! The factory service manually says to replace the nuts (front) and bolts (rear) anyway.
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Eibach Sway Bars Finally Available?
- Thread starter Pingpong
- Start date
Thanks for the specs! The factory service manually says to replace the nuts (front) and bolts (rear) anyway.
Miztawizord
Member
Just installed both bars and thank you for mentioning the longer bolts! This would've been a further pain putting this back on with the factory bolts.
The rear took me about an hour to put on as I did it in my driveway with a floor jack and stands. Whoever did it in 15 mins (somewhere on here) must be part of an F1 team or only did a '1 foot rollout' after the undertray was taken off and hoisted up. lol.
The fronts were a bit of a pain to install as you reuse the factory bushing bracket. Pressing it in and aligning it back when installing was some work. Maybe I was doing it wrong?! probably...
I chose the middle hole on the front and the firmest on the rear. The car to me delivers a more confident feel and doesn't have a quick twitch feel that I thought I would get by using the middle hole of the front. All in all a great upgrade over stock.
For a $200 difference the UP's might come with a new front bracket? makes the price difference seem not as distant. This did add 30 + minutes and a workout to the install process for me.
The flanges are unneccesary, but to each his/her own - UP, MPP, Eibach, whatever. SSDD.
The trick with the FSB OE bushings is to lube them a bit prior to removal from the brackets... for anyone who got them off, you probably noticed they have little notches formed into the rubber that clip into openings in the OE brackets. These help to lock and hold them in place.
Best to release them with a large flathead and they come out very easy.
The poly replacements (at least from Eibach but likely from any/all aftermarket companies) do not have those notches but do have the spine buldge that mates with the inner surface of the OE bracket.
Press them in as far as they will go and let the bracket hardware retorquing do the rest.
The trick with the FSB OE bushings is to lube them a bit prior to removal from the brackets... for anyone who got them off, you probably noticed they have little notches formed into the rubber that clip into openings in the OE brackets. These help to lock and hold them in place.
Best to release them with a large flathead and they come out very easy.
The poly replacements (at least from Eibach but likely from any/all aftermarket companies) do not have those notches but do have the spine buldge that mates with the inner surface of the OE bracket.
Press them in as far as they will go and let the bracket hardware retorquing do the rest.
Miztawizord
Member
I'm glad I had a vice to push them in most the way. Also, it's good if you have the eibach bushing installed with the slit/opening side towards the rear of the car. This will help when bolting mount back in place. May be indifferent if you have a lift.
The flanges are at user discretion. I don't think I'll ever be close to a driving skill to tell the difference in the sway bar shifting, if it even does.
Here are the SS flange bolts I used on the back with the Eibach RSB. You need four of them to replace the stock (tad too short ones). These are the perfect length and fit.
M10x1.5x25 corse thread, M15 flange.
M10x1.5x25 corse thread, M15 flange.
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NJturtlePower
Living the Dream, Driving the Future!
NJturtlePower
Living the Dream, Driving the Future!
FYI AutoAnything.com has an early July 4th sale going... Promo code USA20 (20% off) doesn't seem to work for any Eibach products, but USA10 (10% off) DOES work on the full Eibach Pro-Plus Kit for anyone interested...Comes to $531 + FREE S/H. 
NOTE: The model number in the screenshot is for a Model 3 LR RWD so just search for your application as needed.
NOTE: The model number in the screenshot is for a Model 3 LR RWD so just search for your application as needed.
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Installed my bars today...
I don't think so, it's just a consequence of the design. The UP bushings are "self-centering" since they have a lip on the sides. So it takes a bit more care to install the Eibachs. I accidentally installed the brackets on the wrong side; I swapped them while under the car, thus making my life even harder
That being said I like that the Eibach bushings are under a lot more load than the UP bushings. They have a tighter fit in the clamps, and more material to compress once you clamp them down.
I chose the same settings. I ran soft up front, middle in rear with the UP bars and wanted to try stiffening both ends. I like it better, especially in the rear.
By eye-ball measurement, I would say the two holes on the Eibach rear bar correspond to the middle and firm holes on the UP bar; I.e. the UP bar's third setting would be softer. Would be nice if Eibach just published the rates
The UP bars do *not* include front brackets. Also the rear brackets are steel on the UP set, not aluminum. The major difference in construction between the two is that the UP end tabs are welded, as well as the flanges. The Eibach bars appear to be press-welded? The point being the UP bars are probably a bit more expensive to produce (not $200 more though). Also the UP bars appear to have a more expensive paint finish, though mine arrived chipped in the box regardless.
I don't think so, it's just a consequence of the design. The UP bushings are "self-centering" since they have a lip on the sides. So it takes a bit more care to install the Eibachs. I accidentally installed the brackets on the wrong side; I swapped them while under the car, thus making my life even harder
That being said I like that the Eibach bushings are under a lot more load than the UP bushings. They have a tighter fit in the clamps, and more material to compress once you clamp them down.
I chose the same settings. I ran soft up front, middle in rear with the UP bars and wanted to try stiffening both ends. I like it better, especially in the rear.
By eye-ball measurement, I would say the two holes on the Eibach rear bar correspond to the middle and firm holes on the UP bar; I.e. the UP bar's third setting would be softer. Would be nice if Eibach just published the rates
The UP bars do *not* include front brackets. Also the rear brackets are steel on the UP set, not aluminum. The major difference in construction between the two is that the UP end tabs are welded, as well as the flanges. The Eibach bars appear to be press-welded? The point being the UP bars are probably a bit more expensive to produce (not $200 more though). Also the UP bars appear to have a more expensive paint finish, though mine arrived chipped in the box regardless.
Installed my bars today...
I don't think so, it's just a consequence of the design. The UP bushings are "self-centering" since they have a lip on the sides. So it takes a bit more care to install the Eibachs. I accidentally installed the brackets on the wrong side; I swapped them while under the car, thus making my life even harder
That being said I like that the Eibach bushings are under a lot more load than the UP bushings. They have a tighter fit in the clamps, and more material to compress once you clamp them down.
I chose the same settings. I ran soft up front, middle in rear with the UP bars and wanted to try stiffening both ends. I like it better, especially in the rear.
By eye-ball measurement, I would say the two holes on the Eibach rear bar correspond to the middle and firm holes on the UP bar; I.e. the UP bar's third setting would be softer. Would be nice if Eibach just published the rates
The UP bars do *not* include front brackets. Also the rear brackets are steel on the UP set, not aluminum. The major difference in construction between the two is that the UP end tabs are welded, as well as the flanges. The Eibach bars appear to be press-welded? The point being the UP bars are probably a bit more expensive to produce (not $200 more though). Also the UP bars appear to have a more expensive paint finish, though mine arrived chipped in the box regardless.
Thanks for the non biased review. I know Eibach is a reputable company but they make products for every car manufacturer and is imported in but UP is a small business and USA based. That’s where probably the spread is and the differences you stated.
I went to Tesla Service to get new nuts for installing F/R Eibach bars. Parts guy was out
& Service writer agreed to help. I had print out with part numbers. They had the nuts for front
brackets & end links, but not for rear end links. He agreed to order them which really surprised me.
I received text (I know they don't answer phone) to check back in a few days. Also received email showing order placed.
Never expected this type of service. Nonetheless, the nuts for the front brackets didn't fit so I reused originals.
The ones for the front end links did fit. Front bar is set to middle hole. Rear bar going in soon. Got longer bolts as
suggested here. May not wait on new end link nuts.
& Service writer agreed to help. I had print out with part numbers. They had the nuts for front
brackets & end links, but not for rear end links. He agreed to order them which really surprised me.
I received text (I know they don't answer phone) to check back in a few days. Also received email showing order placed.
Never expected this type of service. Nonetheless, the nuts for the front brackets didn't fit so I reused originals.
The ones for the front end links did fit. Front bar is set to middle hole. Rear bar going in soon. Got longer bolts as
suggested here. May not wait on new end link nuts.
Dolemite
is my name
Any advice or instruction I've ever received to replace nuts when installing parts has been strictly ignored. If it's a locking nut I just apply Loctite.
On my ex-BMW there was a front brace with a number of bolts that "required" replacement every time you removed it (which was often, since it leaked oil like a sieve). That would be $40 - $50 every time you needed to remove the brace. I replaced those exactly 0 times.
Never had any issues. YMMV.
On my ex-BMW there was a front brace with a number of bolts that "required" replacement every time you removed it (which was often, since it leaked oil like a sieve). That would be $40 - $50 every time you needed to remove the brace. I replaced those exactly 0 times.
Never had any issues. YMMV.
The BMW issue is probably different though. I believe they use "stretch bolts" like VAG. Way more dangerous to reuse stretch bolts than locknuts. Not that it can't be done, just need to be more careful.
Clivew
Member
All bolts stretch when you torque them, it’s the ‘stretch’ that keeps them tight. It’s when they are overtightened and enter their plastic region that they need replacing, or when they have been tightened multiple times (cyclic load) so that their ultimate tensile strength is reduced and cracks may start to form.
This is normally only a problem with fasteners that are under extremely high stress, such as conrod bolts or head bolts on a high HP motor. Even the main bolts holding a turbofan engine to a B737 are reused after being cracked tested, and you’d be surprised how small they are, and how few there are!
Dolemite
is my name
Yeah for something like this I would 100000% use new hardware. But for a part with some non-critical purpose.... meh.
Hi all,
I'm highly considering the Eibach sway bars and PRO KIT Performance Springs. Do I need to also get the adjustable end link system?
I don't plan on changing the bars much at all - after all based on what I'm reading here, I'll go for the middle bolt up front and the firmest in the rear - based on that, I shouldn't need the end link system, correct?
Lift Kits, Lowering Springs, Race Springs, Shocks & Sway Bars
I have a 2020 Model 3 Performance and I'm having an issue on the AutoAnything site. It says they don't have an Eibach Pro Plus Suspension Kit for my model: Eibach Pro-Plus Suspension Kit
The message on the site is: This Product Is Not Available For Your 2020 Tesla Model 3.
Any ideas on that?
Thanks all! Glad I found this site - exactly the reviews and information I was looking for!
PS - I'll also be getting longer bolts as indicated, any issues with the Amazon link vs getting an A10 from the local shop/store?
I'm highly considering the Eibach sway bars and PRO KIT Performance Springs. Do I need to also get the adjustable end link system?
I don't plan on changing the bars much at all - after all based on what I'm reading here, I'll go for the middle bolt up front and the firmest in the rear - based on that, I shouldn't need the end link system, correct?
Lift Kits, Lowering Springs, Race Springs, Shocks & Sway Bars
I have a 2020 Model 3 Performance and I'm having an issue on the AutoAnything site. It says they don't have an Eibach Pro Plus Suspension Kit for my model: Eibach Pro-Plus Suspension Kit
The message on the site is: This Product Is Not Available For Your 2020 Tesla Model 3.
Any ideas on that?
Thanks all! Glad I found this site - exactly the reviews and information I was looking for!
PS - I'll also be getting longer bolts as indicated, any issues with the Amazon link vs getting an A10 from the local shop/store?
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