Eibach Sway Bars Finally Available?

[Skione65]

Hopefully @MountainPass is taking note of all these issues. Why can’t anyone get these right? UPPs incorrect lengths and rubbing, fix>extension on remod. Then clunking.....new Bushings. Eibachs sliding all over the place. I’ve been waiting patiently on the sidelines for all these issues to flesh out and particularly for MPPs entry. Jesse mentioned “the Fall”.....we’ll see. Be interesting to see what they come up with. Their “take” on design/engineering and such.

Ski

 

[Bigtuna00]

Eibach’s are flat bushings.

You must have a different set, the bushings that came with my Eibach bars (part E40-87-001-01-11) have ridges in the middle.

 

[Clivew]

The UP bars are better engineered by far.

So, bars too long, rubbing on suspension arms, and horrendous clunking/knocking when hitting bumps is ‘better engineering’ ?

Do you really expect people to believe your continually biased posts?

 

[TwoK4drSi]

So, bars too long, rubbing on suspension arms, and horrendous clunking/knocking when hitting bumps is ‘better engineering’ ?

Do you really expect people to believe your continually biased posts?

Actually no bc people who actually installed it correctly are happy with their noiseless bars skip over threads like these but hey...enjoy the money you saved or your better engineered bar and zero customer service.

 

[Clivew]

Actually no bc people who actually installed it correctly are happy with their noiseless bars skip over threads like these but hey...enjoy the money you saved or your better engineered bar and zero customer service.

Rubbish. Earlier bars were too long and hit other suspension components, and others had bushes that were too big causing movement of the bar and noise. I’m sure UP have sorted out those people who had issues with modified parts, and so they should. Sticking your head in the sand and denying problems helps no-one.

I saved money because I use the standard roll bars.

 

[Dolemite]

Should be ok for a good while since everything is behind the splash shields... unlike on most autos where the sways and bushings are exposed to the elements.

If they start to squeak, especially in or after heavy rains, this winter, etc take them off and re-lube with this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01606TCAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.AJcFbP50HWY8
or this stuff:
Energy Suspension Formula 5 Bushing Prelube

Reached out to Eibach... awaiting reply. You used a lift, correct? Was wondering if it may have something to do with how I lowered the car (I was using Rennstands). I highly doubt that should create problems - if you used a lift to do your install, that confirms it.

Edit: Ok, Eibach just called me back. Guy I spoke with said that a little bit of walk is okay, not worth worrying about, and that it wouldn't change the driving dynamics (I'm sure someone will chime in on the veracity of this).

He also said that they thoroughly test these things at the factory @ full compression & rebound to ensure that even if there were some walk, there'd be enough clearance from any suspension components to render it a non-issue. This was on factory suspension.

What I'm not clear on (and he couldn't speak to) was: 1) what is "factory suspension?" Base or P3D+? Although damper travel on both is probably pretty similar, 2) what happens if I lower the car on coilovers, which is coming, and 3) whether much shorter/longer adjustable end links could create problems? Just "thinking out loud."

He also said sway bar clamps are a totally acceptable solution if you really want to remedy the walk. I even asked if there was any concern between the friction of the clamp/bushing or anything like that & he said not at all.

 

[Perscitus]

Good stuff Dolemite 'of Dolomites'.

Yes, a lift in all cases (removal of stock parts, install of Eibach anti-sways, inspection after driving, change of rear bracket bolts, etc)

In my case the shift was more than I think we should feel comfortable with, and wouldnt go back without a crowbar and plenty elbow grease.

Nonetheless, I can also confirm that 1.5K miles later, with the lateral locks in place, zero movement.

 

[Dolemite]

Word - I'm just gonna roll with it and see what happens. If it starts slamming into *sugar*, I'll be calling them again.

 

[Bigtuna00]

What I'm not clear on (and he couldn't speak to) was: 1) what is "factory suspension?" Base or P3D+? Although damper travel on both is probably pretty similar, 2) what happens if I lower the car on coilovers, which is coming

"Factory suspension" doesn't really mean anything in this context unless you've changed the length of the suspension arms. The range of motion is the same regardless of whether or not you're lowered. The damper doesn't change the geometry of the suspension travel. When you lower you just reduce the total compression travel.*

*The exception is coilovers that have adjustable height (vs preload) a la UP and Redwood. It still won't change the geometry but it will allow you to travel outside the stock range. But adjusting outside the factory range for a street-driven car is a bad idea regardless.

*Maybe one other exception is if you cut the bump stops, which allows the car to compress more. This is common with lowering springs, though I don't think any of the vendors doing Tesla springs recommend it, too paranoid of destroying the battery

 

[Dolemite]

"Factory suspension" doesn't really mean anything in this context unless you've changed the length of the suspension arms. The range of motion is the same regardless of whether or not you're lowered. The damper doesn't change the geometry of the suspension travel. When you lower you just reduce the total compression travel.*

*The exception is coilovers that have adjustable height (vs preload) a la UP and Redwood. It still won't change the geometry but it will allow you to travel outside the stock range. But adjusting outside the factory range for a street-driven car is a bad idea regardless.

*Maybe one other exception is if you cut the bump stops, which allows the car to compress more. This is common with lowering springs, though I don't think any of the vendors doing Tesla springs recommend it, too paranoid of destroying the battery

Do MPP's coilovers allow for greater compression travel? I dunno... I just know that my OE P3D- suspension has <1 cm of space before the bump stops hit.

FWIW, I got underneath the car & asked my poor wife to bounce the back end of the car. The closest of the 5-point links to the sway bar seems to move in conjunction (away) from it, so from this quick "test" I don't believe there's any potential for contact.

 

[Bigtuna00]

Do MPP's coilovers allow for greater compression travel?

No, they don't. There's a post on here somewhere from @MountainPass that explains this but I can't find it. As I said, it would be unsafe. Generally you only do this for track applications where you can be sure the kind of travel range you can deal with.

 

[MountainPass]

That is correct, our coilovers are designed for maximum travel stopping before any suspension components or the car itself can smash into itself/the ground. If you use adjustable damper bodies and get it wrong, you can do both those things! I have lots to say about the shifting bars and whatnot but can't comment on it right now

 

[Dolemite]

yes pls school us soon

 

[NJturtlePower]

*Maybe one other exception is if you cut the bump stops, which allows the car to compress more. This is common with lowering springs, though I don't think any of the vendors doing Tesla springs recommend it, too paranoid of destroying the battery

Eibach sure does recommend cutting the bump stops... Have others done it or just running with the OEM bumps?

Having the full Eibach Pro-Plus kit (Springs & Sways) installed tomorrow on my 2018 LR RWD.

 

[Perscitus]

TMNTs from NYC say - give those bump stops a haircut and let us know how it goes in 1-2K miles with the kit on.

Same or day-after 'transformed' posts are not objective enough. First let them settle, then savor some potholes, cobble stone road sections (ideally with a few missing cobbles), uneven pavement, extra tall or harsh speed bumps, and steep grade parking lot exit ramps with visible bottom-out scarring.

Worse case, you order new OE bump stops and get back in there before winter or if/when going back to stock.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Same or day-after 'transformed' posts are not objective enough. First let them settle, then savor some potholes, cobble stone road sections (ideally with a few missing cobbles), uneven pavement, extra tall or harsh speed bumps, and steep grade parking lot exit ramps with visible bottom-out scarring.

Sooo for my day of transformed post..... I'll just stick to the sway details for this thread.

Had a full Eibach Pro-Plus kit installed on my 2018 LR RWD today.....

Started off with the "Soft" setting on both front and rear sways and used the upgraded longer bolts for the rear brackets as suggested here...the shop agreed.

IMO this is how the car should look and drive from the factory! Corners flatter and more confident, ride is actually softer on road imperfections and now looks like it performs. Took some uphill ramps much more confidently at high speed than ever before....

The front OEM bar is fairly beefy, but the rear is pretty wimpy...guessing most of the handling improvement is felt from the rear. :::INSERT::: "That's what she said" joke haha.

 

[P3D-R]

I have some bars showing up at the end of the week. It's interesting that Eibach shows stoppers in the image on their website but this is obviously not the right shape of bar. That's just not cool at all and false advertising.

 

[Bigtuna00]

I mean, they don't include most of the stuff shown in that photo (no front clamps, no washers, rear clamps look totally different...I dunno what those little black things are...). Also that photo has 3 holes in both bars. That's when I knew it was the wrong photo. But it's been that way for like a year...

 

[Perscitus]

It's just the nature of this industry or rather the ignorance and lack of attention to detail from it's markerets, e-commerce bots, vendors, jobbers, resellers, etc.

A typical stock image used to advertise and sell a generic productl, but in a model specific flavor. They might as well stamp the same on all their anti-sway bar kit offerings. I'm surprised they got the part number/s and dimensions right.

99% of the time, when it comes to any and all products (mainstream, niche, tailored), 'enthusiasts' (fanatic consumers) will always know more about a particular product than the people selling it... including the sales branch of given manufacturer, producer, developer.

Welcome to the XXIst century. Isn't it grand?

 

[JKB8]

That is correct, our coilovers are designed for maximum travel stopping before any suspension components or the car itself can smash into itself/the ground. If you use adjustable damper bodies and get it wrong, you can do both those things! I have lots to say about the shifting bars and whatnot but can't comment on it right now

Any updates on the timing of an MPP sway bar release? I would buy them today.