Eibach Sway Bars Finally Available?

[Dolemite]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082TR1WS3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thanks for the heads-up, got mine yesterday & they're very nice bolts. I think the same thing from Lowes/Home Depot (even if they sold them) would've been like $30. Hoping to finally get some parts on this car starting this weekend...

 

[Perscitus]

I added sway bar lateral locks to the front and rear sways as I recently found the rear sway shifted out of neutral position - badly.
Normal, almost grandma style driving and yet the rear was off my an least an inch.

I wrote Eibach about this with details and pics... crickets. Never seen such an amount of shifting in 20+ years of using aftermarket suspension components. Must be the rear sway geometry combined with curb weight and this car's suspension work characteristics.

The locks solved the shifting completely and fit perfect, 2 minute install. No NVH.
Universal Sway Bar Lateral Locks

While in there, I reseated and re-torqued all the wheels, re-torqued the sway brackets, end links, and a bunch of bolts on the upper control arms, toe arms, lower control arms, etc...

Clicking while turning left at low speed and with body in flex, or one wheel off the ground... and completely unrelated to the sway bars... is still there. Ugh.

 

[Dolemite]

I added sway bar lateral locks to the front and rear sways as I recently found the rear sway shifted out of neutral position - badly.
Normal, almost grandma style driving and yet the rear was off my an least an inch.

I wrote Eibach about this with details and pics... crickets. Never seen such an amount of shifting in 20+ years of using aftermarket suspension components. Must be the rear sway geometry combined with curb weight and this car's suspension work characteristics.

The locks solved the shifting completely and fit perfect, 2 minute install. No NVH.
Universal Sway Bar Lateral Locks

While in there, I reseated and re-torqued all the wheels, re-torqued the sway brackets, end links, and a bunch of bolts on the upper control arms, toe arms, lower control arms, etc...

Clicking while turning left at low speed and with body in flex, or one wheel off the ground... and completely unrelated to the sway bars... is still there. Ugh.

View attachment 562264 View attachment 562266 View attachment 562267 View attachment 562269

Unacceptable - I’m going to mark mine and see if they shift. If they do I’ll be reaching out to Eibach to resolve.

As for the clicking - Clicking noise when accelerating

 

[blaferty]

How did you know sway bar shifted from neutral position - visual inspection or change in handling?
Would it make a difference If sway bar had flanges ?

Thanks

 

[Dolemite]

It's really shocking to me that Eibach might've overlooked something like this... I plan on installing mine starting tomorrow, and if this happens, I'm gonna put it on them to take care of it.

 

[Perscitus]

I tried the same and have thus far heard back nothing. Sent them photos too.

Visual inspection while swapping the bracket bolts. Extremely easy to spot as you couldnt event remove the splash shield cleanly, it was pinched on one side by the shifted sway and odd end link angle.

Didnt really notice anything while driving (many OE and aftermarket bars shift around a bit... but not this much).

If the shift went any further, the endlinks bolts would have started to damage the wheels and or the swaybar would start to collide with the toe arms. Terrible.

On the flip side, the front sway design and perhaps the suspension configuration and working characteristics are such that it doesnt really shift around. I added the locks just for peace of mind and since they are so inexpensive.

 

[Dolemite]

god damn it. Are you racing the car or anything? Shouldn't matter, anyway.

 

[Perscitus]

Nope, see original post above Dolomite. 99% grandma mode 1% mid-life crysis.
All regular street driving. Havent been to a race track, drag strip, auto-x or rallye stage in nearly 20 years.

 

[Dolemite]

Nope, see original post above Dolomite. 99% grandma mode 1% mid-life crysis.
All regular street driving. Havent been to a race track, drag strip, auto-x or rallye stage in nearly 20 years.

Installed mine last night - didn't even make it out of the neighborhood before it was obvious to me that it REALLY tightened up the car. Big improvement for reasonable money. Can't wait to install the rest of my parts... the car is already far closer to what I'd like. Definitely increases ride harshness even going straight-ahead, but I like that kind of thing. So much more responsive.

I also drove the car for about 5 miles and... I noticed my rear bar shifted. lol. about 0.5" to the left, I'd say... I'll be contacting Eibach. FWIW, I'm on the stiffest setting in the back. Medium up-front. I wonder if it could due to be repetitive driving patterns? Like I have a steep left-hand incline out of my garage & back into my neighborhood. Who knows... but it shouldn't be happening.

Also regarding the rear bolts - I personally think it might've been OK to reuse the OEM bolts. They don't quite poke out the other side, but I think there's plenty of engagement to make it safe & reliable. Regardless, I used the ones you'd posted because they're nice.

 

[Perscitus]

Good info, same general feeling and feedback from me. Whats great is these dont create or add any noise, pops, squeaks, etc. Bushings are right-sized and silent... unlike the *caugh* competition.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Installed mine last night - didn't even make it out of the neighborhood before it was obvious to me that it REALLY tightened up the car. Big improvement for reasonable money. Can't wait to install the rest of my parts... the car is already far closer to what I'd like. Definitely increases ride harshness even going straight-ahead, but I like that kind of thing. So much more responsive.

I also drove the car for about 5 miles and... I noticed my rear bar shifted. lol. about 0.5" to the left, I'd say... I'll be contacting Eibach. FWIW, I'm on the stiffest setting in the back. Medium up-front. I wonder if it could due to be repetitive driving patterns? Like I have a steep left-hand incline out of my garage & back into my neighborhood. Who knows... but it shouldn't be happening.

Also regarding the rear bolts - I personally think it might've been OK to reuse the OEM bolts. They don't quite poke out the other side, but I think there's plenty of engagement to make it safe & reliable. Regardless, I used the ones you'd posted because they're nice.

I just got my full Eibach Pro-Plus kit delivered yesterday on a killer deal! I would be jumping on the install already if it wasnt so damn hot and humid up here right now. Already got the longer bolts from Amazon too. I'm just doing the sways and having a shop do the springs.

How did you do the install? Ramps? Jack? Rear is obviously much easier access as I understand?

I have a short set of ramps and a jack I could use to get it up a bit further if needed. I put the car on on a block of wood with a puck last time I painted the calipers one side at a time.

 

[Perscitus]

I've seen a few videos on YT where people just lifted up the front and the rear one by one (jacks, then stands or ramps) and removed and installed the anti- swaybars.

I have access to two lifts so just used those with my trusty adapter pucks. Having the car in the air made the install super quick and easy. Make sure to lube those bushings (ideally a packet per bushing even though they provide just two).

 

[Dolemite]

How did you do the install? Ramps? Jack? Rear is obviously much easier access as I understand?

I have a set of Rennstands from Safe Jacks (that I'll be selling soon). If I didn't, I would've simply done one end of the car at a time. The car is more than stiff enough to where you can jack the front/back high enough to get a jack stand under the adjacent jack point on the same side.

Make sure to lube those bushings (ideally a packet per bushing even though they provide just two).

I used 1 for all 4... we'll see how that goes.

 

[Perscitus]

Should be ok for a good while since everything is behind the splash shields... unlike on most autos where the sways and bushings are exposed to the elements.

If they start to squeak, especially in or after heavy rains, this winter, etc take them off and re-lube with this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01606TCAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.AJcFbP50HWY8
or this stuff:
Energy Suspension Formula 5 Bushing Prelube

 

[HP Autosport]

PM us if anyone are looking for a set of Eibach Sway Bars.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

@Perscitus And that’s why @UnpluggedP has the flanges despite you keep saying it’s not needed. It’s a 4000 lb car and the bar needs to stay center. Lateral locks are an afterthought and I’m sure they’ll eat into the bar and eventually strip the paint off no matter how hard you bolt them down. And of course you won’t get any after purchase support from a company that just rubber stamps a product for profit.

 

[Bigtuna00]

How did you do the install? Ramps? Jack? Rear is obviously much easier access as I understand?

I used some Race Ramps. I mainly mention this because on some cars you can't remove/install the sway bars when under load. No such issues on the Model 3.

 

[NJturtlePower]

@Perscitus And that’s why @UnpluggedP has the flanges despite you keep saying it’s not needed. It’s a 4000 lb car and the bar needs to stay center. Lateral locks are an afterthought and I’m sure they’ll eat into the bar and eventually strip the paint off no matter how hard you bolt them down. And of course you won’t get any after purchase support from a company that just rubber stamps a product for profit.

So you think Tesla missed that too and ONLY UP figured things out?

Anyone mark the OEM bars to see if or how much they move?

 

[TwoK4drSi]

So you think Tesla missed that too and ONLY UP figured things out?

Anyone mark the OEM bars to see if or how much they move?

Have you even replaced your bars? I still have my oem ones. They actually don’t move at all. It’s literally glued. Why do you think the bushings even have ridges in the center of the bracket? It’s supposed to stay inside it. Eibach’s are flat bushings. The UP bars are better engineered by far.

 

[blaferty]

Looks like the ridges on the oe bushings that mate to the center of the brackets are there for a reason.

I installed bars using Race Ramps. Plenty of ground clearance & as mentioned, the end links don't move out of position
when the bars are removed.
I received new hardware from Tesla parts dept so I will replace nuts that I reused instead of waiting
for new. Also found my deep 15mm socket so I can properly torque nuts on front brackets.
Used both packets of lube for front & rear bushings.

Also want to see if the bars have shifted from side to side...