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EV charger installation cost Sydney Metro
- Thread starter Elec_grunt
- Start date
Zoltrix77
Member
I still stand by my race to the bottom. They run a business and the costs are endless, Unless you have a definate number of jobs work lined up to fill in the rest of your day and nothing un-expected happens on the job, and travel to the next job is 10 minutes or less, thats not a good way to make money. Anoterh 15 minutes to test and fill in the safety certificate, issue an invoice.
RCD Breaker of quality is about $35ex, 6mm2 2C+E cable is running at $4ex a meter nowaways, conduit, saddles, wear and tear on tools, fuel, vans, insurances, accountant fees, work cover etc etc.
Wouldn’t be too concerned about that. Just make sure you use a qualified electrician. All they have to do is connect it like any other appliance.
If you're ringing electricians, just ask for a quote for a new 40A connection (depending on if you're single or 3 phase that may change). The HPWC is very quick to install, just wires in from switchboard, screw onto wall, check toggle switches and remember to connect the front LED connector.
Does anyone know how to translate reading from main circuit board to a complete noob about electricity?
I've got In=63A in my main circuit board that says Normal Supply Main Switch. and it's single phase from what I can see.
Would I be able to tell if it can support single phase 16A or 32A from just this one?
I've got a sparky from work coming in to take a look, just thought it's best if I know this stuff before his visit.
I've got In=63A in my main circuit board that says Normal Supply Main Switch. and it's single phase from what I can see.
Would I be able to tell if it can support single phase 16A or 32A from just this one?
I've got a sparky from work coming in to take a look, just thought it's best if I know this stuff before his visit.
You'd be able to supply a 32A circuit, but what you can't tell without a "maximum demand calculation" is whether you'd be prone to "nuisance tripping", where the main breaker trips while charging and other big loads are active simultaneously.
Personally I would be willing to accept the risk of nuisance tripping and just ensure I only charged at full 32A when the other loads aren't running - you can always throttle the charging rate down in the car if necessary.
Thank you, appreciate it.
If it's not too pricey, this is the option I'm going for as well.
I guess the problem is the main circuit board distance to the garage, roughly around 18 - 20m, might need to trench and quite possibly run into thousands of $$$. Alternatively will just ask the sparky to install 15A outlet, should be enough to cover our weekly trips.
32A will effectively use half the load.
So you wouldn't want to charge on a summer night with the a/c on while baking for example.
But if you use scheduling should be fine.
Distance and trenching does sound expensive.. so maybe also consider whether you can live with an existing 10A circuit, or even upgrade a garage point to 15A if it's already on a separate circuit.
If you have a resistive hot water heater, that's usually the biggest individual load by a considerable margin.
I would have thought the electric stove (Or hot plates/oven) if you have one would be
Zoltrix77
Member
Its worth noting that you can run a 63A C Curve Circuit breaker above 63A for quite a while without causing tripping. It's magnetic (basically instant) tripping will only happen at 5-10x rated current. The thermal tipping component of the CB will decrease in trip time the higher the current on a logarithmic scale. I cannot find somthing that will allow me to input a multiple of rated current and the expected trip time, but you can find many graphs for it. It say you would be able to run a 63A CB at 70A-75 amps for a couple of hours without it tripping.
Tripping Curves
Tripping Curves
It would probably have a 70 amp supply fuse, so you would have to be careful how far you pushed it
Zoltrix77
Member
The supply fuse will be 80A or even 100A, and a similar curve will exist for the triping "blowing" of the fuse, so the CB Main switch will go first.
The current rating of the supply fuse will depend on the size of the mains
16 mm2 mains which is common in older houses are rated for 70 amps, which is why they have a 63 amp main switch, which was just a switch and not a CB
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Zoltrix77
Member
Sure the supply fuse is rated for the size of the consumer mains. 16mm2 mains is still what is used modern house close to the supply, actual current carring capacity depends on how the cable is installed. But 2 single core 16mm2 cables underground are rated for 115A . The old main switch was usually rated at 80 or 100A, its simply the maximum current that can be disconnected under load without risk of welding the contacts together. Modern installations use a 63A circuit breaker main switch in most domestic application purely has a maximum demand limiting device that will trip before the main service fuse, which as I said, is normally 80A or 100A. Old house from the 50's and 60's usually only had 6mm mains in suburbia.
Via the Tesla App it shows usageHey guys, Is there a “smart meter” I could use to monitor how much I’m spending to charge my Tesla at home? This is for novated lease purpose so I could claim my charging cost pre tax. Thank you in advance
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