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Excessively high consumption

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I think you're also experiencing a little bit of an unfortunate side effect of systems that can be very highly efficient. If something is so incredibly near perfect in the good ideal type of conditions, an added loss drags it down a lot, as it's a significant percentage compared to the small losses already there. But with gasoline engines being so horrifically bad, they are constantly dumping two thirds of the energy of the gasoline out the radiator and tailpipe and are desperately trying to dump heat to not melt themselves down. That same added loss amount would barely be noticeable and not change the efficiency percent much lumped in with the other huge losses the system already has. So some heavy air conditioning can make a noticeable change on very detailed EV numbers, where people may not have paid much attention to a couple mpg difference on their gas car.
 
Are there a lot of hills where you are? I live on a hill as well, and it really throws my numbers off... If I reset my energy usage when I'm already at the base of our hill and I stay in the valley, I can average 265 whm for the course of the day... If I reset at the top, then drive down, I can average closer to 200 sometimes < 200 whm....If I end at the top, then depending how much driving I do, I can average anywhere from the low 300's all the way up to the 600's.
Actually it's pretty flat around here. Nothing like the hills of San Francisco, where I used to live. And it's pretty rural, so we don't even have that many stop signs of signal lights.
 
I think you're also experiencing a little bit of an unfortunate side effect of systems that can be very highly efficient. If something is so incredibly near perfect in the good ideal type of conditions, an added loss drags it down a lot, as it's a significant percentage compared to the small losses already there. But with gasoline engines being so horrifically bad, they are constantly dumping two thirds of the energy of the gasoline out the radiator and tailpipe and are desperately trying to dump heat to not melt themselves down. That same added loss amount would barely be noticeable and not change the efficiency percent much lumped in with the other huge losses the system already has. So some heavy air conditioning can make a noticeable change on very detailed EV numbers, where people may not have paid much attention to a couple mpg difference on their gas car.
That makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately for us, while we're usually up in Vancouver, B.C. during the summers (where the temps are much more moderate), we have about two months of very high temps after we return. It might actually be better to just drive the ICE suv during those two months, and use the Tesla after the temps drop back down.
 
Even in the hottest temps your EV is still at least 2-3 times as efficient as an ICE car. And both consume same energy to run the A/C.
Well based on my running cost calculations, and the fact that I can't be on the TOU plan under PG&E because of how hot it is here between 3-9pm, so far the Tesla shows only about a 9% savings on a per mile basis. If I charge at home under my current NEM1 plan, the savings would jump up to 22%.
 
That makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately for us, while we're usually up in Vancouver, B.C. during the summers (where the temps are much more moderate), we have about two months of very high temps after we return. It might actually be better to just drive the ICE suv during those two months, and use the Tesla after the temps drop back down.
You're over thinking things. I've driven our Y even in 117 degree heat. It's still way more efficient than any of my ICE vehicles.
 
In fact last summer, it was > 105 degrees the entire time while I was in California, including near 110 while I was in Davis and Sac. It was still way cheaper for me to drive the Y than our MDX.
The Tesla cost $70 to charge for the 362 miles driven. That comes out to $0.19 per mi driven

My Subaru gets 22 mpg. Over 362 miles it would use 16.45 gals of regular gas. At $4.80/gal of gas, that comes out to $80 for the gas it would need to cover the same 362 miles. That comes out to $0.22 per mile driven.

Not much of a difference really. I'm hoping when it cools off the efficiency will increase.
 
It's way too early to be looking at those values. Come back in several months. On the other hand, over about 14,000 miles, I think my average is 310Wh/mi. It's hot in the summer where I live so the AC gets used a lot.
Yes, I'm sure the statistic will be more reliable as more miles accrue. I'm just taking a snapshot during the first month of ownership. Interestingly, I'm at 316 Wh/mi over 392 miles based on the Tesla screen. That's not too far off from your 310 Wh/mi.
 
The Tesla cost $70 to charge for the 362 miles driven.
No it doesn't. I just drove from Seattle to San Jose, and I only paid $92 for supercharging. I did the same drive last summer, except I used EA, and paid $54. And a significant portion of the trip was while it was over 100 degrees.

You planning on exclusively supercharging during peak rates for 58 cents per kwH? If so, a CCS adapter would be a good idea
 
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No it doesn't. I just drove from Seattle to San Jose, and I only paid $92 for supercharging. I did the same drive last summer, except I used EA, and paid $54. And a significant portion of the trip was while it was over 100 degrees.

You planning on exclusively supercharging during peak rates for 58 cents per kwH? If so, a CCS adapter would be a good idea
It cost me $70 for 151 kWh. That works out to about $0.46 kWh. I just received the CCS adaptor that I ordered. The EVgo charger seems to be cheaper, with a $4.95 membership fee and a $.20 kWh charge.
 
10% for 1.5 hours seems a bit high. I use Camp Mode on mine all the time... Even in 100+ degree heat, I only use about 2-3% per hour... Granted I have a LR, so maybe that's equivalent?

I agree, it seemed too high to me as well. But lots of mysteries with Teslas, everything is a secret. No detailed info available. My car seems to have a significant sleep drain as well, where it'll lose about 1% charge per day. Tesla support is useless and said nothing is wrong. I doubt they even looked. My best guess is I'm seeing a bug of some form where it keeps preconditioning my battery, because regen is always at max whenever I drive- and that's different than last year.

Your battery is right about 2x the size of mine, so for comparable numbers your AC is roughly 2x better than mine. Heat pump?
 
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The Tesla cost $70 to charge for the 362 miles driven.
Well, hang on a sec. This was from your initial statement about the total amount of energy it consumed, and we hadn't really covered how to reduce that yet. There are three main settings that are ON by default when the cars come that a lot of people don't know about that contribute to this really high energy draw while the car is parked. So if you want to reduce this idle drain, you could turn most of these off:

Sentry mode:
This feature didn't originally exist with the cars, but owners started begging Tesla to use the surround cameras for driving in a way to record for security when the car was parked. Tesla did that, but the cars weren't originally designed to be a security system, so there's no low power form of this. If you're using it, it's having to keep the power hungry main computer on and the car on, and it can't go into low power sleep mode ever. So the draw is kind of high with this.

Summon Standby:
Summon is the dog and pony show of using the phone app to call your car to come to you. And this Summon Standby is keeping the car mostly awake so it can respond to that quickly. Most people don't use it much, so it's kind of an energy waste.

Cabin Overheat Protection:
This is the one to keep the cabin from going over 105 degrees. If you don't care about that one, you can turn this off too. Or, it does have two modes. One will use the air conditioner as needed to strictly enforce the temperature limit. But the other is fan-only, so it will try but use far less energy.

And yes, I think Tesla could do better communication with letting people know about these settings and why the defaults have such high drain.
 
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I agree, it seemed too high to me as well. But lots of mysteries with Teslas, everything is a secret. No detailed info available. My car seems to have a significant sleep drain as well, where it'll lose about 1% charge per day. Tesla support is useless and said nothing is wrong. I doubt they even looked. My best guess is I'm seeing a bug of some form where it keeps preconditioning my battery, because regen is always at max whenever I drive- and that's different than last year.

Your battery is right about 2x the size of mine, so for comparable numbers your AC is roughly 2x better than mine. Heat pump?
Yeah, heat pump. I just used camp earlier today at my kids swim. I had AC set to 67 degrees, and was in camp mode for 2 hours and 15 minutes while it was 90 outside. I only lost 3% soc during that time. (I also put up my sun shade, and my windows have 25% ceramic tint)
 
Well, hang on a sec. This was from your initial statement about the total amount of energy it consumed, and we hadn't really covered how to reduce that yet. There are three main settings that are ON by default when the cars come that a lot of people don't know about that contribute to this really high energy draw while the car is parked. So if you want to reduce this idle drain, you could turn most of these off:

Sentry mode:
This feature didn't originally exist with the cars, but owners started begging Tesla to use the surround cameras for driving in a way to record for security when the car was parked. Tesla did that, but the cars weren't originally designed to be a security system, so there's no low power form of this. If you're using it, it's having to keep the power hungry main computer on and the car on, and it can't go into low power sleep mode ever. So the draw is kind of high with this.

Summon Standby:
Summon is the dog and pony show of using the phone app to call your car to come to you. And this Summon Standby is keeping the car mostly awake so it can respond to that quickly. Most people don't use it much, so it's kind of an energy waste.

Cabin Overheat Protection:
This is the one to keep the cabin from going over 105 degrees. If you don't care about that one, you can turn this off too. Or, it does have two modes. One will use the air conditioner as needed to strictly enforce the temperature limit. But the other is fan-only, so it will try but use far less energy.

And yes, I think Tesla could do better communication with letting people know about these settings and why the defaults have such high drain.
Thank you. Indeed Tesla does not really explain these features very well.

Sentry mode is off on the car.

However, cabin overheat protection was on. And as it's been 113° and the car sits outside, the fan has been running like mad. I've now turned this off.

I don't have smart summon AFAIK because I do not have FSD. It's not an icon on my app either.
 
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