Extreme loss of power and loud noise from rear after hard acceleration.

[Himingbjorg]

Hello,

I have had my Model S for a few month now and never really drove it fast but last night I decided to try launch mode with insane+. Immediately I heard a loud thud and a bunch of error codes came up. The rear is making a horrible sound and there is almost no power so I assume something to do with the rear drive unit. I didn't get any don't drive messages but some error codes came up and certain functions were disabled. I drove home and at cruising speed it didn't sound as bad as when I was stopped or just starting to accelerate. I made a service appointment but it will be a week till I get in so I am looking to see if this sounds like something maybe not quite as expensive as needing to replace the entire drive unit.

 

[Himingbjorg]

Sorry that picture is bad and I don't see an edit option.

 

[Tronguy]

Ding Tesla on the app. Clearly, you’ve got a fault. It’s a new car, it’s under warranty.

 

[Himingbjorg]

Ding Tesla on the app. Clearly, you’ve got a fault. It’s a new car, it’s under warranty.

2014 (New to me lol) no warranty unfortunately.

 

[DerbyDave]

The THC errors are generally the front shutters for allowing air for cooling are not working or not providing feedback. You can look up the remainder.

Tesla Alerts Dictionary

Tesla Alerts Dictionary

tesla-alerts-dictionary.corehacked.com

 

[Ostrichsak]

Usually, when it's a laundry list of errors that are related to items powered by 12v like this, it's the 12v battery. If you bought it from a car dealership they often don't charge properly or it could just be due to time. If it's the latter, just change the 12v battery and call it a day. If it's the former, you'll still need to change the battery but it could also have come at the expense of increased battery degradation due to being left at a low state for an extended period of time while at auction, in-transit, on their lot... whatever the case may be.

With a Tesla, your best bet is to simply schedule a service call through the app. If it's a 12v battery replacement, they're actually quite reasonably priced and a mobile tech will come to your home or work address to perform the work as well included in the price. If it's more, they're properly diagnose it so you're not chasing ghosts for the next year. Armed with the actual info of what the issue is you can either have them fix it or fix it yourself to save a few bucks (in some cases) but at least you'll know.

 

[brainhouston]

Usually, when it's a laundry list of errors that are related to items powered by 12v like this, it's the 12v battery.

no, not usually lol
maybe sometimes, or very rare
bad 12v won't cause any noise

Only concerning code is DI w039, other codes don't really point to the source of issue/noise
Is there more codes in history?
This might be some mechanical failure in drive unit or axles...

 

[ucmndd]

Usually, when it's a laundry list of errors that are related to items powered by 12v like this, it's the 12v battery.

This might be relevant advice if you completely ignore the symptoms being described by OP…

 

[Usher]

I kind of wonder if maybe you broke a rear axle. It seems like something that should trigger a code, but maybe it wouldn't if the car uses the wheel speed sensors to determine motor speed. If the software isn't set up to detect it, you'd basically just end up front wheel drive and it would feel down on power like you described.

 

[brainhouston]

yeap, start with lifting the car n having a look under without undershield
put car in tow mode so u can spin the wheels n listen

 

[Himingbjorg]

I kind of wonder if maybe you broke a rear axle. It seems like something that should trigger a code, but maybe it wouldn't if the car uses the wheel speed sensors to determine motor speed. If the software isn't set up to detect it, you'd basically just end up front wheel drive and it would feel down on power like you described.

I have it at tesla now and in the app the estimate has wheel speed sensor on it and god I hope that's all it is lol. Even a broken rear axle would be better than the drive motor.

 

[Himingbjorg]

Rear half shaft and rear upper link suspension assembly. 2600, could have been better, but also much worse so ya haha.

 

[brainhouston]

ouch...
if u go with independent shop it'll be much less
if u diy it with used parts off ebay, probably only few hundred

 

[Usher]

Rear half shaft and rear upper link suspension assembly. 2600, could have been better, but also much worse so ya haha.

If you're ok with doing the work yourself and not using new OEM parts, you'd probably be around $200 in parts (used OEM axle from eBay and aftermarket suspension link). Of course for this to go smoothly you'll need the right tools and some experience doing suspension pieces and your own alignments. One thing about this job I've learned on the rally car is a used OEM axle is always better than an aftermarket one. I've only ever broken 2 axles on the rally car and both were aftermarket axles the rally after I put them on.