This is exactly our situation. 110 miles twice a week between city home and country home. Sometimes you just need to be able to round trip in a hurry (not overnight). The ability to charge at a rate of 60 miles per hour, while not often needed is very valuable when it is needed.
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FAQ: Home Tesla charging infrastructure Q&A
- Thread starter FlasherZ
- Start date
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I had a short work commute, so I am not getting the Tesla to do my commute with self driving, it's that weekly drive to the Sierras that I NEED a companion watching the road. The Model 3 will be perfect, except I have had to do run back for things in the past. If I had to do that in the Tesla I get most of the way back to the bay area before I hit a super charger. If we left the garage door open or forgot the house keys (I'm not telling the actual mistake that made me drive back) I could easily sit and finish a sandwich at the cabin while the car gets enough charge to guarantee the trip home. The only other charger up here is the Chicken Ranch Casino, not a place I really wanna hang out
-Randy
-Randy
Heh. There's a reason I re-keyed both houses to the same key... And I still stash a hidden backup key.
Quick question.
I want to install my HWPC on a 60amp breaker (6/2 NM romex).
Am I required to install a disconnect?
The NEC code says if above 60amps or above 150volts-to-ground, I need to.
I am below 60amps, and I believe the HWPC is 240v but only 120v to ground on each phase. Is this correct?
I want to install my HWPC on a 60amp breaker (6/2 NM romex).
Am I required to install a disconnect?
The NEC code says if above 60amps or above 150volts-to-ground, I need to.
I am below 60amps, and I believe the HWPC is 240v but only 120v to ground on each phase. Is this correct?
Yes, you are correct. You should not need a disconnect. However, an inspector may have another opinion. In that case, I would cite NEC section 625 and kindly point out that you have not exceeded the limits that require disconnecting means.
davewill
Active Member
I would note that having a way to disconnect the EVSE besides trekking to the panel to flip the breaker can be handy at times.
SpiceWare
Member
While I'm sure one already exists, I couldn't find one so I whipped up this simple outlet summary so I could work out which adapters I'll need when I visit my brother or sister. Timing worked out well for my sister's place, turns out my brother-in-law's having power run in the next week or two for a trailer they're setting up on their property - he's going to have a line run over to the parking area as well.
PDF version of the page:
PDF version of the page:
One of the things you might want to include on that PDF (nice list!) is the 80% current number as you will need to set the car to only draw 80% of say 30 amps (24) when using an external adapter as the UMC won’t set it automatically in that case.
If you’re using the Tesla adapter on the UMC then this is done automatically but if using a separate one on a 14-50 extension, you need to tell the car to limit itself to 80% of whatever the max is for that circuit.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
SpiceWare
Member
Yep, both are installing 240V outlets and we needed to figure out which outlet to put in based on the amps they could support and the available Tesla adapters. The images and data are both from that page, but Tesla's table doesn't show the images inline and are quite helpful to reference when talking to somebody far away (1200+ miles to my brother's, 200+ to my sister's).
I did let them know that I'll have the 14-50 and 14-30, so those would be preferable if their available amps were high enough. If not I'll order Tesla's 6-20 or 6-15 adapter.
While I plan to eventually get a 240 outlet in my garage, I work at home so will use a 5-15 for now. I've already ordered the 14-30 as I have an unused outlet in my laundry room (I own a gas dryer) that would be helpful if I need a faster recharge. Only minor issue there is I'll need a 15-20 foot extension cord as the laundry room's not adjacent to the garage.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
Yeah, you will need a VERY heavy extension-cord to carry 30 amps. You can get RV extension cords that might not turn into heating elements with the level of electric car draw. Check your utility and see what local or federal rebates there are for doing a professional car charging outlet, it's much safer.
-Randy
ps. I say that, but then I just finished wiring up my HPWC myself. Just got a breaker from OSH and 50 feet of 6/2 romex and a screwdriver to tighten the connections and I am done, $120
-Randy
ps. I say that, but then I just finished wiring up my HPWC myself. Just got a breaker from OSH and 50 feet of 6/2 romex and a screwdriver to tighten the connections and I am done, $120
As a general comment, for most flexibility for travel, I have a long 14-50 extension cord and then have all 14-50 adapters from here: EVSEadapters.com electrical adapters for Tesla drivers, welders, RVs
That allows you to only need one extension cord and of a good size (wire gauge), but you do then need to adjust the max amps the car requests if not the 40 or 32 of the UMC’s max.
So, you need to measure your own pros and cons.
SpiceWare
Member
Nice, that TT-30 charging adapter for the Gen 2 might be handy. We'll be in Wisconsin Dells in June, my dad's working on finding out the options we'll have for charging my 3 at the place we're staying. So far we know they have an RV section, but whoever he'd talked to didn't know specifics for the connections.
You have to speak RV Park lingo. Ask if they have 50A or 30A connections. 50A is the 240v NEMA 14-50 and the 30A is the 120v TT-30.
I took a look at that and it does sound like if the standards are the 14-50 and the TT-30, having the TT-30 and perhaps a 14-50 extension cord in case should cover any RV park.
snort
Member
I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FZQ1P3
They come in various lengths. They can comfortably carry 240V/24A indefinitely and is less than half the weight and bulk as a 14-50 extension, and if you use it with a -30 connector, you don't need to dial down the voltage in the car.
it has NEMA 6-30 connectors. I've standardized on these because they're smaller and cheaper than the only commercial cord mount 10-30R I managed to find...so I only need one of these monsters: McMaster-Carr
I have 5 -30 adapters plus this extension: a NEMA 10-30 extension, a TT-30, a NEMA 6-30 (non locking), a NEMA L14-30 (the so-called "generator plug") and a NEMA 14-50 from which I removed the Neutral pin that I use both as 14-30 and to downconvert 50 amp connectors (my friend has a 6-50 on a 30 amp breaker that the previous owner--a welder--had put in). I use the Tesla 10-30 adapter to the Gen1 mobile adapter.
-Snortybartfast
Sounds like a plan if you want to limit yourself to 30/24 amps. The 14-50 cord I got from Evseadapters also has the neutral removed so it can do all that family without carrying more adapters. I have one bag that carries everything including the new Chademo I just picked up so it’s easy to just add the bag to the car for long trips. (The UMC is always in the car.)
im.thatoneguy
Member
I am getting an hpwc installed. What is the cheapest way to get a 14-50 installed as well? Does the daisy chaining of hpwcs only work with other hpwcs or is there a way to add a 14-50 outlet to the mix? I intend to have both installed within a couple feet of the main box... would I still need aa subpanel? Or is that only for distant installations?
Depends on the local codes.
Assuming no code issues, you don't need a subpanel, just two individual runs and two circuit breakers. Generally you need a subpanel when:
1. Local code says so.
2. You have multiple outlets far from the main panel (far means the cost of running separate wires is more than the cost of the subpanel and wiring to it.)
3. There is no space for additional breakers in the main panel. (Although in this case it might be better to increase the size of the main panel.)
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