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Final Decision: Is Going from AWD to P Worth $9,946-$12,946?

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I have a D3 that is 12K$ cheaper now, ordered in June 2018.


People say this.

But then forget about the $7500 tax credit you don't get anymore, the $300 homelink you don't get anymore, the $50 in charging adapters you don't get anymore, the fact you need to drop 6k on FSD to get the same features now that 5k EAP got you then, the fact you got lifetime data for free (not that Tesla has figured out how to bill newer customers for this yet)... plus all the fuel and time savings not buying gas for over a year.
 
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Hi, so you got a Model 3 AWD LR with 19" wheels last August 17, 2019,
and less than one month later you want to upgrade a Model 3 Performance with 20" wheels?

You mentioned $10k to $12k for the upgrade, but do you include sales taxes, which are 4.3% in Virginia I believe?
- Would you paid the sales tax only on the price increase or do you paid the sales taxes on the full new car price?
- Similarly, you already paid the 2019 DOT registration for the AWD,
but you would also have to paid the 2019 DOT registration for the Performance?
- Did you check you insurance cost for going from AWD to Performance?

I have personally a Model 3 AWD LR with 19", I would prefer to keep it until the Model Y will be available.
Unless I live in Montana, or in Germany in Europe, where there is no speed limit on Highways,
here in California the speed limit is 65 miles per hour with some areas up to 75 miles I believe.

I like to go to the Sierra and to drive on curving roads, this is why I got the Dual Motor.
However I don't think there would be that much difference with the Performance.
Also I would be more worry about getting the 20" wheels damaged with potholes.

Honestly, I don't feel the need for any extra performance, however having a hatchback and possibly a tow hitch
are two features that really mater to my and I can't wait for getting a Model Y.

Conclusion:
1) Could you please review the VA sales taxes, DOT registration, and Insurance as part of the upgrade?
2) Would additional performance and 20" wheels really worthwhile?
3) Do you plan to get a Model Y?
 
Don't forget tax. I'd keep the AWD, However if you didn't have the AWD already, I'd say go for it!

If I was in your shoes, I'd probably wait until the first major revisions came out.

I think tesla will eventually add proper blind spot detection, and maybe even a HUD someday, 360 camera, power lift gate, or improved suspension, a different front motor, or improved battery. By then you will have gotten more use out of your car and it will make more sense.
 
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Everyone's situation is different and there are many other factors in your life which can affect what people will tell you to do. I don't think it's worth going down that rabbit hole because ultimately you know your situation better and will have to think long and hard about the decision.

With that said, my advice coming from someone who has thought about doing the same thing is that it's just not worth it unless you really have plenty of money sitting around.

Save your dough and make what you have better. The AWD is already amazing on it's own and with your savings you can actually make it a little quicker for much less by shaving some weight off. Get lightweight forged wheels and lightweight rear rotors. Get lightweight racing seats in the front to drop even more significant weight if you wanna go wild with it. Make your car your own as well with tint or other accessories. And then also maybe, just maybe, Tesla might offer some kind of performance upgrade in the future to AWD owners and you'll have the money for it and then some left over (assuming it's a semi-reasonable 5k or less).

Just my 2 cents.
 
I had an uncomfortable giggle at that amount considering it’s at least triple or quadruple that amount for a relatively modest home where we live. Cleveland has its benefits.

Cleveland does have cheap housing, but $13,000 is still a couple of months payment on a million dollar mortgage, that is still a nice chunk of change. Say you are 10 years in on that, it is about 5 months of principal payments.
 
You mentioned $10k to $12k for the upgrade, but do you include sales taxes, which are 4.3% in Virginia I believe?
- Would you paid the sales tax only on the price increase or do you paid the sales taxes on the full new car price?
- Similarly, you already paid the 2019 DOT registration for the AWD,
but you would also have to paid the 2019 DOT registration for the Performance?

Don't forget tax. I'd keep the AWD, However if you didn't have the AWD already, I'd say go for it!

If I was in your shoes, I'd probably wait until the first major revisions came out.

Correct, the $9,946 0 $12,946 figures I used are out the door costs with all taxes, registrations, etc included. The variation of $3K is dependent on whether the MD Excise funding will be replenished next year. If they extend the $3K another year than the out the door costs to upgrade to the Performance after trading my car is $9,946, this is after you include all the taxes and stuff. In other words I end up paying about $3.2K more than I would've needed to if I just did the upgrade from the start.

I'm surprised at all the comments on not to do it. Even as Tesla lovers, I appreciate the level headed comments.
A part of me does want to wait for the next revision but the issue is, it'll depreciate further. Once the car has more miles, more wear, that upgrade to the next new P might be 10-20K. Its a bit circle and I'm trying to figure out how to navigate this.
To be fair, with so many "don't do it" from you guys, I'm now leaning slightly more towards not doing it but occasionally there is always one post whether here, reddit, or tesla forums that has a person say "I traded in my LR AWD to go P and while the hit was large, it was TOTALLY WORTH IT!!!!" but of course they might be justifying their purchase. idk.
 
Correct, the $9,946 0 $12,946 figures I used are out the door costs with all taxes, registrations, etc included. The variation of $3K is dependent on whether the MD Excise funding will be replenished next year. If they extend the $3K another year than the out the door costs to upgrade to the Performance after trading my car is $9,946, this is after you include all the taxes and stuff. In other words I end up paying about $3.2K more than I would've needed to if I just did the upgrade from the start.

I'm surprised at all the comments on not to do it. Even as Tesla lovers, I appreciate the level headed comments.
A part of me does want to wait for the next revision but the issue is, it'll depreciate further. Once the car has more miles, more wear, that upgrade to the next new P might be 10-20K. Its a bit circle and I'm trying to figure out how to navigate this.
To be fair, with so many "don't do it" from you guys, I'm now leaning slightly more towards not doing it but occasionally there is always one post whether here, reddit, or tesla forums that has a person say "I traded in my LR AWD to go P and while the hit was large, it was TOTALLY WORTH IT!!!!" but of course they might be justifying their purchase. idk.
Well, Honestly I tend to keep whatever I buy until I pay it off. Only then do I consider getting something new. I really a new RzR 1000 with a turbo and the new suspension, but I'd eat about $15k in mods if I sold mine (it else spend a ton of time removing mods). And we'll, the one I have is perfectly fine. There is alwayse someone faster than you, so just you just need to be faster than your friends lol.

But, your deal isn't too bad, if it's going to eat at you there whole time then just trade it in. But don't be surprised when they change something else you want next year. It's a viscous cycle. Nothing is the best for long. I'm pretty happy with my p3d-, but I do see p3ds in the lot all the time and I know those people paid less than I did. I want those brakes even though the ones on my car work perfectly fine :).

Only you can decide if it's worth it, but if it was me I'd probably keep it until I pay it off, then next time get whatever the best thing out is.
 
Well, Honestly I tend to keep whatever I buy until I pay it off. Only then do I consider getting something new. I really a new RzR 1000 with a turbo and the new suspension, but I'd eat about $15k in mods if I sold mine (it else spend a ton of time removing mods). And we'll, the one I have is perfectly fine. There is alwayse someone faster than you, so just you just need to be faster than your friends lol.

But, your deal isn't too bad, if it's going to eat at you there whole time then just trade it in. But don't be surprised when they change something else you want next year. It's a viscous cycle. Nothing is the best for long. I'm pretty happy with my p3d-, but I do see p3ds in the lot all the time and I know those people paid less than I did. I want those brakes even though the ones on my car work perfectly fine :).

Only you can decide if it's worth it, but if it was me I'd probably keep it until I pay it off, then next time get whatever the best thing out is.

I know.. at the end of the day, its me alone that has to make the decision.
In preparation for whatever decision occurs, I ended up paying off the car yesterday.
If I sell it, at least I don't have to deal with clearing the title, speaking with the lender, all that headache. If I keep it, at least I can save on monthly payments going forward. Still, part of me think its stupid that its 10K+ to spend on a second faster car after JUST buying this car but a part of me also doesn't want to regret every time I step in the car.
Decisions.
I also didn't take into consideration that Tesla doesn't allow all season tires on the 20".
 
As a P3D+ owner ... sometimes I wonder if I should have bought the AWD and a Rolex. ...

I paid $15 for my Casio watch. Keeps time as well as or better than the Rolex (depending on whether the Rolex has mechanical movement, which is less accurate) and if I lose it, it's just $15. :)

But seriously, an upscale car is a toy. It's fun, but not a necessity. My advice has always been: If you have to borrow money to buy a car, get an econobox and drive it until it falls apart. If you have zero debt and enough savings for any likely emergency and can pay cash for a car, then it's just a question of whether the car will give you more enjoyment than anything else you could have gotten for the money. And if you have zero debt (or the debt you do have costs you less than your investments yield) and you have more money than you know what to do with, then buy whatever car you like the best.

One of Dickens's characters (Mr. Micawber, in David Copperfield, maybe? not sure) was fond of saying that the recipe for happiness is to spend one pound less than your income, and the recipe for misery is to spend one pound more than your income. No car is worth going into debt for. (Unless you actually have the money in high-yield investments and the interest on the loan is less than the yield on your investments, but very few people are in that situation.)

Eating the depreciation on a one-month-old car to upgrade to one that's a little bit quicker off the line, is fine if you are loaded and don't know what else to do with your money. But, JMO, is a bad idea if you are borrowing money to do it.

Remember, also, that better cars come out all the time. Tesla is constantly making improvements. In six months or a year there will be something even better than the car you're looking at upgrading to. The sensible thing is to pick a time and a car, buy it (but only if you can afford it without going into debt) and then stick with it for a few years at least.