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I had an uncomfortable giggle at that amount considering it’s at least triple or quadruple that amount for a relatively modest home where we live. Cleveland has its benefits.an extra 12 or 13k is a nice chunk on a mortgage, etc.
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I had an uncomfortable giggle at that amount considering it’s at least triple or quadruple that amount for a relatively modest home where we live. Cleveland has its benefits.an extra 12 or 13k is a nice chunk on a mortgage, etc.
I have a D3 that is 12K$ cheaper now, ordered in June 2018.
I had an uncomfortable giggle at that amount considering it’s at least triple or quadruple that amount for a relatively modest home where we live. Cleveland has its benefits.
You mentioned $10k to $12k for the upgrade, but do you include sales taxes, which are 4.3% in Virginia I believe?
- Would you paid the sales tax only on the price increase or do you paid the sales taxes on the full new car price?
- Similarly, you already paid the 2019 DOT registration for the AWD,
but you would also have to paid the 2019 DOT registration for the Performance?
Don't forget tax. I'd keep the AWD, However if you didn't have the AWD already, I'd say go for it!
If I was in your shoes, I'd probably wait until the first major revisions came out.
Well, Honestly I tend to keep whatever I buy until I pay it off. Only then do I consider getting something new. I really a new RzR 1000 with a turbo and the new suspension, but I'd eat about $15k in mods if I sold mine (it else spend a ton of time removing mods). And we'll, the one I have is perfectly fine. There is alwayse someone faster than you, so just you just need to be faster than your friends lol.Correct, the $9,946 0 $12,946 figures I used are out the door costs with all taxes, registrations, etc included. The variation of $3K is dependent on whether the MD Excise funding will be replenished next year. If they extend the $3K another year than the out the door costs to upgrade to the Performance after trading my car is $9,946, this is after you include all the taxes and stuff. In other words I end up paying about $3.2K more than I would've needed to if I just did the upgrade from the start.
I'm surprised at all the comments on not to do it. Even as Tesla lovers, I appreciate the level headed comments.
A part of me does want to wait for the next revision but the issue is, it'll depreciate further. Once the car has more miles, more wear, that upgrade to the next new P might be 10-20K. Its a bit circle and I'm trying to figure out how to navigate this.
To be fair, with so many "don't do it" from you guys, I'm now leaning slightly more towards not doing it but occasionally there is always one post whether here, reddit, or tesla forums that has a person say "I traded in my LR AWD to go P and while the hit was large, it was TOTALLY WORTH IT!!!!" but of course they might be justifying their purchase. idk.
Well, Honestly I tend to keep whatever I buy until I pay it off. Only then do I consider getting something new. I really a new RzR 1000 with a turbo and the new suspension, but I'd eat about $15k in mods if I sold mine (it else spend a ton of time removing mods). And we'll, the one I have is perfectly fine. There is alwayse someone faster than you, so just you just need to be faster than your friends lol.
But, your deal isn't too bad, if it's going to eat at you there whole time then just trade it in. But don't be surprised when they change something else you want next year. It's a viscous cycle. Nothing is the best for long. I'm pretty happy with my p3d-, but I do see p3ds in the lot all the time and I know those people paid less than I did. I want those brakes even though the ones on my car work perfectly fine .
Only you can decide if it's worth it, but if it was me I'd probably keep it until I pay it off, then next time get whatever the best thing out is.
As a P3D+ owner ... sometimes I wonder if I should have bought the AWD and a Rolex. ...