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First time poster - Shopping a used 3.

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Coincidentally, I just saw this on Reddit:
 

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Huh, that's an...interesting...guarantee given the delivery issues they've had

But yeah all the used model 3s I've seen have been priced so high they're not really worth buying compared to new while the full tax credit remains in play
 
a great option to do an "extended test drive" of the model 3 is to use Turo. We rented one for 24 hours over the weekend and it was a great way to try many different situations.

another point to consider - AWD and P3D are higher margin if you do decide to buy new, so higher probability of getting delivery before the end of the year. The website said Nov, and I took delivery in 3 weeks.
 
a great option to do an "extended test drive" of the model 3 is to use Turo. We rented one for 24 hours over the weekend and it was a great way to try many different situations.

another point to consider - AWD and P3D are higher margin if you do decide to buy new, so higher probability of getting delivery before the end of the year. The website said Nov, and I took delivery in 3 weeks.

All good to know.. Site now says 4-8 weeks depending on options.. Considering the new route now.. Have a test drive scheduled at 11am. Here's hoping!
 
All good to know.. Site now says 4-8 weeks depending on options.. Considering the new route now.. Have a test drive scheduled at 11am. Here's hoping!

If you do decide to go new you have three days to place your order to guarantee delivery, and full tax credit, by the end of the year. If you opt for just rear wheel drive they are still saying four weeks (mine is scheduled for delivery less than three weeks after placing the order).

Tesla sets deadline on new orders to get delivery and full tax credit by end of the year
 
Good evening all. First time post, new to the forums.. Forgive me if out of place where I am putting this...

With that said, I am educated on the basics of the 3, but now seriously looking at pulling the trigger on a used model. (I am located in Orlando, FL, and a fair amount of used models now on the market.)

- Any general input the community might have to assist me in the decision of which unit, etc, as I continue to narrow down the direction I am going?

I probably wouldn't recommend buying a used Model 3 at this time. If you do, you need to make sure that the price is well below $7500 off of the list price, to compensate for the tax credit. From what I've seen, there seems to have been a number of cars offered for $3k, $4k, $5k off of list, which seems good, but in reality, made the seller richer. Those number should be $10k, $11k, $12k below list.

It probably is a lot more feasible (assuming that you owe at lease $7500 in fed taxes) to get a base LR Model 3. You should be able to get one in weeks, if not days and you have no issues with being second owner. In addition, I believe that interest rates will be cheaper on new cars.

Remember, Tesla really only started making the Model 3 in mass quantities in about March, so nothing is really old yet. I believe there are only two reasons why you would find a used one today, someone who decided to go with a M3 PD and those who decided they couldn't afford the payments.

Remember, that you get to subtract $7500 off of the $49,000 base price.
Also, I just saw on the Tesla site
Federal Tax Credit
All orders placed by October 15, 2018 will be delivered by the end of the year and eligible for the full $7,500 Federal Tax Credit.
 
All good to know.. Site now says 4-8 weeks depending on options.. Considering the new route now.. Have a test drive scheduled at 11am. Here's hoping!

Information I haven't yet seen posted to the thread is that there have been revisions of multiple parts in the Model 3 just over the past 6 months or so. Some of those parts changes we know about and some we probably don't.

We also know approximately when some of the changes were introduced to production and others it's a bit fuzzier.
  • Design change to cover in rear trunk entry
  • Design change to front and rear seats
  • Design change to address wind noise at wing mirrors
  • Part substitution on windshield to reduce noise at highway speeds
  • Likely part revision to address "phantom touches" on touchscreen
  • Possible (not proven) design change or adjustment to prevent rear bumper from detaching when driving through standing water
Additionally there have been improvements in the body panel fitment on the car, although since you are considering buying used you could obviously inspect. Generally speaking (with the exception of paint quality in this case) later production cars are always preferable to early production cars because as the manufacturer gets feedback from failures in the field they make adjustments to components and assembly methods on newer production.

Paint quality on newer cars is worse than ones they were building 6-9 months ago, probably due to the high volume they are trying to run through their over-subscribed paint shop.

If you qualify for the full tax credit and can wait until the end of the year if you want AWD I don't see a lot of reason to buy a used one unless you are the kind of person that wants to take possession immediately to scratch an itch. Tesla should be able to match you with a RWD car very quickly (probably less than a few weeks) and if I was in south FL and wasn't interested in winning stoplight drag races that is what I would be purchasing.

Free supercharging isn't worth worrying about unless you do a ton of long distance trips or live in an apartment or something where you can't charge at home. Installation of an electric dryer outlet in your garage shouldn't be too expensive, don't tell the electrician you are installing the outlet for a Tesla to keep the quoted cost down. Free lifetime LTE is nice, but honestly it's only $100 per year after 1st year, so again, this is "change found in the couch" money.
 
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Agree most are priced high, Ive had my eye out and sent a few emails.

BTW, anyone know if the bench seat can be replaced on the older models. If so what would the approx cost be on a swap out?

I have one I’m looking at I’ve offered what I feel like is fair but that’s the only thing bugging me, otherwise I’d just go new.
 
Hey all. So went to my dealer and drove a Performance model.. Was stunning. Will admit.. Had me thinking.

While there, also drove an X. 75D. Honestly, really felt insanely at home in the X. Yes, two different worlds there, but gave me a lot more to think about.
 
I just sold a '12 Evora S. Sadly, back here in Orlando, there is just no way to appreciate a canyon carver. Living the Chattanooga area, was a joy... Deals Gap (Tail of the Dragon,) and such only miles away... But down here.. It's useless. I also owned an Exige S back in the day.

LOL, yeah, anyone that's been to Orlando can understand why Shawn sold his Lotuses. The terrain resembles Kansas in how exciting it is to drive around. Not even much point in keeping it around to show off.

Are any of these cars Dual Motor or Performance? Prices seem a bit high for a regular RWD LR. If it's only a couple thousand off MSRP, I'd probably just buy new to save on the risk and to get the tax credit.
 
So the current dilemma.. (By the way, getting an extended test drive Sunday night of a performance model...)

Have now ruled out used or CPO and thanks to all that had input on that.

Have narrowed down to a dual motor, NON performance, (since cannot see paying $14,000 for performance and 20" wheels - $9,000+$5,000) only to gain a second to 60? Community thoughts?

I feel odd saying this considering what have normally spent on cars in the past, but... $14,000......
 
Dual non-performance is a pretty nice sweet spot. The current theory is that hardware is identical, as is performance above ~20mph.

For comparison’s sake, my dual motor feels a little quicker than my old 135i. There is instant power available all the way up to maybe 70 mph.
 
So the current dilemma.. (By the way, getting an extended test drive Sunday night of a performance model...)

Have now ruled out used or CPO and thanks to all that had input on that.

Have narrowed down to a dual motor, NON performance, (since cannot see paying $14,000 for performance and 20" wheels - $9,000+$5,000) only to gain a second to 60? Community thoughts?

I feel odd saying this considering what have normally spent on cars in the past, but... $14,000......

Speed carries a premium price and 1 second is really fast when you are below 5 seconds already.

Also, you can get the performance for $9,000 and not $14,000. The extra 5000 is the rice kit.

The performance is actually a better deal (today and in relative terms) than it was in late June. It was a $11,000 to go from AWD -> P, not $9,000.

upload_2018-10-12_13-24-30.png
 
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So the current dilemma.. (By the way, getting an extended test drive Sunday night of a performance model...)

Have now ruled out used or CPO and thanks to all that had input on that.

Have narrowed down to a dual motor, NON performance, (since cannot see paying $14,000 for performance and 20" wheels - $9,000+$5,000) only to gain a second to 60? Community thoughts?

I feel odd saying this considering what have normally spent on cars in the past, but... $14,000......

Have you test driven the NON performance dual motor yet? You probably want to do that first and then decide if you can justify the $14k. I would hate to buy the NON Performance model only to regret and have to sell it at a loss to get the faster one. And by that time, probably no full $7500 rebate.
 
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Have you test driven the NON performance dual motor yet? You probably want to do that first and then decide if you can justify the $14k. I would hate to buy the NON Performance model only to regret and have to sell it at a loss to get the faster one. And by that time, probably no full $7500 rebate.

Sadly, my dealer had only the performance or the single motor... Didn't have the option.