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Fix-A- Flat Tire

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by Dean412, Oct 16, 2015.

  1. Dean412

    Dean412 Member

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    I recently had an ( unknown) object puncture the new Michelin Pilot SS rear tire on passenger side of Roadster.
    Received a alarm low tire pressure, pulled over to shoulder of road, object not present but found the puncture which did appear to be repairable.
    I tried to inflate the tire( which was later patched by Discount Tire, where purchased) with the aerosol tire sealer product supplied by Tesla with no luck.
    Tire remained flat, and I had a tow truck( AAA) load the Roadster up for a ride to Discount Tires.

    MY Question is, with all of the experience of other Roadster owners is there a better product or solution to a flat tire while stranded on the shoulder of the highway, that one can maintain in the trunk of the Roadster for such an occasion.
    Thanks,
    Dean
     
  2. AEdennis

    AEdennis Active Member

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    I wonder if the tire puncture kit that Tesla sells for the Model S is a fit for the Roadster?
     
  3. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    If you have a puncture and the object is no longer in the tire, you are probably going to have to call for service. The "fix a flat" will only seal small leaks, usually from nails or screws. Larger objects usually have enough mass to get thrown from the tire, leaving a hole that is too large for the sealer. The can is too small to inflate the tire if it still leaks, and the damage would need to be on the bottom for the sealer to reach it. It only works if you can get the tire inflated enough to immediately drive it to distribute the sealer.

    I keep a small 12V air compressor, a jack, and a plug kit for emergency use.
     
  4. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    Note that you can't go over the AMP capacity rating of the 12v outlet on the Roadster or you'll throw the fuse running the pump. You need to find a pump that has a very low amp draw, some motorcycle pumps are low amps. I don't know the amp of the 12v accessory, I believe possibly 12amps is the limit. I personally use a rechargeable compressor which I keep in the trunk of the Roadster. Also I have a puncture repair kit, pliers, and a very lightweight and small Porsche 911 aluminum scissor jack in case I need to remove the tire or at least jack it up so the bead of the tire can seal properly with the rim.
     
  5. TOBASH

    TOBASH Member

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    I keep a tire plug kit in the car along with a can of truck tire "TPMS" safe fix-a-flat.

    Large holes can be plugged temporarily this way to get me into a safe area.

    Then the tire can be properly patched or replaced.

    These kits are small and only cost 8 dollars.

    Best,

    T
     
  6. shokunin

    shokunin P85 & S40

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    I keep a safety seal tire-plug kit in each car for small punctures, along with some nitrile gloves, flashlight, small pliers, etc.

    http://www.safetyseal.com
     
  7. MileHighMotoring

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    The fuse is 15amps for the accessory power port. I doubt any pump designed for this use would exceed that. An Amazon review said that "Both ammeters tested the Slime unit to draw 6.2 amps when pumping at 42 psi"

    I just picked up the $40 Slime kit from Wally World, it's a pump that automatically adds Slime (TMPS safe) sealant and inflates at the same time. The cheaper $20 kit requires you to remove the valve stem, squeeze in the Slime, reinsert the valve, then inflate. I figured that if I'm on the side of the road I'm not in the mood for a 9 step process.
     
  8. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    I just pulled looked at the fuse and sure enough its 15AMP on the Roadster. I do recall others having an issue when running a 14 amp compressor, where I believe the 12 amps draw did work. Those with a Model S have also noted they blew their 14.5/15 amp fuse on the forum as well. My guess is there is a surge that the pump pulls which blows the fuse. Trying to find the discussion where all this info was rooted from, will post once I find it.

    I'm very picky with what I plug in that accessory port since the switch-pack regulates it, and we all know how delicate and costly the switch-pack can be once fried. Another reason why I chose a rechargeable pump just to play it safe. Only thing I plug into that outlet is my cell phone charger.
     
  9. TOBASH

    TOBASH Member

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    Please don't take this personally, because it is the company I am not impressed with. You have the right idea.

    That being said:

    WOW!!!! Are they kidding?!?! 45 clams for an 8 dollar kit?

    These things should always be used as a temporary fix anyway, so who cares about their supposed superiority.

    I have used the cheap kits for years with outstanding results, and when I get home I almost always have a proper patch placed. When I have not replaced there was never a leak, but on my sports cars I always replace and have never ever ever had an issue.

    The 8 dollar kits fit under the Roadster false trunk bottom neatly, where-as this safetyseal stuff has a bulky seemingly useless case.

    Your mileage may vary.

    Best,

    T
     
  10. Dean412

    Dean412 Member

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    Wiztecy,
    What brand/type of rechargeable pump are U using and is it up to the task each time in use ?
    I assume U recharge the battery on a timely basis to insure the pump is ready should the need arise.
    There are many good ideas in response to my Fix-A- Flat topic and I appreciate each one.
    Thanks,
    Dean412
     
  11. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    I'm using the Black and Decker model below. Yes, I do check it each month and charge if needed. It also has a DC as well as AC charger. So in the pinch, if the battery was dead you could use another car to pump up your tire. Not sure on how many amps it pulls such as if the Roadster could handle the DC task. I also use it for random inflation needs around the house, so it does get used pretty well. I've had it a couple of years so its still holding up strong. Other's have opted for a low amp motorcycle pump and happy with those results as well.

    Black Decker ASI500 12-Volt Cordless Air Station Inflator - Air Compressors - Amazon.com
     
  12. smorgasbord

    smorgasbord Active Member

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    There are other threads on this - probably pays to search.

    The Dynaplug compressor is well suited to the Roadster as it draws less than 10amps, plus it's compact since it's made for motorcycles.


    For repair kits, I have a Nealey. Just add pliers to pull the nail out. There may still be holes, tears, etc. that you can't fix and since you can't easily remove the tire on the side of the road, it's going to be a pain to identify what is causing the problem and then moving the car to ease access to it.


    For jacking up a roadster, I've been toying with carrying around one of these: http://www.calcarcover.com/product/231/31/Low_Profile_Billet_Aluminum_Jack Seems like a nice compact jack you can carry in the trunk. You'd then also need a 7/16" socket and ratchet handle.
     
  13. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

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    For those of you who have a jack in the truck, you should also have two small 2X4s. You will need to drive the flat tire on top of them to get any jack under the car. It sits really low with a flat.
     
  14. Dean412

    Dean412 Member

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    Wiztecy,
    Where did U purchase the Porsche aluminum jack and does the surface that meets the under panel of the Roadster have a flat surface or is there a rise in the middle of the jack surface. I view several on E-Bay for sale at approx.$95 which did not have a flat surface where it meets the Roadster under panel.
    Thanks,
    Dean
     
  15. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    #15 wiztecy, Oct 28, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2015
    The one I purchased on ebay is the same make/style as the one below. Note there's another type that Porsche used which grips a vertical piece of metal that runs down the side of the car, don't get that one. I then bought one of those rubber bumpers (caster cup) people use to put under tables/couches/ furniture to distribute the pressure on that aluminum nipple at the top of the jack which will make contact to the jack point on the Roadster. Note, you do need to carry a 2x4 or something rigid that you'll be driving the rear wheel (even if its flat) to allow the jack to fully slide under the car. Note that when you have a flat the car will be sitting lower a few inches.

    I imagine you could cut that aluminum nipple down some so you'll have more clearance. Also if you wish you could make some sort of plate/piece of wood/rubber that has an indentation where that nipple goes up into but allows the top plane to be the same height as the max height of the nipple with a small rubber layer across the top so more weight is evenly distributed across that single point. If you goto HomeDepot with the jack I'm sure you could get quite creative, most likely finding just something off the shelf there that you can throw over the top of it like I did (but improve upon it even more). One great idea another Roadster owner uses on his regular jack is the use of a Hockey Puck. You could mill out the inside of the puck where the nipple would fit inside. That there might be the best solution.

    Lastly if you're patient, you can find a jack in great like new condition anywhere between $45 - $75 which includes the crank handle. $95 is too high I feel and those sellers are looking for impulse buyers.

    MVC+022S1133388050.jpg

    shopping.jpg
     
  16. Dean412

    Dean412 Member

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    Thanks Wiztecy,
    I appreciate the ideas and pics that is very helpful and informative, U put a lot of time into UR answer.
    Dean
     
  17. ecarfan

    ecarfan Well-Known Member

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    wiztecy, the scissors jack shown in your post is from a Porsche 944. Those are very nice, well made and easy to use. When I owned a Porsche 356 I bought one of those to keep in the car in case I needed to change a tire (the original 356 jack is a dangerous joke). The protrusion on the top was designed to fit into an indentation in the chassis side member of the 944. As you noted, a hockey puck with a hollowed out indentation to fit on top of the jack is one way to deal with that. Your rubber caster cup is a great solution.
     
  18. gregd

    gregd Member

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    Given that you're putting up to 810 pounds on the rubber caster (half of 60% of 2,700 pounds), a bit of rubber isn't going to be much different than the metal nub itself. I'd be concerned about denting / bending the underside of the car. A piece of 2x4, with a cut-out for the nub, sounds like a much safer solution.

    Also, if the jack is designed for the much lighter 944, does it have the capacity for the Roadster?

    My own strategy is to use an electric pump and drive; repeat as necessary.
     
  19. ecarfan

    ecarfan Well-Known Member

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    Porsche 944 curb weight is about 3,000 lbs.
    Roadster curb weight is 2,723 lbs.
    The 944 jack can handle it. And I think a hard rubber furniture caster cup floor protector will be fine for very occasional use.
     
  20. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

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    You are to jack only under the specified jack points marked in blue circles under the roadster, there is plenty support with no hollow points under that which would dent the under-shield there. If you're missing those blue dots all bets are off and you're going to be pushing through the tin-foiled like floor-pan. I tested it and ensured if you follow the proper jacking points, everything is fine. Also you're not jacking the entire weight of the Roadster, at most half, and I don't even think that since the Roadster will be tilting on an angle so most of the weight is at the pivot at the opposite side.

    If the Roadster was going to dent there, it would have been already with the floor jacks. Many don't have 100% rubber going across like mine (4 corner aluminum supports and rubber in middle, aluminum is higher) and I put card-board there only so it does not scratch the shield.
     

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