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Free downloads for .STL speaker brackets etc for 3D printing

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Swapped in the Skar yesterday along with some cheap, lightweight sound deadening in the sub area as well as the sub trunk (leftover from previous project).

While I haven't had a ton of listening time yet, I can confidently recommend the swap, especially for under $100 invested. Output volume remains about the same, which I call a win given the efficient OEM sub that is specifically designed for the power given. The improvements are in the quality of sound as well as range, with the Skar giving a more precise 'thump' and being able to go lower, whereas I felt the original was comparatively more flat. I put a thin piece of foam between the adapter and OEM enclosure.

Ultimately the next step would be more power (wink wink @RWAudio), but for now I'm satisfied with it. Dash and door speakers next.

IMG_2688.jpeg
 
I got the fronts installed and they sound so much better than the stock setup. They are much fuller with much more presence in the car. The problem is now they slightly overpower the rear speakers. If you are going to upgrade I highly recommend doing it as a package.
 
I got the fronts installed and they sound so much better than the stock setup. They are much fuller with much more presence in the car. The problem is now they slightly overpower the rear speakers. If you are going to upgrade I highly recommend doing it as a package.
Assuming you have premium audio in that case? Which speakers did you swap and what brand did you install? I was under the impression that changing the rears didn't help much
 
I had to do a little trimming to get the grill to fit. I agree that the front do more, but to fill out the space and have an even response you need to do the back as well. I have MYP with premium auto and a 13" JL 13TW5.
faitalpro 4FE32
 
I had to do a little trimming to get the grill to fit. I agree that the front do more, but to fill out the space and have an even response you need to do the back as well. I have MYP with premium auto and a 13" JL 13TW5.
faitalpro 4FE32
Thank you for the feedback, that sub must be insane!

I have the same speakers ready to go in the dash. I wonder if doing the rear doors vs rear deck would be better, unless doing both.
 
It's a system and the current one is balanced very well. If you only add front than you will overpower the rear. Overall the stock system is missing depth and replacing the speakers definitely improves the quality and range. The fronts have the most effect, but should be balanced with rear speakers, especially if you have people in the back.
The sub is too much and I love it. Running about half power with zero distortion. I have it in the sub trunk in a down firing position. I much prefer the frequency response of a big speaker even if I'm not running it at full power vs a smaller speaker at max power to get the same "volume".
 
Swapped in the Skar yesterday along with some cheap, lightweight sound deadening in the sub area as well as the sub trunk (leftover from previous project).

While I haven't had a ton of listening time yet, I can confidently recommend the swap, especially for under $100 invested. Output volume remains about the same, which I call a win given the efficient OEM sub that is specifically designed for the power given. The improvements are in the quality of sound as well as range, with the Skar giving a more precise 'thump' and being able to go lower, whereas I felt the original was comparatively more flat. I put a thin piece of foam between the adapter and OEM enclosure.

Ultimately the next step would be more power (wink wink @RWAudio), but for now I'm satisfied with it. Dash and door speakers next.

View attachment 1024460
Looks awesome! I'm curious to get this installed and see how it does vs the Kicker with a good amount of power.
 
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Stopping by to thank RWAudio for the extensive work! I DL'd the STL for the dash speakers. Also, I'm in for the remote turn-on module! I am trying to figure out remote turn-on. The 16v system makes things tricky. So far, I was considering tapping into the trailer harness wiring for a turn-on signal. Is this a feasible solution? Here's what I have en-route for the 23 MYP:

XS Power PWR-RS6 14v bettery (15.8V will work well) plus intellicharger

Already have:
Infinity REF 4032 for L/R dash
Infinity Kappa 60CSX 2-way (3-way capable. I'm debating adding the 20mx mids I have on a shelf instead of the 4032's)
D'Amore E660.5 (5 channel - 16v and 2-ohm stable)
Recoil RED-600.1 or MB Quart RA 1000.1 if I don't want to use the 300w sub channel on the 5-channel.
AudioControl DQ-61 (most likely sound processor. Just need to make sure I can accommodate input voltage)

The sub box is yet to be designed. I'll likely build an enclosure for the tub in the hatch. This all depends on the power draw the accessory power setup will tolerate. I have several subs to choose from and I'm not opposed to buying another. Either a single 10" Orion H2 pushed 1k watts or more, or I keep it more conservative and use two pioneer shallow mount 10s, sealed, with 300-500 watts.

I've built several systems in the past. This won't be the easiest, but I plan to keep this install completely reversible. I need help sourcing pigtails and harnesses to interface with the factory amp outputs and the door/dash speaker harnesses. Does anyone have part numbers?

Looking forward to sharing as I build!
 
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Stopping by to thank RWAudio for the extensive work! I DL'd the STL for the dash speakers. Also, I'm in for the remote turn-on module! I am trying to figure out remote turn-on. The 16v system makes things tricky. So far, I was considering tapping into the trailer harness wiring for a turn-on signal. Is this a feasible solution? Here's what I have en-route for the 23 MYP:

XS Power PWR-RS6 14v bettery (15.8V will work well) plus intellicharger

Already have:
Infinity REF 4032 for L/R dash
Infinity Kappa 60CSX 2-way (3-way capable. I'm debating adding the 20mx mids I have on a shelf instead of the 4032's)
D'Amore E660.5 (5 channel - 16v and 2-ohm stable)
Recoil RED-600.1 or MB Quart RA 1000.1 if I don't want to use the 300w sub channel on the 5-channel.
AudioControl DQ-61 (most likely sound processor. Just need to make sure I can accommodate input voltage)

The sub box is yet to be designed. I'll likely build an enclosure for the tub in the hatch. This all depends on the power draw the accessory power setup will tolerate. I have several subs to choose from and I'm not opposed to buying another. Either a single 10" Orion H2 pushed 1k watts or more, or I keep it more conservative and use two pioneer shallow mount 10s, sealed, with 300-500 watts.

I've built several systems in the past. This won't be the easiest, but I plan to keep this install completely reversible. I need help sourcing pigtails and harnesses to interface with the factory amp outputs and the door/dash speaker harnesses. Does anyone have part numbers?

Looking forward to sharing as I build!
Sounds like an exciting build!

I haven't used it myself but the new PAC harness might be the right fit for your build.
 
Weather finally got nicer here in Canada (temporarily) so I installed the Dayton Sig180 woofers in the doors, went back to the Hertz tweeters and installed the Skar sub with the kicker amp. (I'll swap in the Skar amp soon).

Everything fit nicely, the Dayton Sig180 is about the deepest woofer that will fit easily, it touches the window bracket without a foam gasket (between bracket and door) and with the 1/8" gasket it just clears.

IMG_1971.JPG


Early impressions are that I like the Dayton woofer better than the Focal, I'd say it's closer to the Hertz woofer, I'll need more time with a wider variety of music to form a complete picture. I'll have the file added to the website soon for anyone who wants to try these, as they are a pretty good value from Parts Express in the USA or Solen.ca in Canada.

The Skar sub fit nicely, and it sounds pretty good so far, it's different than the kicker sub in many ways, but early impressions again are good. It works with my Kicker bracket, and will also work with my Skar M5001D bracket once I get that tested in the car. I'll have the 3D printable files for these on the website soon as well under Free Downloads.

IMG_1972.JPG
 
Weather finally got nicer here in Canada (temporarily) so I installed the Dayton Sig180 woofers in the doors, went back to the Hertz tweeters and installed the Skar sub with the kicker amp. (I'll swap in the Skar amp soon).

Everything fit nicely, the Dayton Sig180 is about the deepest woofer that will fit easily, it touches the window bracket without a foam gasket (between bracket and door) and with the 1/8" gasket it just clears.

View attachment 1029101

Early impressions are that I like the Dayton woofer better than the Focal, I'd say it's closer to the Hertz woofer, I'll need more time with a wider variety of music to form a complete picture. I'll have the file added to the website soon for anyone who wants to try these, as they are a pretty good value from Parts Express in the USA or Solen.ca in Canada.

The Skar sub fit nicely, and it sounds pretty good so far, it's different than the kicker sub in many ways, but early impressions again are good. It works with my Kicker bracket, and will also work with my Skar M5001D bracket once I get that tested in the car. I'll have the 3D printable files for these on the website soon as well under Free Downloads.

View attachment 1029102
I don't see any sound deadening in your photos, have you done the front doors? I did mine at the same time as the woofer swap, so don't have much of a "before" to compare to. But I first only did the metal. The biggest difference was when I pulled it apart again and deadened the heck out of the plastic door molding. I noticed that when I don't feel the vibration on my leg it helps to de-localize the bass from that speaker. It seems to come from nowhere now more than from the door.

Do you ever do any RTA measurements with your experimenting, or just judge subjectively by ear?
 
I don't see any sound deadening in your photos, have you done the front doors? I did mine at the same time as the woofer swap, so don't have much of a "before" to compare to. But I first only did the metal. The biggest difference was when I pulled it apart again and deadened the heck out of the plastic door molding. I noticed that when I don't feel the vibration on my leg it helps to de-localize the bass from that speaker. It seems to come from nowhere now more than from the door.

Do you ever do any RTA measurements with your experimenting, or just judge subjectively by ear?
Still too cold to sound deaden, that's a summer project. I'm thinking of doing the 3 layer treatment with sound deadening/closed cell foam/Mass loaded vinyl throughout the whole car. I did this years ago to a 2001 F150 and the results were pretty incredible.

There's definitely some cancelation, creating a null in the midbass (like almost all cars have) but I swear I had better midbass when I was using the Balance control to choose Dayton woofer/Hertz tweeter, vs the other side that still had the Focal woofer and tweeter. I think I might swap the phase on the passenger woofer and see if it helps or hurts the null. This will take some measurement though, my ears aren't that good.

Speaking of measurements, I have taken some REW captures of a couple of different configurations, they are in one of my threads.
Tomorrow is the last nice day here for a bit, I'm tempted to install the Skar amp tomorrow so that I can test it for a while in a configuration more people would likely put together (skar amp/sub).
 
Weather finally got nicer here in Canada (temporarily) so I installed the Dayton Sig180 woofers in the doors, went back to the Hertz tweeters and installed the Skar sub with the kicker amp. (I'll swap in the Skar amp soon).

Everything fit nicely, the Dayton Sig180 is about the deepest woofer that will fit easily, it touches the window bracket without a foam gasket (between bracket and door) and with the 1/8" gasket it just clears.

View attachment 1029101

Early impressions are that I like the Dayton woofer better than the Focal, I'd say it's closer to the Hertz woofer, I'll need more time with a wider variety of music to form a complete picture. I'll have the file added to the website soon for anyone who wants to try these, as they are a pretty good value from Parts Express in the USA or Solen.ca in Canada.

The Skar sub fit nicely, and it sounds pretty good so far, it's different than the kicker sub in many ways, but early impressions again are good. It works with my Kicker bracket, and will also work with my Skar M5001D bracket once I get that tested in the car. I'll have the 3D printable files for these on the website soon as well under Free Downloads.

View attachment 1029102
Great post, thanks for sharing! I've been quite pleased with my Skar sub so far, even with the stock amp.

Interesting findings on the Dayton Sig180, makes me wonder if I should reconsider prior to installing my Focal ISU 200. I have a set of Dayton Audio tweeters for the doors (AN25) that I got in a bundle which I wasn't planning on using, but they might pair well with the DA woofers. I sent you a PM.
 
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I've had a few days to live with the recent changes (out with the Focal ISU200 woofer/tweeter as well as the Kicker L7T8) installing the Dayton SIG180-4, the Hertz MP25.3 and Skar VD-8 D4.

I'll start with the sub, I'm pleasantly surprised, it's low end response is fuller. I'll have to take some frequency measurements at some point but subjectively there's an extra octave down there. The tradeoff is some punch, it doesn't have the impact of the Kicker or especially the new Highland's dual 8".
I could easily live with this, I think this subwoofer works better with the stock enclosure than the kicker. There are different resonances in the car and new panels have come to life. I went with the dual 4 ohm version so that I could find someone with a LR/Performance to try this with the stock amp. The kicker amp still provides plenty of power at 2 ohms (dual 4 ohm coils in parallel) but I suspect the dual 2 ohm would work better with the Kicker 500.1 or Skar 5001D for those who are upgrading a RWD.
Conclusion on the sub: The kicker doesn't provide the same value, if you're on a budget, go with the Skar. If you're not on a budget but prefer low bass vs punchy bass, again go with the Skar. I'll need more time, but subjectively the Kicker is more articulate, the bass is cleaner and tighter, but the Skar is quite enjoyable no question about it.

Tweeters, I've talked about this previously and knew that I prefer the Hertz MP25.3 tweeter to the Focal tweeter. Much of that is my personal preference, the Hertz is just smoother less fatiguing and I'm not exactly sure how to describe it, but the Hertz just sounds better, so unlike the sub where I could live with either, my taste just doesn't jive with the focal. If you like brighter tweeters, the focal might be for you. I have some Dayton tweeters to try, perhaps there's something a bit more budget friendly that performs like the Hertz.

Door woofers, the Dayton SIG180-4 reminds me of the Hertz woofer, I'll have to swap the Hertz back in for a more back to back comparison but as a direct comparison to the Focal, I like the Dayton better. It's not as night and day as the tweeters, but the midbass is just a bit nicer, I'll have to do another comparison to see how they work with the Kicker sub. The bass is just everywhere, it's less identifiable as far as proximity compared to the Focal/Kicker. As a whole the system is more well rounded (Scan Speak 10F's in the dash/rear doors, plus the Dayton/Hertz/Skar I've been talking about). Given the price, just like the Skar, the Focal woofer isn't worth the premium, and the Hertz woofer might not be either, I'll have to swap the Hertz woofer back in after I've gotten used to the Dayton for a month or so.

That's not to say the Focal set is bad, it's a lot better than the stock speakers, there's just more room for improvement, the universal line is one of Focals lowest lines so I can't fault it.

I could live with this system as it is today and be incredibly happy.

I'll get the Skar amp in soon and see how it pairs with the Skar sub. If those work well together it might be a great budget option without significant compromise.
 
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I've had a few days to live with the recent changes (out with the Focal ISU200 woofer/tweeter as well as the Kicker L7T8) installing the Dayton SIG180-4, the Hertz MP25.3 and Skar VD-8 D4.

I'll start with the sub, I'm pleasantly surprised, it's low end response is fuller. I'll have to take some frequency measurements at some point but subjectively there's an extra octave down there. The tradeoff is some punch, it doesn't have the impact of the Kicker or especially the new Highland's dual 8".
I could easily live with this, I think this subwoofer works better with the stock enclosure than the kicker. There are different resonances in the car and new panels have come to life. I went with the dual 4 ohm version so that I could find someone with a LR/Performance to try this with the stock amp. The kicker amp still provides plenty of power at 2 ohms (dual 4 ohm coils in parallel) but I suspect the dual 2 ohm would work better with the Kicker 500.1 or Skar 5001D for those who are upgrading a RWD.
Conclusion on the sub: The kicker doesn't provide the same value, if you're on a budget, go with the Skar. If you're not on a budget but prefer low bass vs punchy bass, again go with the Skar. I'll need more time, but subjectively the Kicker is more articulate, the bass is cleaner and tighter, but the Skar is quite enjoyable no question about it.

Tweeters, I've talked about this previously and knew that I prefer the Hertz MP25.3 tweeter to the Focal tweeter. Much of that is my personal preference, the Hertz is just smoother less fatiguing and I'm not exactly sure how to describe it, but the Hertz just sounds better, so unlike the sub where I could live with either, my taste just doesn't jive with the focal. If you like brighter tweeters, the focal might be for you. I have some Dayton tweeters to try, perhaps there's something a bit more budget friendly that performs like the Hertz.

Door woofers, the Dayton SIG180-4 reminds me of the Hertz woofer, I'll have to swap the Hertz back in for a more back to back comparison but as a direct comparison to the Focal, I like the Dayton better. It's not as night and day as the tweeters, but the midbass is just a bit nicer, I'll have to do another comparison to see how they work with the Kicker sub. The bass is just everywhere, it's less identifiable as far as proximity compared to the Focal/Kicker. As a whole the system is more well rounded (Scan Speak 10F's in the dash/rear doors, plus the Dayton/Hertz/Skar I've been talking about). Given the price, just like the Skar, the Focal woofer isn't worth the premium, and the Hertz woofer might not be either, I'll have to swap the Hertz woofer back in after I've gotten used to the Dayton for a month or so.

That's not to say the Focal set is bad, it's a lot better than the stock speakers, there's just more room for improvement, the universal line is one of Focals lowest lines so I can't fault it.

I could live with this system as it is today and be incredibly happy.

I'll get the Skar amp in soon and see how it pairs with the Skar sub. If those work well together it might be a great budget option without significant compromise.
Great insight! I agree on the Skar and think it's very good for what it is, even on the stock amp. Can't wait to see how the Dayton Audio AN25 tweeters sound with the SIG180 door woofers.
 
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Great post, thanks for sharing! I've been quite pleased with my Skar sub so far, even with the stock amp.

Interesting findings on the Dayton Sig180, makes me wonder if I should reconsider prior to installing my Focal ISU 200. I have a set of Dayton Audio tweeters for the doors (AN25) that I got in a bundle which I wasn't planning on using, but they might pair well with the DA woofers. I sent you a PM.
Did you need an adaptor bracket to install the Skar sub? If not, I'm a bit lost because the screws don't line up with factory.

Thanks in advance!