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Free downloads for .STL speaker brackets etc for 3D printing
- Thread starter RWAudio
- Start date
Yes, i just chose to go with an Alpine amp 500w that another guy had connected to a 2023 With no issues. Also i was so dumb when i was asking you about the door woofers, for some reason i was so confused that they were somehow woofer/speaker combo, but they are there only to produce the bass, so my next question is, can we add a 2ohm or 4ohm woofers instead of the 8ohm stock woofers on the doors?I would try something like this:
Kicker 46KISLOC2
K Series 2-channel line output converter with 12-volt turn-on leadwww.crutchfield.com
I finally found some that might just work perfect for what i want them and the budget.
Higher wattage but i know if we drop ohms we might be able to achieve something a bit higher on power.
This would be great info! I have the dual 2 ohm version of this woofer, so it probably wouldn't be safe to run on the factory amp. But if anyone in the Calgary AB area with premium audio wants to install the dual 4 ohm version of the L7T8 I'll give you a discount on the adapter bracket, I have the Mic set up to take a before/after measurement using REW.
I'm looking at those Scars as well. Was it the depth that makes it tight, when you say the Focals barely fit? Here are the measurements I found:
Mounting Depth:
Focal ISU200: 63.5mm
Dayton Sig225: 101.5mm, no wonder it does not fit
Skar FX8: 77mm
So those Skars need an additional 14mm depth clearance. The magnet is also 30mm wider than the Focals. Would you guess these would fit with the brackets you designed? If not, is there room between the speakers and the grill in the door panel that I could modify your STL to bring them out a bit?
I'm not down to spend the funds on those Focals, and I'd prefer not to go down to 6.5". I'll have a sub in the trunk, so I'd like to keep that cutoff fairly low and be able to handoff the midbass to the doors. I'm concerned depending on the sub for midbass will be hampered by the rear seats and deck. My last car had 6.5" in the doors and I always wanted something to better handle bidbass below 100hz.
I might just give it a shot, and if they don't work maybe I can put them in the rear deck and get my midbass from there.
The focal barely fits based on diameter, I used the factory woofer as a reference for how far from the door it's mounted, I haven't measured where the window sits to get a maximum depth, but I do have some Dayton SIG180-4s to try in the doors, so I'll try and get some measurements while I'm in there.
Attachments
Coming soon 
It should work with my existing bracket for the Kicker Key 500.1. I understand the Kicker amp/sub is a bit expensive, so I've also ordered the Skar 500w class D and I'll design a bracket for it too. This should give people an alternative at roughly half the cost of the Kickers. I'll provide subjective feedback on how it sounds once I install it. This bracket will be available in the free downloads once I verify it fits. I also have a stock Tesla amp on order so I can test-fit subwoofers for those with the premium system who just want to replace the subwoofer. I went with the Dual 4 ohm coil (D4) instead of the D2, in hopes of helping someone with a factory premium system upgrade their sub. Also, the Skar amp is rated 380W at 2 ohms, and 500W at 1 ohm, so it's right around the desired power level at 2ohms (or dual 4 ohm coils in parallel).
It should work with my existing bracket for the Kicker Key 500.1. I understand the Kicker amp/sub is a bit expensive, so I've also ordered the Skar 500w class D and I'll design a bracket for it too. This should give people an alternative at roughly half the cost of the Kickers. I'll provide subjective feedback on how it sounds once I install it. This bracket will be available in the free downloads once I verify it fits. I also have a stock Tesla amp on order so I can test-fit subwoofers for those with the premium system who just want to replace the subwoofer. I went with the Dual 4 ohm coil (D4) instead of the D2, in hopes of helping someone with a factory premium system upgrade their sub. Also, the Skar amp is rated 380W at 2 ohms, and 500W at 1 ohm, so it's right around the desired power level at 2ohms (or dual 4 ohm coils in parallel).
fiveangle
Member
Exciting !!! I'm super curious about possible stock premium ss subwoofer upgrade, and yes, was hesitant to just roll the dice on a $200 sub that might be no better with the stock amp than the original 
so that's awesome you have the stock amp coming. My only concern is that according to this post they weren't able to get the factory sub to function in their non-premium vehicle. Do you have some new secret sauce ?
so that's awesome you have the stock amp coming. My only concern is that according to this post they weren't able to get the factory sub to function in their non-premium vehicle. Do you have some new secret sauce ? I have the stock amp on order for size purposes only (it appears to be from a flooded car). I already have a Kicker 500w amp installed for testing different subwoofers. As a non premium car I couldn't hook up the stock amp anyway, none of the wiring is there. My goal is to advise people what fits, and how things sound. I did get the dual 4 ohm Skar in hopes that I can install it for someone with a premium system and do a back to back comparison with the stock sub to see if it's worth upgrading or not.Exciting !!! I'm super curious about possible stock premium ss subwoofer upgrade, and yes, was hesitant to just roll the dice on a $200 sub that might be no better with the stock amp than the original
In a previous post I mentioned ordering the Skar SK-M5001D to match up with the Skar subwoofer. The missing piece is the remote turn on signal that others have been searching for. I have a solution in the works that uses one of the speaker lines (you need L/R door woofer signals to feed the amp anyway) this creates a 12v regulated output for remote turn on. This will be a simple 3 wire hookup, using either the left or right woofer signal, Ground, and Remote. All of these signals are right at the amp, so hookup should be easy. This should work with most aftermarket amplifiers as long as the remote current draw isn't too high.
fiveangle
Member
Ah, okay, for sizing purposes makes sense. I wonder if there were some way I could perform some maximum power measurements on my stock premium sub with the goal of you being able to adjust the gain down on your 500.1 so you could gain insight as to what drivers you believe would be efficient enough. I'll give this some thought, but please let me know if you have any ideas !
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