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Good to use this 10-30 for charging?

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Laundry room shares a wall with the garage, and we don’t use this 10-30 outlet for the dryer so it just sits there. am I right in thinking I can just remount the receptacle on the garage side and be good to go for charging from it?
 

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Sure, just slap a blank cover over the hole on this side and install a retrofit box on the other side. You can run the wires right into a wall charger or re-use the outlet if you already have a mobile charger. Note that there are usually horizontal fire blocker studs in the wall that may make it difficult to relocate this circuit higher up on the wall.
 
If your looking for permanent home charging I would hard wire a charger in your garage. The Tesla wall connector is available at an attractive price.

Electrical code require that outlets in the garage or outdoors be installed with a GFCI breaker. These breakers are expensive and can trip frequently. Hard wiring something like a wall connector eliminates the need for the GFCI breaker (no receptacle).

Lastly you can choose to reuse the dryer circuit but you would be limited (assuming 30 amp breaker) to 24 amps max charge rate (half the max charge rate). Ideally if you could run a new 60 amp circuit and hard wire in a wall connector that would give you a safe, reliable, fast charging setup long term.
 
If your looking for permanent home charging I would hard wire a charger in your garage. The Tesla wall connector is available at an attractive price.

Electrical code require that outlets in the garage or outdoors be installed with a GFCI breaker. These breakers are expensive and can trip frequently. Hard wiring something like a wall connector eliminates the need for the GFCI breaker (no receptacle).

Lastly you can choose to reuse the dryer circuit but you would be limited (assuming 30 amp breaker) to 24 amps max charge rate (half the max charge rate). Ideally if you could run a new 60 amp circuit and hard wire in a wall connector that would give you a safe, reliable, fast charging setup long term.
Yup yup. Long term plan is a sub panel in the garage so all of my tools can get off the circuits for the main house, and run a dedicated line off of that, but that’s probably a summer project so I’m looking for a solid solution. For the next 6 months or so. Not too concerned about charging speed, if I drive more than 100 miles a week then it’s a very unusual week.
 
if I drive more than 100 miles a week then it’s a very unusual week.
Then don't change a thing. Use a standard 120V outlet and get 5 mi/hr. Don't waste your time and effort moving this outlet for all of six months use. If you REALLY need more speed from time to time, run the UMC cord into the laundry room(this isn't really kosher, but its better than wasting an hour or more moving outlets)
 
The 10-30 receptacle does not use a ground wire connection so unless there is an unused ground wire behind the 10-30 receptacle you could not use this circuit with the Tesla Wall Connector. You could relocate the 10-30 receptacle on the garage side of the wall and the circuit would need a GFCI circuit breaker to be code compliant. Since you have plans to install a sub panel it makes sense to charge, for the present time, on an available 120V receptacle (good for 3 to 4 miles added per hour, 36 to 44 miles added over 12 hours when charging.) When you do install the sub panel plan on installing the Tesla Wall Connector on a new 240V/ 40A, 50A or 60A charging circuit (a GFCI circuit breaker is not required, should not be used with the Tesla Wall Connector.)
 
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The 10-30 receptacle does not use a ground wire connection so unless there is an unused ground wire behind the 10-30 receptacle you could not use this circuit with the Tesla Wall Connector.
Some green tape on each end of the neutral conductor, plus re-landing the neutral on the ground bus at the panel (if necessary - probably isn’t if the circuit terminates at the main panel / service entrance where ground and neutral is bonded) would hypothetically address this, ya?
 
Some green tape on each end of the neutral conductor, plus re-landing the neutral on the ground bus at the panel (if necessary - probably isn’t if the circuit terminates at the main panel / service entrance where ground and neutral is bonded) would hypothetically address this, ya?
You could repurpose the neutral wire to be the ground connection if you can be certain that the neutral wire from the 10-30 receptacle currently only goes to the existing service panel, is not shared with other outlets.
 
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Then don't change a thing. Use a standard 120V outlet and get 5 mi/hr. Don't waste your time and effort moving this outlet for all of six months use. If you REALLY need more speed from time to time, run the UMC cord into the laundry room(this isn't really kosher, but its better than wasting an hour or more moving outlets)
This is probably the best advice given that it's temporary and worst case average is less than 20 miles per day.