Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!

[Garlan Garner]

Thanks for the insights. Do you think if I get a 12V splitter for the cigarette plug I can use the the 12V source from there? I know it's not always on, but that's the same behavior as default (sometimes when car is asleep trunk button doesn't open). I just want to avoid drilling a hole for power and am hesitant to tap the 12V source near the rear passenger seat.

Hello,

You can indeed tap the cigarette plug if you wish, however as you say....its not always on. That's the very reason I didn't tap there for the frunk/trunk openers. You would certainly NOT want to tap there if you install the foot sensor because you would ALWAYS want that to work.
As a matter of fact...I used to hate it when I couldn't open the trunk because the car was in a "deep" sleep and I would have to open a door to wake it up in order to open the trunk.

NOW- ( since I went straight to the 12V battery for power ) I use the trunk foot sensor / button to wake the car up and I don't have to open a door or the charge port or anything.

 

[Garlan Garner]

Thanks.. I tried both of those same adjustments and didn't seem to change it. Looking at more closely today it seems its just the very bottom front lip of the frunk hood where it meets the bumper is about 1/16th or so high. It's flush along the quarter panel. So I think it's chalked up to panel alignment and not the install. Even if I was able to pull that bottom front corner down some more it wouldn't sit flush along the quarter panel then.

Make sure that the panel that covers the latch is re-installed all the way down flush with the rest of the trim because the front latch will also do a semi-release once closed when there is too much pressure on the full close.

You can also lower the 2 plastic black alignment screws - just in case they are creating too much pressure for the latch to hold the frunk closed.

 

[not4antoher]

I received mine today.

 

[Luudcrs]

Thanks for the insights. Do you think if I get a 12V splitter for the cigarette plug I can use the the 12V source from there? I know it's not always on, but that's the same behavior as default (sometimes when car is asleep trunk button doesn't open). I just want to avoid drilling a hole for power and am hesitant to tap the 12V source near the rear passenger seat.

As some others have mentioned, the cigarette plug is possible but the power will not always be on. To be honest, the grommet way is really simple and you don't even have to drill. The rubber is not that thick so you can just poke any sharp object through to pull the cable. There's already 2 cables going through it, so you're just adding another. The battery terminal is literally a foot away from that grommet.

 

[jebs2k]

As some others have mentioned, the cigarette plug is possible but the power will not always be on. To be honest, the grommet way is really simple and you don't even have to drill. The rubber is not that thick so you can just poke any sharp object through to pull the cable. There's already 2 cables going through it, so you're just adding another. The battery terminal is literally a foot away from that grommet.

Grommet on driver or passenger side?

 

[xilex]

You can indeed tap the cigarette plug if you wish, however as you say....its not always on. That's the very reason I didn't tap there for the frunk/trunk openers. You would certainly NOT want to tap there if you install the foot sensor because you would ALWAYS want that to work.
As a matter of fact...I used to hate it when I couldn't open the trunk because the car was in a "deep" sleep and I would have to open a door to wake it up in order to open the trunk.

As some others have mentioned, the cigarette plug is possible but the power will not always be on. To be honest, the grommet way is really simple and you don't even have to drill. The rubber is not that thick so you can just poke any sharp object through to pull the cable. There's already 2 cables going through it, so you're just adding another. The battery terminal is literally a foot away from that grommet.

That is great to know. I'm not comfortable enough to mess around with the grommet yet, so I just want to keep things simple for now. I think I should be able to change it if it becomes annoying having to wake up the car. 90% of the time when I go to the trunk the car is already awake. Maybe that changes in the future.

By the way, can you stick the push button somewhere without having to drill anything, too?

 

[GreenHokie]

As some others have mentioned, the cigarette plug is possible but the power will not always be on. To be honest, the grommet way is really simple and you don't even have to drill. The rubber is not that thick so you can just poke any sharp object through to pull the cable. There's already 2 cables going through it, so you're just adding another. The battery terminal is literally a foot away from that grommet.

For those of you who don’t want to run the power cable through the rubber grommet, Tesla Offer made another video showing an alternate route to the 12V battery. See attached video and skip to the 23:20 minute mark...

 

[Luudcrs]

Grommet on driver or passenger side?

Upper left corner of passenger footwell.

That is great to know. I'm not comfortable enough to mess around with the grommet yet, so I just want to keep things simple for now. I think I should be able to change it if it becomes annoying having to wake up the car. 90% of the time when I go to the trunk the car is already awake. Maybe that changes in the future.

By the way, can you stick the push button somewhere without having to drill anything, too?

Do me a favor, go out to your car and pull away the liner in the upper left passenger footwell and take a look at the grommet. Super simple after you take a look at it.

Where you place the push button is limited by the length of that cable. I think it's about a foot or so and attached to the trunk handle module. So it has to be somewhere on the underside plastic cover and you'll have to drill a hole.

For those of you who don’t want to run the power cable through the rubber grommet, Tesla Offer made another video showing an alternate route to the 12V battery. See attached video and skip to the 23:20 minute mark...

Hmm...I somehow missed this video before my install. Honestly though, I still think the rubber grommet is the easier route. And if you drill/poke a hole big enough for just the cable to go through and decide against using it, the rubber just closes the hole back up and you can't even see it.

 

[GreenHokie]

Hmm...I somehow missed this video before my install. Honestly though, I still think the rubber grommet is the easier route. And if you drill/poke a hole big enough for just the cable to go through and decide against using it, the rubber just closes the hole back up and you can't even see it.

Yeah, I haven’t decided how & where I’ll be running the power cable when my trunk kit arrives. Looks like there are several viable options.

While still easy, the rubber grommet route requires removal of more interior panels/liners/carpeting than the route which goes through/behind the door frame. My personal belief is, once you remove a panel or liner, they sometimes don’t go back and fit as snuggly as before. For this reason, I’m leaning towards that alternate route through/behind the door frame.

 

[smatthew]

Installed my frunk kit last night. Took about 90 minutes.

 

[Sjv2000]

Is the Group Buy still available?

 

[Kiyi]

Is the Group Buy still available?

Would like to know too

 

[netjack]

Over my communication via whatsapp, the rep says they fixed the connector problem so here's hoping mine is with the "fixed" connector. Whatever that means.

 

[GreenHokie]

Over my communication via whatsapp, the rep says they fixed the connector problem so here's hoping mine is with the "fixed" connector. Whatever that means.

The “fixed” product/solution is they simply cut the wiring right before each connector, so you can easily run the wires through the conduit. Here is a photo that William at Hansshow just sent to me. Once you run the wires to where they need to go, you have to reconnect the wires yourself using the method/type of your choice. So, you’ll need to have some wire connectors handy. Thankfully, all the wires are color coded, so matching up & reconnecting the correct wires together should be very easy/straightforward.

I have not received my kits yet. But was told it has shipped. I ordered both trunk & frunk kits back on September 26. Waiting patiently with no complaints about the length of time. To put things into perspective, I waited over 2 months to get my order from Jeda.... and Hansshow has been far, far more responsive to my questions. Relax people!!!

 

[yerEVan]

Has anyone else not heard anything since the initial payment a few weeks ago? I have gotten no email response to a request for an update, nor any shipping info, nor package.

 

[jebs2k]

Has anyone else not heard anything since the initial payment a few weeks ago? I have gotten no email response to a request for an update, nor any shipping info, nor package.

china company is super shady. you have to call them and threaten before they will ship your order out. they will also send you fake tracking #'s to buy time
mine is finally scheduled to arrive today
*fingers crossed*

 

[yerEVan]

china company is super shady. you have to call them and threaten before they will ship your order out. they will also send you fake tracking #'s to buy time
mine is finally scheduled to arrive today
*fingers crossed*

If they are that shady, why the hell did I buy it then? Damn it! Do they honor any kind of warranty? So, i guess I’ll have to threaten I’ll pull the money back from paypal. Ok thanks.

 

[Luudcrs]

The “fixed” product/solution is they simply cut the wiring right before each connector, so you can easily run the wires through the conduit. Here is a photo that William at Hansshow just sent to me. Once you run the wires to where they need to go, you have to reconnect the wires yourself using the method/type of your choice. So, you’ll need to have some wire connectors handy. Thankfully, all the wires are color coded, so matching up & reconnecting the correct wires together should be very easy/straightforward.

That's exactly what I had to do, cut and then soldered back after fishing them through. See video below around 9:30 mark. I thought the newer kits are supposed to like that with easy connectors. But maybe that was something TeslaOffer did just for their kits.

If they are that shady, why the hell did I buy it then? Damn it! Do they honor any kind of warranty? So, i guess I’ll have to threaten I’ll pull the money back from paypal. Ok thanks.

It's all a matter of how bad you want it. As far as I know, they are the only manufacturer of the original kit. Others (like TeslaOffer) are just taking it, customizing it, marking it up, then selling as their own.

 

[MJP.P3D-]

I had heard nothing from them until this past Monday when I received a text and now, just today, the package arrived! Can’t wait to install it...

 

[MJP.P3D-]

@Garlan Garner — for some reason unknown to me, I am unable to start a conversation with you; my power trunk kit arrived today—if you’re still interested in providing some guidance on the installation side of things, would you please reach out to me so we can establish next steps. Thank you.