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Hansshow premium audio upgrade for 2023 M3SR

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I think they are using a Rockville SS10P which also says 12V (not the Alpine), so I don’t know how they are using it.
Normal cars are lead acid or LiFePO4 for the 12v system which tops out around 14.5-15v, so most 12v electronics should work just fine up to 15v, and most amplifiers have their power rating done at 14.4v. Some amplifiers may have over-voltage protection which could kick in anywhere above 15v, there's a good chance most amps would be capable of 16v but without them saying so it's not a risk I'm willing to take, and not one I would recommend anyone else take either.
 
I wanted to share my subwoofer response curves. I've had a 10" sub in the sub-trunk, but it has a big cancelation at 61 or 62 Hz. I tried to cover that by playing my doors lower and cutting off the sub above 60, but its just too much for the doors. I was able to get the cancelation frequency to move around a bit, but since nothing made it a non-issue I still think the best place for a sub is in the subtrunk. I'll EQ the sub to play flat from 20-50 and hopefully minimize the cancelation. Pay no attention to the db levels of the graphs, I've got them separated to show the differences.
sub position.jpg
 

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Normal cars are lead acid or LiFePO4 for the 12v system which tops out around 14.5-15v, so most 12v electronics should work just fine up to 15v, and most amplifiers have their power rating done at 14.4v. Some amplifiers may have over-voltage protection which could kick in anywhere above 15v, there's a good chance most amps would be capable of 16v but without them saying so it's not a risk I'm willing to take, and not one I would recommend anyone else take either.
Ugh, not trying to hijack this thread but this comment got me worried.

I've read a ton of posts on here and thought I had everything mapped out. Got my Hansshow harness, LC02, and what I thought was a pretty decent sub/amp combo that wasn't super powerful in order to not trip the 16v, All with audio in power on to help with not tripping the penthouse . I'm not looking for anything crazy, just a little bass in the back but, is this sub/amp combo going to be an issue because it's 14.4?

I just got it so I can probably send it back, and if it is, can anyone suggest something similar that will go up to 16v?

 
Ugh, not trying to hijack this thread but this comment got me worried.

I've read a ton of posts on here and thought I had everything mapped out. Got my Hansshow harness, LC02, and what I thought was a pretty decent sub/amp combo that wasn't super powerful in order to not trip the 16v, All with audio in power on to help with not tripping the penthouse . I'm not looking for anything crazy, just a little bass in the back but, is this sub/amp combo going to be an issue because it's 14.4?

I just got it so I can probably send it back, and if it is, can anyone suggest something similar that will go up to 16v?

I looked through the manual, and as you said the highest voltage it mentions is 14.4v. I would be cautious and only use a product that specifically states it works up to 16v. I believe others on here have mentioned all in one solutions that are rated up to 16v, I haven't used any of these personally, but if you go with a separate amp/sub the Kicker Key 500.1 and the Skar SK-M5001D are both rated to 16v and I've been running the kicker for a year and it works flawlessly.
 
Ugh, not trying to hijack this thread but this comment got me worried.

I've read a ton of posts on here and thought I had everything mapped out. Got my Hansshow harness, LC02, and what I thought was a pretty decent sub/amp combo that wasn't super powerful in order to not trip the 16v, All with audio in power on to help with not tripping the penthouse . I'm not looking for anything crazy, just a little bass in the back but, is this sub/amp combo going to be an issue because it's 14.4?

I just got it so I can probably send it back, and if it is, can anyone suggest something similar that will go up to 16v?

Doing a quick look at powered subwoofers I found these that specifically say they work up to 16v

The above was simply a quick look at the powered sub section on Crutchfield. I browsed the manual and it's typically under troubleshooting where you find it says make sure the voltage is between 11-16v for proper operation. Now having said that, I have no idea if any of the above are good, garbage or somewhere in between. If you find one that looks like it fits your budget and size, maybe look up reviews on the specific model. I grabbed info on one of each brand, there's a pretty good chance other sizes or styles from the same brand will also work at 16v but don't take it for granted, look at the manual for each model even within the same brand or series.

Just as a note, the Pioneer TS-WX400DA States it works up to 15.1v so we can't just assume everything is going to work with the Tesla 16v low voltage system.
 
Doing a quick look at powered subwoofers I found these that specifically say they work up to 16v

The above was simply a quick look at the powered sub section on Crutchfield. I browsed the manual and it's typically under troubleshooting where you find it says make sure the voltage is between 11-16v for proper operation. Now having said that, I have no idea if any of the above are good, garbage or somewhere in between. If you find one that looks like it fits your budget and size, maybe look up reviews on the specific model. I grabbed info on one of each brand, there's a pretty good chance other sizes or styles from the same brand will also work at 16v but don't take it for granted, look at the manual for each model even within the same brand or series.

Just as a note, the Pioneer TS-WX400DA States it works up to 15.1v so we can't just assume everything is going to work with the Tesla 16v low voltage system.
Thank you so much! Yeah after I made my post I started scouring sites and downloading PDF after PDF looking for info on a bunch of stuff. Good to know it's in the troubleshooting area because that's where I started to look. Bummer that the Fozgate doesn't work, got great reviews, but back it goes.

Sorry, just have one more question. Is the relay/fuse setup from here still needed even if you use the GTO from the LC2i? I'm reading conflicting information. Some say the GTO doesn't actually work because of sentry mode. That you'll have to actually tap into the center console for remote on. A lot of others aren't using anything but an amp and sub combo. Just want to be safe. Be a very expensive mistake if I screw something up.

Thanks again!
 

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Thank you so much! Yeah after I made my post I started scouring sites and downloading PDF after PDF looking for info on a bunch of stuff. Good to know it's in the troubleshooting area because that's where I started to look. Bummer that the Fozgate doesn't work, got great reviews, but back it goes.

Sorry, just have one more question. Is the relay/fuse setup from here still needed even if you use the GTO from the LC2i? I'm reading conflicting information. Some say the GTO doesn't actually work because of sentry mode. That you'll have to actually tap into the center console for remote on. A lot of others aren't using anything but an amp and sub combo. Just want to be safe. Be a very expensive mistake if I screw something up.

Thanks again!
You do not need the wiring you linked to, (as long as you have a newer car with 16v battery, which I'm assuming you do given your initial question) just use the power under the right rear seat, you can either use the ground under the rear seat as well, or there's a good ground by the right rear tail light where the factory premium amp is grounded (other stuff is grounded there if you have a RWD).

You don't need the LC2i if the powered sub you choose has dc offset turn on and high level inputs. Everything I linked to has these features (the Sony doesn't state with confidence that it will work though). Just run door woofer signals to the high level inputs.
 
Thank you so much! Yeah after I made my post I started scouring sites and downloading PDF after PDF looking for info on a bunch of stuff. Good to know it's in the troubleshooting area because that's where I started to look. Bummer that the Fozgate doesn't work, got great reviews, but back it goes.

Sorry, just have one more question. Is the relay/fuse setup from here still needed even if you use the GTO from the LC2i? I'm reading conflicting information. Some say the GTO doesn't actually work because of sentry mode. That you'll have to actually tap into the center console for remote on. A lot of others aren't using anything but an amp and sub combo. Just want to be safe. Be a very expensive mistake if I screw something up.

Thanks again!
You can also get this to run a remote turn on, it turn it on and off when you close the door. That what I did and it works beautifully.
Tesla Model 3/Y 12V power cord power-off plug car lock door power-off plug | eBay
 
You do not need the wiring you linked to, (as long as you have a newer car with 16v battery, which I'm assuming you do given your initial question) just use the power under the right rear seat, you can either use the ground under the rear seat as well, or there's a good ground by the right rear tail light where the factory premium amp is grounded (other stuff is grounded there if you have a RWD).

You don't need the LC2i if the powered sub you choose has dc offset turn on and high level inputs. Everything I linked to has these features (the Sony doesn't state with confidence that it will work though). Just run door woofer signals to the high level inputs.
Right on. That's another thing I can send back to Amazon.

Really appreciate the input. Gives me confidence I can pull it off for cheaper than I had previously planned.
 
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