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Hansshow premium audio upgrade for 2023 M3SR

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I installed the Hansshow harness recently in my RWD 23. It is working fine. Watch this YT video to double check your connections.

That's an awesome video! Glad that more videos are coming out for how to do this. I was too afraid of breaking things so I didn't try to take off the entire long trim piece that goes from the footwell down the side past the chair. Maybe I'll try that this weekend to clear up / tidy up some of the cabling. I remember just *JAMMING/SHOVING* the cables to make it all fit...
 
My model 3 is a base model, so it doesn’t have any sub in the back.. a friend of mine has a model 3 long range with the oem sub. You can clearly hear the difference between a base model and the long range.

it,s a bigger install to put a sub in the back of the trunk.. too much work… i'll just sell the car and get a long range if someday i want a sub..

for now im a satisfied with the hansshow front speakers activation upgrade.
 
My model 3 is a base model, so it doesn’t have any sub in the back.. a friend of mine has a model 3 long range with the oem sub. You can clearly hear the difference between a base model and the long range.

it,s a bigger install to put a sub in the back of the trunk.. too much work… i'll just sell the car and get a long range if someday i want a sub..

for now im a satisfied with the hansshow front speakers activation upgrade.
putting sub into tesla has nothing different from putting it into civic or camry. Same steps. IMO
 
Plan to install this on my M3 2023 RWD RHD.

Anyone got a good video on how to install on a RHD 2023? I got the DIY (New Version) 2022+ Ryzen Version Right Hand drive.

Also, any good audio settings people recommend after installing it? I assume the default equalizer settings the car comes with will be no good.
 
I've added an OEM subwoofer to my SR+ and used an EV Offer harness with the subwoofer output. According to EV Offer, this just taps both the front L & R door woofers. The amp I've chosen to use is the Pioneer GM-D1004 since it's power ouput perfectly matches the OEM sub, and it has auto sensing on the high level speaker input, so it doesn't need a remote switching wire.

It's all hooked up and working nicely, with one exception. It doesn't turn off when the sound stops, like it should with no signal on the speaker wires. Rather, it will only turn off when the car is asleep or powered off. I've checked the high level lines with no audio playing with a DMM and there appears to be 8mV DC Offset on them unless the car is completely powered off. This is clearly enough voltage to tell the amp to stay on. I know I can go down the route of finding the switched wire up the front and run a specific remote wire to the amp but that kind of defeats part of the reason for me buying it. I'm just a bit frustrated as to why there would even be voltage on the speaker lines with no audio.

I have read a couple of other similar setups that used an Alpine KTP-445U amp which has basically the same specs, yet the auto sensing on the high level lines seems to work for these guys. I'm wondering if the Pioneer is more sensitive on the input, or if it's just something different with my car.
 
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Would someone here mind checking for DC voltage on the speaker wires while the audio is off? This is easiest done if you have the subwoofer output on the EV Offer harness. Reason being, I installed this and there seems to be a constant DC offset on my speaker wires of 8mV. This is keeping my auto sensing amp turned on all the time except when the car is fully powered off.
 
Hi everyone, just finished installing the DIY (New Version) in my 2023 M3 RWD LFP. Here are my notes that I definitely think will be helpful and useful for those trying to find what limited information that is out there:

- More for personal comfort, but be sure to bring a kneepad or something for your knees. A majority of your time will be spent contorting yourself in weird positions to be able to see the wiring. Being gloves, a flashlight (if you have a clip on / headlamp, even better), and a flat-nosed screwdriver (needed to remove some of the connectors - the white connector with black frame around it needs a screwdriver to undo the latch)

- When you begin, bear in mind that the lower trim piece is two pieces. I almost started trying to take the whole bottom off before by accident I realized just the section with the push-pins (there are 4 on mine) is separate and definitely easier to take off. The bigger section (you can tell it has the 3 "slots" alongside the seam that implies you just need to jam your pry tool in there and push to get it to come out. It doesn't.). Also, the push pins you can easily pop open just by using the forked-end of the pry tool. The pins themselves sometimes can pop right out of the "Expanding" part of the push pin. You can just pop them back in, they're not broken.

- The very LONG side trim piece that runs along the doorsill - you don't necessarily have to completely remove this, as it has some give and rotates slightly. I could not remove the triangular panel that sits to the right of the glovebox in order to move the OTHER rectangular trim to gain access to the push pin to remove the entire long side trim piece - the triangular panel had a clip that just didn't want to come out and I was getting scared of damaging the car if I just YANKED really hard.

- The long side trim piece has two plastic "flaps" that slip under the firewall/carpeting towards the right side of the footwell. They help to keep it flush. Be aware of these flaps when rotating/removing the trim piece.

- Removing/installing/connecting the first 2 of 3 parts (the "main" connector and the side connector with the black locking brace) isn't *too* hard, it just is a little hard to get to. The side connector hides behind the long side trim piece, if you are having trouble locating it. It definitely helps to have small fingers...

- Connecting the last connector by the B pillar is slightly more challenging. Some things to note is that it helps to remove the rubber sealing/trim - you can just pull and it comes off. You can easily put it back on. The blue connector is hidden underneath a white connector plug. You can lift the B pillar trim slightly, but just try to not pull it too hard.

- The white plastic cable guide that hides underneath the door sill has a few triangular "slots" that you can push a flat nosed screwdriver into and push to release the latches so you can remove it. It helps a lot to get to the blue connector.

- The most difficult part of the entire process, at least for me, was trying to find a way how to "hide" the frequency cutoff hardware that is built into the cable. I ended up being able to wedge it underneath the long side trim piece. That, and trying to hide/safely cable manage the extra connectors/cable girth putting the long side trim piece back.

In the end, after installation and cleanup, everything looks perfectly fine. There is a slight bulge where the long side trim piece meets the B pillar, and I believe that is due again to the size of the frequency cutoff hardware built into the cable.

Once installation is complete, I tested everything and all the speakers work! Some observations with the speakers on:
- The additional speakers make the sound feel literally like it is coming from a sound source that is physically higher. This of course makes sense, since the speakers are more above you. Before, the sound felt like it came from somewhere waist level. Now it feels more like the sound is coming from shoulder level.

- The speakers, being mid-range and tweeters, help to add a little clarity and expanded sound stage. Previously, the stock sound sounded very much like the speakers were directly in front of you. Now, they sound like the speakers are placed a little further apart from each other.

- The alerts don't sound any louder with the new speakers on. I have Joe Mode on, and it sounds the same to me.

- Bass sounds the same, as it should.

All in all, this process took me about two hours. Mostly because I have never done something like this and am DEFINITELY not a DIY person. Took everything slowly and being my *only* car, and a *Brand new* car at that, I was extremely terrified. I would recommend that if you are patient, take your time, and want to add more ... "spatialness" to your sound, then do it. The improvement is ... not mind-blowing - it is more subtle.


If anyone has any questions, I would be more than happy to answer them. I apologize that I did not take any photos, but would definitely recommend the following video - watched it a million times before doing myself to make sure I knew the process. I apologize if I am being very wordy here, but I just want to put out as much detail as I can for those that are on the fence about doing it or can't find any helpful info.

-
(One thing to note about this is that he is working on an older model. As I mentioned earlier, the first piece you need to remove is not the piece that has the 3 slits/slots. It is further back, and has the actual push-pin holes. Also, this video is for a different installation involving adding rear speakers, and uses a different main connector. The Hansshow one uses the main connector above the one used in this video )
Need help
 
I have an OEM sub in my 2019 SR+ the install isn’t that terrible, I used the alpine KTP-445U miniamp and it’s worked fine for over 2 years.

I got power from the penthouse 12v and grounded on a lug in the OEM sub space.

You’ll only need to tap the front passenger door woofer for signal, if you’re using a speaker activation harness, I recommend tapping those wires instead of the OEM ones in case you ever want to go back to stock.

It’s about a 2 hour install give or take.
 
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I installed Version A in my 2022 SR+ AMD and the rear left surround speaker is emitting white noise and sounds muted compared to the rear right surround speaker. I tested the plug with the other speaker as well as getting the harness replaced and the issue still persists. I also notice when the vehicles parking lights or headlights are on it gets worse. Is anyone experiencing a similar issue or know why this would be happening?
 
Can confirm another successful install of the 2022 DIY (New Version) in my 2023 M3. I don’t know if it is said enough here, but it would’ve helped me out if I knew beforehand that you don’t even touch the driver side of the car. Nor do you touch the felt lined panel on the passenger side on the center console. I know the instructions that ship with it didn’t talk about that, but I rarely referenced those instructions since they were so rudimentary, mostly this forum, and other YouTube videos. And most of the other YouTube videos talked about disassembling the driver side as well.

The monkeying around and gymnastics to fit your hand in to get that first connector was kind of rough. Other than that, not bad.

There are mixed reviews on how the result sounds. I have professional training. So I’m a bit picky sometimes. Before I did the install, I definitely had a lot more bass, slight dip to the mids, and basically simulated a shelf with about 2db boost on both of the treble side controls. Nothing crazy. Afterwards, to make the new high-end drivers pop, I did make the low end boost more subtle, still dipped the mids slightly, and boosted the high-end just a touch. Basically, I run the overall volume a little louder, but dip the lows a bit, and I can really tell the difference, and feel more immersed with the audio more, so hitting my face than my chest. Definitely happy with this upgrade.
 
As a follow up I also installed and tuned a powered sub in the trunk (stock position). I went with a low profile Rockville from Amazon. It’s only 200w RMS (didn’t wanna do anything crazy and trigger an error) low passes at around 80Hz. So far so good. Between this and the harness upgrade, the sound is fantastic now. We’ll rounded and deeper feel. The only other thing would be to install the rear satellite speakers, but honestly, with the work involved, cutting into the liner since they got rid of the stock grills and cut outs, I don’t feel like it’s worth it. I love how it sounds now.
 
As a follow up I also installed and tuned a powered sub in the trunk (stock position). I went with a low profile Rockville from Amazon. It’s only 200w RMS (didn’t wanna do anything crazy and trigger an error) low passes at around 80Hz. So far so good. Between this and the harness upgrade, the sound is fantastic now. We’ll rounded and deeper feel. The only other thing would be to install the rear satellite speakers, but honestly, with the work involved, cutting into the liner since they got rid of the stock grills and cut outs, I don’t feel like it’s worth it. I love how it sounds now.

Which rockville did you go with? And difficult was the sub install?
 
Which rockville did you go with? And difficult was the sub install?
SS10P, then I just got a cheap amp wiring kit and some 14 gauge posi taps. The install wasn’t bad. The biggest PITA interestingly enough was identifying which wires to tap into. Every color pair I read on any of the forums for the passenger side were not correct. So in order to avoid making a mistake, I actually took the passenger side door panel apart to identify the wires going into the sub driver in the door. Mine were gray and brown. Wasn’t too worried about polarity since the amp has a phase reverse. Once I identified the wires in the harness to tap into, just hid the cable underneath the trim pieces to the back of the car, not even sure you need to remove all of them to accomplish this, but I did. As stated elsewhere, just tapped into the power under the passenger seat, and use the ground that’s already next to the stock sub position in the rear passenger side of the trunk. To mount, I carefully drilled into one of the flanged body pieces (in a place where I’m not actually putting a hole in the body exposing the outside) in the back wheel well inside of the cavity where the stock sub normally is, and then mounted the other corner of the sub on the grounding bolt that I used to ground the amplifier. Seems to hold pretty well. Will likely check on it in a month to make sure it’s solid.
 
SS10P, then I just got a cheap amp wiring kit and some 14 gauge posi taps. The install wasn’t bad. The biggest PITA interestingly enough was identifying which wires to tap into. Every color pair I read on any of the forums for the passenger side were not correct. So in order to avoid making a mistake, I actually took the passenger side door panel apart to identify the wires going into the sub driver in the door. Mine were gray and brown. Wasn’t too worried about polarity since the amp has a phase reverse. Once I identified the wires in the harness to tap into, just hid the cable underneath the trim pieces to the back of the car, not even sure you need to remove all of them to accomplish this, but I did. As stated elsewhere, just tapped into the power under the passenger seat, and use the ground that’s already next to the stock sub position in the rear passenger side of the trunk. To mount, I carefully drilled into one of the flanged body pieces (in a place where I’m not actually putting a hole in the body exposing the outside) in the back wheel well inside of the cavity where the stock sub normally is, and then mounted the other corner of the sub on the grounding bolt that I used to ground the amplifier. Seems to hold pretty well. Will likely check on it in a month to make sure it’s solid.
Did you step the voltage down or does the SS10p handle 16 volts?
 
SS10P, then I just got a cheap amp wiring kit and some 14 gauge posi taps. The install wasn’t bad. The biggest PITA interestingly enough was identifying which wires to tap into. Every color pair I read on any of the forums for the passenger side were not correct. So in order to avoid making a mistake, I actually took the passenger side door panel apart to identify the wires going into the sub driver in the door. Mine were gray and brown. Wasn’t too worried about polarity since the amp has a phase reverse. Once I identified the wires in the harness to tap into, just hid the cable underneath the trim pieces to the back of the car, not even sure you need to remove all of them to accomplish this, but I did. As stated elsewhere, just tapped into the power under the passenger seat, and use the ground that’s already next to the stock sub position in the rear passenger side of the trunk. To mount, I carefully drilled into one of the flanged body pieces (in a place where I’m not actually putting a hole in the body exposing the outside) in the back wheel well inside of the cavity where the stock sub normally is, and then mounted the other corner of the sub on the grounding bolt that I used to ground the amplifier. Seems to hold pretty well. Will likely check on it in a month to make sure it’s solid.
Jducer. I am in Orlando also. I just installed the Hansshow DIY New Version and it's working. Do you have pictures of the wire harness to confirm which gray and brown wire you tapped for signal. I am thinking of putting a simple low profile under seat powered sub from Kicker.
 
Apologies if this has been asked before; I've not yet caught up on the whole thread., I'm reading rumours in comments about these being 'disbaled' by Tesla when discovered, but I'm not really sure how they could? It's just analogue speaker wiring? I'm looking at options to upgrade the audio in my new 2023 RWD as it's shockingly poor and rattly compared to the LR I had previously.

I'm going to deaden the doors at least, but I'm currently torn between a Focal speaker upgrade kit and/or a hanshow loom kit so I can add a sub. I like the look of the version A, but I do not need the rear surrounds, as my car does not have the vents for them.
 
My personal experience has been positive. I took delivery in August and have done every single update. Installed the harness to activate the additional 4 speakers, and have not had a problem. Also added a low profile 10” sub in the back where the stock sub normally is on the premium interior. Have not had any issues or errors. I will say, though, that my sub is only 200 W RMS, just wanted something that made the whole system more musical. If you go larger, you do run the risk of current draw errors.
 
My personal experience has been positive. I took delivery in August and have done every single update. Installed the harness to activate the additional 4 speakers, and have not had a problem. Also added a low profile 10” sub in the back where the stock sub normally is on the premium interior. Have not had any issues or errors. I will say, though, that my sub is only 200 W RMS, just wanted something that made the whole system more musical. If you go larger, you do run the risk of current draw errors.
Thanks for that. I'm not after crazy bass with some huge 12" sub enclosure; just want better quality with more of the sound range covered. I'm currently leaning towards to the focul kits, video below. Just not sure how I could implement a sub into that without splicing cables