So mixed results here. I had a 2022 Tesla Model 3 RWD, and I actually had owned the Hansshow Ryzen New Version and the Old Version and also the EV Offer harness. All three would suffer from the same right tweeter cutting in and out on bumps and also the door tweeter sounding muffled. I sold the 2022 and just took delivery of a 2023, and on the first try with the same Hansshow DIY New Version, my speakers were all working. I went ahead and also added a sub to my lower sub trunk, Kicker HST10 to be exact, and as of right now I am enjoying the back to premium experience. I will add also that I tried selling one of the EV offer harness to a kid and I offerred to do the install for him. It was also the same exact 2023, and he too had the issue that my 2022 had with muffled door speaker. It looks like there is not rhyme or reason for these harness to work, but surely an update will not kill the harness if it's not the DSP version.
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Hansshow premium audio upgrade for 2023 M3SR
- Thread starter hendo42
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- hansshow premium audio
planehazza
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Interesting, thanks. I've decided I'm not fussed about the harness to renable the 'dud' speakers, however I really want more bass to fill the range in a bit better.
How did you wire the sub please? Power (as long as it's not too hungry) looks easy enough, but where and how did you tap in for signal please?
Here is my experience with the speaker activation harness (I used EVOffer's as Hansshow's harness seems to be discontinued). It covers the sound quality with the harness that isn't as widely described as installation procedures.
I installed the harness and immediately didn't like the sound. The sound had too much highs and distortion to my ears. To understand what's going on I used REW free software (room eq wizard) and a calibrated umm-6 microphone I previously used to setup my home theater.
The measurements (see the attached .mdat files, you can unzip and open them in REW) showed that the original speakers showed very little distortion while speaker activation harness had almost 5x distortion in the range of 1kHz and higher. That was probably what I didn't like.
Distortion with EVOffer harness with 4 additional speakers:
Distortion with the original RWD speakers setup:
Activating more speakers via harness increases distortion which you might not like. More mid-range speakers and twitters wasn't better for sound quality as they were not fed from separate amplifier channels like it's done in Premium Audio package. @Andrew*Debbie nicely described the difference between the Premium speakers setup in this post.
I think RWD audio setup will benefit a lot from adding a subwoofer but I'm convinced that "speaker activation harness" makes sound worse. If I were to buy the harness again I'd choose the one with the subwoofer output to avoid tapping cat wires.
p.s. Somehow I wasn't aware that Tesla provides free access to wiring diagrams, connectors descriptions, service manual, etc. You can use your Tesla account on https://service.tesla.com/docs/Model3/Circuit_Reference/
I installed the harness and immediately didn't like the sound. The sound had too much highs and distortion to my ears. To understand what's going on I used REW free software (room eq wizard) and a calibrated umm-6 microphone I previously used to setup my home theater.
The measurements (see the attached .mdat files, you can unzip and open them in REW) showed that the original speakers showed very little distortion while speaker activation harness had almost 5x distortion in the range of 1kHz and higher. That was probably what I didn't like.
Distortion with EVOffer harness with 4 additional speakers:
Distortion with the original RWD speakers setup:
Activating more speakers via harness increases distortion which you might not like. More mid-range speakers and twitters wasn't better for sound quality as they were not fed from separate amplifier channels like it's done in Premium Audio package. @Andrew*Debbie nicely described the difference between the Premium speakers setup in this post.
I think RWD audio setup will benefit a lot from adding a subwoofer but I'm convinced that "speaker activation harness" makes sound worse. If I were to buy the harness again I'd choose the one with the subwoofer output to avoid tapping cat wires.
p.s. Somehow I wasn't aware that Tesla provides free access to wiring diagrams, connectors descriptions, service manual, etc. You can use your Tesla account on https://service.tesla.com/docs/Model3/Circuit_Reference/
Would anybody be able to confirm that the Hansshow DIY New Version 2022 AMD harness will also work for the 2023 Model 3 SR RWD? I think this is what I am reading other 2023 owners are using, I just want to confirm. I checked with Hansshow, and they say it will not work, but I wonder if that is just due to the reports of the harness affecting the navigation sound. I'll go without navigation sound if it means I can get decent sounding tunes.
I am not happy with the current sound in my car. My thoughts are to start with the harness. If I am not satisfied (I probably won't be), then I will add a DSP, mixing the existing signals and using the Hansshow harness to send output to each speaker. Likely I will replace at least the front door speakers and tweeters, and add an efficient amp and sub. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the DSP.
I am not happy with the current sound in my car. My thoughts are to start with the harness. If I am not satisfied (I probably won't be), then I will add a DSP, mixing the existing signals and using the Hansshow harness to send output to each speaker. Likely I will replace at least the front door speakers and tweeters, and add an efficient amp and sub. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the DSP.
Mine was build in December 2023. I ordered the Hansshow harness, so I'll report back in a couple of weeks for anyone else curious.
Hey very interesting results. I actually installed the harness last week and immediately came to the forms here because it immediately sounds like hissing to me on the high ranges. I’m torn because I like the additional speaker but feel like the audio quality is worst. Do you think messing with the eq will help fix it or is it a lost cause and I should just remove the harness.
I've been very busy at the day job, but I do have this on the radar, one day.
MATCH PP-TES 1.7B it's plug and play with the Match Up 10DSP MATCH UP 10DSP
I'd probably modify the DSP end and use the Helix V Twelve DSP MK2
HELIX V TWELVE DSP MK2
HELIX V TWELVE DSP MK2 - 12-Kanal Class GD Verstärker mit 14-Kanal DSP Signalprozessor | 12 x 75 Watt @ 4 Ω | 12 x 120 Watt @ 2 Ω
www.audiotec-fischer.de
That looks like it would be a sweet setup, but waaaaay outside of what I'm interested in spending. Love the car, but I miss the days when I could just swap out the head unit.I've been very busy at the day job, but I do have this on the radar, one day.
MATCH PP-TES 1.7B it's plug and play with the Match Up 10DSP MATCH UP 10DSP
I'd probably modify the DSP end and use the Helix V Twelve DSP MK2
HELIX V TWELVE DSP MK2
HELIX V TWELVE DSP MK2 - 12-Kanal Class GD Verstärker mit 14-Kanal DSP Signalprozessor | 12 x 75 Watt @ 4 Ω | 12 x 120 Watt @ 2 Ω
I did step 1 today, put 2 Infinity 4032s in the dash. I didn't do the center because I didn't understand how that works when I ordered. Today I read that it likely takes sounds that are the same in both R/L channels and plays them through the center. The new speakers are an improvement, adds the missing highs and some midrange that I felt was missing between the door and dash speakers. Most of all, they are way less harsh sounding than the paper cones. The center sounded louder than the L/R, though, probably because it is a 3ohm vs the replacement L/R are 4ohm, and of course still sounded harsh. Before I put the dash back together I taped over the underside of the center grill with 2 layers of harness wrap. I think that muted the harshness of the stock center so more of the sound is coming from the Infinitys. Initially, I do think I've got a better soundstage now, it doesn't sound like the music is coming from any specific speaker.
I've got the "activation" harness ordered, so hopefully it doesn't take anything away from the Infinitys. Honestly, with the addition of those coaxial tweeters in the dash now I don't know that the mirror tweeters are needed. I'll give it a shot. Still can't decide if I want to swap out the door speakers or not. They do have some decent bass, and if I downsize to a 6.5" I'll probably need to add an sub.
I haven't received my harness yet. Ordered on the 20th, no idea when I should expect it. What year is your car?
The harness should definitely add some high frequencies, since there isn't a single tweeter in the system otherwise. Where do you hear the hissing, is it along with the music? Or something in the background?
I have Infinity dash speakers and Focal door woofers and Hansshow tweeter activation using stock tweeters. Would you consider removing/cutting out the tweeters from the dash speakers even though I'm using the stock tweeters?I've been very busy at the day job, but I do have this on the radar, one day.
MATCH PP-TES 1.7B it's plug and play with the Match Up 10DSP MATCH UP 10DSP
I'd probably modify the DSP end and use the Helix V Twelve DSP MK2
HELIX V TWELVE DSP MK2
HELIX V TWELVE DSP MK2 - 12-Kanal Class GD Verstärker mit 14-Kanal DSP Signalprozessor | 12 x 75 Watt @ 4 Ω | 12 x 120 Watt @ 2 Ω
I know you did, but I believe you are using the Focal tweeters.
To a certain extent it’s up to your taste, but that’s a lot of tweeter up front, you could always disconnect the factory tweeters, the ones on the infinity are probably better anyway, and disconnecting the factory tweeters would be much easier if you have the infinitys installed already.
I ordered that harness a year ago and installed it on my M3 RWD. I think I posted some pictures in one of the install threads. It was only $60. It did improve the sound quality but it was not a huge difference. It may be about a $60 difference. Lately I've been listening to a lot of Podcasts so that is not very challenging sound. I think it was worth $60 but may not do it again. You can't expect miracles for $60. I was hoping Tesla would either turn on those speakers as a free upgrade, or I'd probably pay $100 to get them activated. But this is not an option. The install of the harness is pretty invasive. I have no plans to remove it. It has not caused any issues with my car as far as I can tell.
I'll admit I'm hijacking the thread a bit and going off topic, but thought people might be interested in chiming in. A quick aside, I ordered the Hansshow harness on January 20th and it is still marked as "unfulfilled". Wish I had just chanced one on Amazon, at least I could have returned it if it wasn't as promised.
When I DO get a harness I will be wiring up an 8 channel DSP amplifier. I haven't decided how to wire it yet, I'd appreciate any thoughts. Here are some scenarios I've considered:
A:
1,2 = L/R dash
3,4 = tweeters and a-pillar
5,6 = front woofers
7,8 = back doors
Then I'd need to tap a signal either before or after the DSP for my sub.
B:
1,2 = L/R dash
3,4 = tweeters and a-pillar
5,6 = front woofers
Leave rear doors on the stock amp
7 = center dash
8 = subwoofer signal
C:
1,2 = L/R dash
3,4 = front woofers + tweeters with passive crossover (not ideal for time delay adjustment)
5,6 = rear doors
7 = center dash
8 = subwoofer signal
When I DO get a harness I will be wiring up an 8 channel DSP amplifier. I haven't decided how to wire it yet, I'd appreciate any thoughts. Here are some scenarios I've considered:
A:
1,2 = L/R dash
3,4 = tweeters and a-pillar
5,6 = front woofers
7,8 = back doors
Then I'd need to tap a signal either before or after the DSP for my sub.
B:
1,2 = L/R dash
3,4 = tweeters and a-pillar
5,6 = front woofers
Leave rear doors on the stock amp
7 = center dash
8 = subwoofer signal
C:
1,2 = L/R dash
3,4 = front woofers + tweeters with passive crossover (not ideal for time delay adjustment)
5,6 = rear doors
7 = center dash
8 = subwoofer signal
I'd probably go with option B, you could always time align everything else based on leaving the rears unchanged. I'm not sure if you would miss much concerning EQ if you left the rear door speakers stock.
The next concern is the tweeters with the pillars, (the tweeters being critical to the overall sound) you'd have to cross over the pillars at the same frequency and time align/eq them the same, I'd probably skip the pillars completely.
Option C has issues because the crossover that would likely come with the door woofer/tweeter, I assume Focal ISU200 or similar, is meant as a 2 way, you are creating a 3 way with the dash mids meaning you would have uncontrolled overlap woofer to mid, and maybe mid to tweeter depending on the crossover frequencies.
Assuming you are keeping the Infinity 4032's in the L/R dash, maybe use a variation of B using the 4032's tweeters vs the door tweeters as you can time align and EQ them well enough with the mids and use the extra two channels for the pillar speakers instead.
Sometimes it just takes trial and error, but I'd say a variation of B would make a solid starting point.
The more I thought about it, I settled on B as well. I hadn't considered time alignment of the rears, but maybe it doesn't make much of a difference with the soundstage.
I also figured maybe skip the A-pillars since they are just more midrange. I can always just EQ the highs out of the dash, nice thing is if I wire it as option B I can play with it and see what I like best. If I don't end up needing the mirror tweeters I could always rewire that channel to the rear doors.
I did some harness probing today, and found it isn't going to be as easy as I thought just hacking into an aftermarket harness. There are two harness ends on the MCU that have speaker signals. The Hansshow harness uses the black clip, and what I've seen on Amazon uses the white clip. I may just hack up the factory wiring (*gulp*). Or, start with an Amazon harness and hack up just the wires on the black clip.
For anyone else considering a DSP, or needing the late 2023 speaker wire diagram, here is what I was able to come up with between probing and the Tesla wiring diagrams. Colors on the Tesla diagrams don't match what is in my car. I'm 99% positive the X171 clip is correct, but a little less sure on the X175. Test for yourself to confirm before doing anything permanent. Hopefully I'll be able to edit this if I find something different.
| X171 | White | X175 | Black | |||||
| C Dash N | 1 Green | 16 Black | Ground | 1 Tan | 14 Blue | R Dash P | ||
| C Dash P | 2 Red | X | 2 Dk Or | 13 White | R Dash N | |||
| L F Door P | 3 White | X | Ped Warn N | 3 Brown | 12 Yel/Blue | Radio | ||
| LF Door N | 4 Red | X | Ped Warn P | 4 Black | 11 Yellow | Radio | ||
| R F Door N | 5 Red | X | 5 Yellow | 10 Red | L Dash N | |||
| R F Door P | 6 Grey | X | 6 Grey | 9 Black | L Dash P | |||
| R Rear P | 7 Blue | X | L Rear P | 7 Purple | X | |||
| R Rear N | 8 Green | 9 Black | Ground | L Rear N | 8 Yellow | X |
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