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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install
- Thread starter dendenyc
- Start date
apchoo
Member
Apologies ... my confusion regarding the trunk lights was because I'm a noob
.This is the CANBUS OBD cable.
CANBUS-to-control box cable.
The CANBUS OBD cable has 2 small sockets, however, CANBUS-to-control box cable has only one plug (which fits into either socket). I assume one of the sockets isn't used. There are no V4 installation guide on the Hansshow web site. The only references I have are 3 tiny photos on the printed IG included in the box. They show where the CAN/OBD plug goes (bottom of centre console in front of the back seat), and another photo (Trunk wiring diagram 03) shows how to run the CANBUS cable to the controller box. I'm hesitant to post scans of these photos in case I violate Hansshow's copyright. I reckon the cable would go behind the right rear door's bottom trim and beneath the rear floor mat to the OBD port in the centre console.
Another confusing thing for me are these 2 sets of 5 bare wires. The first set is connected to the main harness.
The 2nd set is connected to the Motor Plug and Handle Plug.
I think these two sets of bare wires are meant to be connected together using electrical tape
. I suspect the Motor & Handle plugs are separated from the main harness because the cable needs to be threaded thru the rubber tubing together with the tailgate button cable. For those who's received the V4 kit, Step 17 (Trunk wiring diagram 01) and Step 18 (Trunk wiring diagram 02) show the the Motor & Handle plugs connected to plugs behind the trunk interior panel. They seem to replace the V3 Tailgate Signal plug that's plugged to the port at the rear deck (see Step 15 of the V3 IG).I've also used a metal pick to detach the tailgate button plug from the wires.
The Hansshow provided fish tape should hopefully make it easy to thread the tailgate button+motor plug+handle plug wires thru the rubber tubing.
My V4 kit includes the foot sensor. According to the Hansshow foot sensor IG, you can install it outside (yuk!) or inside. That's next on my research list before I actually take the plunge and do the whole install.
Oh yes ... only after working out what tools and/or parts I need to make the job easier.
Anyone who's done a V4 power tailgate install, please comment if any of my observations above are incorrect.
Apologies ... my confusion regarding the trunk lights was because I'm a noob
This is the CANBUS OBD cable.
View attachment 552449
CANBUS-to-control box cable.
View attachment 552454
The CANBUS OBD cable has 2 small sockets, however, CANBUS-to-control box cable has only one plug (which fits into either socket). I assume one of the sockets isn't used. There are no V4 installation guide on the Hansshow web site. The only references I have are 3 tiny photos on the printed IG included in the box. They show where the CAN/OBD plug goes (bottom of centre console in front of the back seat), and another photo (Trunk wiring diagram 03) shows how to run the CANBUS cable to the controller box. I'm hesitant to post scans of these photos in case I violate Hansshow's copyright. I reckon the cable would go behind the right rear door's bottom trim and beneath the rear floor mat to the OBD port in the centre console.
Another confusing thing for me are these 2 sets of 5 bare wires. The first set is connected to the main harness.
View attachment 552451
The 2nd set is connected to the Motor Plug and Handle Plug.
View attachment 552453
I think these two sets of bare wires are meant to be connected together using electrical tape
I've also used a metal pick to detach the tailgate button plug from the wires.
View attachment 552486
The Hansshow provided fish tape should hopefully make it easy to thread the tailgate button+motor plug+handle plug wires thru the rubber tubing.
My V4 kit includes the foot sensor. According to the Hansshow foot sensor IG, you can install it outside (yuk!) or inside. That's next on my research list before I actually take the plunge and do the whole install.
Oh yes ... only after working out what tools and/or parts I need to make the job easier.
Anyone who's done a V4 power tailgate install, please comment if any of my observations above are incorrect.
Looks very similar to latest V3 the one I have, cept the canbus cable don't have that.
The 2 set you are wondering about yes you need to fish the wire up to the tube. Once you got that (hopefully you're not gonna just electric tape it) youd want to either solder it or crimp it for solid connection.
Foot sensor you'd have to drop the bumper. You would most likely do that anyways when routing those struts wires.
Good luck on your install.
Just got the kit myself few weeks back. I not sure what the canbus cables add to functionality...but they mention this one is safer?... Are they saying the old ones aren't safe? Lol
apchoo
Member
William (@Hansshow) sent me a V4 installation guide PDF via WhatsApp. He said they'll release a new V4 installation video tomorrow night on their youtube channel
That’s excellent news!
Based on the info about the v4 upgrade, I suspect that the CAN bus connector isn't actually required as the upgrade comes with the CAN bus and OBD connection. There's nothing about a new control unit, so the CAN bus port must already be on existing kits. I'm going to thread the CAN bus cable through, but not connect it. That means I can reassemble the boot & seats and see if it all functions correctly. If it does then great, I'll just stick the CAN bus connector to a bit of trim and leave it. If not, then I can plug it in. I'm happy with piggy backing off existing connections, but given Hansshow's previous opposition to using a CAN bus connection I'd prefer not to if I don't have to!
Tesla Model 3 Power Frunk V3 Power Trunk V4 Upgrade Kit | Hansshow
Tesla Model 3 Power Frunk V3 Power Trunk V4 Upgrade Kit | Hansshow
StarHunter
Member
Anyone knows the easiest way to identify the version of the kit? I got both the frunk and trunk back in April but have not had a chance to install them...I think I have the V2 Frunk and the V3 Trunk but just want to be sure.
Also a few questions:
1. Has anyone noticed potential safety issues with the V3 kit without the CAN BUS connection? I thought one of the biggest selling point of Hansshow's kit is that it does not interfere with the CAN but now they are walking in the opposite direction?
2. With the V3 kit, is it still able to wire everything up inside the trunk trim through the rubber tube instead of ripping interior of the car up?
3. To those that had there 12 V power cable wired in the passenger side foot well, any problems so far? I hate to drill through the firewall to connect to the battery if I don't have to but it seems like pretty much everyone on Youtube chose that route...
Thanks!!
Also a few questions:
1. Has anyone noticed potential safety issues with the V3 kit without the CAN BUS connection? I thought one of the biggest selling point of Hansshow's kit is that it does not interfere with the CAN but now they are walking in the opposite direction?
2. With the V3 kit, is it still able to wire everything up inside the trunk trim through the rubber tube instead of ripping interior of the car up?
3. To those that had there 12 V power cable wired in the passenger side foot well, any problems so far? I hate to drill through the firewall to connect to the battery if I don't have to but it seems like pretty much everyone on Youtube chose that route...
Thanks!!
Anyone knows the easiest way to identify the version of the kit? I got both the frunk and trunk back in April but have not had a chance to install them...I think I have the V2 Frunk and the V3 Trunk but just want to be sure.
Also a few questions:
1. Has anyone noticed potential safety issues with the V3 kit without the CAN BUS connection? I thought one of the biggest selling point of Hansshow's kit is that it does not interfere with the CAN but now they are walking in the opposite direction?
2. With the V3 kit, is it still able to wire everything up inside the trunk trim through the rubber tube instead of ripping interior of the car up?
3. To those that had there 12 V power cable wired in the passenger side foot well, any problems so far? I hate to drill through the firewall to connect to the battery if I don't have to but it seems like pretty much everyone on Youtube chose that route...
Thanks!!
1. Tesla Offer talked about the advantage of CANBUS (and thus the disadvantage of not using it) here, including some possible security/safety issues I guess (none serious from what I thought). But CANBUS just works better as that video explains
Model 3 Electric Tailgate - Tesla Offer V2 vs Competitors
2. My understanding is that the Hansshow V3 kit requires you to get connected underneath the back seat shelf which requires removing a lot of trim. But perhaps it also offered the alternative of fishing up multiple connections into the trunk, which also seemed good to me if you're smart enough to fish with the connector plugs removed (either cut off or pins removed). Videos that show people trying to fish the cable with the plugs on top always look light a nightmare!
3. I can't directly answer this as I haven't installed, but from the research I've done (bunch of videos, PDFs) it seems that there is no need to do anything other than connect to a power point in the front footwell that is just a bit tricky to reach up under the dash - no drill through the firewall to the hood. So my expectation is to just connect to that point.
Anyone knows the easiest way to identify the version of the kit? I got both the frunk and trunk back in April but have not had a chance to install them...I think I have the V2 Frunk and the V3 Trunk but just want to be sure.
Also a few questions:
1. Has anyone noticed potential safety issues with the V3 kit without the CAN BUS connection? I thought one of the biggest selling point of Hansshow's kit is that it does not interfere with the CAN but now they are walking in the opposite direction?
2. With the V3 kit, is it still able to wire everything up inside the trunk trim through the rubber tube instead of ripping interior of the car up?
3. To those that had there 12 V power cable wired in the passenger side foot well, any problems so far? I hate to drill through the firewall to connect to the battery if I don't have to but it seems like pretty much everyone on Youtube chose that route...
Thanks!!
1. Funny that both Hansshow and their resellers used to say that connecting to the CANBUS could void your warranty and therefore stay away from the kits with a CANBUS connection. Even one of the Hansshow resellers made negative comments about the CANBUS connection on Tesla Offer's YouTube channel which is a bit of a low blow. Now Hansshow jumped on board and perhaps recognize this is a better way to go. I think Hansshow realized that since they released their HUD, which connects to the CANBUS as well, they can't really push the warranty jeopardy claim.
2. By rubber tube are you referring to the one leading to the trunk lid? If so I believe that's only for the closing button.
3. Haven't installed yet but that's one of the recommended power locations for all kit suppliers. Hopefully, it remains as constant power and doesn't get an update that makes it switched power. I'd recommend using that and if it becomes problematic, then rewire to the battery. Even if wiring to battery I don't think drilling through metal is needed - maybe poke a hole through an existing rubber grommet.
JohnNick72
Member
I got the V4 Trunk Kit, & I’ve plugged in the OBD/CAN cabling. I can’t see the it does anything differently than without. Also, not sure why the harness has two small plugs, but we only have one connection coming from the controller. Maybe it’s the same harness for Trunk + Frunk??
Anyway, can anyone speak to the advantage of using the OBD/CAN Harness and how to make it add whatever benefit it’s suppose to add? Like I said, I don’t find any difference.
Thanks,
John
Yes those wires are connected inside the trunk trim now. I believe they reversed it due to difficulty installation many people have. Now that they are pre-cut it is not difficult to fish the wire up with the provide wire. You would need some some sort of lubricant to make it easier.
You can also connect it to the rear passenger seat for 12v power. I went that route, no problem so far.
Also anyone that’s upgraded HansShow Trunk from V1 or V2 to the new CanBus V4 and can discuss the adv/differences would be greatly appreciated. Is the soft close better? Tired of the “Slam” the last 4-5 inches...especially from in the car. Frunk soft close on V1 is truly soft but the Trunk V1 never was.
Ski
I think it reduces the chance of the foot sensor trying to trigger whilst the vehicle is in motion as it can read speed, driving mode etc. That’s what Hansshow said on WhatsApp anyway!
JohnNick72
Member
Interesting... I went ahead and left it plugged in. It’s easy enough to unplug if something starts to act strangely.
I’d also recommend using the 12v Power and Ground tap under the rear passenger seat. It’s super clean and easy to do it this way. I removed the side piece (bolster) of the seat to run the power and OBD/CAN cables fully behind. It’s a cleaner install but be careful with some of its built in clips, they are fragile.
j
No. They are competitors with different products as I posted just a few posts before yours. Here it is again: Model 3 Electric Tailgate - Tesla Offer V2 vs Competitors