apchoo
Member
Hansshow shipped my V4 power tailgate via DHL on the day I ordered. It was delivered in exactly 1 week to Melbourne, AU.
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HANSSHOW Trunk Liftgate v3 install
- Thread starter dendenyc
- Start date
Hansshow shipped my V4 power tailgate via DHL on the day I ordered. It was delivered in exactly 1 week to Melbourne, AU.
todd2fst4u
Member
I’m interested in seeing the “prompt function for tailgate not closed”. Not sure I see any value in upgrading my trunk kit (which I believe is v3). My trunk closes smoothly already and I don’t find there to be any safety issue without the CanBus plug.
Yeep true... If you don't hear your beep from after the close then it still is opened. Only value is denying the request to open when car is in motion.
In the V4 install video they show how you fish the trunk open button up the plastic tube. They show that you do it with the connector taken off, and then you connect it back once the wire is fished. This part makes sense to me.
But then right around 7m45s in the video, he says to disconnect plugs, and then he jumps to showing some wires being taped together. I don't understand where those wires come from. Do I have to cut something?
It would be awesome to get some help here thank you!
But then right around 7m45s in the video, he says to disconnect plugs, and then he jumps to showing some wires being taped together. I don't understand where those wires come from. Do I have to cut something?
It would be awesome to get some help here thank you!
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JohnNick72
Member
It didn’t show well in the video, but he pulled through 2 “strands” of wiring for the trunk plugs. One has a plug you have to take of and put back on & the other is 4 (I think) bare wires. For whatever reason the kit doesn’t include a plug for the bare wires on either side, so you see him twisting and taping (dumb!). I added some butt connectors to mine.
j
Ok thanks I partially understand. I suspected he maybe also fished up a cable with four wires and nothing on the end of them. I think you’re confirming that.
but what does he then connect those to? Where are these other wires with nothing on them, that he tapes to, coming from? Do I have to cut some of the original Tesla wires ?
thanks
JohnNick72
Member
They connect to one of the other trunk plugs provided in the kit that you attach to the existing plug. Don’t remember which, but there are 2 plugs on your trunk now that you’d unplug. Then you put the Hansshow “pass through harness” in and plug back in the Tesla cable and connect/plug the corresponding Hansshow cable.
This part makes total sense when you’re doing it, the plugs are each unique, and the cables are labeled to make it even easier.
j
Again thanks for the help. I'm still not getting it though sorry! Let me try to more carefully describe why I'm confused.
So first there is the manual trunk release cable (the one that is for the button that you drill into the plastic and install). On this one you start with the cable that needs fishing, with a connector on the end of it. You take off the connector (because it is too bulky to fish up) and then you fish up the cable. Then after it's fished up, you re-attach the connector, which in turn plugs into the trunk release button. Easy.
In addition, you also fish up another cable that has four wires and nothing on the end of it (no connectors to remove or anything). After you fish that up you will then need to connect those four wires to *SOMETHING* else that also is a cable with four wires. You can connect with simple tape as shown in the video, or you can do a better job with butt connectors or something like that.
The question is, what is this 'SOMETHING' cable? Where did it come from? It's a cable with four wires and nothing on them. The video says, right before showing this, that I have to unplug the existing stuff. Do I then have to cut off the connectors on the existing Tesla original wires (!!!!) and this then gives me the SOMETHING cable?
Sorry! Thank you!
JohnNick72
Member
The “something” cable is part of a “pass through harness” provided in the kit that ties the Hansshow controller into the existing trunk button and latch. It has identical bare wire connections to match to. You fish both cables up at the same time, unless you don’t want to put the new internal trunk button up on the trunk cover. In that case, you wouldn’t want to fish it up.
I think this is a newer solution to V3/V4 on Hansshow, but not sure. It looks like in some of the older videos, the kits had you accessing the existing external trunk button & latch controller wiring under the rear shelf/speaker panel. On the V4 (at least) there’s nothing to do under there anymore.
It’ll make sense when you have the the trunk panel off and are working through it.
Sooo, after reading much of the thread, I still have questions, hopefully you can help me.
I have watched Hansshow videos and the complete v4 installation made me dizzy.
I bought the v3 back in december and didn't installed it yet, so I am considering the v4 upgraded kit, only for the trunk.
here are my questions :
- Considering I haven't installed my v3 yet, is the v4 upgrade kit worth it ? The Can bus in center console is something I kind of like instead of going all the way to the front.
- I am considering putting the button on the side instead of on the lid garnment : is there argument not to do that ? And doing so I will not have to pass any cable through the side tube, right ?
- Are there more installation videos for v4 ?
- On Electrified Garage, he goes for the battery under the backseats, is it recommended ?
Many thanks.
I have watched Hansshow videos and the complete v4 installation made me dizzy.
I bought the v3 back in december and didn't installed it yet, so I am considering the v4 upgraded kit, only for the trunk.
here are my questions :
- Considering I haven't installed my v3 yet, is the v4 upgrade kit worth it ? The Can bus in center console is something I kind of like instead of going all the way to the front.
- I am considering putting the button on the side instead of on the lid garnment : is there argument not to do that ? And doing so I will not have to pass any cable through the side tube, right ?
- Are there more installation videos for v4 ?
- On Electrified Garage, he goes for the battery under the backseats, is it recommended ?
Many thanks.
The “something” cable is part of a “pass through harness” provided in the kit that ties the Hansshow controller into the existing trunk button and latch. It has identical bare wire connections to match to. You fish both cables up at the same time, unless you don’t want to put the new internal trunk button up on the trunk cover. In that case, you wouldn’t want to fish it up.
I think this is a newer solution to V3/V4 on Hansshow, but not sure. It looks like in some of the older videos, the kits had you accessing the existing external trunk button & latch controller wiring under the rear shelf/speaker panel. On the V4 (at least) there’s nothing to do under there anymore.
It’ll make sense when you have the the trunk panel off and are working through it.
OK I was able to talk to William on WhatsApp and eventually got to the answer to my question. I'm not sure it's what you meant, but it's quite likely that you didn't know what my question meant either
So let me try to clarify my understanding in case it's useful to anyone else, and also to ensure it matches what you mean. Again, THANK YOU!So, the video only talks about fishing one cable up. It's the trunk release one that you take the connector off before fishing it up. But if you look carefully in the video, when they actually fish upwards, there are two cables going up. That's because another cable also gets fished up - it's one with four bare wires. Both the parts that get fished up are from the main harness cable which is piece 8 in the attached image.
After you've fished up, you put the connector back on and attach that to piece 5 in the other attached image - the Trunk close button.
The 'mystery' part that I couldn't understand, was what they were the other fished cable (with 4 bare wires) to. The video is useless for showing that. But it turns out there is a part #9 that they don't even mention in the video, but which comes with the Hansshow kit. It's another piece with 4 bare wires on it, with plugs on the end. That part #9 is the mystery 'SOMETHING' that I was looking for. Since the video makes no mention of this and it just suddenly appears out of nowhere with them connecting to it, it was totally confusing.
So in summary, there are two different solutions for fishing up to the top. One cable you remove the connector from, fish it up, and put the connector back on. But the second cable (with four wires inside) has already been cut in half into parts 8 and part 9. This avoids needing to fish part 9 upwards! You fish up the cut cable end from part 8, then you tape it back together with part 9! Phew
I'm ordering tonight !!
Trying to answer your questions from easiest first:
I haven’t seen any other v4 install video yet except theirs. You could try search on YouTube, looking for latest recent videos perhaps.
I think no one wants to do the battery under the rear seats like EG because it’s actually hard to get the seats out if the way. The latest installs from all vendors, seem to prefer a slightly awkward to get to but simple point under the dashboard in the footwell.
I think it’s preferred to put the close button in the trunk lid because it’s more natural up there, but it’s also safer as it cannot be accidentally triggered by something inside the trunk pressing it.
also it seems that the new V4 *requires* fishing up into the trunk lid (see my other posts for more info) anyway, so why not fish the trunk close lid up there too? Overall I think the fishing is much easier now with the connector removal and therefore just simple slim wires to fish.
finally you seem to think canbus is instead of going to the front trunk area. Actually I think that the new canbus connection has two benefits but not that. I think benefit one is that you don’t have to remove a ton of awkward trim behind the rear seats, to get to a really tough connector, like older installs did. Secondly I think it has some increased safety features like knowing not to drive when trunk is open
hope this helps!
StarHunter
Member
OK I was able to talk to William on WhatsApp and eventually got to the answer to my question. I'm not sure it's what you meant, but it's quite likely that you didn't know what my question meant either
So, the video only talks about fishing one cable up. It's the trunk release one that you take the connector off before fishing it up. But if you look carefully in the video, when they actually fish upwards, there are two cables going up. That's because another cable also gets fished up - it's one with four bare wires. Both the parts that get fished up are from the main harness cable which is piece 8 in the attached image.
After you've fished up, you put the connector back on and attach that to piece 5 in the other attached image - the Trunk close button.
The 'mystery' part that I couldn't understand, was what they were the other fished cable (with 4 bare wires) to. The video is useless for showing that. But it turns out there is a part #9 that they don't even mention in the video, but which comes with the Hansshow kit. It's another piece with 4 bare wires on it, with plugs on the end. That part #9 is the mystery 'SOMETHING' that I was looking for. Since the video makes no mention of this and it just suddenly appears out of nowhere with them connecting to it, it was totally confusing.
So in summary, there are two different solutions for fishing up to the top. One cable you remove the connector from, fish it up, and put the connector back on. But the second cable (with four wires inside) has already been cut in half into parts 8 and part 9. This avoids needing to fish part 9 upwards! You fish up the cut cable end from part 8, then you tape it back together with part 9! Phew
I'm ordering tonight !!
Wow, this is super useful info! This explains why Hansshow said that the V4 upgrade kit comes with the "fish wire" version. I received my V3 earlier in April but that only comes with the ones that you need to take lots of interior trim off to access the signal cable which I was not keen on (don't want to create more rattles...) So I requested the cables that I can fish up to the trunk lid area. On WhatsApp they kept telling me get the V4 kit and they will include the "fish wire" version..I was thinking it was probably a sales move but now it seems like the V4 comes with "fish wire" version by default...Any how...ordered a week ago and still have not received any tracking...patiently waiting...
JohnNick72
Member
It’s ridiculously simple to get the rear seat base out and use the 12v connection right there. I did it and suggested it 3-4 times in this very thread. Literally takes 2 minutes or less.
Once you’ve done the install you’ll see nothing is “hard” but some parts are a PITA. Be patient and it’s a very doable for almost anyone.
j
So I checked on my Model 3 2020 (oct 2019 build) and I have too this hitch trap underneath the rear bumper.
So I will combine this french installer tip with the strut cable and Electrified Garage one with the backseat battery tip so no cable are going to the front.
I ordered upgrade kit v4 from hansshow.
So I will combine this french installer tip with the strut cable and Electrified Garage one with the backseat battery tip so no cable are going to the front.
I ordered upgrade kit v4 from hansshow.
Did you understand what he did in the video? At 19:38 I saw he is managing to squeeze the cable and connectors from the strut/outside, down into the car. I think he's threading it into the space behind the bumper, but not actually inside into the car. Is that right? And if so, how does he then get to the point where he is taping and fishing? I think he is taping and fishing from that area behind the bumper, through the holes and blue grommets?
Also how does the 'hitch trap' come into play here? I guess you mean that plastic door that he shows on the underside of the car?
Thanks!
It looks like the left strut cable was pushed through between bumper cover and body all the way down to the hitch cover area. From there the video is confusing but what would work is to push your fish wire through the blue grommet hole also down to the hitch cover area. From there, tape the strut cable to the fish wire and pull the fish wire back through the hole and that will get the strut cable to the inside of the car. At that point put the blue grommet back in place (after punching hole for the cable to go through it) and if you're fussy add a bit of silicone where the cable comes through the grommet.
This is less work than what I did (remove bumper) since my car does not have the hitch cover. The only flaw I see doing it this way is if you happen to put you fish wire through a space that is smaller than the plastic connectors, you won't be able to pull the cable back through. It may require a couple tries alternating different pathways for the fish wire down to the hitch cover area.