Don't let initial purchase price be your sole motivating factor. Read through TMC about experiences for both and you will see a clear difference in reliability and post-sales support. Yes, there are people that have had problem free kits from both companies but the probability of having a problem free kit is clearly better for one of the two brands.
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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Thank you for your advice, I've asked advice from TMC for which brand is better because there are several brand on the market look like similar, made in china , maybe they are using same parts and/or control board , most important thing is post-sales and warranty, Amazon now has very good return policy (now until Jan 31) and their sellers have good post sales support.
There are two main brands. The other decision making factor is that you have to take YouTube reviews with a grain of salt as many of them are not true reviews but really infomercials by YouTubers who receive free product and/or commissions from sales. In summary, be cautious of advice from those who have an economic interest in one brand vs another. The best reviews come from consumers sharing personal experiences who have nothing to gain and especially those who have tried both brands to provide direct hands-on comparitive feedback.
Thank you for your advice, I think you have purchased / installed it , what brand was it and are you happy it?
@ilhan, please read the very first post in this thread. After extensive research I bought the EVOffer (formerly TeslaOffer) but I have installed both kits. Also, I suggest you do a search for each company separately followed by the words problem or issue.
This morning I’ve noticed that my EVOffer auto frunk no longer pulls it into position once it makes contact with the latch, it just beeps immediately.
Typically this happened when I was demoing it to two Tesla engineers who are here to do the trunk harness recall work (which they can’t do fully because of the aftermarket wiring for the trunk kit)
I assume this is probably a failed frunk cinch motor? Is there any way of debugging this? I barely ever use my frunk so I’m surprised it has failed to be honest.
Typically this happened when I was demoing it to two Tesla engineers who are here to do the trunk harness recall work (which they can’t do fully because of the aftermarket wiring for the trunk kit)
I assume this is probably a failed frunk cinch motor? Is there any way of debugging this? I barely ever use my frunk so I’m surprised it has failed to be honest.
We just finished installing the Hansshow Power Frunk for our 2022 Model X Plaid. It was an ordeal and the instruction video doesn't have all the details. The actuator actually sort of frayed in the process of trying to get it to work. To Hansshow's credit, however, they sent a new actuator and latch free or charge to me and gave me clear instructions on how to troubleshoot the installation.
In the end I now have a power frunk that is so worth the price. It immediately makes the large frunk in the X so much more useful.
I highly recommend Hansshow's power frunk having now used it in my Model Y and Model X and my dad has it in his Model 3. Really excellent product and customer support. If anyone needs help with installation send me a message and I can see if I can help.
In the end I now have a power frunk that is so worth the price. It immediately makes the large frunk in the X so much more useful.
I highly recommend Hansshow's power frunk having now used it in my Model Y and Model X and my dad has it in his Model 3. Really excellent product and customer support. If anyone needs help with installation send me a message and I can see if I can help.
Not sure how much installation varies from model x to model 3/y, but I'll say in my case the power trunk was a nightmare compared to the frunk kit installation.
Yeah all of the Hansshow power frunks are not exactly easy to install but definitely anyone can do it as long as you have a decent set of screwdrivers and socket wrenches and at least half a day to commit to installation.
I'm saying the payoff at the end is worth the trouble up front and the support people are helpful at Hansshow if you are patient. I have no affiliation to them but I think they make useful products. It is absolutely bizarre that even in 2022 Tesla doesn't have an automatic frunk for all of their cars when even competitors have caught up. Why make automatic doors in the Model X but still have a manual frunk?
Power frunks are fantastic but Hansshow is not the only company selling them. EVOffer is a better option which you can read about through this thread.
I've interacted with both companies. TeslaOffer (now EVOffer) is by far better in terms of post-sales support. In my experience, Hansshow is only helpful to the point it doesn't cost them any money. My most recent purchase from Hansshow a couple months ago was very unproductive when it was determined the remedy was a replacement. They wanted me to glue together a poorly put-together item and then only agreed to give me a refund if I shipped the item back to China which freight cost more than the item. I let them know the freight cost and was given a take-it-or-leave-it option. Of course it made no sense to ship it back when it was cheaper to buy a replacement. Subsequently I find out they have a presence in California but they never offered me the option of shipping within the continent.
Is the latch motor making any sound at the point it normally is supposed to pull down your frunk? If not, could be a faulty latch motor and if within the warranty period they might be able to replace it. If outside of warranty, they do sell replacement latch motors. The other problem could be the latch cable breaking (typically where the wire cable attaches to the metal ball).
As for the trunk recall you are right that Tesla doesn't want to touch the wiring for the trunk kit. It's not easy for the technician to remove the aftermarket trunk wiring harness and reinstall it. The only solution is to have a mobile ranger come to your house to do the recall and pull out the power trunk harness before they get there and leave the trunk open for the technician to do the recal. Then reinstall the power trunk harness yourself. I ordered a replacement power trunk wiring harness from EVOffer as it will be very likely pulling it out will ruin it. A new harness from EVOffer is $10 but shipping is a bit high. I suppose if you are super careful the power trunk harness can be re-used but I didn't want to chance it so ordering a replacement is probably the safest bet.
All that being said, your local mobile ranger has to be cooperative with all this. My local guy was about to do my recall and I told him about the power trunk harness so he agreed that it can be done with the approach I outlined above. I'm guessing this will be inconsistent between mobile rangers.
Shipping to Canada is even more however I just compared with Hansshow "Free" shipping but out-the-door price is lower at EVOffer. From what I see at time of writing this, EVOffer is actually less when comparing shipped price for a Model 3 frunk kit and they have a better reputation for service.
I guess there is really no such thing as "free" shipping; it's either buried in the price or separate.
markcm
Member
Just finished installing the EVoffer power trunk on my 2018 M3P. Thanks to tlr1000 and others who posted tips. Thought I would add a few of my own.
v3 kit
- no buzzer, its in the ecu
- the plug connectors are not the color on the videos anymore - connect them up first prior to starting this install to get a feel for which wire is what. its self explanatory and the connectors only fit one way
Installation notes:
- fishing the wire to the trunk lid is easy, took me 10 minutes. I think the key is using lots of wire pull lube. I basically squeezed a load of it from the bottle directly into the top of the tube. I followed the ev offer video, unhooking the tube from the zip straps I think helps a lot.
- getting the strut wires into the trunk is much harder. I used the plugs on the back of the trunk area, pictured in tlr.'s post at the start of this thread, but I did it without removing the bumper (I didn't want the foot sensor)
- I used the method shown in the official ev offer install video with the wire pull tool
- on the driver side, the hole is smaller and I struggled to get both connectors through the whole. I ended up cutting off the larger plug and used crimp connectors to re-attach it. works fine, adds a couple of minutes and wish I would have just done this straight away instead of wasting time trying to get it through
- the passenger side is easier as the hole is bigger, both connectors can make it through no issues
- I cut the plugs to accommodate the wires, but am going to go back and seal it with body sealant of some sort given I live in a rainy climate
- I used VC right for power. this is easy, one tip is to bend the u shaped connector right between the crimp and the start of the u so it's easier to get behind the nut. undo the nut as little as possible so there is friction when you tighten it back down so it doesn't slip out. This took me about 10 minutes
- For ground, I used a body mount for one of the subwoofer brackets that is close to the tail light so I could mount the ecu with double side tape to the back body of the car just under the sub bracket. reason for this is the ground wire is connected to the power wire and there is not a lot of slack, so the ground needs to be close to where you intend to mount the ecu
hope somebody finds this helpful. If anybody in the seattle/bellevue area needs a wire puller and basically an almost full bottle of Klein wire pull lube, let me know, free. pickup in Dt bellevue.
v3 kit
- no buzzer, its in the ecu
- the plug connectors are not the color on the videos anymore - connect them up first prior to starting this install to get a feel for which wire is what. its self explanatory and the connectors only fit one way
Installation notes:
- fishing the wire to the trunk lid is easy, took me 10 minutes. I think the key is using lots of wire pull lube. I basically squeezed a load of it from the bottle directly into the top of the tube. I followed the ev offer video, unhooking the tube from the zip straps I think helps a lot.
- getting the strut wires into the trunk is much harder. I used the plugs on the back of the trunk area, pictured in tlr.'s post at the start of this thread, but I did it without removing the bumper (I didn't want the foot sensor)
- I used the method shown in the official ev offer install video with the wire pull tool
- on the driver side, the hole is smaller and I struggled to get both connectors through the whole. I ended up cutting off the larger plug and used crimp connectors to re-attach it. works fine, adds a couple of minutes and wish I would have just done this straight away instead of wasting time trying to get it through
- the passenger side is easier as the hole is bigger, both connectors can make it through no issues
- I cut the plugs to accommodate the wires, but am going to go back and seal it with body sealant of some sort given I live in a rainy climate
- I used VC right for power. this is easy, one tip is to bend the u shaped connector right between the crimp and the start of the u so it's easier to get behind the nut. undo the nut as little as possible so there is friction when you tighten it back down so it doesn't slip out. This took me about 10 minutes
- For ground, I used a body mount for one of the subwoofer brackets that is close to the tail light so I could mount the ecu with double side tape to the back body of the car just under the sub bracket. reason for this is the ground wire is connected to the power wire and there is not a lot of slack, so the ground needs to be close to where you intend to mount the ecu
hope somebody finds this helpful. If anybody in the seattle/bellevue area needs a wire puller and basically an almost full bottle of Klein wire pull lube, let me know, free. pickup in Dt bellevue.
I've now had what I believe to be a second cinch motor fail on me on my 2 year old TeslaOffer (EVOffer) power frunk kit.
I barely if ever use my frunk, I've probably used it a total of 10 times since fitting it, so I'm really puzzled as to why this keeps happening. The first time it happened was at the end of October last year. The symptoms are obvious - the frunk closes but doesn't get pulled shut, and the ECU just beeps as soon as the hood makes contact with the latching mechanism.
I got a replacement cinch motor from EVOffer and fitted it at the start of January, so if it has failed again it will have lasted less than a year.
The only thing I can think of is that I can see that moisture gets into the frunk generally (it's not a completely sealed thing) so perhaps the cinch motor is getting wet and then an internal PCB or something is failing? The last time I replaced it the faulty one wasn't damp, or anything like that.
The other thing - that I have pointed out to EVOffer previously, which they have described as being something they're aware of happening in isolated cases, with no remedy - is that often when I unlock my car I will hear a beep from the frunk ECU, as it would if I were trying to open the frunk, only it doesn't open of course because it's not been commanded to open (and therefore not unlatched). I wonder if it's briefly trying to open it despite that, and burning itself out slowly over time because of this?
Losing faith in this product, and worried now about how much longer my trunk cinch motor is going to last based on the reliability of these things generally.
I barely if ever use my frunk, I've probably used it a total of 10 times since fitting it, so I'm really puzzled as to why this keeps happening. The first time it happened was at the end of October last year. The symptoms are obvious - the frunk closes but doesn't get pulled shut, and the ECU just beeps as soon as the hood makes contact with the latching mechanism.
I got a replacement cinch motor from EVOffer and fitted it at the start of January, so if it has failed again it will have lasted less than a year.
The only thing I can think of is that I can see that moisture gets into the frunk generally (it's not a completely sealed thing) so perhaps the cinch motor is getting wet and then an internal PCB or something is failing? The last time I replaced it the faulty one wasn't damp, or anything like that.
The other thing - that I have pointed out to EVOffer previously, which they have described as being something they're aware of happening in isolated cases, with no remedy - is that often when I unlock my car I will hear a beep from the frunk ECU, as it would if I were trying to open the frunk, only it doesn't open of course because it's not been commanded to open (and therefore not unlatched). I wonder if it's briefly trying to open it despite that, and burning itself out slowly over time because of this?
Losing faith in this product, and worried now about how much longer my trunk cinch motor is going to last based on the reliability of these things generally.
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@Durzel, sorry to hear about your troubles. My frunk gets used quite a bit and so far, knock on wood, no issues at all. I dread the day something happens. I'm glad that at some point they were willing to give you a replacement part. Although I live in a city with a significant amount of rain, I do park my car in an enclosed garage so maybe that helps with longevity of my kit.
Going to call it a day with my EVOffer auto frunk kit to be honest, and look to remove it ASAP.
I've already listed my issues above - but the straw that broke the camel's back today was getting a notification from my car that my 12v battery needs replacing. This is the second 12v replacement I've had, on a March 2020 car, the first one failing and being replaced in November of last year. Thankfully Tesla appear to be replacing it again for free under warranty, but that might change when they see the auto frunk kit wired to the 12v per instructions.
The issue I think is not so much the kits, but rather that I barely drive my car - I've done 6300 miles in 3 1/2 years. Most of the time it is waking up, therefore, is to maintain the 12v, so there must be quite a few discharge cycles going on. When you drive the car, or its awake, the HV is maintaining the 12v anyway so it's less of an issue. Essentially the parasitic drain from the auto trunk and frunk, whilst low, is giving me premature 12v failures. I have no other electrical mods installed so its an simple conclusion to reach.
I'm also a bit disillusioned to be on my third cinch motor on the frunk kit - this one I had to pay $70 for. It was delivered a couple of weeks ago but it's just been sat there because I can't bring myself to go through the trouble of swapping the defective one out when there's every chance this one will fail prematurely as well.
As mentioned I also barely ever use the frunk - I've probably used it in earnest 3 times since I bought the car, all other times opening and closing it have been when I'm washing it. So, whilst it's a nice feature given the aggravation it's caused me I'm starting to think its not worth the hassle.
Also I''ll probably be looking at a Highland M3P if/when it happens, so seems logical to start to think about removing mods.
I've already listed my issues above - but the straw that broke the camel's back today was getting a notification from my car that my 12v battery needs replacing. This is the second 12v replacement I've had, on a March 2020 car, the first one failing and being replaced in November of last year. Thankfully Tesla appear to be replacing it again for free under warranty, but that might change when they see the auto frunk kit wired to the 12v per instructions.
The issue I think is not so much the kits, but rather that I barely drive my car - I've done 6300 miles in 3 1/2 years. Most of the time it is waking up, therefore, is to maintain the 12v, so there must be quite a few discharge cycles going on. When you drive the car, or its awake, the HV is maintaining the 12v anyway so it's less of an issue. Essentially the parasitic drain from the auto trunk and frunk, whilst low, is giving me premature 12v failures. I have no other electrical mods installed so its an simple conclusion to reach.
I'm also a bit disillusioned to be on my third cinch motor on the frunk kit - this one I had to pay $70 for. It was delivered a couple of weeks ago but it's just been sat there because I can't bring myself to go through the trouble of swapping the defective one out when there's every chance this one will fail prematurely as well.
As mentioned I also barely ever use the frunk - I've probably used it in earnest 3 times since I bought the car, all other times opening and closing it have been when I'm washing it. So, whilst it's a nice feature given the aggravation it's caused me I'm starting to think its not worth the hassle.
Also I''ll probably be looking at a Highland M3P if/when it happens, so seems logical to start to think about removing mods.
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