Love the tesla offer trunk kit. Mine is still going strong after 4 years. The oem retrofit kit released. Curious to see how that one performs and compares.Just finished installing the EVoffer power trunk on my 2018 M3P. Thanks to tlr1000 and others who posted tips. Thought I would add a few of my own.
v3 kit
- no buzzer, its in the ecu
- the plug connectors are not the color on the videos anymore - connect them up first prior to starting this install to get a feel for which wire is what. its self explanatory and the connectors only fit one way
Installation notes:
- fishing the wire to the trunk lid is easy, took me 10 minutes. I think the key is using lots of wire pull lube. I basically squeezed a load of it from the bottle directly into the top of the tube. I followed the ev offer video, unhooking the tube from the zip straps I think helps a lot.
- getting the strut wires into the trunk is much harder. I used the plugs on the back of the trunk area, pictured in tlr.'s post at the start of this thread, but I did it without removing the bumper (I didn't want the foot sensor)
- I used the method shown in the official ev offer install video with the wire pull tool
- on the driver side, the hole is smaller and I struggled to get both connectors through the whole. I ended up cutting off the larger plug and used crimp connectors to re-attach it. works fine, adds a couple of minutes and wish I would have just done this straight away instead of wasting time trying to get it through
- the passenger side is easier as the hole is bigger, both connectors can make it through no issues
- I cut the plugs to accommodate the wires, but am going to go back and seal it with body sealant of some sort given I live in a rainy climate
- I used VC right for power. this is easy, one tip is to bend the u shaped connector right between the crimp and the start of the u so it's easier to get behind the nut. undo the nut as little as possible so there is friction when you tighten it back down so it doesn't slip out. This took me about 10 minutes
- For ground, I used a body mount for one of the subwoofer brackets that is close to the tail light so I could mount the ecu with double side tape to the back body of the car just under the sub bracket. reason for this is the ground wire is connected to the power wire and there is not a lot of slack, so the ground needs to be close to where you intend to mount the ecu
hope somebody finds this helpful. If anybody in the seattle/bellevue area needs a wire puller and basically an almost full bottle of Klein wire pull lube, let me know, free. pickup in Dt bellevue.
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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?
- Thread starter tlr1000
- Start date
Love the tesla offer trunk kit. Mine is still going strong after 4 years. The oem retrofit kit released. Curious to see how that one performs and compares.
My car is a 2018 and I do about 6,200 miles per year - almost identical to you. I've had my EVOffer frunk kit for 3 years and I have a lot of other electrical mods like liftgate kit, front display cluster, rear screen, hard-wired radar, frunk lighting, underseat ambient lighting, and a couple more items. Still on my original battery...knock on wood. Also haven't needed to replace any parts on the frunk kit itself and I do use it quite often.
As far as the highland M3P goes, that is a great idea. So remove mods, sell them wherever possible, get the highland!
I can’t really explain why I’ve had such problems to be honest, other than the relatively wet climate here in the UK, and how little mileage I do.
Perhaps the fact you’re doing 6000 miles a year whereas I’ve only done 6300 in 3.5 years total is relevant as far as the 12v failures are concerned? Maybe you’re driving your car often enough that the 12v is being maintained organically. Also, how often do you use Sentry mode when you’re not using the car? As you know if it’s awake it’s supporting the 12v.
I posted an update on another thread about my latch motor failures, suffice as to say that they appear to be dying due to moisture ingress. I’ve been following the install instructions for the kits very carefully, but clearly need to take additional steps to protect these motors (e.g. sealing them up with silicone or putting them inside something that is watertight). Here’s my update if you’re interested: What to do when Power Frunk Completely Fails to Open?
Mileage could play a factor. I misread your previous note and thought you were doing 6300 miles annually. I live in a pretty rainy climate but my car is usually garage kept so it doesn't get overly soaked. As for Sentry mode, it's always running in my car other than when it's in my garage at home. Hope you get it figured out.
I think given my low usage of the car it means the 12v is slowly draining and then having to be topped up at whatever threshold Tesla have decided for 1-3 hours. This just repeats over and over until the periods where the car is asleep become less and less, because the 12v is getting worn out from the drain/recharge cycles. This has been fairly easy to map out because I've been running TeslaMate since I got the car.
I did think about some alternative options given my usage, but the only one I can think of would be some kind of switch that I could connect the auto frunk to, instead of directly to the battery, so that I could disable it when I wanted. This would mean routing (and extending) the power cable into the car somehow, through the bulkhead. It's a lot of effort for marginal gain.
I don't think this is a problem with the kits persay, rather my somewhat unique use case. Anyone using the car as little as I do would experience similar problems, I think. The vampire drain on the 12v battery - whilst small - is not nothing. Raymond @ EVOffer did a video saying that the kits "go to sleep" when they "detect" that the car has, although how they do that when they don't plug into the CANBUS I don't know. I'm inclined to believe that there is always some drain on the battery.
I'll probably revisit this once I can work out a solution, assuming I don't get a Highland M3P before then.
I did think about some alternative options given my usage, but the only one I can think of would be some kind of switch that I could connect the auto frunk to, instead of directly to the battery, so that I could disable it when I wanted. This would mean routing (and extending) the power cable into the car somehow, through the bulkhead. It's a lot of effort for marginal gain.
I don't think this is a problem with the kits persay, rather my somewhat unique use case. Anyone using the car as little as I do would experience similar problems, I think. The vampire drain on the 12v battery - whilst small - is not nothing. Raymond @ EVOffer did a video saying that the kits "go to sleep" when they "detect" that the car has, although how they do that when they don't plug into the CANBUS I don't know. I'm inclined to believe that there is always some drain on the battery.
I'll probably revisit this once I can work out a solution, assuming I don't get a Highland M3P before then.
DocHolliday
Member
Mine's a 2021 with ~15K miles, so similar usage. I use the frunk almost every day and so far no issues <knock wood>. No battery issues either. It must be incredibly frustrating to have things go the way they are for Durzel. One thing I have noticed is that the app no longer seems to work to close the auto frunk. Not sure if a recent update killed that functionality? Touching Open on the screen in the car and the button still work to close. Anyone else seeing the same?
It's good to see a few have good truthful results with Hansshow but the sheer volume of negative feedback is telling. I personally have had terrible experiences on more than one occasion. Even with the significant complaints about their products and lack of service when hardware needs replacement, it's a strong indicator of their business practices when no bad reviews make it to their own website. I purchased their 4.6" rear screen and getting warranty for something that lasted about 2 months was an extreme exercise in frustration. I posted an honest 1-star review for the product on their site which they did not publish and all you see for that product is mostly 5 star reviews. I have heard other owners of the same screen with the same issue so it wasn't an isolated quality problem yet the product shows 4.9 stars on their site. Go through their site and there are virtually no bad reviews - even though I found a 1-star review on one of their other products, the text was actually positive so I guess they let that one slide.
Can anyone think of a potential solution for me to have both kits installed, without having to get my 12v battery replaced every year or so due to constant parasitic drain and recharging?
I’ve had it confirmed to me by EVOffer that the 12v penthouse under the rear seats (where my auto trunk is currently wired up to) is a switched live. They also explained why this causes me some odd behaviour - namely that when my car wakes up and I’m close enough the trunk will open, because the auto trunk ECU gets switched on. Apparently when the foot sensor receives power it activates, which opens my trunk. They said having the kit wired there could cause a variety of problems because of the surge current (?), although I’ve had the kit installed there for over 2 years now.
Wiring both kits to a constant 12v live - per the instructions - doesn’t work for my use case because of how little I drive the car. They will be slowly draining the 12v in the days/weeks I’m not using it. EVOffer say the parasitic drain is minimal, but It’s not zero.
Currently I’ve got a couple of ideas and I’m keen to hear thoughts:
The power bank would be recharged when the car is awake, but wouldn’t drain the 12v when the car is asleep. The kits would remain powered for access.
(I should say I’m not remotely electronically minded so wouldn’t really know where to start with this)
Thoughts?
I’ve had it confirmed to me by EVOffer that the 12v penthouse under the rear seats (where my auto trunk is currently wired up to) is a switched live. They also explained why this causes me some odd behaviour - namely that when my car wakes up and I’m close enough the trunk will open, because the auto trunk ECU gets switched on. Apparently when the foot sensor receives power it activates, which opens my trunk. They said having the kit wired there could cause a variety of problems because of the surge current (?), although I’ve had the kit installed there for over 2 years now.
Wiring both kits to a constant 12v live - per the instructions - doesn’t work for my use case because of how little I drive the car. They will be slowly draining the 12v in the days/weeks I’m not using it. EVOffer say the parasitic drain is minimal, but It’s not zero.
Currently I’ve got a couple of ideas and I’m keen to hear thoughts:
- Wire some kind of inline switch on both kits, installed somewhere in the car that doesn’t require removing trim to access. If I know I’m not going to be driving the car for several days - I flick the switch and they are isolated from the 12v.
- Wire up a lithium power bank that outputs 12v and install it somewhere in the car. Connect the output to the two kits, and the input to the switched 12v live (or one of the USB ports if it requires that for charging).
The power bank would be recharged when the car is awake, but wouldn’t drain the 12v when the car is asleep. The kits would remain powered for access.
(I should say I’m not remotely electronically minded so wouldn’t really know where to start with this)
Thoughts?
If you're keen to keep both kits installed, you should at least wire them to the VCC Right terminal so the kits behave correctly as a minimum. Trying to add switches and extra batteries is overly complex and unnecessary.
Worst case scenario is that you have to swap-out your 12v more frequently; I personally don't think it will be that bad even with your infrequent use. The car will just wake (slightly) more often to charge it. But the car would have to do that if it was used more regularly anyway.
Worst case scenario is that you have to swap-out your 12v more frequently; I personally don't think it will be that bad even with your infrequent use. The car will just wake (slightly) more often to charge it. But the car would have to do that if it was used more regularly anyway.
Between the 2 options, I'd do the switch. An alternative to an actual switch is a bullet type connector and simply unplug them. That is what I did for different reasons than you. Tesla gave me a bit of grief about the various things I had hooked up when I was getting warranty service. They told me I needed to uninstall them before further diagnosis of a problem I had with my side repeater cameras. In the end, they agreed I could leave everything in if I disconnected to power to them so I just cut my negative power wires, extended the wires to somewhere convenient, and used bullet style connectors. This worked as I was not constantly unhooking any component from power. In your case a switch would be more convenient. Just get yourself a toggle or push-button switch and wire like so:
If this does not fix your problem, then you know it has nothing to do with the kit but this should definitely help you determine if the kit is causing your car's appetite for 12v batteries.
The problem is that the car is waking to charge the 12v because it has been drained to a certain low point. This constant drain and recharge cycle is killing the 12v over time.
Using TeslaMate it’s actually easy to see the battery slowly degrade because the intervals between the car waking up spontaneously become more regular as time goes on. Obviously it takes several months for this to start getting noticeable.
To be clear - if I were driving the car every day, or even every few days or something, like most people, it would probably be a non-issue simply because the car is always topping up the 12v whenever it’s awake.
Thanks a lot.
As a noob - why the negative wire and not the positive that connects to the battery? The negatives on the kits are - I assume - the ground connections to the chassis, are they not?
(sorry, electrical noob)
I've had very few issues with my evoffer frunk and trunk. I wired them both directly to the 12v batter terminal. I've only needed to replace the 12v battery one time in 4 years.
In my first year I had an issue where the frunk would not lift sometimes or not latch down randomly. It turned out to be water intrusion in the ECU box. I found out by opening it. The corrosion inside with just making it so weird things. They sent me a new version and it's been fine since.
In my first year I had an issue where the frunk would not lift sometimes or not latch down randomly. It turned out to be water intrusion in the ECU box. I found out by opening it. The corrosion inside with just making it so weird things. They sent me a new version and it's been fine since.
Both situations where you’re either driving it a lot or not ends up with the same outcome: the 12v gets charged when it needs charging. You driving it infrequently won’t change that because if the 12v needs juice, the car will charge it.
If you drove the car 20k miles a year the 12v would be charged way more often than if you drove it 2k miles a year, which would mean a regular deplete and charge cycle anyway because all the LV stuff still goes through the 12v when the car is being driven.
I guess I’m not being very clear..
If you’re driving often then the 12v is being regularly maintained, so chances are it never gets depleted that much by parasitic drains (OEM or otherwise).
If you’re not driving much, and leave the car for several days or even weeks, then slowly it is getting drained by the parasitic drain of the auto trunk/frunk kits, and whatever else OEM naturally drains it. I would assume, for example, the Bluetooth low energy stuff is always active so as to respond quickly to phone keys etc. The car also wakes itself up due to conditions so it’s never completely asleep.
If the car has to wake up just to charge the 12v, then by definition the charge level has dipped below a threshold. At that point it then starts maintaining the battery for - in my experience - anywhere from 1-3 hours.
Again, if you’re regularly driving the car, or it’s awake - e.g. Sentry on - it might never need to wake itself up to charge the 12v because it’s getting maintained naturally. Thus, it’s never dipping below the “wake to recharge” threshold, and it’s not having deep recharge cycles that slowly wear it out.
A 12v battery that is - for example - always being topped up between 80-100% by drives is going to be in much better shape than one that is getting deep discharge cycles from 60-100% (60 being a complete guess of what Tesla set the “wake to recharge” threshold at)
According to TeslaMate 99.2% of the time it has been monitoring my car it has been parked. It is probably fair to say that at least 90% of that time - if not 95% or more - it is parked at my house, with Sentry off, therefore asleep. Being asleep so much is what is causing the issues in my case.
Hope that makes sense.
I know exactly what you’re saying. But I’m suggesting you’re making assumptions about the management of the 12v that I don’t subscribe to.
How do you know that regularly driving the car tops the 12v up above the threshold of what the car would do when it’s not being used and there is slow discharge?
Anyway, it doesn’t really matter because my main point is the convenience of a powered trunk/frunk is lost if you have to go through an extra step to use it.
Might as well just pull them up yourself.
How do you know that regularly driving the car tops the 12v up above the threshold of what the car would do when it’s not being used and there is slow discharge?
Anyway, it doesn’t really matter because my main point is the convenience of a powered trunk/frunk is lost if you have to go through an extra step to use it.
Might as well just pull them up yourself.
xilex
Model P3D
Amazing. My battery died around after 3 years, thinking of preemptively changing at 2.5 years so I'm not stuck again.
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