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Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

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Here's the new frunk motor. It looks quite a bit smaller than before. It doesn't have a flat surface for mounting using double-side tape so may have to figure something out. Maybe build a 3d printed part?

Does anyone have dimensions of the previous motor?

latch.jpg
 
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Put the TeslaOffer Mark 3 frunk kit in today.

Here are all the kit parts:
frunk1.jpg


Water proof control box - note the single connector. IMO much prefer solution than the multi-cable box with a rubber bag.
frunk2.jpg


The latch motor (on right) is new and replaces the long rectangular box. The pic below is the bottom of the latch motor enclosure and the advantage compared to the previous version is that is is smaller but the disadvantage is that it doesn't have a flat surface for double sided tape. The orange piece on the left is my custom designed 3d printed base made from PETG plastic that screws onto the bottom of the latch motor enclosure. This give a nice flat square area for mounting using VHB tape.
frunk3.jpg
frunk4.jpg
frunk5.jpg


Here's the mounted latch motor
frunk6.jpg


Install was very straight forward. So much easier than the trunk. I really like the single wiring harness water-proof control box. Operationally, it's very smooth and opens/closes from screen, fob, phone app, and voice command using Google Routines. Mine is set to open frunk or trunk individually or if I say, "Open Sesame" both frunk and trunk open at the same time.
 
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Nicely done. Excellent job with the custom 3D printed mounting plate.
Another option is to use adhesive zip tie mounts to secure the latch motor.
Btw, where is the SD card slot? Is it inside the box?
Overall, very nice kit.
 
Thanks. I didn't even know adhesive ziptie mounts existed but did design similar 3d cable clips for cable management with holes to run a ziptie through. Used these on the trunk install to deal with strut cables. VHB on flat side.

View attachment 566274

The card slot is on the box opposite side of the connector. It has a rubber seal that is pressure fitted and the slot is behind that seal.
 
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Great thread! Timely as I’m ready to pull the trigger on the Tesla Offer trunk/frunk. Just got my 2020 Model 3 and it appears that I have an access panel in the bumper to take advantage of installing the foot sensor without bumper removal. I was ready to omit the sensor if it involved removal.

I also learned from Tesla Offer that they are working on updating the install video to reflect V2.5. Possibly out in a week or two. They said their V2.0 video is about 90% reflective of V2.5.

Those that went with Tesla Offer; any extra tools you wished you had and/or recommend to cut down on inevitable strings of curse words? Recommended trim removal kits and a particular brand of fishing wire used?

William
 
Great thread! Timely as I’m ready to pull the trigger on the Tesla Offer trunk/frunk. Just got my 2020 Model 3 and it appears that I have an access panel in the bumper to take advantage of installing the foot sensor without bumper removal. I was ready to omit the sensor if it involved removal.

I also learned from Tesla Offer that they are working on updating the install video to reflect V2.5. Possibly out in a week or two. They said their V2.0 video is about 90% reflective of V2.5.

Those that went with Tesla Offer; any extra tools you wished you had and/or recommend to cut down on inevitable strings of curse words? Recommended trim removal kits and a particular brand of fishing wire used?

William

Because I didn't have the foot panel, I didn't order the foot sensor but they sent it to me accidentally. Since I had it, I though may as well install it. It is quite handy. I am super happy with the kits and the TO guys are very supportive. You will be very happy. Both frunk and trunk did not require any wire cutting or tapping which is great. If you haven't ordered the frunk kit already, I'd suggest not to bother with the Homelink add-on. Just order the version that allows you to open/close on screen via the original frunk icon. Works well and no extra cost.

Most of the videos have all the recommended tools and surprisingly this was one of the installs where my language was not to colorful. Not saying its super-easy and you may pause occasionally to scratch your head but it's all quite doable. I said it before but I'll say it again - many people including professionals use whatever they can get their hands on for lubricant to run the wiring for the trunk button through the rubber sleeve. I chose to purchase purpose specific cable pulling lubricant as you never know if the other things people use may have long term effects (baby shampoo, window cleaner, etc). It's not a cheap car and spending another $8 is worth it for me. I bought fishing wire from Harbor Freight and it worked well. Combined with the lubricant I was able to work the cable through, without taking the molex connectors off, in about 5 minutes. Helps to have an extra pair of hands here so one can pull while other holds the rubber tube and manipulates the molex connectors.

A tip regarding the frunk latch motor. It has a cable adjustment on either end of the cable; one near latch and one near motor. The adjusters were shipped to me loose so I had to tighten the two nuts to lock it down. Since I had no idea where in the range I should lock it, I set it to the middle on both ends. Luckily this seemed to be perfect and no adjustment was needed. I suggest doing the same and adjust as needed.

Also, to initiate the frunk, follow the video instructions. As soon as I hooked everything up i hit the button and nothing happened so I thought I messed it up. Then I remembered the video. Use a screwdriver to engage the latch in closed position and then push the lighted button in the frunk. The latch should pop and release. After that, manually close the frunk. Then it should work regardless of what method you use to open your frunk (screen, phone app, fob, etc).

Good luck!
 
Because I didn't have the foot panel, I didn't order the foot sensor but they sent it to me accidentally. Since I had it, I though may as well install it. It is quite handy. I am super happy with the kits and the TO guys are very supportive. You will be very happy. Both frunk and trunk did not require any wire cutting or tapping which is great. If you haven't ordered the frunk kit already, I'd suggest not to bother with the Homelink add-on. Just order the version that allows you to open/close on screen via the original frunk icon. Works well and no extra cost.

Most of the videos have all the recommended tools and surprisingly this was one of the installs where my language was not to colorful. Not saying its super-easy and you may pause occasionally to scratch your head but it's all quite doable. I said it before but I'll say it again - many people including professionals use whatever they can get their hands on for lubricant to run the wiring for the trunk button through the rubber sleeve. I chose to purchase purpose specific cable pulling lubricant as you never know if the other things people use may have long term effects (baby shampoo, window cleaner, etc). It's not a cheap car and spending another $8 is worth it for me. I bought fishing wire from Harbor Freight and it worked well. Combined with the lubricant I was able to work the cable through, without taking the molex connectors off, in about 5 minutes. Helps to have an extra pair of hands here so one can pull while other holds the rubber tube and manipulates the molex connectors.

A tip regarding the frunk latch motor. It has a cable adjustment on either end of the cable; one near latch and one near motor. The adjusters were shipped to me loose so I had to tighten the two nuts to lock it down. Since I had no idea where in the range I should lock it, I set it to the middle on both ends. Luckily this seemed to be perfect and no adjustment was needed. I suggest doing the same and adjust as needed.

Also, to initiate the frunk, follow the video instructions. As soon as I hooked everything up i hit the button and nothing happened so I thought I messed it up. Then I remembered the video. Use a screwdriver to engage the latch in closed position and then push the lighted button in the frunk. The latch should pop and release. After that, manually close the frunk. Then it should work regardless of what method you use to open your frunk (screen, phone app, fob, etc).

Good luck!

Good stuff! Thank you for the very useful tips!
 
I chose to purchase purpose specific cable pulling lubricant as you never know if the other things people use may have long term effects (baby shampoo, window cleaner, etc). It's not a cheap car and spending another $8 is worth it for me.

I think this is probably amazingly good advice. I installed the fishing part of my trunk kit (Hansshow, not Tesla Offer) yesterday and I found that adding WD-40 lubrication in that rubber conduit had significant impacts:

(1) It become incredibly easier and faster to fish
(2) It screwed up everything because all taped fishing cables fell apart (WD-40 is a tape adhesive killer)
(3) I was very worried about getting WD-40 grease everywhere and what else it might impact

Having something specific for purpose would presumably have given me (1) without (2) and (3)
 
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I think this is probably amazingly good advice. I installed the fishing part of my trunk kit (Hansshow, not Tesla Offer) yesterday and I found that adding WD-40 lubrication in that rubber conduit had significant impacts:

(1) It become incredibly easier and faster to fish
(2) It screwed up everything because all taped fishing cables fell apart (WD-40 is a tape adhesive killer)
(3) I was very worried about getting WD-40 grease everywhere and what else it might impact

Having something specific for purpose would presumably have given me (1) without (2) and (3)

I think I remember WD-40 being a solvent, not a lubricant. I quit using it when I was in my 20's. It made a wonderful flamethrower for bugs and spiders when I was a projectionist at the drive-in tho.
 
Mk 3 Frunk has new firmware released today available on TeslaOffer's github page. Slightly smoothens opening and reduces latch noise.

Due to location of the control box, it was easy to access by removing the vented panel which unclips without tools. I did have to cut the ziptie that was holding the box in place to reposition to get the sdcard in. Took me about 5 or 6 minutes futzing around with putting in new cable tie.
 
Great thread! Timely as I’m ready to pull the trigger on the Tesla Offer trunk/frunk. Just got my 2020 Model 3 and it appears that I have an access panel in the bumper to take advantage of installing the foot sensor without bumper removal. I was ready to omit the sensor if it involved removal.

I also learned from Tesla Offer that they are working on updating the install video to reflect V2.5. Possibly out in a week or two. They said their V2.0 video is about 90% reflective of V2.5.

Those that went with Tesla Offer; any extra tools you wished you had and/or recommend to cut down on inevitable strings of curse words? Recommended trim removal kits and a particular brand of fishing wire used?

William

I am on the fence of which one to order as well. I really want the Frunk/Trunk and both sensors as well. Anyone able to help with the decision process? I see the Hansshow one is about $910 for that setup, and the Tesla Offer one is around $1,110 so about $200 more.
 
I am on the fence of which one to order as well. I really want the Frunk/Trunk and both sensors as well. Anyone able to help with the decision process? I see the Hansshow one is about $910 for that setup, and the Tesla Offer one is around $1,110 so about $200 more.
There is a detailed install thread about the Hansshow unit and it shows that the Hansshow struts caused damage to the seal around the rear window. This has also been shown in comparison videos on YouTube. I think this is a significant negative about that kit. As for the frunk, TeslaOffer has a much better waterproofing solution for the control box plus they use a single wiring harness vs multiple cables. Definitely Hansshow is more appealing from pricepoint but if you have to replace that weatherseal down the line I suspect it will cost more that the savings between the two kits.
 
There is a detailed install thread about the Hansshow unit and it shows that the Hansshow struts caused damage to the seal around the rear window. This has also been shown in comparison videos on YouTube

I'm not saying you're wrong, but I thought I saw that Tesla Offer's struts also contact the weather stripping and may also cause issues with it. Perhaps less so but I wasn't convinced one was better than the other. This is where Tesla Offer compare the two though in case anyone wants to watch it, at 1m 24s
 
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The Tesla Offer strut part to compare to is at 8m 34s in the same video

so you're right, it does look compellingly better in that regard.

I just purchased the Sonax gummiPfleger that was recommended for trying to avoid the Hansshow strut damage to the rubber seal (it's a rubber treatment product). Only time will tell if it's effective though.
 
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Both kits do make contact when opening and closing. I just double-checked. The hard casing on the HS seems to cause some abrasion whereas I haven't noticed any abrasion on the TO one. I think there's less chance for damage with soft on soft contact vs hard on soft contact.

Regardless of the kit, probably still good to use gummi phlege conditioner on this seal and all other doors seals just to keep them soft and conditioned properly.