Hansshow vs Tesla Offer Power Frunk/Trunk - which one to buy?

[tlr1000]

Yep. That’s what I am thinking about the extra time to let things sink in. The one small hurdle is running the strut wires. In the TO manual it mentions the easy way; under the weather seal and then the fun way, taking the bumper partially off. Knowing my OCD, I’m gonna want the clean, “fun” way. I’m not crazy about running the strut wires under the weather seal. Unfortunately, TO hasn’t offered the video in doing the bumper route yet. So I have viewed a couple of Hanshow videos where the bumper doesn’t appear to be taken off completely. The bumper just kind of hangs. He then routes the strut wires through the holes with the blue, rubber grommet on either side. While they are competitors, strut wires are strut wires. Hopefully someone can chime in and reassure me that’s it’s relatively easy and one can do it flying solo.

Although I took off the bumper when I installed mine this was partially due to installing foot sensor and having an older car with no tow hitch panel. On the Hansshow install I helped on, the bumper was not removed or even loosened. You can access the two blue grommets from inside the car and run a fish tape from the grommet hole up to the area between the bumper cover and car body. Although it's very tight for the plastic molex to fit through it does fit through with a bit of maneuvering and patience. Also a bit of light prying with a plastic pry tool will help. Mostly everyone uses a knife to create a criss-cross hole in the blue grommet but I chose to use a hole punch (like the kind for punching holes into leather belts) to get a perfect hole for good sealing.This wasn't necessary but just me being fussy. However I do recommend a dab of silicone.

Please do not go under the weather seal as its a sharp edge and may eventually damage the cable plus it deforms the seal. I think TO recommends it for ease of install so many people wouldn't feel overwhelmed. Going solo is doable but you might want to ask for someone to help when you run the cable through the rubber tube. Helps to have extra set of hands there.

 

[wrz0170]

Although I took off the bumper when I installed mine this was partially due to installing foot sensor and having an older car with no tow hitch panel. On the Hansshow install I helped on, the bumper was not removed or even loosened. You can access the two blue grommets from inside the car and run a fish tape from the grommet hole up to the area between the bumper cover and car body. Although it's very tight for the plastic molex to fit through it does fit through with a bit of maneuvering and patience. Also a bit of light prying with a plastic pry tool will help. Mostly everyone uses a knife to create a criss-cross hole in the blue grommet but I chose to use a hole punch (like the kind for punching holes into leather belts) to get a perfect hole for good sealing.This wasn't necessary but just me being fussy. However I do recommend a dab of silicone.

Please do not go under the weather seal as its a sharp edge and may eventually damage the cable plus it deforms the seal. I think TO recommends it for ease of install so many people wouldn't feel overwhelmed. Going solo is doable but you might want to ask for someone to help when you run the cable through the rubber tube. Helps to have extra set of hands there.

Good stuff! A relief to know that I won’t have to even loosen the bumper. That said, did you have to remove the taillights to get access to the two, blue grommets? Foot sensor should be “easy” as I have the access panel underneath.

 

[tlr1000]

Good stuff! A relief to know that I won’t have to even loosen the bumper. That said, did you have to remove the taillights to get access to the two, blue grommets? Foot sensor should be “easy” as I have the access panel underneath.

It's easier to remove the taillights just to route the strut cables. The driver's side blue grommet is round and you pass the driver's side strut cable through there. The passenger side blue grommet is oval and you can pass both passenger side strut cable and foot sensor cable through there. You will also have to pull out sections of the weather seal and it's a bit finicky to reinstall. Make sure you note (maybe with blue painters tape) where the edge of the weather seal sits so when you reattach it you end up putting it back in the same place.

 

[univ0298]

Hmm my hansshow install (which is surely the same as the TO install) required no lights removal, no bumper removal, and only a quick removal of the weather strip in some short sections, which was easily pushed back in place again. The *only* difficult part was fishing through the tight gap down behind the bumper. The blue grommets part was easy.

I also was lucky enough to have the luxury of the 2020 model’s hatch panel under the car, which made the foot sensor a 5 minute job and the easiest part of the whole trunk kit. If you don’t have this I can see the foot sensor being a really big deal requiring bumper removal.

 

[wrz0170]

Hmm my hansshow install (which is surely the same as the TO install) required no lights removal, no bumper removal, and only a quick removal of the weather strip in some short sections, which was easily pushed back in place again. The *only* difficult part was fishing through the tight gap down behind the bumper. The blue grommets part was easy.

I also was lucky enough to have the luxury of the 2020 model’s hatch panel under the car, which made the foot sensor a 5 minute job and the easiest part of the whole trunk kit. If you don’t have this I can see the foot sensor being a really big deal requiring bumper removal.

I’m all for less removal of parts. As I mentioned, while competitors, the routing of strut cables should be about the same I would think. Could I trouble you for a pic or description of the access point of where the wires would get fished to the blue grommets? I assume this point is where you would lift the weather strip in some sections? Thanks!

 

[kiNGng3]

Here's a nice comparison video of the trunk kits: Hansshow V4 vs Tesla Offer 2.5

 

[tlr1000]

@wrz0170 try leaving taillights in and just remove the weather stripping from the top corner to about 3-4 inches past the bottom corner - do this for both sides. That might give you enough space to tuck in the cable but you need to make sure the cable doesn't sit in the way of the weatherstrip when you push it back down otherwise the seal won't be correct.

 

[wrz0170]

@wrz0170 try leaving taillights in and just remove the weather stripping from the top corner to about 3-4 inches past the bottom corner - do this for both sides. That might give you enough space to tuck in the cable but you need to make sure the cable doesn't sit in the way of the weatherstrip when you push it back down otherwise the seal won't be correct.

Ok, now I got ya. When I pull up the weather stripping towards the bottom of the trunk, there will/might be enough of a gap between bumper and body of the car to fish the strut wire through to the grommets. If not, plan B.

 

[kiNGng3]

Ok, now I got ya. When I pull up the weather stripping towards the bottom of the trunk, there will/might be enough of a gap between bumper and body of the car to fish the strut wire through to the grommets. If not, plan B.

You'll need to use pry tools against the bumper plastic for the wiring to get to the grommet. Just use ample force to pry a little so the wiring can fish through. You'll need a helping hand.

 

[wrz0170]

I finally have my Tesla Offer Trunk kit installed. Easy or fun are not words I would use to describe the installation. Challenging is one I would use along with a quite stunning array of compound curse words. Unfortunately, I had one of those days where certain aspects of the installation fought me. BIG shout out to @tlr1000 who got me out of a scary jam. So some highlight and and take aways that may help someone else.

Block out the day and expect the unexpected This won’t be a 2 hour job.
Lay out your tools and parts the night before. This way your not looking for this and that.
Be comfortable with the fact that you will be ripping out trim pieces and it will snap, crackle and pop.
You will be drilling a hole on your $50,000 car. Albeit in a trim piece, but a hole never the less.
Watch the install videos a few times and read the Mark 2.5 Manual.
Don’t be afraid to hit up Raymond of TO on WhatsApp. If he’s awake, he will answer. Great CS there.

So running the strut wires was tricky. The driver side, I was able to manipulate the bumper away from the body to fish through the blue grommet. Other side, not so much. My supplied fish tape from TO (think a long zip tie) was pretty beat up by then and I couldn’t fish it for neither for love or money. I decided to take off the taillights and loosen the bumper, which wasn’t bad but time consuming. I was able to run the strut wire easily through the other blue grommet. Raymond did send me two quick videos on how to remove the larger of the two, blue connectors. It’s a little tricky but will help in fishing if you choose this method. The blue plastic piece just snaps back in. If anyone is familiar with PowerPole connectors, same idea. Bottom line here; don’t cheap out and just run the wire under the weather stripping. Go for the cleaner run.

Plugging into the CANBUS and running said CANBUS wire was fairly straight forward. Watch the video on that.

Connecting power. This one part almost made me physically ill. I went the VCC method. Seemed straight forward. A 10mm nut that holds a large red wire. Slip in the connector and tighten! What could go wrong? Double check that connection! While tightening, the connector kept wanting to slip off. Like 3x. Anyway, I must have done something that Turtle didn’t like while playing with the power. A “short” of some kind. I lost power to both passenger side doors, which I accidentally closed and my screen was lighting up like a Christmas tree with electrical errors. I thought I just bricked my brand new, M3. Turns out, I had to do a hard reset. While I really didn’t want to go through this, I am kinda glad I did because it taught me more about my Tesla. Anyway, if you get into a similar situation (thank you Ray!) :

1. Remove negative terminal (black) from battery in the frunk.
2. Remove back seat, two spring like levers on either side. Surprisingly not that hard. There is a YouTube on it.
3. Locate a grey and black connector under a foam block on passenger side. A lever folds down and then the plug comes right out.
4. Wait 10 minutes.
5. Reverse the order.

I was VERY happy and grateful that it worked and I was back in business.

Running the wires back to the trunk was straight forward. Raymond also offered two better places for the ground wire. He sent me two pics pointing out the places. If anyone wants them, I’ll be happy to post.

If you have 2019 or later, the foot sensor and running the wire was the easiest thing to install. The one thing that did not fight me.

The connections were pretty good but slow as you try to sort them all out. Everything was color coordinated even if there was no labeling on the wires. A minor nitpick with the lack of labeling. If you have Mark 2.5, there is NO cutting, splicing of wires as you see in the Mark 2.0 video. That can be a little confusing. Everything is plug and play.

Oh, if you plan on replacing the dim, OEM lights in the trunk, a GREAT time to do just that. Since the panels are out and you have to connect the lights to a TO wire. Pop in some nice, brighter ones! Good time to do the footwell lights too since the panel that holds the light on the passenger side will be out. Then just pop in the drivers side light. I did.

The trunk opens and closes without issue. Silky smooth on the open and soft close. Works as advertised. Very happy with the kit even if it was very challenging. Hopefully, frunk will be next and less challenging and less string of compound curse words.

Hope someone finds a useful nugget or two in my long post.

 

[tlr1000]

@wrz0170, are you trying to beat me for the long post award? lol. Glad you got it all done and sounds like you did everything the right way. The frunk is way easier so the good thing about starting with the trunk is that the rest should be a cakewalk. You will really like the frunk kit as well - super smooth. Just pay attention to the install video and follow it right to the end including initializing it.

 

[ddm3]

I bought the TO frunk kit based on info in this thread. Thanks all for the useful info. I thought I'd post about my experience installing it.

I got the Mark 3 version. I had already watched the V2 install video before purchase to get an idea of how difficult it would be. When the V3 video came out, I watched that too. I found that the V2 video has more detail while the V3 video speeds through installation. For instance, the V2 video shows how to tie down the wires at the end. I switched back and forth between the two based on what I was doing.

For the placement of the latch motor, they tied it using 2 small holes. I don't know if I missed it, but my older Model 3 didn't seem to have that second hole. It's not flat so it can't be taped down (unless you 3d print and determine what kind of screws fit like tlr1000 did.) I ended up using a single hole to route 2 zip ties.

The controller box is now waterproof, but a few of the connectors aren't so you still have to wrap those in electrical tape. The homelink box needs wrapping too. (I'm not sure I'll be using the homelink feature since the screen frunk button opens and closes fine.)

Without the frunk shell reinstalled, it shut fine. With the frunk shell, it wouldn't latch completely. It got down to the last inch or so but didn't close. I ended up putting a camera inside the frunk to see what was happening. Turns out, the latch holder was set too far in one direction. In the V3 video at around 3:.08, he talks about tightening the nuts using a 12mm wrench. He says he sets it around "here". What he means is that the nuts should be around the middle of the threaded bolt thing. If it's too far towards the black cable, you get the problem I did where it won't pull the frunk completely closed.

Before tying the control box down, be sure to update the firmware. It could be difficult to access the card slot once it's installed. I'm not sure what version it came with so I did the update to latest just in case.

Overall, it went pretty smoothly except for the closing issue. I'll definitely be using the frunk more often now.

 

[towndrunk]

I bought the TO frunk kit based on info in this thread. Thanks all for the useful info. I thought I'd post about my experience installing it.

Without the frunk shell reinstalled, it shut fine. With the frunk shell, it wouldn't latch completely. It got down to the last inch or so but didn't close. I ended up putting a camera inside the frunk to see what was happening. Turns out, the latch holder was set too far in one direction. In the V3 video at around 3:.08, he talks about tightening the nuts using a 12mm wrench. He says he sets it around "here". What he means is that the nuts should be around the middle of the threaded bolt thing. If it's too far towards the black cable, you get the problem I did where it won't pull the frunk completely closed.

That's the same problem I had. Figured it out months later when the Electric Garage video came out.

 

[tlr1000]

I bought the TO frunk kit based on info in this thread. Thanks all for the useful info. I thought I'd post about my experience installing it.

I got the Mark 3 version. I had already watched the V2 install video before purchase to get an idea of how difficult it would be. When the V3 video came out, I watched that too. I found that the V2 video has more detail while the V3 video speeds through installation. For instance, the V2 video shows how to tie down the wires at the end. I switched back and forth between the two based on what I was doing.

For the placement of the latch motor, they tied it using 2 small holes. I don't know if I missed it, but my older Model 3 didn't seem to have that second hole. It's not flat so it can't be taped down (unless you 3d print and determine what kind of screws fit like tlr1000 did.) I ended up using a single hole to route 2 zip ties.

The controller box is now waterproof, but a few of the connectors aren't so you still have to wrap those in electrical tape. The homelink box needs wrapping too. (I'm not sure I'll be using the homelink feature since the screen frunk button opens and closes fine.)

Without the frunk shell reinstalled, it shut fine. With the frunk shell, it wouldn't latch completely. It got down to the last inch or so but didn't close. I ended up putting a camera inside the frunk to see what was happening. Turns out, the latch holder was set too far in one direction. In the V3 video at around 3:.08, he talks about tightening the nuts using a 12mm wrench. He says he sets it around "here". What he means is that the nuts should be around the middle of the threaded bolt thing. If it's too far towards the black cable, you get the problem I did where it won't pull the frunk completely closed.

Before tying the control box down, be sure to update the firmware. It could be difficult to access the card slot once it's installed. I'm not sure what version it came with so I did the update to latest just in case.

Overall, it went pretty smoothly except for the closing issue. I'll definitely be using the frunk more often now.

Glad you got it all done and figured out the issue you had.

When I installed my Mk3, their video wasn't out yet so I used the video for v2 and the gaps were fairly easy to figure out. Nice that there is no wire cutting or splicing of any kind needed. Good tip about firmware update. I updated mine after install and it was a bit inconvenient to access - took me 5 or 6 minutes when it should have taken 1 but not a huge hassle.

I'm really glad I bought this kit instead of the Hansshow one. I've been following another thread about the Hansshow frunk and seems there's a few quality problems. Both my TeslaOffer frunk and trunk have been rock solid...knock on wood.

 

[Lombo2018]

Glad you got it all done and figured out the issue you had.

When I installed my Mk3, their video wasn't out yet so I used the video for v2 and the gaps were fairly easy to figure out. Nice that there is no wire cutting or splicing of any kind needed. Good tip about firmware update. I updated mine after install and it was a bit inconvenient to access - took me 5 or 6 minutes when it should have taken 1 but not a huge hassle.

I'm really glad I bought this kit instead of the Hansshow one. I've been following another thread about the Hansshow frunk and seems there's a few quality problems. Both my TeslaOffer frunk and trunk have been rock solid...knock on wood.

 

[Lombo2018]

I installed the new mk3 frunk last week wasn’t aware there was a firmware update. Please let me know if I should contact Raymond.
Thanks to you tlr1000 for all your info has been very helpful

 

[tlr1000]

I installed the new mk3 frunk last week wasn’t aware there was a firmware update. Please let me know if I should contact Raymond.
Thanks to you tlr1000 for all your info has been very helpful

TeslaOffer has a github page with their firmware at: teslaoffer/electric-liftgate-firmware

The latest Mk3 frunk firmware is:
- F06A (MARK 3.0 - Without Touch Screen Close) - I believe this is the version if you have Homelink closing but please check
- F07A (MARK 3.0 - With Touch Screen Close) - this is what I am running w/o Homelink closing

It's very possible you already have the latest but you can always double check with TeslaOffer. That being said, I don't believe there's any harm in reflashing with the applicable firmware even if you already have the most current. After reflashing, re-initialize and set you desired speed as it may be erased.

Often times, these guys are awake when we are sleeping and vise versa.

 

[Cici.Hung]

I will be helping a friend install a V4 Hansshow trunk kit soon so I should be able to provide some additional comparison on the Hansshow V4 vs TeslaOffer Mk2.5 trunk kit. I've watched the Hansshow install video and was a bit surprised it requires joining bare wires together. In the video, they simply twisted the wires together and used electrical tape. My plan is solder and heat-shrink to ensure a long-lasting connection. The video made me appreciate that the TeslaOffer kit doesn't need any bare wires connected together but I will be in a better position to offer comparative comments after the install.

You don't know Hansshow have 2 version ? That's funny. Hansshow have DIY version, that's the version you saw on video they tape together, but not need to cut any wire. Just for pass the tube more easier , customer could do DIY simple. Another version is plug and play version. Just connect the plug directly. Hansshow always emphise the safety for the car. None of any kits need to cut any wire.

 

[smatthew]

yeah, I'll just have to be selective on when to bring in my car for service. If its a problem related to the frunk or trunk Ill either get it repaired at a different place or if its substantial enough, remove the entire system.

Has anyone gotten the Hansshow foot sensor for the frunk? How are their foot sensors in general? A lot of false positives? I read awhile back that people have had it pop open while driving slowly over a speed bump

The frunk foot sensor is very safe. It uses the emergency frunk release system behind the tow hook cover, so the car will only let the frunk foot sensor cause the frunk to open if the car is in Park AND unlocked.

 

[tlr1000]

You don't know Hansshow have 2 version ? That's funny. Hansshow have DIY version, that's the version you saw on video they tape together, but not need to cut any wire. Just for pass the tube more easier , customer could do DIY simple. Another version is plug and play version. Just connect the plug directly. Hansshow always emphise the safety for the car. None of any kits need to cut any wire.

Yes, I do know there are two versions - that's been mentioned before. Not sure what you see as "funny". To be clear the issue is not a need to cut wires - the wires were bare and needed joining by soldering. Bottom line is the "version" of the Hansshow kit my friend ordered, and I helped install, did require joining several wires together. (Picture below). It was not plug and play. Even if we chose not to solder and simply twist and tape like the video (which is a substandard connection method) it was still more work to install the Hansshow kit and chance of mixing something up. The chance of mixing something up or the customer not making a secure wire connection can impact safety and add to troubleshooting problems. My friend's kit was ordered less than a month ago and was the v4 version. He was not given a choice of versions between DIY or otherwise. Regardless, reducing it down to a single version that does not require wire joining would simplify confusion and enhance safety.

Bottomline is I've installed both manufacturer's most recent trunk kits. The advantage of the Hansshow kit is price and inclusion of fishtape and nice color instruction sheet. However the TeslaOffer kit is easier to install, smoother operating, and does not damage the rear window weather seal.