That’s unfortunate. I’m still thrilled every time I drive it, even after 140,000 miles.
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Having second thoughts
- Thread starter Fifthmonkee
- Start date
That’s unfortunate. I’m still thrilled every time I drive it, even after 140,000 miles.
Just relooking at the original post, I'd say, don't spend more than $500. If you can't get a 240V circuit, then just charge on 120V and hit the supercharger as necessary. You're in Atlanta, should be a supercharger on your route. Further, are there any outlets at work? For some people, charging at work, makes more sense, and may be free. You only do the big roundtrip once or twice a week, you have time to charge.
Also, a 240 mile roundtrip will almost always need a supercharger stop to be most time-efficient. Play with ABRP, abetterrouteplanner.com to check your commute. It'll tell you the best, fastest route strategy. Generally, drive fast, but safe, and charge at low SOCs to about 65%, and repeat. That's the fastest way to travel. If you have to supercharge anyway, you may find you don't need to charge to high SOC levels. I keep mine at 60%, and hit the supercharger as necessary, even for long trips, since you only save a few minutes at the first charger. Not really enough time saved to make special planning.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
You are reading a second hand account and OP is not an electrician. Take it all with a dose of healthy skepticism.
An electrician would be unlikely to ever say "overfull." Perhaps overloaded, but that has a specific meaning by NEC code
Theres absolutely zero chance I would own an EV without access to home charging. Even if the wasnt as hilariously overpriced as a tesla is compared to a subaru, mazda etc
Perhaps someone will take ur place in line for $250 so youre not out cash
Perhaps someone will take ur place in line for $250 so youre not out cash
I own a very large solar company. To simplify things to a homeowner or in some instances a business owner, we often times describe the need for a new main panel or worse a service upgrade as an overfill condition, either because the straw is too little (service upgrade) or because the straws in the cup are too big for the size of the cup (overload condition and or physical lack of breaker space). If ya need to much and ya have to little and the client needs to grasp a concept they might not otherwise, making it relatable is 100% ok.
Calling bullshit is unnecessary and rude.
Huh, that is indeed quite full. Does your service panel feed multiple units or something? That seems like a crazy amount of circuits for a condo (unless you somehow have like an 8 bedroom condo). My suspicion would be some of those circuits can be consolidated, but without knowing what's going where, that's hard to say.
You could probably consolidate a couple of those 40A double breakers with something like this to make some room... but you probably need to figure out where everything is going and see if you're anywhere close to actually using up your full 200A
You could probably consolidate a couple of those 40A double breakers with something like this to make some room... but you probably need to figure out where everything is going and see if you're anywhere close to actually using up your full 200A
There are so many other options. Even a standard outlet can work, even with a long drive if it’s only once a or twice a week. You can get 40+ miles charging overnight on a regular outlet.
In my older 60’s house they actually used wire appropriate for 20A outlets so I could change the one for the car if so desired.
You could get something between 15A and 50A for much easier than 50A.
My house is only 100A and all of the breakers are used and most are using slims.
I could swap my electric oven for a gas one as the kitchen is wired for both.
Keep mine I have a 4 bed, 3 bath, two story house with multiple zone HVAC, electric oven, microwave, two fridges, lots of flat screens, surround systems, and still charge the Tesla at home on that 100A service.
It can be done. It’s not ideal. But I don’t have issues blowing breakers.
I know what’s going to what breakers and manage to what’s on at the same times.
Sure it’s not as simple as plug it in and not think about it but this isn’t my forever home and I didn’t want to put in the extra money just to charge the car faster.
I also switched all the lights in the house to LED back when they were not common and standard bulbs were still east to get. In my large house that make a huge difference in max draw.
In my older 60’s house they actually used wire appropriate for 20A outlets so I could change the one for the car if so desired.
You could get something between 15A and 50A for much easier than 50A.
My house is only 100A and all of the breakers are used and most are using slims.
I could swap my electric oven for a gas one as the kitchen is wired for both.
Keep mine I have a 4 bed, 3 bath, two story house with multiple zone HVAC, electric oven, microwave, two fridges, lots of flat screens, surround systems, and still charge the Tesla at home on that 100A service.
It can be done. It’s not ideal. But I don’t have issues blowing breakers.
I know what’s going to what breakers and manage to what’s on at the same times.
Sure it’s not as simple as plug it in and not think about it but this isn’t my forever home and I didn’t want to put in the extra money just to charge the car faster.
I also switched all the lights in the house to LED back when they were not common and standard bulbs were still east to get. In my large house that make a huge difference in max draw.
Hard to see anything in that image, so I cropped and brightened it. Shame the electrician didn't label very much.
You seem to have a basement stove and AC. Is your kitchen in the basement? What are the breakers in slot 1-3, 2-4, and 5-7?
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
It's hard to read the label but I think it says 150 Amp. So your two busbars are good for about 18 kW each. That is a *lot* of power, and it is hard to believe than an EV cannot be accommodated with a little flexibility in the approach.
By the way, I asked a young electrician friend of mine if it is code to disconnect a circuit at the panel and use the breaker for a new circuit. He said yes so long as both the hot and neutral ends are capped (a nut lug used). It probably makes sense to also label the wires very clearly in case someone down the line wonders where they go or wants to use them again.
So you have a simple, inexpensive, and elegant solution: De-energize the hot tube and use its breaker for a new circuit to your EV.
Approach #2
If you have a 240v line in the same room as the main panel and do not want to re-purpose it, re-route it to a sub-panel that also holds your new EV circuit. Then put in a larger breaker in the main panel in place of the breaker that had been protecting the 240v line and connect it to your sub-panel.
There are a LOT of options. As others have said, just find an electrician willing to think a bit rather than just suggest the most profitable approach. Your best bet may be to call an electrician who charges for the consultation. Free is not free.
By the way, I asked a young electrician friend of mine if it is code to disconnect a circuit at the panel and use the breaker for a new circuit. He said yes so long as both the hot and neutral ends are capped (a nut lug used). It probably makes sense to also label the wires very clearly in case someone down the line wonders where they go or wants to use them again.
So you have a simple, inexpensive, and elegant solution: De-energize the hot tube and use its breaker for a new circuit to your EV.
Approach #2
If you have a 240v line in the same room as the main panel and do not want to re-purpose it, re-route it to a sub-panel that also holds your new EV circuit. Then put in a larger breaker in the main panel in place of the breaker that had been protecting the 240v line and connect it to your sub-panel.
There are a LOT of options. As others have said, just find an electrician willing to think a bit rather than just suggest the most profitable approach. Your best bet may be to call an electrician who charges for the consultation. Free is not free.
bo3bdar
Member
As noted, I think your charging needs would easily be met by 120V circuit and the included Tesla charger, plus 15 minute Supercharger visits as needed.
To help you decide yea/nay, here's another consideration- Do you personally enjoy high tech toys? Smartphones, game consoles, big screen TV stuff, home theater/stereo, PC gaming, high end photography; stuff like that?
If you enjoy playing around with high tech toys, you will find the Model 3 to be super fun and interesting.
If you don't care one way or the other for high-tech, it's a maybe and probably you'd be best to save money with your Subie.
If you find high-tech annoying, you should definitely pass on it.
I live in CT where it is way more expensive for everything than most states and the cost to add a subpanel and a 50amp breaker and a outlet from my basement on one end of the house to my garage that was on the other side of the house was $1400 from a licensed electrician. And I was able to get some of that back via rebates.
Well, apparently the Model 3 they told me I was to pick up last Friday in GA, is in Puerto Rico. . . . . So I guess I'll have more time to make up my mind 
.
.Well, apparently the Model 3 they told me I was to pick up last Friday in GA, is in Puerto Rico. . . . . So I guess I'll have more time to make up my mind
As in/on the island of Puerto Rico? I think there was a typo on their part or something....
Yes, that PR. I just talked to a rep, and that's what he said, but he is checking it out....
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