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Help! What does this mean??? (PIC)

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I literally just moved my 2016 MX 90D on the driveway to charge another car. Tried getting back in the X, it unlocked but the door didn’t open. I can’t access it on the app either as it’s just loading. Went over to the front and these lights are on and red. What does that mean? I can’t find anything online about this.
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is this car new (to you)? The red lights are not OEM, they appear to be a kit like this:


Not sure about the car not connecting or opening the door, maybe the 12V is dead/dying?
Yes it’s new to me, I’ve had it for about a month. As far as I know they were only white. I had never seen them turn another color until this happened. Wouldn’t even know how to change them.
 
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Well that link i posted says the kit comes with a bluetooth controller for the lights, but it also mentions a smartphone app. Looks like it's called "Oracle Colorshift pro". Try the app and see if it works. The page also says "For Dynamic ColorSHIFT App, use Protocol Setting: GRB-SK6812"

Either way, a low 12v battery can make the car do weird things. It's possible the lights defaulted back to red.
 
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is this car new (to you)? The red lights are not OEM, they appear to be a kit like this:


Not sure about the car not connecting or opening the door, maybe the 12V is dead/dying?
You are 100% correct. I found the controller for them under the panels in the front. They are those exact ones.
 
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Not sure how easy it would be to change them back to OEM.

I wouldn't be too concerned about 12V drain, the DC-DC converter tops the 12V off when the voltage drops below a certain threshold. Many people have installed aftermarket dash cams and power frunk kits by tapping the 12V without any issues. I have a power-frunk kit myself.

On average, the 12V battery only lasts 3yrs before needing replacement. Yours might have been overdue (assuming the 12V did actually fail)
 
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Well that link i posted says the kit comes with a bluetooth controller for the lights, but it also mentions a smartphone app. Looks like it's called "Oracle Colorshift pro". Try the app and see if it works. The page also says "For Dynamic ColorSHIFT App, use Protocol Setting: GRB-SK6812"

Either way, a low 12v battery can make the car do weird things. It's possible the lights defaulted back to red.
Yea. Found the app and I also found the actual BT controller under the panels in the frunk. Still can’t control them with either though. I appreciate the info. I never would have known.
Not sure how easy it would be to change them back to OEM.

I wouldn't be too concerned about 12V drain, the DC-DC converter tops the 12V off when the voltage drops below a certain threshold. Many people have installed aftermarket dash cams and power frunk kits by tapping the 12V without any issues. I have a power-frunk kit myself.

On average, the 12V battery only lasts 3yrs before needing replacement. Yours might have been overdue (assuming the 12V did actually fail)
Jumped it so it’s alive for now. I’ll have the 12V replaced asap. Still trying to find a way to control the lights.
 
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Those lights are also tapped into the 12v... who knows how much drain they cause. I personally wouldn't goof with any third-party device that could drain my 12v battery. I'm allergic to being stranded.
Totally understand where you’re coming from. I’m the same way, I don’t like tapping into the 12V either for that reason. In my case, however, I didn’t know it had these, I’ve only owned it about a month so obviously the previous owner had these installed. I’m so thankful this happened on my driveway.
 
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Not sure how easy it would be to change them back to OEM.

I wouldn't be too concerned about 12V drain, the DC-DC converter tops the 12V off when the voltage drops below a certain threshold. Many people have installed aftermarket dash cams and power frunk kits by tapping the 12V without any issues. I have a power-frunk kit myself.

On average, the 12V battery only lasts 3yrs before needing replacement. Yours might have been overdue (assuming the 12V did actually fail)
I had been meaning to check the date on the battery just to get an idea of when I’d need to replace it, just never got around to it. My M3 lasted 4 years on its original 12V before it needed replacement, but on that one I received a notification before it died, no such luck with the MX. Thankfully though, both 12V incidents happened on my driveway.
 
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I always carry these 2 things in the frunk at all times: a battery pack jumper and a battery tire inflator. When the 12V battery dies, the frunk can still be opened manually. Both of them have saved me and my family multiple times.
Since Tesla service can't get to me soon enough to get the 12V replaced, I placed my battery jumper in the frunk which also happens to have a tire inflator if needed. Thankfully this happened on my driveway so I didn't get stranded, but at least now I'm prepared if it happens away from home.
 
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So I drove the vehicle yesterday (still waiting for mobile to come by and replace 12v tomorrow after initially getting a 4/29 appointment). No issues on my ~40-minute round trip, just the constant message to schedule service to replace battery. This morning I got this message (attached) that I wasn’t getting yesterday. So my question, is it possible for it to shut down mid-drive? I know it can happen if there’s issues with the HV battery but not the 12V. So I’m just wondering if it’ll leave me stranded if I have to make another trip between now and mobile service appt.

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So I drove the vehicle yesterday (still waiting for mobile to come by and replace 12v tomorrow after initially getting a 4/29 appointment). No issues on my ~40-minute round trip, just the constant message to schedule service to replace battery. This morning I got this message (attached) that I wasn’t getting yesterday. So my question, is it possible for it to shut down mid-drive? I know it can happen if there’s issues with the HV battery but not the 12V. So I’m just wondering if it’ll leave me stranded if I have to make another trip between now and mobile service appt.

View attachment 1039726
It shouldn’t be possible to shut down mid-drive since the contractors are open (closed?) on the HV battery
 
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So I drove the vehicle yesterday (still waiting for mobile to come by and replace 12v tomorrow after initially getting a 4/29 appointment). No issues on my ~40-minute round trip, just the constant message to schedule service to replace battery. This morning I got this message (attached) that I wasn’t getting yesterday. So my question, is it possible for it to shut down mid-drive? I know it can happen if there’s issues with the HV battery but not the 12V. So I’m just wondering if it’ll leave me stranded if I have to make another trip between now and mobile service appt.
12 volt battery failure could occur at any time, driving or not. It is usually a very high priority fix, because it is simple, and a stranded Tesla owner is a really really unhappy camper. If they do not happen to have a replacement battery immediately available, it may add a few days to the response time. But I have had that happen to me before, and mobile service was in my driveway the next morning, less than 24 hours after opening the ticket.
 
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12 volt battery failure could occur at any time, driving or not. It is usually a very high priority fix, because it is simple, and a stranded Tesla owner is a really really unhappy camper. If they do not happen to have a replacement battery immediately available, it may add a few days to the response time. But I have had that happen to me before, and mobile service was in my driveway the next morning, less than 24 hours after opening the ticket.
So you’re saying that it CAN cause the vehicle to shut down mid-drive? I was under the impression that as long as you can get it on then it would stay on. Such as with an ICE vehicle once you can get a jump, the car should stay on as long as you don’t turn the ignition off or once your alternator gives out too

I scheduled my appt with service but they initially had me down for 4/29 which was 12 days out. No way it’d last that long, although since it happened I carry my jump starter in the frunk. After chatting with them on the app, they were able to bump me up to tomorrow 4/17. I was actually just going to request I pick up the battery and install it myself, but when they bumped me up I decided to just keep the appt and let them do it.
 
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So you’re saying that it CAN cause the vehicle to shut down mid-drive?

I'm pretty sure it's not *CAN*, but *DOES*. I'm not an electrical engineer nor Sandy Munro... my understanding is just from what I've read on these forums, so someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

In an ICE vehicle, the 12v components can still function if the battery dies mid-drive because the alternator continues to power them.

In a Tesla, the HV battery charges the 12v battery, and the 12v battery powers the 12v components. If the car could power the 12v components without the 12v battery, the 12v battery would be completely unnecessary.

When the 12v battery dies, all the systems have no power... the HV battery only powers the motors and the 12v battery, everything else (lights, wipers, power steering, computers, sensors, etc) is powered from the 12v.

Early roadsters didn't use a 12v battery, and instead powered everything directly from the HV battery. This had its own problems, including much more phantom drain.
 
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