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Anyone have suggestions on where to hang the trailer safety chains?
All, for everyone installing trailer hitch. please read this article, dont want your car suffering from this metal rust, and aluminum deterioration.
Tesla Model S hitch by Torklift (3 year update): Eaten alive
That is actually quite horrifying. Galvanic corrosion is something I've worried a lot about since I basically drive in a salt bath for many months a year. I've had my fair share of rotted and corroded components replaced under warranty by Tesla, but mostly cosmetic. I do worry about some major component failing due to this process.
There are a number of web sites which list the Tekonsha trailer wiring kits as being appropriate for the Model S. For some examples see the following:
Reese-Hitches.com | Trailer Hitches & Towing Accessories | 877-507-0711
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/119250KIT.html
http://www.tekonsha.com/fit-guides/electrical-selector
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fit-guides/hitch-selector
I have exhaustively tested out the Tekonsha Universal Trailer Wiring Light Kit Harness Kit Plug (Splice) and have been unable to get it to work properly when the tail lights are turned off (consistent with the comments above). Has anyone tested the Zero Contact Interface Universal ModuLite from Tekonsha (referred to in a number off the websites)? If so, does it work properly?
For reference purposes the following are the relevant wire colors in our 2012 Model S:
View attachment 271118
Based on my testing each of the alternative turn signal wires on each side functioned in the same way.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I just tried this on my 2013 MS and it bench tested great. Ready to get my 5x8 mesh trailer now. This was exactly what I was waiting for and the eco hitch is also great. Thanks for all your help BIGLY!!
Not a big deal I hooked it up last year , go with all led . I'm more concerned about the differentiation metals . Having mine re and re with a washer kit in a couple weeksI picked up the EcoHitch for the Model S and I need to get the harness wired in for the trailer lights. This is a light duty open motorcyle trailer that only needs rear lights and turn signals.
What I can't get a good answer to is wiring the car up for the trailer:
1. For a basic flat four wiring setup do I actually need a power source other than pulling power off of the existing lines from the tail lights?
2. If I do need a power source, I plan to fuse it, but where do I tap to get power on the Model S? Typically I would tap off of the battery of the car at the posts. I am not looking forward to digging the 12V out and tapping that since it is already a troublesome part on the MS.
My assumptions:
- Standard wiring harnesses pull power from the rear tail lamps to power the trailer lights
- Advanced wiring harnesses use a power block which is powered from a 12V power source to power the lights bypassing the use of the rear lamp power.
Any help is appreciated
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Has anyone tested the Zero Contact Interface Universal ModuLite from Tekonsha (referred to in a number off the websites)? If so, does it work properly?
Darn, I just typed a book on an install and TMC said security error and to refresh page. Tried to save material and wouldn't save so I tried refresh and it wiped it all out. Grrr... Tekonsha install on MS using MX hitch. Wandering off babbling now...
After troubleshooting my setup I realised I had mixed up a Tesla wire and had also missed a connection on my trailer connector. So all is workin 100% now. The Tekonsha Zero Contact box is definitely the best option. I power it from the permanent 12V coming from the OBD2 port.
OBD2 is under dash. There are other options around the back, like the auto-liftgate.I just purchased an EcoHitch and Tekonsha for my ‘13 Model S and am wondering where the OBD2 port is for the 12v? Any other locations near the back of the vehicle that I can tap into?
I have been carrying 4 kayaks on the roof rack of my MS. They kill range by a lot. Since its so speed dependent, I can't give one number of how much they affected range, but at ~60mph at sea level/70 degrees temperature, probably 25% degradation in range. That is with them on the roof.Has there been any updates on trailer use /new wiring/ use with filament bulbs / range etc? I'm hooking on a hitch for small in frequent use