Home charging options

[vitesse]

I think I may have identified the reason for the unreliable home charging via my ROLEC. It may not be the ROLEC at all, but the house's main fuse not rated high enough. The installers failed to notify me that the main fuse needed to be beefed up from 60A to 100A.

This is done for free by UK Power Networks, but when I contacted them about this they said they would only do the fuse upgrade if it could be verified that the meter and consumer unit 'tails' were up to spec. (25mm).

I wish all this had been explained to me much earlier! I hope this post will help others in the future.

I might need an electrician to check the 'local' side of the wiring while my electricity supplier will need to look at the supply side, I believe.

To complicate matters further, I want to switch suppliers and that will require my current smart meter to be replaced by a different one. So maybe I should kill two birds with one stone? The only problem is that this could take quite a few weeks In the mean time if I use the ROLEC I risk blowing the main fuse to the house! So until this is resolved I will be using the UMC and charging at 10A (6 miles range per hour).

 

[arg]

I think I may have identified the reason for the unreliable home charging via my ROLEC. It may not be the ROLEC at all, but the house's main fuse not rated high enough. The installers failed to notify me that the main fuse needed to be beefed up from 60A to 100A.

As discussed in the other thread, it's extremely unlikely that this has anything to do with your current unreliable charging.

However, as a general point then it is relatively common that the main fuse will need upgrading for a chargepoint installation. Competent installers will check this out before starting the install. Depending on where in the country you are and how the install is to be wired, they will very often ask you to get an isolator switch installed between meter and consumer unit, since it's unsafe to work on that wiring 'live', and the only way to isolate it is to remove the main fuse. In general, it's illegal for a private electrician to remove the main fuse as this involves cutting the seal that protects against abstraction (electricity theft). In some areas there are special arrangements for authorized electricians to get temporary seals so that they can pull the fuse. Elsewhere, some electricians know that enforcement is lax and just cut the seals illegally.

As an aside, getting a smartmeter is a golden opportunity to get an isolator switch in and so make it easier to sort out the tails. When installing the meter, they will typically renew the supply-side tails anyhow, but they aren't allowed to touch the consumer unit so have to leave your tails in place. So if you book them to install an isolator switch at the same time (or if your supplier doesn't admit to that being a service they offer, have one in your back pocket when the installer calls) that saves a visit and makes life easier.

 

[vitesse]

I already have a smart meter but it needs to be replaced as it's not compatible with the new supplier.

 

[miimura]

@vitesse - if you're worried about overloading your main fuse, just turn down the charging current on the car's screen. See if that will allow the car to reliably charge all the way to the full set point (90%) from the Rolec wallbox.

 

[vitesse]

Good point, I will try that!

 

[Penfold]

I already have a smart meter but it needs to be replaced as it's not compatible with the new supplier.

SMETS1 meters (which seem to be supplier specific) are ‘supposed’ to be opened up soon to allow them to be used across all suppliers rather than having to switch all to SMETS2 meters which can already do this. No idea when or how but read it somewhere recently, think it was on the Octopus Go website if I remember correctly. I don’t think it’s all SMETS1 meters though.....

 

[vitesse]

SMETS1 meters (which seem to be supplier specific) are ‘supposed’ to be opened up soon to allow them to be used across all suppliers rather than having to switch all to SMETS2 meters which can already do this. No idea when or how but read it somewhere recently, think it was on the Octopus Go website if I remember correctly. I don’t think it’s all SMETS1 meters though.....

Yes, it's supposed to be an OTA firmware upgrade.

 

[vitesse]

@vitesse - if you're worried about overloading your main fuse, just turn down the charging current on the car's screen. See if that will allow the car to reliably charge all the way to the full set point (90%) from the Rolec wallbox.

Only had time to try 24A but that made no difference. Will try 16A later. Otherwise back to the UMC but it's rather damp today so won't take any risks.

 

[WannabeOwner]

Otherwise back to the UMC but it's rather damp today so won't take any risks.

My UMC has been plugged into / coiled up on outdoor wall Commando socket for a couple of months (periodic tripping of (old style) ROLEC means risk of "no charge" was a nuisance). Not had any problem come rain or shine. Its not on an extension lead, with a 13 AMP 4-way sat in a puddle though

 

[vitesse]

My UMC has been plugged into / coiled up on outdoor wall Commando socket for a couple of months (periodic tripping of (old style) ROLEC means risk of "no charge" was a nuisance). Not had any problem come rain or shine. Its not on an extension lead, with a 13 AMP 4-way sat in a puddle though

Knowing me I'd blow the ROLEC up and the consumer unit at the same time!

 

[interbear]

Having joined the “ordered and patiently waiting” list for M3 I’m researching home charging options and found this thread.

I’m unsure whether to go for the Tesla WCU as it’s not covered in the OLEV grant, or opt for an alternative in which case I’ve narrowed down to the Pod Point and Anderson options. And I have a few questions.

• I’d like to get this sorted in advance of the car being delivered. What information do I need to order a home charger unit? Basically, having ordered the car can I order a home charger now or do I need to wait for anything specific?
• My parking space is the other side of the house to the electric meter and fuse box. Am I right in assuming that a cable can be run to the home charger unit externally?
• What should I look for in my fuse box to check that it has capacity to add the home charger? I’ve no idea!
• I understand that the Tesla UMC charger and cable is provided with the car. Am I able to use this to charge the car when visiting family just by plugging it into a standard electric socket?

Thanks all.

 

[Tony Hoyle]

For the grant you'll need the invoice and some installers want a delivery date (estimated should be fine, since that's all we have anyway).

Most installers have limits on how much cable they'll run on a standard install. A good installer will do a site survey first so you'll know if there's any extra.

Again up to the installer to sort out. They'll simply add an extra CU if there isn't space in the current one.

 

[WannabeOwner]

What information do I need to order a home charger unit?

To get the OLEV grant you need to actually be buying a car. That has, in some cases, required quoting a VIN etc. Other installers seem to be ale to get around that red tape ... perhaps just a question to ask of the installer, once you have selected one?

Am I right in assuming that a cable can be run to the home charger unit externally?

Up to you (internal/external). Also, people have bought and run the (armoured cable) themselves to save money and then Sparky just connected it up. Usually you'll need to leave it all "exposed" (trench containing cable etc.) so Sparky can see it. All that depeds from Sparky to Sparky. Less likely to be accommodated by OLEV-authorised installers than your local, friendly, Sparky

What should I look for in my fuse box to check that it has capacity to add the home charger?

Most houses have a 100 AMP master fuse. If you have smaller than that, or lots of power showers (or Arc Welding gear!!) then that might be an issue. (Usually solved by fitting a device which stops the car charging if other household usage would take it over the max fuse limit

If you have breakers (which Trip and you can Reset), rather than fuse wire, that's a good sign

Am I able to use this to charge the car when visiting family just by plugging it into a standard electric socket?

Yup. Roughly speaking 13AMP plug is 6MPH, all charger is 22 MPH. 13AMP plug has greater losses than Wall Charger (its not a huge amount, but might be a good enough reason not to use 13AMP as your only home-charging solution)

 

[vitesse]

Having joined the “ordered and patiently waiting” list for M3 I’m researching home charging options and found this thread.

I’m unsure whether to go for the Tesla WCU as it’s not covered in the OLEV grant, or opt for an alternative in which case I’ve narrowed down to the Pod Point and Anderson options. And I have a few questions.

• I’d like to get this sorted in advance of the car being delivered. What information do I need to order a home charger unit? Basically, having ordered the car can I order a home charger now or do I need to wait for anything specific?

To qualify for the OLEV subsidy you do need proof of purchase of your EV. That includes a final invoice.

• My parking space is the other side of the house to the electric meter and fuse box. Am I right in assuming that a cable can be run to the home charger unit externally?

I think so. My charge point is on the opposite side of the house and around a corner from the consumer unit. There is a cable run around the outside of the house to connect the two.

• What should I look for in my fuse box to check that it has capacity to add the home charger? I’ve no idea!

You need a spare 32A space. I didn't, so a secondary box had to be installed.

• I understand that the Tesla UMC charger and cable is provided with the car. Am I able to use this to charge the car when visiting family just by plugging it into a standard electric socket?

Yes, but the charge rate is only about 2.3kW (10A). on my MS 70D that's to around 6 typical miles range per hour. That's about 15 hours from 50% to 90% state of charge (SoC).

Don't worry about any of this, owning a Tesla is life changing

 

[vitesse]

@WannabeOwner My house only has a 60A master fuse. The connections between the meter and the consumer unit need to be validated to 25mm cables. I'll get that done when my replacement smartmeter from Octopus is installed. Then I'll request the master fuse to be changed by UK Power Networks (free). It's only a precaution in case we have another heavy load appliance installed, like a hot tub (UKPN's example)

 

[interbear]

To qualify for the OLEV subsidy you do need proof of purchase of your EV. That includes a final invoice.

OK understood. If I opt for the Tesla home charger though, which doesn’t qualify for the OLEV grant, can I order it now and get on with it?

 

[navt]

Having joined the “ordered and patiently waiting” list for M3 I’m researching home charging options and found this thread.

I’m unsure whether to go for the Tesla WCU as it’s not covered in the OLEV grant, or opt for an alternative in which case I’ve narrowed down to the Pod Point and Anderson options. And I have a few questions.

• I’d like to get this sorted in advance of the car being delivered. What information do I need to order a home charger unit? Basically, having ordered the car can I order a home charger now or do I need to wait for anything specific? Order Agreement
• My parking space is the other side of the house to the electric meter and fuse box. Am I right in assuming that a cable can be run to the home charger unit externally? Unless you have a garage, cables will run externally
• What should I look for in my fuse box to check that it has capacity to add the home charger? I’ve no idea! 100A incoming fuse. Preferably spare 32A circuit breaker but your installer should be able to advise
• I understand that the Tesla UMC charger and cable is provided with the car. Am I able to use this to charge the car when visiting family just by plugging it into a standard electric socket? Yes

Thanks all.

See this

https://assets.publishing.service.g.../772404/evhs-guidance-for-customers-v-2.3.pdf

You need to complete Annex D. I've placed an order for grant-funded installation using my order agreement number.

 

[vitesse]

OK understood. If I opt for the Tesla home charger though, which doesn’t qualify for the OLEV grant, can I order it now and get on with it?

Of course! There is no restriction apart from requiring a qualified electrician to do the work

 

[interbear]

Most houses have a 100 AMP master fuse. If you have smaller than that, or lots of power showers (or Arc Welding gear!!) then that might be an issue. (Usually solved by fitting a device which stops the car charging if other household usage would take it over the max fuse limit

If you have breakers (which Trip and you can Reset), rather than fuse wire, that's a good sign

Ok thanks for the explanation. I checked the fuse box and it looks to be a 100 AMP master fuse. It does have a trip/breaker switch. So far so good. In terms of spare capacity am I correct in assuming that the empty slots in the fuse box numbered 3-5 in this pic could be used for the home charger?

 

[KennethS]

OK understood. If I opt for the Tesla home charger though, which doesn’t qualify for the OLEV grant, can I order it now and get on with it?

Yes, if you forgo the grant you are free to choose any charge point and electrician you want to do the install. I went this route, using the Tesla WC and a local electrician who specialises in EV charge point installations.