Curious. Is this the Prodigy P2 or P3 controller or something else? I haven't heard any reports of this; I wonder if all of the clips that hold that panel are properly seated and undamaged.
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Installing a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller in a Model X
- Thread starter adelman
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- Driving Dynamics Model X
Curious. Is this the Prodigy P2 or P3 controller or something else? I haven't heard any reports of this; I wonder if all of the clips that hold that panel are properly seated and undamaged.
I installed my P2 a month ago and haven't seen any sag. I keep meaning to pull it off when out of use, but forget.
Instructions were excellent, FWIW.
CmdrThor
Active Member
It is the P3. As far as I can tell all of the clips are still in place. I imagine the P3 must be a little heavier than the P2.
Roamer
Member
Roamer
Member
Worked great. Installed a P3
I am surprised that your P3 controller installation caused that panel to sag while Ken's and ohmman's P2 installations on the same panel did not sag. The weight difference between the two controller models doesn't seem like it would be significant. Here is a web page showing both models, but I can't find data on their weights. What is the Difference Between the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 and the P3 Brake Controllers | etrailer.com
Adelman - I just received my new Model X and Tekonsha P3 so may I also have a copy of your installation intructions?
CmdrThor
Active Member
DaddyP713
Member
Thanks for the detailed instructions! It made installing a P3 in my 2017 Model X fairly easy!
I ended up not using the screws they provided to mount the bracket to the plastic. Instead, I put a metal backing plate on the top side, and used machine screws with washers, and some blue Loctite on the threads for the nut so it doesn't vibrate loose.
I ended up not using the screws they provided to mount the bracket to the plastic. Instead, I put a metal backing plate on the top side, and used machine screws with washers, and some blue Loctite on the threads for the nut so it doesn't vibrate loose.
Huge THANK YOU to @adelman for his excellent instructions. I just ordered his recommended butt connectors (had to explain to my spouse that yes, that is really what they are called, be serious) and will be doing the installation once I receive them. Got my Tekonsha P3 last week.
I’ve been waiting over a year to do this. Hope to be taking delivery of my Alto camper trailer in March.
I’ve been waiting over a year to do this. Hope to be taking delivery of my Alto camper trailer in March.
Impressive! I’ll think about that...
Today I installed a Tekonsha P3 following the excellent instruction document posted at http://www.adelman.com/model-x-brake-controller.pdf
It was easier than I expected. Even so, I think I read every step three times before performing the action, especially the part about splicing the two pigtails together. Used the recommended Digikey butt splices. The only splice that wasn’t easy was the Tesla blue 16 AWG to the Tekonsha blue 12 AWG. It was hard to crimp the WM1859-ND step down enough to make a firm connection to the smaller wire. I used some Visegrips and really had to apply a lot of force. But I think I got it secure enough. Love the built-in shrink tubing that is part of the Digikey butt splices. Makes for a neat job. Added two small zip ties to keep the wires together. See photo below, taken before I put everything back in place.
Note: page 7 of the instructions state that the two blue clips on the rear corners of the drivers footwell cover will stay attached to the vehicle when you remove the cover. My right side clip easily came out with the cover piece, it didn’t stay in its hole. I suspect it wasn’t fully inserted at the factory. The left side clip was fully inserted in its hole, and so tight that I could not remove it. I left it in place. Had no difficulty putting the cover back in place without breaking anything, which is not my usual mode of operation.
I can’t test the controller yet because I won’t have my trailer until this March. The P3 display is easily visible through the lower left opening in the steering wheel.
It was easier than I expected. Even so, I think I read every step three times before performing the action, especially the part about splicing the two pigtails together. Used the recommended Digikey butt splices. The only splice that wasn’t easy was the Tesla blue 16 AWG to the Tekonsha blue 12 AWG. It was hard to crimp the WM1859-ND step down enough to make a firm connection to the smaller wire. I used some Visegrips and really had to apply a lot of force. But I think I got it secure enough. Love the built-in shrink tubing that is part of the Digikey butt splices. Makes for a neat job. Added two small zip ties to keep the wires together. See photo below, taken before I put everything back in place.
Note: page 7 of the instructions state that the two blue clips on the rear corners of the drivers footwell cover will stay attached to the vehicle when you remove the cover. My right side clip easily came out with the cover piece, it didn’t stay in its hole. I suspect it wasn’t fully inserted at the factory. The left side clip was fully inserted in its hole, and so tight that I could not remove it. I left it in place. Had no difficulty putting the cover back in place without breaking anything, which is not my usual mode of operation.
I can’t test the controller yet because I won’t have my trailer until this March. The P3 display is easily visible through the lower left opening in the steering wheel.
FYI, you might consider industrial strength velcro. I used some of that to mount a multi-way 12V splitter to the side of the center console in my previous car. It looks like a bunch of hooks on both pieces (both parts are identical) and it doesn't seem like it would even fit together, but once you press it together, it provides a really solid hold.
Unfortunately, when my wife took it in for other service, the "helpful" tech drilled it in place -_-
That probably is the best approach for mounting a brake controller.
Can you show us some close up photos of how it is mounted?
santana338
Member
Can anybody comment on the brightness of the P2 vs. the P3? We have a P2 in our current tow vehicle (it stays connected all the time) and the bright blue LED light bothers my wife so she put a couple of layers of painters tape over it. Is the P3 just as bright?
santana338
Member
There was also an old request for someone to confirm the 12V at the pigtail I'd like to know if 12V is available at the trailer connector and if so does anyone know how much current it can carry? We have a fridge in our pop-up and I can currently run it from the tow vehicle while driving. Is this possible in the Model X?