Product price aside...Is it the same price to run a Nema 14-50 Outlet vs. Hardwire the Wall connector...Have no line like this in garage so am curious to know if the only reason to not due the wall connector is because of the $200 difference (approx) in product...Is the electrician labor basically the same?
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Installing Wall Charger vs Mobile Connector
- Thread starter YoYoMa
- Start date
I would install wall connector if the electrician cost is the same.
Mobile connector is a good option for those who already have an outlet to use.
Mobile connector is a good option for those who already have an outlet to use.
Labor is about the same but the wire will cost a few cents more per foot for Wall Connector.. Wall Connector will be a 60A line for 48A charging. Mobile is a 40A or 50A line for 32A charging. For mobile, you need a wall plate and outlet box/outlet and possibly a GFCI where you live. Wall Connector is direct wire so you save those parts.
If new wire, future proof yourself with 60A line and breaker.
If new wire, future proof yourself with 60A line and breaker.
ATPMSD
Active Member
Wire: you need 3-conductor wire for the NEMA 14-50 versus 2-conductor wire for the wall connector, so the cost of wire is less.
The mobile connector charges at 32A on a 50A line, the wall connector charges at 40A on a 50A line and if you chose to run a 60A line it charges at 48A.
The mobile connector has a 20’ cable while the wall connector’s is 24’
The wall connector is updated via WiFi and at some point it will offer additional features. It also includes power sharing, which was an update delivered by WiFi.
And the cost
Mobile connector: outlet ($80), GFCI breaker ($150), mobile connector ($230), and some sort of cable management system for say $35 totals $495.
The wall connector is $425 + a $15 breaker, which totals $440, so it is cheaper as well.
The mobile connector charges at 32A on a 50A line, the wall connector charges at 40A on a 50A line and if you chose to run a 60A line it charges at 48A.
The mobile connector has a 20’ cable while the wall connector’s is 24’
The wall connector is updated via WiFi and at some point it will offer additional features. It also includes power sharing, which was an update delivered by WiFi.
And the cost
Mobile connector: outlet ($80), GFCI breaker ($150), mobile connector ($230), and some sort of cable management system for say $35 totals $495.
The wall connector is $425 + a $15 breaker, which totals $440, so it is cheaper as well.
davewill
Active Member
Another thing worth asking yourself is whether you need a mobile connector for any other reason. I would argue that most people do not. It would be useful if you want to be able to plug in at a relative's house, or perhaps a work location that doesn't have actual EV charging installed, or if you like to camp where there might be RV hookups and want to plug in there.
I've had three different EVs over the last 11 years, and I've had a portable EVSE for all of them. The number of times I've used them can be counted on my fingers, and not at all in the last 5 years.
I've had three different EVs over the last 11 years, and I've had a portable EVSE for all of them. The number of times I've used them can be counted on my fingers, and not at all in the last 5 years.
Wall Charger is more versatile if you decide to install another outlet for a 2nd EV in the future. Tesla Wall Charger can be set up for LOAD SHARING, so you don't overload your main breaker. You can set it to load share for instance 60 amps total between both chargers. If one EV is full, the other can utilize full 48amps level 2 charging. If they're both empty, they'll share the 60amps they have allocated.
For a wall outlet and the mobile charger, you'll need to buy an additional device to plug into your outlet and plug in both mobile chargers. Length may be an issue and also if 1 car has to park outside the house.
For a wall outlet and the mobile charger, you'll need to buy an additional device to plug into your outlet and plug in both mobile chargers. Length may be an issue and also if 1 car has to park outside the house.
All good Info and much appreciate it...I'm thinking since the wire has to be run to panel anyway and the cost to do that would be roughly the same I'd go with the Wall Charger...
14-50 would require an expensive GFCI breaker and an expensive higher quality outlet for continuous current safety. All in all, the wall connector is a better alternative. One less wire, no GFCI, no expensive outlet on top of convenience charging should make the decision simple.
exxxviii
Member
Estimates are all over the place - from $700 to a couple thousand dollars. It is driven by length of run (cost of materials), ease of access (running externally or along joists versus fishing internally through walls), additional work at the breaker box, etc.
ATPMSD
Active Member
Get several quotes. Many electricians overcharge, especially for Tesla power.
ATPMSD
Active Member
Be sure to also check for State incentives, A quick search found this (I think it is applicable?)
Also, check with your power company for time of use power plans since you can charge the car in the evenings.
Also, check with your power company for time of use power plans since you can charge the car in the evenings.
gx9901
Active Member
My breaker panel is in the basement and running the wiring to my garage seemed like a relatively difficult job. I think it cost me around $2,200 to run the wiring for the wall connector.
In contrast, my mom's breaker panel is right in the garage, so I think the wiring for her EVSE was around $1,200.
Very well stated. I'm going to chime in like I always do about 14-50 outlets it's an unnecessary additional failure points in my opinion. Plus it adds additional complexity due to requirement of GFCI breaker to protect the 14-50 outlet. I have seen too many melted plugs over the years.
For a permanent home charging install always go with a hard wired EV Charger.
There's a consideration here since they don't sell 2 wire 4/2 cable. They only sell 6/2, 6/3 or 4/3 romex. Romex NM-B 6awg at 60C is only rated for 55 amps. So you need to run 4awg(70 amps at 60c) to have a 60 amp breaker for maximum 48amp charging. For that, you'll need either THHN wire through a conduit tube like smurf tube to run 2 wires + 8awg ground or you'll need to buy 4/3 romex.
You can run THHN MC cable in 6/2 + ground configuration for a simpler install which isn't super expensive. That's rated for 75amps@90c. However, you'll need to check your breaker specifications because that may only be rated for 60c or 75c so it's safest to just stick with 4awg to be safe and sure.
If you limit yourself to a 50 amp breaker(you can set the charge rate to 40 amp max on the charger), then yes 6/2 Romex is just fine.
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ATPMSD
Active Member
4/3 NM-B is pretty thick and may be difficult to use. #6 THWN is easier to work with but, as noted, must be run in a conduit. THWN is rated at 65 AMP and I suggest is a better choice than THHN 90c wire, which in likely not acceptable in a home environment.
When you get quotes make sure the electrician understands the wire must be rated at 60 amps or above, and that a 55 amp wire is not acceptable.
When you get quotes make sure the electrician understands the wire must be rated at 60 amps or above, and that a 55 amp wire is not acceptable.
Good, some guys with wire knowledge checking in. Reading the early posts made me wonder a bit.
Cost:
Wire gauge gets Expen$$ive fast. So does the hassle (think time) of working with it. A hard-wired 60 amp rated to 48 will cost substantially more than a 14-50 rated to 40amps. Not "a few pennies". The installed cost could double.
It gets harder. The electricians are only going to carry so many gauges in spools. You insist on hardwired 60amp on copper? You may well get to pay for 100' of precut even though they actually needed 75'. At perhaps $15 a foot.
But finding a shop keeping 1000' rolls of 4/3 NM? That's possible. So is somebody keeping something like 2-2-2-3, but it's a LOT bigger and harder to work with. Labor is NOT cheap, especially if its heavy enough to push to a 2, or 3, man crew because the wire will literally pull a guy off a ladder.
So yea, a few things to maybe nitpick on, but the last few guys should be listened too for they obviously (and correctly) understand gauge vs insulation and temp better than the average bear.
Finally I can say this:
1) 14-50? I use them a lot. Make sure you buy commercial grade receptables!!!
2) Personally I'll buy a mobile wired and a wall. If the mobile remains back-ordered you can be certain I'll stick a 14-50 plug on the wall and move forward. I'll just turn down the OBC.
3) Ground fault? All depends on where you live. Many, if not most, cities and towns are slow to adopt NEC code updates. I'd have to go look but GFCI wasn't required on 240V until somewhat recently (maybe 2018?). I would not put one on a 14-50 unless I had too.
Cost:
Wire gauge gets Expen$$ive fast. So does the hassle (think time) of working with it. A hard-wired 60 amp rated to 48 will cost substantially more than a 14-50 rated to 40amps. Not "a few pennies". The installed cost could double.
It gets harder. The electricians are only going to carry so many gauges in spools. You insist on hardwired 60amp on copper? You may well get to pay for 100' of precut even though they actually needed 75'. At perhaps $15 a foot.
But finding a shop keeping 1000' rolls of 4/3 NM? That's possible. So is somebody keeping something like 2-2-2-3, but it's a LOT bigger and harder to work with. Labor is NOT cheap, especially if its heavy enough to push to a 2, or 3, man crew because the wire will literally pull a guy off a ladder.
So yea, a few things to maybe nitpick on, but the last few guys should be listened too for they obviously (and correctly) understand gauge vs insulation and temp better than the average bear.
Finally I can say this:
1) 14-50? I use them a lot. Make sure you buy commercial grade receptables!!!
2) Personally I'll buy a mobile wired and a wall. If the mobile remains back-ordered you can be certain I'll stick a 14-50 plug on the wall and move forward. I'll just turn down the OBC.
3) Ground fault? All depends on where you live. Many, if not most, cities and towns are slow to adopt NEC code updates. I'd have to go look but GFCI wasn't required on 240V until somewhat recently (maybe 2018?). I would not put one on a 14-50 unless I had too.
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