Indeed. On a remote location I would like to have 230V (Europe!) and about 500W available when I need it. If my big 85kWh battery can provide that in a safe way by using those terminals I will.
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Yes true I kind of forgot about those cases. If you want to have power in a remote location, you might want extra power.
Haxster
Member
The metal conductor inside fuses gets hot and melts when passing too much current. Typically, this actually takes place at 35-50% above their rating. So a 50A fuse could likely pass 60A. But, it would be on the edge of failing. And the heat stress on the metal conductor inside could make it more susceptible to a below 50A or surge current failure in the future.
And the exterior temperature influences this as wel, right?
Meaning that when freezing you might be able to draw 60A where in the summer heat it fails at 55A.
So 50A is something we should take as the upper limit.
Haxster
Member
Yes, generally.
80% of the fuse rating is a good conservative number. This allows for minor spikes and, yes, temperature issues.
Other factors to consider are how critical it would be if the fuse blew, how hard it is to replace, how expensive it is… and if you have a spare in hand.
I believe the US model Outlander PHEV only has a 1,500W inverter, regardless of how many outlets are there. However, it is powered directly from the high voltage battery, so that's good. I think it's only included on the GT trim though.
Lon12
Member
Does anyone know if you can charge an EV from that 1,500W inverter? Would be a good option in case you have to rescue someone.... like my son driving the Leaf lol.
Sure, a 120V EVSE at 10 or 12 amps should work. The Outlander also has towing capacity. Just sayin'.Does anyone know if you can charge an EV from that 1,500W inverter? Would be a good option in case you have to rescue someone.... like my son driving the Leaf lol.
Yes the battery management system is always active so I assume it will circulate the coolant if necessary. I have to test it but I'm pretty sure it does because the DCDC converter is always active and might need cooling.
I just spent some time at my car while it was parked. I could hear the coolant pump turn on several time without any specific event triggering it. I'm convinced it will run the coolant pump if the DCDC converter needs cooling.
I didn't hear the fan going. The DC-DC converter is about 90% efficient. If we pull 1500 Watt it would produce aprox 150 Watt of heat. Nothing to worry about.
That will be great.
At the moment, I'm testing the 12V battery voltage while putting a small load (5A constant current) when Energy saving off.
Previous tests show that the car will turn the DC-DC off from 23:00 to 5:00 every day at no load sleep. When there is a 5A load, the car is still trying to turn the DC-DC off but wake up by the low voltage (12.2V) of the battery.
I'm guessing that if the load is heavier, the DC-DC will not turn off. I'll test 10A load tonight.
In the previous post, when I said "the power is up" , I meant the power is large such as 1500W.
I tested it with a 600 Watt load (50 Amp). It keeps the DC-DC converter running.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
Yes, Blue is the Voltage, Orange is DC-DC output Ampere. And there are more similar tests where Red is the battery Ampere.
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