IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
Not sure where you mean with “in the bay.” San Francisco Bay? Chesapeake Bay? Clearly I’m confused by what bay we’re referring to!
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Not sure where you mean with “in the bay.” San Francisco Bay? Chesapeake Bay? Clearly I’m confused by what bay we’re referring to!
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
I hear ya. For me though, it’s about having a car that I want to drive and don’t artificially limit myself.
Here’s a comparison. Do we need a car that goes 200 miles on a charge? No. Statistics dictate that most people don’t drive over about 30 miles the vast majority of the time. So why did we spend all that extra money for a car with a bigger battery? Because we wanted that capability even if we didn’t use it that much.
I see DC fast charging much the same way. I will not use it much. But when I do want to use it, I can. I don’t have to worry about can I make it in a reasonable amount of time. I don’t have to worry about having to figure out another car to take. I can just go.
It also future proofs the car a bit. Makes it more like a modern Tesla.
Under the rear clam/rear trunk/near the PEM.Not sure where you mean with “in the bay.” San Francisco Bay? Chesapeake Bay? Clearly I’m confused by what bay we’re referring to!
if I had anywhere near 200miles of range at 65mph, no HVAC on, no seat heaters, no stereo... I’d be set. Crazy to think these used to be 200mi+
I still get 350km on range mode, I use it way to often but I figure it’s only in the top end for 30 minutes. I drive everywhere in range now because I lost my charger. It’s amazing how one charger less means you have to charge on the road, that makes fast charging very attractive.
Following in the footsteps of @Stefan T and @ViperDoc with Electrified Garage, I had Javier @ExecMotorwerkz relocate my CHAdeMO charge port inlet behind the license plate of my 2.5 Sport. This is definitely the way to go if you're doing one of these JdeMO installations as it puts the port at a better height than the standard location and leaves your rear diffuser untouched.
Some important installation considerations before you begin:
1. You'll need to cut your trunk tub.
There's no way around this due to the position of the thick gauge high voltage cables coming out of the inlet (see Figs. 1 - 2). If someone knows of a 90 deg connection for the port as @drewski mentioned here, pls share with the class. IMPORTANT: the orange HV positions shown in the photo are reversed. We had the port installed upside down and needed to rotate it 180 deg. DO NOT install it this way or, as @TonyWilliams warned us... "things could go boom!" Do not let things go boom.
Figure 1. Looking down into trunk from rear of vehicle. Hole cut in the bottom aft section of tub to accommodate HV cables. Note: cable and pin positions show are reversed as the port was initially fitted upside down.
Figure 2. View from below the vehicle with rear belly pan removed. Hole cut to accommodate the bend of the 2 AWG HV cables in tub at top of photo. Dual motor fan unit at bottom.
2. You'll need to fashion a way to cover the hole in your trunk tub.
Unless you want dirt, dust and possibly moisture shooting up into your trunk, you'll need to make something to plug the hole. @ViperDoc was kind enough to send Javier and me photos of the cover plate Chad at EG did for his tub. Javier took it one step further and actually flocked the cover to match the rest of the tub liner (see Fig. 3).
Figure 3. Flocked cover plate for trunk tub hole. An @ExecMotorwerkz exclusive!
3. You'll need to cut your trunk cover panel.
The trunk panel which covers the storage slots at the bottom of the tub will need to be cut to accommodate the newly installed cover plate. Make sure to install the cover plate first before measuring for the cut dimensions to ensure a snug fit (see Fig. 4).
Figure 4. Trunk compartment viewed from rear port side of vehicle showing the cut trunk panel.
4. You'll need @Stefan T's inlet port kit or you'll need to fabricate one yourself.
This is needed to provide some mounting points plus rigidity to the CHAdeMO inlet port. Without it, you simply have the flimsy bumper plastic to support the weight of the charge handle which can be quite heavy. PM Stefan directly per his post here if you're interested. Reposting one of @drewski's earlier photos for reference (see Fig 5). Note: the kit includes hinges for Euro plates. If you don't need them, he sells a version of the kit sans hinges.
Figure 5. @Stefan T's CHAdeMO relocation kit. Includes inlet bracket, template, Euro license plate brackets and assorted bolts.
5. You'll need to cut holes in your bumper.
Use the template from Stefan's kit to cut one large hole for the inlet port. You'll then need one smallish hole for the LED indicator/button and four small holes for the attaching bolts (see Fig. 6). Note: you'll need addl. holes if you plan on using the same bracket the EG team did for Viper Doc's installation.
Figure 6. Required holes cut out of the bumper bumper include large opening for inlet, LED indicator/button and attaching bolts (x4). Note that the existing license plate mounting holes were used with the bracket shown so no addl. drilling of holes was required.
6. You'll need to find a suitable flip down bracket.
There are a few options here. If you're in the EU, you can use the ones from Stefan's kit. If you're in the US, you can order the same 1987-'95 Jeep Wranger bracket EG used for Viper Doc's installation here (OE P/N 55007403). Note: this will require you to fabricate a spacer and drill addl. holes to affix it.
Another option is the stainless steel bracket made by Clevercraft I found on eBay here which works great for this application. There's no spring loaded mechanism to worry about and the existing license plate mounting holes can be used so no addl. drilling required. The bracket simply snaps into place when closed and drops down when opened. There's ample clearance for the CHAdeMO handle (see Fig. 7)
Figure 7. JdeMO port with CHAdeMO handle/connector attached. Note the ample clearance between the handle and the license plate. License plate bracket by Clevercraft.
Some important installation considerations before you begin:
1. You'll need to cut your trunk tub.
There's no way around this due to the position of the thick gauge high voltage cables coming out of the inlet (see Figs. 1 - 2). If someone knows of a 90 deg connection for the port as @drewski mentioned here, pls share with the class. IMPORTANT: the orange HV positions shown in the photo are reversed. We had the port installed upside down and needed to rotate it 180 deg. DO NOT install it this way or, as @TonyWilliams warned us... "things could go boom!" Do not let things go boom.
Figure 1. Looking down into trunk from rear of vehicle. Hole cut in the bottom aft section of tub to accommodate HV cables. Note: cable and pin positions show are reversed as the port was initially fitted upside down.
Figure 2. View from below the vehicle with rear belly pan removed. Hole cut to accommodate the bend of the 2 AWG HV cables in tub at top of photo. Dual motor fan unit at bottom.
2. You'll need to fashion a way to cover the hole in your trunk tub.
Unless you want dirt, dust and possibly moisture shooting up into your trunk, you'll need to make something to plug the hole. @ViperDoc was kind enough to send Javier and me photos of the cover plate Chad at EG did for his tub. Javier took it one step further and actually flocked the cover to match the rest of the tub liner
(see Fig. 3).Figure 3. Flocked cover plate for trunk tub hole. An @ExecMotorwerkz exclusive!
3. You'll need to cut your trunk cover panel.
The trunk panel which covers the storage slots at the bottom of the tub will need to be cut to accommodate the newly installed cover plate. Make sure to install the cover plate first before measuring for the cut dimensions to ensure a snug fit (see Fig. 4).
Figure 4. Trunk compartment viewed from rear port side of vehicle showing the cut trunk panel.
4. You'll need @Stefan T's inlet port kit or you'll need to fabricate one yourself.
This is needed to provide some mounting points plus rigidity to the CHAdeMO inlet port. Without it, you simply have the flimsy bumper plastic to support the weight of the charge handle which can be quite heavy. PM Stefan directly per his post here if you're interested. Reposting one of @drewski's earlier photos for reference (see Fig 5). Note: the kit includes hinges for Euro plates. If you don't need them, he sells a version of the kit sans hinges.
Figure 5. @Stefan T's CHAdeMO relocation kit. Includes inlet bracket, template, Euro license plate brackets and assorted bolts.
5. You'll need to cut holes in your bumper.
Use the template from Stefan's kit to cut one large hole for the inlet port. You'll then need one smallish hole for the LED indicator/button and four small holes for the attaching bolts (see Fig. 6). Note: you'll need addl. holes if you plan on using the same bracket the EG team did for Viper Doc's installation.
Figure 6. Required holes cut out of the bumper bumper include large opening for inlet, LED indicator/button and attaching bolts (x4). Note that the existing license plate mounting holes were used with the bracket shown so no addl. drilling of holes was required.
6. You'll need to find a suitable flip down bracket.
There are a few options here. If you're in the EU, you can use the ones from Stefan's kit. If you're in the US, you can order the same 1987-'95 Jeep Wranger bracket EG used for Viper Doc's installation here (OE P/N 55007403). Note: this will require you to fabricate a spacer and drill addl. holes to affix it.
Another option is the stainless steel bracket made by Clevercraft I found on eBay here which works great for this application. There's no spring loaded mechanism to worry about and the existing license plate mounting holes can be used so no addl. drilling required. The bracket simply snaps into place when closed and drops down when opened. There's ample clearance for the CHAdeMO handle (see Fig. 7)
Figure 7. JdeMO port with CHAdeMO handle/connector attached. Note the ample clearance between the handle and the license plate. License plate bracket by Clevercraft.
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IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
actually, for the next version, we should be able to avoid that. Tony at QC charge, who I’ve been working with to handle the bulk order, is redesigning things and believes he can do it without cutting into the tub.
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
For those of you interested in getting in on the bulk buy, I posted an update tonight to the Google Group. We've got 20 interested people so far, so we're getting close. Tony will be taking deposits soon. If you want to be part of the order, DM me.
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
Who on the forums is using an email that starts with "jackbowers5807"? I'm looking to identify him since the email address he gave for the bulk buy is bouncing. Don't want him to miss out. Please DM me if you have the info.
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
It's a holiday weekend in the U.S. so I decided to go for a long drive here in SoCal. I haven't done one in a while – at least for the past 2+ years due to the pandemic and the car sitting for months awaiting service – so I figured I'd give it a go assuming I'd be able to DCFC out in the wild without issue. I ended up having to cut things short but turned the experience into a bit of a local EVSE research assignment. If you haven't used your system in a while, here are my finding as a PSA for fellow JdeMO users...
TL;DR (a) check/clean your CAN bus connection, (b) don't use ABB charging units, and (c) seek out newer system installations.
1. If you're unable to charge, check your CAN bus diagnostic port connection for oxidation
During my outing, I encountered problems with previously confirmed functioning L3 charging stations seemingly no longer working with my car. The handshake would complete successfully but the session would abort immediately upon starting – with 0kWh transferred
I tested at three different locations/providers – EVGo, Electrify America, Shell Recharge – and none of them worked so it had to be my car/system. I figured I'd start with the CAN bus connections in the passenger footwell since those were the most easily accessible and nothing had changed with the setup since it last worked properly.
After getting the car home, I disconnected the JdeMO CAN bus Y-splitter connector, sprayed all connections with electric contact cleaner, and then reconnected the ports. Fortunately, that seemed to do the trick
and it was a relief that it was such a simple fix. Granted, YYMV but since some of our installations have been in place for 6-7 years, checking for oxidation is a good place to begin if you've experienced this problem.
2. Certain DCFC units manufactured by ABB are no longer compatible with JdeMO
The ubiquitous ABB Terra 94 units typically found at EVGo stations used to work great with no issue. Sadly, that's no longer the case
I confirmed this with Tony and he's been in contact with ABB to see what can be done. He suspects it may be software related.
Service Provider: EVGo
Location: Grocery Outlet | Rosemead, CA
Manufacturer: ABB
Model: Terra 94
Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and review PlugShare photos when you plan your DCFC stops and check to see if you can spot the "ABB" in the top left corner of the unit you plan to use. If so, find another system manufactured by someone else. I've tried at least three of these ABB units and none of them worked.
Note: most newer EVGo multi-unit installations no longer seem to be including these older ABB units (see example in the compatible list below) so perhaps that will address things. However, I've noticed that the number of available CHAdeMO cables and connectors are now extremely limited – sometimes only offering a single unit with this connector – so plan your trips and check availability accordingly. FWIW, this makes sense given the proposed phase out of the older protocol in favor of CCS and/or NACS.
3. Confirmed compatible Roadster JdeMO service providers & systems
After getting the JdeMO back up and running – and having discovered the ABB incompatibility issues as mentioned – I decided to do a local area DCFC safari to find out which exact providers and systems still worked. Here's a list and some photos I took of confirmed working L3 service providers & charging units – in the greater Los Angeles, CA area for this test, at least – that appear to still be compatible with the JdeMO system so you have them for reference when checking photos on PlugShare.
Service Provider: EVGo
Location: Conejo Gateway Plaza | Thousand Oaks, CA
Manufacturer: Delta Electronics Inc
Model: City Charger 100 kWh (EVHU104UPAB07EG)
Service Provider: EVGo
Location: Conejo Gateway Plaza | Thousand Oaks, CA
Manufacturer: Signet
Model: SHDP350K-NCC-PS
Service Provider: Electrify America
Location: Ralphs Fresh Fare | Encino, CA
Manufacturer: Signet
Model: HDP350K-NCC
Servicer Provider: Shell Recharge
Location: Arroyo Charging Hub | Pasadena, CA
Manufacturer: Tritium
Model: Veefil RT175-S (TRI125-175-02)
Service Provider: PowerFlex
Location: California Institute of Technology – N. Wilson Garage #1 | Pasadena, CA
Manufacturer: Tritium
Model: Veefil RT50
TL;DR (a) check/clean your CAN bus connection, (b) don't use ABB charging units, and (c) seek out newer system installations.
1. If you're unable to charge, check your CAN bus diagnostic port connection for oxidation
During my outing, I encountered problems with previously confirmed functioning L3 charging stations seemingly no longer working with my car. The handshake would complete successfully but the session would abort immediately upon starting – with 0kWh transferred
I tested at three different locations/providers – EVGo, Electrify America, Shell Recharge – and none of them worked so it had to be my car/system. I figured I'd start with the CAN bus connections in the passenger footwell since those were the most easily accessible and nothing had changed with the setup since it last worked properly.
After getting the car home, I disconnected the JdeMO CAN bus Y-splitter connector, sprayed all connections with electric contact cleaner, and then reconnected the ports. Fortunately, that seemed to do the trick
and it was a relief that it was such a simple fix. Granted, YYMV but since some of our installations have been in place for 6-7 years, checking for oxidation is a good place to begin if you've experienced this problem.2. Certain DCFC units manufactured by ABB are no longer compatible with JdeMO
The ubiquitous ABB Terra 94 units typically found at EVGo stations used to work great with no issue. Sadly, that's no longer the case
I confirmed this with Tony and he's been in contact with ABB to see what can be done. He suspects it may be software related.Service Provider: EVGo
Location: Grocery Outlet | Rosemead, CA
Manufacturer: ABB
Model: Terra 94
Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and review PlugShare photos when you plan your DCFC stops and check to see if you can spot the "ABB" in the top left corner of the unit you plan to use. If so, find another system manufactured by someone else. I've tried at least three of these ABB units and none of them worked.
Note: most newer EVGo multi-unit installations no longer seem to be including these older ABB units (see example in the compatible list below) so perhaps that will address things. However, I've noticed that the number of available CHAdeMO cables and connectors are now extremely limited – sometimes only offering a single unit with this connector – so plan your trips and check availability accordingly. FWIW, this makes sense given the proposed phase out of the older protocol in favor of CCS and/or NACS.
3. Confirmed compatible Roadster JdeMO service providers & systems
After getting the JdeMO back up and running – and having discovered the ABB incompatibility issues as mentioned – I decided to do a local area DCFC safari to find out which exact providers and systems still worked. Here's a list and some photos I took of confirmed working L3 service providers & charging units – in the greater Los Angeles, CA area for this test, at least – that appear to still be compatible with the JdeMO system so you have them for reference when checking photos on PlugShare.
Service Provider: EVGo
Location: Conejo Gateway Plaza | Thousand Oaks, CA
Manufacturer: Delta Electronics Inc
Model: City Charger 100 kWh (EVHU104UPAB07EG)
Service Provider: EVGo
Location: Conejo Gateway Plaza | Thousand Oaks, CA
Manufacturer: Signet
Model: SHDP350K-NCC-PS
Service Provider: Electrify America
Location: Ralphs Fresh Fare | Encino, CA
Manufacturer: Signet
Model: HDP350K-NCC
Servicer Provider: Shell Recharge
Location: Arroyo Charging Hub | Pasadena, CA
Manufacturer: Tritium
Model: Veefil RT175-S (TRI125-175-02)
Service Provider: PowerFlex
Location: California Institute of Technology – N. Wilson Garage #1 | Pasadena, CA
Manufacturer: Tritium
Model: Veefil RT50
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
That's a great report, @Roadster . You mentioned that you spoke with Tony about the ABB issue. Next time you speak with him, perhaps I could trouble you to ask him when he's going to refund the deposits of the 15 or so people who ordered JdeMOs from him that he decided he was not going to build. Most of us are still waiting for a refund some years later. He has promised them, but no checks. Definitely not good business on his part, so I'm hoping he's going to do the right thing by everyone.
Will do. I'm really sorry this hasn't worked out for you and the others 
I do hope he'll make good on it and actually deliver them as it's truly a practical product and if he can get the CCS to work and future-proof things, even better. I remember asking him about the group buy a few years ago when the pandemic was in full swing and he said the supply shortages were severely delaying component deliveries. However, I do recall seeing a Facebook post last year where he had just installed a system in a customer's car so perhaps there's hope
I do hope he'll make good on it and actually deliver them as it's truly a practical product and if he can get the CCS to work and future-proof things, even better. I remember asking him about the group buy a few years ago when the pandemic was in full swing and he said the supply shortages were severely delaying component deliveries. However, I do recall seeing a Facebook post last year where he had just installed a system in a customer's car so perhaps there's hope
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
Will do. I'm really sorry this hasn't worked out for you and the others
I spoke with him on March 27. In that call he informed me that he had decided not to produce them, either the CHAdeMO version or the CCS version. Hell, with Tesla opening up its chargers as the North American Charging Standard, he could even do that. But it doesn't sound like it's going to happen based upon that conversation. He has made promises to me and others that he will refund the money, but from discussions within the Bulk Buy Group, there have been very few actual refunds (if any). I was willing to cut the guy some slack because of the pandemic. But I also expect people to stand behind their promises, particularly when people have paid $1,000 deposits each. It's really an unfortunate situation, but one that he ultimately needs to come to terms with and start systematically refunding money. It's been about three years now.
Thanks for helping out, @roadster. The group appreciates it!
eHorses
Member
@Roadster,
@IslandRoadster, sorry to hear that you have to deal with that. I had a similar situation with the group seat cover buy. He was a big flake too but I was successful getting my deposit back thru my CC company. Good Luck!
I also havent used my JdeMo in a while.
And after reading your post I am thinking about doing a research assignment myself here in The Netherlands this summer.
There are a lot of new Chademo chargers here in The Netherlands as well.
Thanks for sharing!
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
Is this a product that ANYONE could build from plans or does the research involved mean that only the JdeMO designer can make them? With those BMW CCS inlets being available for purchase from their Parts Dept. I wonder how long it will be before someone puts a CCS port on a Roadster, or better yet a NACS port.
The inlet is not the problem for implementing CCS or CHAdeMO on a car like the Roadster or RAV4 EV that have JdeMO. The problem is the logic in the embedded computer talking to the BMS on one side and the DC Fast Charger on the other. I would very much like to change my RAV4 EV to CCS or NACS, but I don't have the time to program the embedded computer to do it. You could in theory use a standard CCS communication implementation for either CCS or NACS charging port, but you would still have to do the CANbus side to talk to the BMS and make sure that you are telling the charger the right charging current at each and every instant of the charging curve.
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