Not sure where you mean with “in the bay.” San Francisco Bay? Chesapeake Bay? Clearly I’m confused by what bay we’re referring to!
I hear ya. For me though, it’s about having a car that I want to drive and don’t artificially limit myself. Here’s a comparison. Do we need a car that goes 200 miles on a charge? No. Statistics dictate that most people don’t drive over about 30 miles the vast majority of the time. So why did we spend all that extra money for a car with a bigger battery? Because we wanted that capability even if we didn’t use it that much. I see DC fast charging much the same way. I will not use it much. But when I do want to use it, I can. I don’t have to worry about can I make it in a reasonable amount of time. I don’t have to worry about having to figure out another car to take. I can just go. It also future proofs the car a bit. Makes it more like a modern Tesla.
Under the rear clam/rear trunk/near the PEM. if I had anywhere near 200miles of range at 65mph, no HVAC on, no seat heaters, no stereo... I’d be set. Crazy to think these used to be 200mi+
I still get 350km on range mode, I use it way to often but I figure it’s only in the top end for 30 minutes. I drive everywhere in range now because I lost my charger. It’s amazing how one charger less means you have to charge on the road, that makes fast charging very attractive.
If someone is interested in making me an offer I have Tony’s Jademo in the box never opened to be installed on a Roadster. PM me if you are interested.
Following in the footsteps of @Stefan T and @ViperDoc with Electrified Garage, I had Javier @ExecMotorwerkz relocate my CHAdeMO charge port inlet behind the license plate of my 2.5 Sport. This is definitely the way to go if you're doing one of these JdeMO installations as it puts the port at a better height than the standard location and leaves your rear diffuser untouched. Some important installation considerations before you begin: 1. You'll need to cut your trunk tub. There's no way around this due to the position of the thick gauge high voltage cables coming out of the inlet (see Figs. 1 - 2). If someone knows of a 90 deg connection for the port as @drewski mentioned here, pls share with the class. IMPORTANT: the orange HV positions shown in the photo are reversed. We had the port installed upside down and needed to rotate it 180 deg. DO NOT install it this way or, as @TonyWilliams warned us... "things could go boom!" Do not let things go boom. Figure 1. Looking down into trunk from rear of vehicle. Hole cut in the bottom aft section of tub to accommodate HV cables. Note: cable and pin positions show are reversed as the port was initially fitted upside down. Figure 2. View from below the vehicle with rear belly pan removed. Hole cut to accommodate the bend of the 2 AWG HV cables in tub at top of photo. Dual motor fan unit at bottom. 2. You'll need to fashion a way to cover the hole in your trunk tub. Unless you want dirt, dust and possibly moisture shooting up into your trunk, you'll need to make something to plug the hole. @ViperDoc was kind enough to send Javier and me photos of the cover plate Chad at EG did for his tub. Javier took it one step further and actually flocked the cover to match the rest of the tub liner (see Fig. 3). Figure 3. Flocked cover plate for trunk tub hole. An @ExecMotorwerkz exclusive! 3. You'll need to cut your trunk cover panel. The trunk panel which covers the storage slots at the bottom of the tub will need to be cut to accommodate the newly installed cover plate. Make sure to install the cover plate first before measuring for the cut dimensions to ensure a snug fit (see Fig. 4). Figure 4. Trunk compartment viewed from rear port side of vehicle showing the cut trunk panel. 4. You'll need @Stefan T's inlet port kit or you'll need to fabricate one yourself. This is needed to provide some mounting points plus rigidity to the CHAdeMO inlet port. Without it, you simply have the flimsy bumper plastic to support the weight of the charge handle which can be quite heavy. PM Stefan directly per his post here if you're interested. Reposting one of @drewski's earlier photos for reference (see Fig 5). Note: the kit includes hinges for Euro plates. If you don't need them, he sells a version of the kit sans hinges. Figure 5. @Stefan T's CHAdeMO relocation kit. Includes inlet bracket, template, Euro license plate brackets and assorted bolts. 5. You'll need to cut holes in your bumper. Use the template from Stefan's kit to cut one large hole for the inlet port. You'll then need one smallish hole for the LED indicator/button and four small holes for the attaching bolts (see Fig. 6). Note: you'll need addl. holes if you plan on using the same bracket the EG team did for Viper Doc's installation. Figure 6. Required holes cut out of the bumper bumper include large opening for inlet, LED indicator/button and attaching bolts (x4). Note that the existing license plate mounting holes were used with the bracket shown so no addl. drilling of holes was required. 6. You'll need to find a suitable flip down bracket. There are a few options here. If you're in the EU, you can use the ones from Stefan's kit. If you're in the US, you can order the same 1987-'95 Jeep Wranger bracket EG used for Viper Doc's installation here (OE P/N 55007403). Note: this will require you to fabricate a spacer and drill addl. holes to affix it. Another option is the stainless steel bracket made by Clevercraft I found on eBay here which works great for this application. There's no spring loaded mechanism to worry about and the existing license plate mounting holes can be used so no addl. drilling required. The bracket simply snaps into place when closed and drops down when opened. There's ample clearance for the CHAdeMO handle (see Fig. 7) Figure 7. JdeMO port with CHAdeMO handle/connector attached. Note the ample clearance between the handle and the license plate. License plate bracket by Clevercraft.
actually, for the next version, we should be able to avoid that. Tony at QC charge, who I’ve been working with to handle the bulk order, is redesigning things and believes he can do it without cutting into the tub.
For those of you interested in getting in on the bulk buy, I posted an update tonight to the Google Group. We've got 20 interested people so far, so we're getting close. Tony will be taking deposits soon. If you want to be part of the order, DM me.
Who on the forums is using an email that starts with "jackbowers5807"? I'm looking to identify him since the email address he gave for the bulk buy is bouncing. Don't want him to miss out. Please DM me if you have the info.
Never even though the handle would be the same on TMC as the email address! Duh. Good suggestion. I reached out via DM. Appreciate it, @TEG !!