Let the hacking begin... (Model S parts on the bench)

[obrien28]

Hi guys. Is there now a validated pin out of the new connector, and what pins to connect to for battery diagnostics?

I've covered this in a previous post, both in this thread and others, reposting below:

Special note, this is not the pinout for the Model X, although it is similar. The MS has its own dedicated CAN network just for the falcon wing doors. I'll try and find some info on that if I can.

2015 Tesla Diagnostic Connector pinout (connector ref# X437A)
1 = 12V/5A (F219)
2 = CAN4+ Body Fault
3 = CAN4- Body Fault
6 = K/Serial
9 = CAN2 Body +
10 = CAN2 Body-
13 = CAN6+ Chassis
14 = CAN6 Chassis-
18 = CAN3 Powertrain+
19 = CAN3 Powertrain-
20 = GND
original post

 

[petersv]

Thanks, I saw that (and quoted) but the discussion following it was not that conclusive.

So to gain access to the battery info, I have to connect to pins 18 and 19, correct?

 

[obrien28]

Thanks, I saw that (and quoted) but the discussion following it was not that conclusive.

So to gain access to the battery info, I have to connect to pins 18 and 19, correct?

Yes, that is the Powertrain bus which contains the drive inverter and BMS, along with a few other related things.

 

[IAK78612]

I'm uploading this picture with my phone so hopefully it turns out okay.

As you can see, I got 2 Tesla's, one of which has been reduced to a wiring harness, battery, and motor. What you don't see is I also have a 93 rx-7, and an 89 H1 hummve.

If you haven't guessed by now, the teslas will be transplanted into the rx7 and H1.

The problem:. Im a doctor.... I don't really have any training for any of the stuff in doing... (Please skip the "your gonna kill yourself posts". Heard it enough...

I'm currently stuck trying to make sure this thing runs outside of the car before I put it in the RX-7. I have no key fob (salvaged vehicle) and can't get the CID and IC to light up. The brake lights and emergency blinkers to work...

Anyways, I've left out alot of details, but if anyone here wants to partner up and help me with getting this thing running please PM me.

Last but not least I'll be uploading videos of full tare downs of the MS, volt, H1s on YouTube if anyone is interested. Nothing professional, but it's me starting with a Tesla and ending up with the above.

Thanks!!!

 

[supratachophobia]

I'm uploading this picture with my phone so hopefully it turns out okay.

As you can see, I got 2 Tesla's, one of which has been reduced to a wiring harness, battery, and motor. What you don't see is I also have a 93 rx-7, and an 89 H1 hummve.

If you haven't guessed by now, the teslas will be transplanted into the rx7 and H1.

The problem:. Im a doctor.... I don't really have any training for any of the stuff in doing... (Please skip the "your gonna kill yourself posts". Heard it enough...

I'm currently stuck trying to make sure this thing runs outside of the car before I put it in the RX-7. I have no key fob (salvaged vehicle) and can't get the CID and IC to light up. The brake lights and emergency blinkers to work...

Anyways, I've left out alot of details, but if anyone here wants to partner up and help me with getting this thing running please PM me.

Last but not least I'll be uploading videos of full tare downs of the MS, volt, H1s on YouTube if anyone is interested. Nothing professional, but it's me starting with a Tesla and ending up with the above.

Thanks!!!

What kind of evil doctor are you?

 

[NOLA_Mike]

What kind of evil doctor are you?

LOL - my first reaction to that picture is "For god's sake JIM, I'm a DOCTOR not an auto mechanic!"

Good job on the tear down portion of the project though...

Mike

 

[tonitea]

Hi all!

I'm testing again canbus frames in CAN3. After checking the frame with ID 0x0154, it is rear drive unit measurement info, I cannot get the pedal position A (it should be the brake pedal) to work. In the great wk057 pdf document, the Byte 2 with the scaling is used for getting the % of the position for pedal A.

Pedal B works for me pretty well (Byte 3), but for pedal A, I always get 00 for B2.

Anyone could get this value? Also I don't know if it is included in any other canbus message.

Thanks!

 

[scaesare]

I'm uploading this picture with my phone so hopefully it turns out okay.

As you can see, I got 2 Tesla's, one of which has been reduced to a wiring harness, battery, and motor. What you don't see is I also have a 93 rx-7, and an 89 H1 hummve.

If you haven't guessed by now, the teslas will be transplanted into the rx7 and H1.

...

Excellent!

Have you read Otmar's Stretchla blog?

He ultimately abandoned the project, but a lot of good info in there...

 

[IAK78612]

What kind of evil doctor are you?

My wife says Dr. Frankenstein. At which point I decided to call my car "the monster (#1 and #2)"

LOL - my first reaction to that picture is "For god's sake JIM, I'm a DOCTOR not an auto mechanic!"

Good job on the tear down portion of the project though

Mike

Thanks. Long story, but I wont be working until March, so my time is totally dedicated to this project and family! Hopefully, much more to come soon!

Excellent!

Have you read Otmar's Stretchla blog?

He ultimately abandoned the project, but a lot of good info in there...

I did watch several of his YouTube videos out there. I was really excited about his project. I had planned to mirror it with my personal taste, but oh well... I will check his blog as well. Thanks!

I forgot to mention that I think this forum is excellent, and I found it to be very helpful (so far I've made it through the first 46 pages). I don't want to take it over so I'll start a new thread. Main thing I was trying to get out of this thread was accomplish exactly what WK did. "Start" the car with no FOB and wake up the screens.

You guys have been great along with the many others who share their knowledge and experience! You guys are my inspiration to V/Blog all my stuff. A very heartfelt thank you!

 

[lolachampcar]

You just know it was going to happen and I'm all for it.

 

[RScottyL]

Yep. That clicking sound is probably just a sound effect being played through the speakers. I'm hoping someday they add a feature that makes the sound get louder after a certain distance, to help people realize their turn signals have been left on.

Or would be really cool to be able to change the sounds, either globally as a "Windows Theme" or individually!

 

[Ingineer]

I'm uploading this picture with my phone so hopefully it turns out okay.

As you can see, I got 2 Tesla's, one of which has been reduced to a wiring harness, battery, and motor. What you don't see is I also have a 93 rx-7, and an 89 H1 hummve.

If you haven't guessed by now, the teslas will be transplanted into the rx7 and H1.

The problem:. Im a doctor.... I don't really have any training for any of the stuff in doing... (Please skip the "your gonna kill yourself posts". Heard it enough...

I'm currently stuck trying to make sure this thing runs outside of the car before I put it in the RX-7. I have no key fob (salvaged vehicle) and can't get the CID and IC to light up. The brake lights and emergency blinkers to work...

Anyways, I've left out alot of details, but if anyone here wants to partner up and help me with getting this thing running please PM me.

Last but not least I'll be uploading videos of full tare downs of the MS, volt, H1s on YouTube if anyone is interested. Nothing professional, but it's me starting with a Tesla and ending up with the above.

Thanks!!!

I can assist with your project and also bypass the key requirement.

 

[Ingineer]

Or would be really cool to be able to change the sounds, either globally as a "Windows Theme" or individually!

It's easy to change the sounds once you have root. For a prank I changed the turn signal click to my voice saying "blink". I had a great laugh, but by the end of the day, she was ready to kill me! =)

 

[IAK78612]

It's easy to change the sounds once you have root. For a prank I changed the turn signal click to my voice saying "blink". I had a great laugh, but by the end of the day, she was ready to kill me! =)

As a side note, I also wanted to incorporate a "Jetsons" sound effect for the comedy value after roasting your neighborhood supercar.

If anyone has any pointers to get that going, it would be awesome. I wanted to use the throttle position and speed to modulate the frequency of the "breeps" in the jetsons sound track. It would be too funny and fairly easy to do with arduino. Surely this will open up tons of cool options in the future, but without getting the baseline up it's hard to stay motivated.

I'm going to get back crackin' at this and defeat is not an option, so will update you guys with a nice set of project pictures. I don't want to put those out until I'm 100% certain the project will happen. I would hate to put up high expectations and fail in front of my friends, HAHA!

 

[IAK78612]

Here is the sound example, but the sound varies with the speed and tps signal -->

 

[Ingineer]

Best way to do this is by an external device that monitors torque or speed via the CAN bus.

 

[IAK78612]

Best way to do this is by an external device that monitors torque or speed via the CAN bus.

My buddy can do this with ease on "normal" cars, he says. He's not familiar with getting values from the CAN bus. If there was a circuit we could build that sends a value like a sensor would on an older fuel injected car would (like a linear voltage or UART / serial, etc), then the arduino or raspberry pi could easily be set up to respond accordingly.

The friend who's helping with some of the technical nuances is a huge tech enthusiast, so doesn't mind learning this stuff as we go. He dealt heavily with something called "megasquirt" if any of you have heard of it in one of his projects -->

and here's his modified bimmer. His main question is getting the sensor values in real time, to the external board and ultimately out of a cleverly disguised speaker.

</sorry to thread-jack>

 

[obrien28]

My buddy can do this with ease on "normal" cars, he says. He's not familiar with getting values from the CAN bus. If there was a circuit we could build that sends a value like a sensor would on an older fuel injected car would (like a linear voltage or UART / serial, etc), then the arduino or raspberry pi could easily be set up to respond accordingly.

The friend who's helping with some of the technical nuances is a huge tech enthusiast, so doesn't mind learning this stuff as we go. He dealt heavily with something called "megasquirt" if any of you have heard of it in one of his projects -->

and here's his modified bimmer. His main question is getting the sensor values in real time, to the external board and ultimately out of a cleverly disguised speaker.

</sorry to thread-jack>

Better yet, get yourself a Teensy 3.1 (which has a built in CAN controller), slap a transceiver shield on top and you can read the CAN messages for speed or torque (I have those and more) then simply do some audio output with a COTS audio amp and speaker.

Though it would be easier to simply write a python program for the CID to read CAN values over its ethernet interface and play audio directly through the in-car speakers, it's all Ubuntu under the hood, just need a way to get root... I think you're going to have to start a dedicated thread pretty quick.

PS. PM me with an email address and I can help you get the CID/IC screens turned on in a jiffy, it is pretty easy if you have the car wiring harnesses already, just need to make sure you have 3 interfaces connected properly and they will light up without issue.

 

[jvonbokel]

I think you're going to have to start a dedicated thread pretty quick.

If you do, please link to it here so those of us that are interested can follow along!

 

[jvonbokel]

His main question is getting the sensor values in real time, to the external board and ultimately out of a cleverly disguised speaker.

I'm not much help with the sensor values (thankfully I think others have given you solid leads), but I did have an idea on where to hide the speaker... There's a sort of "exhaust port" on each side behind the rear fender. It's where air escapes when you close a door/hatch. You could probably sneak a speaker wire through it and mount the speaker nearby. Routing the wiring to the back might be a pain though.