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Lifted Model Y Owners: Report!

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Sorry to hear you don't think we were of much help. Your alignment printout clearly shows a thrust angle that matches the direction that your car is pulling.

If you had MPP toe arms for example, you could evenly adjust them half hex each, and that would address any pull you're getting. We often use our toe-arms for this type of fine-tuning, because it is 100% repeatable and easy to revert back to original settings, unlike the OEM toe arm. Alignment racks aren't always perfect.

I can assure you it has nothing to do with the lift kit, this isn't a truck with a panhard bar where the axle moves sideways as the ride height changes!
 
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Sorry to hear you don't think we were of much help. Your alignment printout clearly shows a thrust angle that matches the direction that your car is pulling.

If you had MPP toe arms for example, you could evenly adjust them half hex each, and that would address any pull you're getting. We often use our toe-arms for this type of fine-tuning, because it is 100% repeatable and easy to revert back to original settings, unlike the OEM toe arm. Alignment racks aren't always perfect.

I can assure you it has nothing to do with the lift kit, this isn't a truck with a panhard bar where the axle moves sideways as the ride height changes!
I’m not saying it’s because of the lift kit but alignment do change after installing lift kit. Shop tries few times and everything is green. Shop suggested
“ You may want to consider adjustable rear toe arms as the left one is right at its limit. “

I can get a toe arm from you guys but didn’t know I wanted anything other than rear camber arm, which i got installed.

Got it aligned again today and still pulls slightly to the right. Attaching alignment specs from today
IMG_0202.jpeg
 
I’m not saying it’s because of the lift kit but alignment do change after installing lift kit. Shop tries few times and everything is green. Shop suggested
“ You may want to consider adjustable rear toe arms as the left one is right at its limit. “

I can get a toe arm from you guys but didn’t know I wanted anything other than rear camber arm, which i got installed.

Got it aligned again today and still pulls slightly to the right. Attaching alignment specs from today
View attachment 945111
Also, thanks for the reply @MountainPass

I see lot of guys had no issues with alignment after the lift. Not sure whats wrong with mine
 
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If the car is pulling to the right and you've confirmed the following:

- Tire pressures are even
- No brake drag (right side brake rotors aren't warm after a drive with regen only)
- No crown in the road (almost all roads are crowned to the right so it's normal that the car should pull slightly to the right)
- No crosswind

Then you can ask the alignment shop to slightly adjust the alignment to compensate. If the toe adjuster is maxed out, you may need to slightly adjust the camber setting to compensate if you don't want to add toe arms.

I hope this helps!
 
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Just finished my build. Made it less efficient but more purpose-driven since I drive it on dirt roads and snow

Parts I used:
1. Rhino Rack Pioneer Rack
2. Rhino Rack Light brackets
3. Baja Design XT Linkable front lights
4. Baja Design Rear Working lights
5. Auxbeam switch box with controller
6. T Sportline 18" wheels with Falken Wildpeak A/T tires 255/55/18
7. 5mm spacers
8. T Sportline 1.8" Lift
 

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Just finished my build. Made it less efficient but more purpose-driven since I drive it on dirt roads and snow

Parts I used:
1. Rhino Rack Pioneer Rack
2. Rhino Rack Light brackets
3. Baja Design XT Linkable front lights
4. Baja Design Rear Working lights
5. Auxbeam switch box with controller
6. T Sportline 18" wheels with Falken Wildpeak A/T tires 255/55/18
7. 5mm spacers
8. T Sportline 1.8" Lift
5mm spacers?
 
Finally got my MPP lift and upper control arms all installed and I love it! I'd like to think it's the first in Australia and a many thanks for everyone's help and input to date! The image with the bus in the background is pre-lift, the car on it's own is post lift.
 

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5mm spacers?
I too am curious about the 5mm spacers. I have the MPP lift kit with camber arms, and the TSportline 18” wheels with Goodyear A/T tires. I have 5mm spacers ordered, but now wonder if I will have clearance issues in the front with the wheel 5mm further out. (btw, Pennsylvania only allows wheel spacers 1/4” or less..hence the decision to try 5mm)
 
I just saw Tsportline website for lift kit and NOW they say lift kit is only for Fermont build and NOT for Texas??????

 
I just saw Tsportline website for lift kit and NOW they say lift kit is only for Fermont build and NOT for Texas??????

Weird, I wonder why.

@MountainPass , any issues with your kit on 2023 Austin builds?
 
Weird, I wonder why.

@MountainPass , any issues with your kit on 2023 Austin builds?
Not yet, and lonesomecrow's alignment issues are more like alignment tech issues. The first shop I called on his behalf was arguing with me as if I told him that the world is flat. All I asked for is to adjust lonesomecrow's rear toe properly :oops:
 
Hi guys, I pull the trigger and change the wheels to the Enkei Phoenix with Quatrac Pro 255/55. no lift. I did not actual weight them but the new mounted wheels and tires fell significantly lighter than the stock wheels. the car rides great. the only issue I have is that the range calculation is all over the place. seems to be the computer cannot estimate my range anymore. IK the overall diameter is bigger (29" vs. 28"), but use to be spot on. Now it misses for 8-10% after reaching my destination. (I have more battery left than estimated. I still have the car configured to the original Gemini 19. Should I change to something else to help the computer estimate better? It seems I get a hit on efficiency, before I got between 250 and 275 (low 300 if I have a lead foot) now I am hitting 320-340 in normal driving.
 

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Hi guys, I pull the trigger and change the wheels to the Enkei Phoenix with Quatrac Pro 255/55. no lift. I did not actual weight them but the new mounted wheels and tires fell significantly lighter than the stock wheels. the car rides great. the only issue I have is that the range calculation is all over the place. seems to be the computer cannot estimate my range anymore. IK the overall diameter is bigger (29" vs. 28"), but use to be spot on. Now it misses for 8-10% after reaching my destination. (I have more battery left than estimated. I still have the car configured to the original Gemini 19. Should I change to something else to help the computer estimate better? It seems I get a hit on efficiency, before I got between 250 and 275 (low 300 if I have a lead foot) now I am hitting 320-340 in normal driving.
Someone here recommended the 21 config was closest to 255\55-18. That's what I used when I had them. Speedometer was fine until 70 mph when I was actually going 71. Didn't see any issues with range.