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Lifted Model Y Owners: Report!

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It is... problematic.
I have now had both the bigger tires and the lift for a few weeks. I have to say I love the new feel and the freedom to wander familiar roads that have been denied me before the lift. But mechanical issues and efficiency reductions are nagging me.
The first problem was an occasional clanking sound that would come and go, it was not consistent nor readily replicable, so I was reluctant to take it back to the mechanic for investigation. I thought it might be the new aluminum "smash me" underbody shield flexing too much. After coming home from one drive I crawled under (much easier now that its almost 3 inches higher above the ground) and noticed a piece of something loose sticking out a gap between the rear underbody aero shield and a suspension member. I panicked and thought the new rear camber arms had somehow broken loose? But then how could the vehicle be drivable? I tugged and shoved at the loose cylinder, which felt like it was still attached at the far end, but then I managed to extract the thing: it was a folding flashlight with a powerful magnetic base. Apparently left up in the suspension by the alignment shop. Most of the time the magnet would stick to something an the flashlight would rest peacefully. Hit a decent bump and the flashlight would rattle around in the suspension area, unable to fall to the ground because it cant fit through the gaps in the aero shield. It would rattle around until the magnet would find something to stick to again, and then the noise would stop. View attachment 1049596
I had the mechanic lift up the vehicle to inspect for any damage from the flashlight being stuck in wheelwell for 500 miles, but all looked ok.
A few days after that, I found some random hardware in the cubby of my front passenger side door. I have looked under the vehicle briefly but did not see where these might belong. There is a creaking sound that seems to be getting worse, but again not consistent. Recent work: tires, wrap, MPP lift, front smash plate, and "brake service". Any ideas where these screws and panel inserts might belong? View attachment 1049598
Clearly at this point I am loosing confidence in my mechanic and in the car. The final thing is the reduction in efficiency. Sure, I was expecting some. But based on reports from other people lifting I did not expect as much of a hit as I am seeing. Before all this my car lifetime (34k miles) consumption was in the ballpark of 280whr/mi, mostly highway. Now I can't get it under 310 even driving in town. And pushing 340 at 70MPH. Some of that is odometer error because the new wheel diameter, but it seems excessive. Given the alignment shop left a flashlight in there, I may try to get the alignment checked by a second shop. Or maybe the "brake service" is causing new brake drag.
Should I just tuck tail and go to a Tesla service center and have them check it out? I think they will refuse to even look at the vehicle because of the non-conforming non-OEM parts: underbelly plates, lift, tires.
I have the other kind of skid plate (one offered by RPM Tesla) and I also had some odd noise coming at low speeds but only during acceleration and deceleration, lifted the car and found out that one of the bolt places for the skid plate, not on the skid plate but on the car itself, was broken, to fix it I added a loctite and two nuts on the other end of the bolt and finally used some automotive extra strong tape along the rear most part of the skid plate
I initially thought it was suspension issue, really turned out to just be the sound you hear when the skid plate moves a little due to g force as one bolt had nothing to anchor on, the reason the car side of things is broken on my car is something I remember hitting on a high way with the original skid plate (counted my blessings and bought this better than stock skid plate after that experience ..)
 
Finally finished my project. 2023 Tesla Model Y Performance with

T Sportline Bull Bar
T Sportline 18" TS5 Wheel with 255/55/18 Falken Wildpeak tires
T Sportline Lift Kit
Rhino Rack Pioneer rack system
WeBoost Overland Cell Phone Booster
Baja Design XL Linkable Lights on Roof
Baja Design LP4 Lights on Bumper
Baja Design S2 Lights on rear roof rack system
Auxbeam front and rear switch panel controller

The range is unknown as I wasn't aiming for efficiency. Rides amazing on street, dirt and snow.
This is beyond cool. Definitely the route I want to go down when I decide to switch everything up and go from lowered on BBS to lifted like yours haha. Can you do a short overview over how you have everything wired up? especially interested in the roof lights as that is something I want to add to my Model Y right now!!

Thanks!!
 
This is beyond cool. Definitely the route I want to go down when I decide to switch everything up and go from lowered on BBS to lifted like yours haha. Can you do a short overview over how you have everything wired up? especially interested in the roof lights as that is something I want to add to my Model Y right now!!

Thanks!!
Shoot me a PM and I’ll gladly show you with new pics of what I did
IMG_1039.jpeg
 
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MPP 1.75" lift kit added. Looks like an almost 5% efficiency hit, even at 45 MPH and under in town on pavement. Perhaps because the CV joints have more angle? I was expecting an efficiency hit from the tires which I did not see, but surprised by the efficiency hit from the lift.View attachment 1045184
since the wheel size is larger than the OEM, the miles will read lower than it actually is. So whatever reading you get in terms of miles, you're getting more miles than it actually shows.
 
Hi. I have a Tesla Model Y with a raised suspension, about 5 cm more than a normal suspension. My software version is 2024.14.8. I'm having problems with my Autopilot when cornering. It's not obeying the lanes and ends up moving into another lane. My question: is this a software problem, a problem with the raised suspension or both?

Here's a video I took of the problem, in which case I had to take over the steering at the time.

 
Hi. I have a Tesla Model Y with a raised suspension, about 5 cm more than a normal suspension. My software version is 2024.14.8. I'm having problems with my Autopilot when cornering. It's not obeying the lanes and ends up moving into another lane. My question: is this a software problem, a problem with the raised suspension or both?

Here's a video I took of the problem, in which case I had to take over the steering at the time.

Have you recalibrated the cameras?

 
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Not lifted yet, But here's my setup so far.
Falken Wild peak A/T Trail 235/60/18
Momo Etna 18x8.5 wheels

Thanks to @P3D-R for helping me get this setup.

View attachment 753594
View attachment 753595
Can I check in and ask about this setup? How is the ride feel, how is it on mountain roads or gravel? How does it affect your wh/mile? How is it on freeways?

Do you still like this setup? I'm thinking of getting something similar, hard to find momo wheels though.
 
I've been looking at these. When are they releasing it?

Does it block the rear camera (I can live with that)?

Is there an option to add a bike carrier? If yes then wow...all set...what more would anyone need?

Finally, this is much much better for aero and range than a roof rack, right?
Sorry for the late reply. I had no idea you replied. They’re out, may just not be on their website yet. Best thing to do is call them and see if they have them in stock. It does have a flow through hitch so you can install a bike carrier or whatever else. As far as the camera, yes it blocks it but I just worked out a solution so I have it back while the tire carrier is on. Making final pieces as I type this. I found the type of coax cables the car uses so it’s plug and play and picked up a used camera from eBay. I CAD designed and 3D printed a camera housing and using a Jeep spare tire camera mount. Now that it’s all done I can switch between the original camera in the hatch and the tire cam in less than 2mins. and all I have to do is recalibrate the cameras. If you don’t want to go through all of that autopilot/FSD still work with the rear camera being blocked. Just gotta get used to judging distance in the rear view mirror when backing in to supercharger stalls etc.
 
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Sorry for the late reply. I had no idea you replied. They’re out, may just not be on their website yet. Best thing to do is call them and see if they have them in stock. It does have a flow through hitch so you can install a bike carrier or whatever else. As far as the camera, yes it blocks it but I just worked out a solution so I have it back while the tire carrier is on. Making final pieces as I type this. I found the type of coax cables the car uses so it’s plug and play and picked up a used camera from eBay. I CAD designed and 3D printed a camera housing and using a Jeep spare tire camera mount. Now that it’s all done I can switch between the original camera in the hatch and the tire cam in less than 2mins. and all I have to do is recalibrate the cameras. If you don’t want to go through all of that autopilot/FSD still work with the rear camera being blocked. Just gotta get used to judging distance in the rear view mirror when backing in to supercharger stalls etc.
Just going to throw it out there...
Ever thought of making a switch to flip to a front facing camera? can be hella useful in some parking and even driving situations
 
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Sorry for the late reply. I had no idea you replied. They’re out, may just not be on their website yet. Best thing to do is call them and see if they have them in stock. It does have a flow through hitch so you can install a bike carrier or whatever else. As far as the camera, yes it blocks it but I just worked out a solution so I have it back while the tire carrier is on. Making final pieces as I type this. I found the type of coax cables the car uses so it’s plug and play and picked up a used camera from eBay. I CAD designed and 3D printed a camera housing and using a Jeep spare tire camera mount. Now that it’s all done I can switch between the original camera in the hatch and the tire cam in less than 2mins. and all I have to do is recalibrate the cameras. If you don’t want to go through all of that autopilot/FSD still work with the rear camera being blocked. Just gotta get used to judging distance in the rear view mirror when backing in to supercharger stalls etc.
Just going to throw it out there...
Ever thought of making a switch to flip to a front facing camera? can be hella useful in some parking and even driving situations

The front facing camera is one of my favorite things on the CT

@Rogue_Leader
Now that we have MPP's blessing, can you please bring this to market? sell it as a kit with one printout page of installation instructions and maybe post one install video and you could probably charge $250 for each kit
 
What are you asking to bring to market? My backup camera setup?
Same method, same hardware, just for front facing camera on front bumper
Same as currently available on Cybertruck/Rivian R1, flick a switch and move to camera feed from front bumper with the car being none the wiser, not intended to be used while autopilot is on

I have a front camera with my front display.
Do tell
 
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Same method, same hardware, just for front facing camera on front bumper
Same as currently available on Cybertruck/Rivian R1, flick a switch and move to camera feed from front bumper with the car being none the wiser, not intended to be used while autopilot is on


Do tell
It’s just the Hansshow F68 display. It’s a wireless CarPlay/Android Auto screen that also mimics the screen as far as MPH, turn signals, etc. It came with a camera and I just installed it in the front essentially as a rock cam for when I’m off-road on a trail. Because my car is a ‘21 and has the parking sensors it auto turns on when I get close to something so I have a visual as well.
 
Same method, same hardware, just for front facing camera on front bumper
Same as currently available on Cybertruck/Rivian R1, flick a switch and move to camera feed from front bumper with the car being none the wiser, not intended to be used while autopilot is on


Do tell
Also, I don’t have a way to tie a camera in to the main screen as a front camera. I’m still using the back up camera cable. I just found the cables that work and extended it.
 
Hi. I have a Tesla Model Y with a raised suspension, about 5 cm more than a normal suspension. My software version is 2024.14.8. I'm having problems with my Autopilot when cornering. It's not obeying the lanes and ends up moving into another lane. My question: is this a software problem, a problem with the raised suspension or both?

Here's a video I took of the problem, in which case I had to take over the steering at the time.

The lift should have noting to do with that especially if you've recalibrated the cameras. My car is lifted higher than yours and at the time up until a couple days ago the rear camera was blocked by my swing out spare tire carrier. I subscribed to FSD for our road trip and the car did great. The only thing I noticed and I'm sure it was because of the rear camera being blocked was when I'd signal to move back to the right lane it was hesitant and take longer to move to the right as opposed to when it would go to pass someone on the left. We drove over 3200 miles from So. Cal to east Texas and back. Something else is going on I would say.
 
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