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Lost 51 miles of range in 53 hours?!

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This is probably one of the incredibly complex "100 tradeoffs" you reference that Tesla is making to ensure your charge port doesn't freeze up. It's a small price to pay. ;)

Seriously though, maybe you should contact Tesla support and see if they can perform some sort of harder reboot or something to get your car out of this state. I predict they'll have cars that mostly stay in sleep mode within a year. :) I have noticed it can get in some pretty strange states related to charging - for the longest time it said it was unable to charge for me after an aborted plug in to a Chargepoint. I just left and hoped for the best. It did fix itself eventually, fortunately. It also involved me having to use the manual release. It got super upset when I used that. It thought I was using it to insert the charge adapter or something, which IT WAS NOT OK WITH. She forgave me for my transgression though.

I did contact them. They called back 3 days later (cleared some tokens). It's 50F and sunny out today. Didn't even need a coat.
For some time I could work around the issue by always charging every time I parked it at home. But that doesn't seem to do the trick any more.

I'm about ready to factory reset it.

This isn't nit picking over 4 miles a day vs 8. The car is not turning off. The Stereo Amps are ON and pumps running all day on a warm winter day.

It "normally" does vary from like 5 minutes to 30 minutes before it shuts down. But never all day.

Screwing the charge port lock isn't right either. 44.x and up is really F'd up.

I'm trying to stay ahead of it. It's not the battery drain that even bothers me. It's burning out some pump or something that's not designed to stay on 24/7.

Only reason I have not tried factory reset yet, is because I didn't want to loose my lifetime Trip B Odometer.
 
Ugh - so sorry to hear that. That charge a couple of nights ago seems to have "fixed" my problem for now or at least reset whatever problem was happening. I never used the iOS widget prior to the problem but started once I saw this issue (to see range without "waking"). That said, when the problem was at its worst the car was "Parked" all day - now it's actually "asleep" whenever I check - and I've only lost 1 mile since unplugging at 6 am this morning (1 mile lost in 9 hours)- which is actually better than typical given the 50 F temp. in the garage. It still hasn't finished downloading the software yet but my sense is that wasn't causing the issue. What's weird is that the SC center thought the disrupted charging session/stuck charger had nothing to do with this - and they didn't indicate that my car wasn't sleeping at all. That's a little troubling!

That's how mine would "normally" run. Charge at 6PM for an hour or two. 10AM next morning it would be down 1-2 miles. That's fine.

Mine corrected itself a few times after a charge. But now it's just stuck.
 
This isn't nit picking over 4 miles a day vs 8. The car is not turning off.

The 4 miles a day (thankfully it's not 8 for most people!) is ALSO because the car isn't turning off, primarily, by the way. Otherwise you'd lose a mile a day or less. It's just a less severe "not turning off" than what you're currently experiencing.

I have no suggestions. The connection of the radar detector is not correlated with this problem starting? I understand the detector is powered off when the car goes to sleep, so it isn't the problem per se, but I wonder if there is some sort of current sensing of when things are "off" (so it doesn't "pop" the rear amp/subwoofer or something) on various circuits, and it won't go into sleep mode if things haven't yet powered themselves down gracefully? Seems unlikely though. And if your problem is not correlated with the connection of the radar detector it's probably something else.

Edit: corrected "idle" rather than "sleep" above
 
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The 4 miles a day (thankfully it's not 8 for most people!) is ALSO because the car isn't turning off, primarily, by the way. Otherwise you'd lose a mile a day or less. It's just a less severe "not turning off" than what you're currently experiencing.

I have no suggestions. The connection of the radar detector is not correlated with this problem starting? I understand the detector is powered off when the car goes to sleep, so it isn't the problem per se, but I wonder if there is some sort of current sensing of when things are "off" (so it doesn't "pop" the subwoofer or something) on various circuits, and it won't go into sleep mode if things haven't powered themselves down yet? Seems unlikely though. And if your problem is not correlated with the connection of the radar detector it's probably something else.

Edit: corrected "idle" rather than "sleep" above

Please don't confuse the topic any further. the 200 milliwatt detector on the Amp has nothing to do with it. I'd probably have less idea knowing what's going on if I didn't have the detector on their. How would you know your Amp is even on?

It's worked fine for 3 months. Until 44.x was released and my Charge Port starting F'ing up.
There are many other folks running into issues with the charge port and excessive drain.

If you park your car outside you'd never know the car isn't asleep. In my garage I can hear a pin drop so it's pretty easy to hear it's running.

And I know it should be running anything MECHANICAL for 10 hours in 50F Garage. Plugged in or not. And it never did until 44.x.

I don't see the big deal here. To me it's obviously a software bug and it's quite obvious by the reports from others around the charge port that there is a problem.

I think the charge port screw up is related. It was for the OP of this thread and me. When that screws up there is trouble ahead. And it takes a few reboots and recharges to get things right again.

It's probably the order you do things, temperature swings, charge states that it just gets messed up. I wish I knew what triggers it because I feel like I do the same thing each day and just some days it really messes up.

I don't want to get stuck with a dead 12V battery when it's 10F out in the middle of no where. And where I often go I don't expect a Tesla Tow truck to show up any time soon. I don't know what is running off 12V battery and what is subsidized by the 75Kw battery.

I've seen a few horror stories and don't want to be another statistic. I'm sure it will eventually get resolved. But I'm not gonna let it screw me in dangerous temperatures.
 
Please don't confuse the topic any further. the 200 milliwatt detector on the Amp has nothing to do with it. I'd probably have less idea knowing what's going on if I didn't have the detector on their. How would you know your Amp is even on?

I just asked whether it was correlated. It sounds like it is not. You didn't say your detector has been connected for a long time, so I had no way to know. That is why I was asking. As I said, it seemed unlikely to be the problem anyway.

Charge port: I had a problem with the charge port two days ago, with three error messages (I don't remember them all exactly, but one was "Unable to Charge", another was approximately "Don't use the emergency release to insert the charge connector" and the other was something else charging related and redundant). I left the vehicle plugged in and not charging (it said charging error, unable to charge) and hoped for the best. Checked later and it had started charging and never saw the errors again.

However, I have not seen excessive drain subsequent to that issue.

It's certainly a software bug! Most vampire drain issues are software bugs...or features.
 
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I just asked whether it was correlated. It sounds like it is not. You didn't say your detector has been connected for a long time, so I had no way to know. That is why I was asking. As I said, it seemed unlikely to be the problem anyway.

Charge port: I had a problem with the charge port two days ago, with three error messages (I don't remember them all exactly, but one was "Unable to Charge", another was approximately "Don't use the emergency release to insert the charge connector" and the other was something else charging related and redundant). I left the vehicle plugged in and not charging (it said charging error, unable to charge) and hoped for the best. Checked later and it had started charging and never saw the errors again.

However, I have not seen excessive drain subsequent to that issue.

It's certainly a software bug! Most vampire drain issues are software bugs...or features.
I had those same three errors when the supercharger got stuck in my car (last Friday)! I did charge very slowly at a Chargepoint charger after that (last Sunday) for like an hour (maybe forgot to mention that - thought it was just a super slow charger and wasn't watching for drain - and the chargepoint charger was easily removed/removed without error messages). I started to notice the drain that night (sunday). I don't know whether the drain started after the super charger getting stuck/getting those error codes or whether the chargepoint charger - but I'm confident that the drain was indeed charger related.
 
I just asked whether it was correlated. It sounds like it is not. You didn't say your detector has been connected for a long time, so I had no way to know. That is why I was asking. As I said, it seemed unlikely to be the problem anyway.

Charge port: I had a problem with the charge port two days ago, with three error messages (I don't remember them all exactly, but one was "Unable to Charge", another was approximately "Don't use the emergency release to insert the charge connector" and the other was something else charging related and redundant). I left the vehicle plugged in and not charging (it said charging error, unable to charge) and hoped for the best. Checked later and it had started charging and never saw the errors again.

However, I have not seen excessive drain subsequent to that issue.

It's certainly a software bug! Most vampire drain issues are software bugs...or features.

Fair enough. I almost didn't want to share the radar detector because I was worried folks would jump all over that. I could even shut the radar detector off to eliminate it. But that's going a little nuts.

Again, even if vampire drain wasn't that bad, I'm concerned with something running mechanically 24/7 even without any crazy temperatures. When I first got the car and installed the Radar Detector I was initially confused how long it would "normally" take to shutdown. After while I learned and got used to the way it behaved.

There just isn't any way this is normal.

I keep hoping I'll get 48.x and that it maybe fixes it.
 
I had those same three errors when the supercharger got stuck in my car (last Friday)! I did charge very slowly at a Chargepoint charger after that (last Sunday) for like an hour (maybe forgot to mention that - thought it was just a super slow charger and wasn't watching for drain - and the chargepoint charger was easily removed/removed without error messages). I started to notice the drain that night (sunday). I don't know whether the drain started after the super charger getting stuck/getting those error codes or whether the chargepoint charger - but I'm confident that the drain was indeed charger related.

Oh yeah, I also got the phantom though shall not go above 16A yesterday as well. Stating a problem with charge port connection. I pulled it out and put it in and that cleared. Yet another false.
 
Fair enough. I almost didn't want to share the radar detector because I was worried folks would jump all over that. I could even shut the radar detector off to eliminate it. But that's going a little nuts.

Again, even if vampire drain wasn't that bad, I'm concerned with something running mechanically 24/7 even without any crazy temperatures. When I first got the car and installed the Radar Detector I was initially confused how long it would "normally" take to shutdown. After while I learned and got used to the way it behaved.

There just isn't any way this is normal.

I keep hoping I'll get 48.x and that it maybe fixes it.

I assume this means you’re never hearing the clunking contactors anymore?

A few things I quickly observed tonight.

There’s very quiet clicking that occurs from the charge port (the details are covered in another thread). Have to put your head up next to it. This only occurs in “parked” (idle) mode. When you hear the high voltage contactor “clunk”, the clicking goes away after a few seconds, and shortly thereafter the iOS tells you the car is “asleep”. There are probably other sounds as well, as you have observed.

The contactors seem to take as little as a minute and as much as 5 minutes to “clunk” to off after closing the doors and after the car locks.

One mystery here is sometimes I just hear one clunk, and sometimes two. I know there are separate supply/ground contactors but not sure if that’s what I am hearing or whether there are 4 contactors (two banks?) on the battery. Anyone know? Maybe I only hear two (supply & ground) when it is reconnecting...I’ll have to pay closer attention.

I experimented with using the manual power off - didn’t seem to affect the contactor behavior.

Another thing about the contactors...unless there are two banks which can independently be connected, when the contactors (one for ground and one for supply) are disconnected, this means there can’t be draw from the HV battery. I guess this means the 12V must be drawn on then in sleep mode? Since the HV battery is disconnected... Hopefully there will be wiring diagrams at some point to make this clear - or perhaps someone knows here exactly how the contactors are set up.

As far as I can tell there is no issue with the car leaving sleep mode when you get in proximity to it. I heard no clunking of the contactors, and the iOS widget claimed it was still asleep. So at least on version 46, the car doesn’t seem to exit sleep and go to idle due to proximity of the phone. So that is good.

BTW - only one mile of vampire drain today. So to me that says it was in sleep mode all day (I have been unable to wake it up from the app today, too). I checked my WiFi traffic for the Model 3, and it was a total of 5MB of traffic - very low (I’ve seen near 1GB before, due to a software update). I suspect higher vampire drain days will occur when there is more traffic (presumably it goes to idle for this) but I guess I can check this correlation in future. Note that the single large burst of activity occurred when I was opening the car this evening - probably due to music streaming, etc. Aside from that there was zero traffic. I’m not capturing LTE traffic here of course... but I assume WiFi is preferred, and it is very strong in my garage as there is an access point there.

I did leave it plugged in all day, with the charge target set well below the current charge level. I’m not sure what effect that has on behavior...if it is plugged in, does it replenish the small sleep mode losses from the 12V battery from the UMC? Or does it reconnect the HV battery as well to replenish the 12V when plugged in? I have no idea... Clearly the car will discharge the HV battery when plugged in - but does it discharge slower than when not plugged in, because the HV battery doesn’t have to supply the sleep mode losses? So many questions...

Anyway, those were a few random observations. I thought this was going to be a short post.

0A75400C-7A88-49F2-B6B6-4340D4173EEB.png
 
Continuing to not sleep today...here is the wireless activity. I did drive it briefly for an hour or so, and it really decided to start uploading data after that short drive. Still “parked”, not sleeping. I assume it will sleep soon! I guess I could try plugging it in and setting charge level low. Worked well to make the contactors disconnect before....

16D17B6D-49DB-4433-B0DC-3E59CD427E58.png


35CF31C1-C87B-4423-8906-25100150DC98.png
 
Thanks - No third party apps downloaded/installed ever - read enough threads about them causing problems like this before I even ordered my car to scare me away! It seems to be a little better since starting/stopping the car - 7 miles lost in the last 10 hours (and have checked the app 4-5 times). I am going to do my best to not check again for 12 hours or so and hopefully it will continue to improve.

I too was afraid of TeslaFi for this very reason, but you need not be afraid of it if you setup the sleep modes correctly. Whatever vampire drain that could be attributed directly to TeslaFi is so low I can't even tell if it is causing any or not. There are so many factors to this, but before TeslaFi, my daily winter commute consumed 10% of my battery life (with 1% idle drain while sitting out in the cold all day). After TeslaFi, no change, still 10% total drain when I return home. The app can be set to put the car to sleep after designated periods of idle time and can tell you when the car is asleep. Sign up directly for a 14 day, no credit card needed trial, or contact someone for a referral for 30 days. Let me know if you need help with recommended settings for the sleep modes.

Also, I highly recommend switching to percent rather than miles remaining. I am confident it will greatly reduce any range anxiety you may have. It might seem illogical, but a 1% loss concerns me far less than 4 miles of range lost.
 
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Thanks - No third party apps downloaded/installed ever - read enough threads about them causing problems like this before I even ordered my car to scare me away! It seems to be a little better since starting/stopping the car - 7 miles lost in the last 10 hours (and have checked the app 4-5 times). I am going to do my best to not check again for 12 hours or so and hopefully it will continue to improve.

No third party apps for me either. I had one app but I disabled it until things get sorted out.

I might have found a work around for the charge port erroneously locking. Which often seems to be the first step in having a bad "not wanting to sleep" day.

For quite a few days it was screwing up the charge port and instead of hitting the button on the plug to unlock I go in the car and hit the unlock on the charge screen. It's worked 3-4 days in row now. But I had 3-4 days in row with no issue using the plug button too, so I don't know for sure.

When it does screw up, it's locked in the morning, I open car door to wake it, I hit the button on the charge plug and it unlocks and then immediately locks again and the tesla logo turns red and it's all messed up at that point. I have to manually release at that point and the car has issues shutting down (not serious, but annoying and could be a problem if it was super cold, not fully charged, sat for a while and in the middle of no where, which is what I do almost every weekend going to a cabin up north).