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Loud burst of air, now left side suspension bottomed out, diagnostic help

The fittings worked pretty well and I was able to work through any issues in just a few minutes. No leaks.
I noticed that the last valve on each row of 3 is LF and LR. My left front and rear basically bottomed out a while back and began this journey. No leaks, two different valve blocks with identical results, air tank is solid, so I’m wondering what’s wrong with it? The compressor runs and raises and lowers, facilitates it anyway, and it makes me wonder if it’s just done. The last valve on each row is getting significantly less air than the valve before it.
Then there’s the possibility of stored codes in SAS ecu, just a rumor according to a Tesla service manager, but what else could it be? The strange behavior, would a weak compressor explain all that?

Here’s a video of the compressor running forever, fill up the tank from 95 to 120psi, then purging all the way back down to 95. The compressor gets hot doing this, but it will do it a few times before finished.

95-120psi, purge and slow drop back to 95
 

Doanster1

Active Member
Feb 14, 2018
1,249
675
Oregon
The compressor is def working overtime, but the filling and purging is exactly what happened to me after my last swap in of compressor and valve block. That’s when I threw in the towel and went to the SC as I stated earlier and got a call in a couple hours saying codes were cleared, calibration performed, and car is working as expected again.
 
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The compressor is def working overtime, but the filling and purging is exactly what happened to me after my last swap in of compressor and valve block. That’s when I threw in the towel and went to the SC as I stated earlier and got a call in a couple hours saying codes were cleared, calibration performed, and car is working as expected again.
I ordered a new affordable compressor from a place I know with friendly returns. Also scheduled a service appointment For next week, assuming the new compressor doesn’t fix things. At that point I’ll just put the oem compressor back in and ask them Tesla to just perform whatever work. Good grief.
Every time I get in the car it’s sitting far lower on the drivers side and the compressor does what you’ll see in the Pump and dump air compressor video.
 
Went to a service center to reinstall firmware. The service screen says “Alerts to Check: 5”. I don’t think it’s referring to my service notifications. Any idea how to see or delete these in service mode?

Edit: I tapped “reset tpms” by accident and it now says I have 4 service alerts.

ADEC9401-88CA-43C5-AF61-04203AC04F0F.jpeg


6FF0369E-E208-4A5A-A7F0-7064A7D37249.jpeg
 
One more update:
After installing partial reinstall, with no luck, I staged full reinstall and let it run at the end of the night. Came out today with both sides level, but front wheels had 1-2 fingers space and rear wheels about 3-4. Exciting.
I got in and it showed red icon that leveling is unavailable now.
 

Doanster1

Active Member
Feb 14, 2018
1,249
675
Oregon
One more update:
After installing partial reinstall, with no luck, I staged full reinstall and let it run at the end of the night. Came out today with both sides level, but front wheels had 1-2 fingers space and rear wheels about 3-4. Exciting.
I got in and it showed red icon that leveling is unavailable now.
Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car.
The alerts you showed aren’t anything to worry about. Those are normal/simple warnings. The red SAS icon is the killer. I hope clearing those errors and recalibrating the system will finally solve your issues.
 
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Went to a service center to reinstall firmware. The service screen says “Alerts to Check: 5”. I don’t think it’s referring to my service notifications. Any idea how to see or delete these in service mode?

Edit: I tapped “reset tpms” by accident and it now says I have 4 service alerts.

View attachment 812841

View attachment 812842
MCU1 has a sort of crippled service mode compared to MCU2 so I don't think you can see hidden alerts with this mode on your MCU 1

Did you tried changing wheel size? That's a deep reset also
 
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Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car.
The alerts you showed aren’t anything to worry about. Those are normal/simple warnings. The red SAS icon is the killer. I hope clearing those errors and recalibrating the system will finally solve your issues.
Yeah the rear on my car about a year ago was all the way up while front was “standard”.
At least if there is eventually a pattern to this others who’ll know what to expect? My Tesla appointment is Saturday so by next Tuesday should know the results.
 
MCU1 has a sort of crippled service mode compared to MCU2 so I don't think you can see hidden alerts with this mode on your MCU 1

Did you tried changing wheel size? That's a deep reset also
Installed the new compressor today and although it seems a much nicer and quieter unit than my old one, the behavior of the compressor remains. Lots of long periods pressurizing and then blowing off loud bursts of air. Just an update as I plan to take it in to service and have more info in about a week’s time.
 
Preparing for my service visit where I’ve asked Tesla to calibrate the leveling sensors back to stock ride height, overriding whatever input the sensors currently provide… I’m currently using leveling links to achieve about 1” lower ride height. It isn’t rare that I’m missing something obvious about how the car works… am I going to need to switch the links back to oem? It seems like the smart thing to do. That way the calibrated ride height will be accurate, and I can reinstall links to achieve ride height, and I can install oem links again to go back to stock height. But, it does mean my alignment and especially toe will be way off, and my appointment is 20 miles away. Not swapping risks they possibly decline service bc of aftermarket adjustable parts installed?? They declined leveling the car last year when I had aftermarket rear camber arms, but this is a different SC.
 
Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car.
The alerts you showed aren’t anything to worry about. Those are normal/simple warnings. The red SAS icon is the killer. I hope clearing those errors and recalibrating the system will finally solve your issues.
Deja vu has come full circle. Changed the lowering links back to stock and also changed the wheel setting for a hard reset. When it came to life again the compressor ran and purged several times. When I got out the back was fully raised and the front appears to be in Standard, height-wise. The setting on the screen is Very High. Driving this 20 miles to Tesla might Be unwise. In High, the front will drop further, and above 34mph it will drop to standard and the front might be slammed by that point. About a year ago it was identical to this, actually, and in standard I wasn’t able to turn my front wheels without breaking the fender liners and bumper tabs (oops). Maybe a tow isn’t such a wild idea.
A2882310-0F0F-479F-81F2-9D98AEA2BA85.jpeg
 

Aggmeister2010

Active Member
Dec 26, 2018
1,172
1,052
TX
I've seen that stance before. A body shop try to reset the ride height of my friend's S a few years back, but they failed to tell him they never actually got training on Tesla Toolbox, and ended up faulting the system and turning on the red light of doom.

It sat like this until he got it re-leveled, no problems since.
 
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Doanster1

Active Member
Feb 14, 2018
1,249
675
Oregon
Deja vu has come full circle. Changed the lowering links back to stock and also changed the wheel setting for a hard reset. When it came to life again the compressor ran and purged several times. When I got out the back was fully raised and the front appears to be in Standard, height-wise. The setting on the screen is Very High. Driving this 20 miles to Tesla might Be unwise. In High, the front will drop further, and above 34mph it will drop to standard and the front might be slammed by that point. About a year ago it was identical to this, actually, and in standard I wasn’t able to turn my front wheels without breaking the fender liners and bumper tabs (oops). Maybe a tow isn’t such a wild idea. View attachment 814653
You’ll be fine driving to the SC. Front end won’t slam. Auto lowering won’t work either. With the back so high, don’t drive terribly fast if there’s freeway involved.
 
You’ll be fine driving to the SC. Front end won’t slam. Auto lowering won’t work either. With the back so high, don’t drive terribly fast if there’s freeway involved.
I took it for a short drive and it lowered at the high/standard increments as I sped up, to my surprise. It lowered incrementally about 1.25”front and rear. Hmmm….
The right side is factory ride height for standard, which has been the case during this debacle, and the left side is much lower than Low at standard. That’s how it was before, also. So strange it went into the cheetah stance and said it couldn’t level (red light), but one drive beyond 19mph and it was back to its previous disposition.
Thankfully I can steer side to side but at full lock the tire treads really get caught on the bumper/fender mating tab and bolt. Like, it’ll tear the bumper off under suspension load. I just have to be careful to raise the car the moment I get into a potential full-lock turn situation. It’ll only be a handful of times that I need to turn into or out of a lot from Pasadena to West LA.
 

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