I would be surprised if they didn't have the gerber files and firmware bits for these boards in some type of revision control system; it would be massively incompetent of them if they didn't. I think the tricky part might be finding the people who worked on these boards and who would be knowledgeable about getting them manufactured again. Also, finding the right person to flash the correct firmware might be difficult.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Low Power System Service Required
- Thread starter Pantera Dude
- Start date
-
- Tags
- Roadster
I finally got my Roadster back with a new Switchpack.
Tesla is not recommending adding any additional load to it, including a rearview camera that I had. The camera I had uses a meager 80 milliAmps at 12V.
According to Tesla engineering that may have thrown the switchpack off enough to fail components.
Tesla is not recommending adding any additional load to it, including a rearview camera that I had. The camera I had uses a meager 80 milliAmps at 12V.
According to Tesla engineering that may have thrown the switchpack off enough to fail components.
wiztecy
Active Member
I've always felt the 1.5 12volt system was quite fragile hence why I bailed on putting in amp/sub. I even feel a little cautious charging my phone via the 12v system which I'm sure is fine, I only charge it when my phone's battery is low but otherwise charge my phone when at home or work. I do use the phone for Waze/Mapping systems in the Roadster. Happy you got your ride back.
pharma5
Roadster F#25, Model 3 #36xx
Maybe, but I don't think load is the only issue.
I literally did not use my 12V port *ever* in a year+ of ownership when it failed. (I don't use 12V other cars either - I'm strange that way). The first owner drove <7000 miles in ~3 years before me (last 6 months or so in storage), so i don't imagine a lot of time-based loading there.
To my eyes
that suggests a part that *could* fail at 5 years with no particular abuse outside of the act of everyday driving. Maybe the later switchpacks are more reliable?Asgard, did you say it was a truly new (never-used) replacement part, or a previously-used and known-to-work part? (Feel free to PM if you don't want to post - thanks).
Maybe, but I don't think load is the only issue.
I literally did not use my 12V port *ever* in a year+ of ownership when it failed. (I don't use 12V other cars either - I'm strange that way). The first owner drove <7000 miles in ~3 years before me (last 6 months or so in storage), so i don't imagine a lot of time-based loading there.
To my eyes
Asgard, did you say it was a truly new (never-used) replacement part, or a previously-used and known-to-work part? (Feel free to PM if you don't want to post - thanks).
It is a never-used replacement switchpack as far as I know.
It can't be a load thing - the camera is 1W. It's the same camera used on most cell phones.
Seems dubious. I've had an aftermarket rearview camera on my car since 2010. If it was that weak turning the radio up full would kill it.
wiztecy
Active Member
I believe Doug's is a 2.0, so I don't think he has a switchpack!? I do know he has a 12v motorcycle battery and our 1.5's don't. Also all the switchpack's that have been blown so far have been from 1.5's so I think that's possibly unique to having sheets 1 & 2 in the ESS power the 12v system that this thing does the "switching" from the ESS "pack".
Here's an old thread where a person blew their switchpack out by plugging an inverter into the 12v socket:
WARNING: Do not plug an AC inverter into your 12VDC socket! [Archive] - Tesla Motors Club - Enthusiasts & Owners Forum
Last edited:
wiztecy
Active Member
But I agree with Doug, seems dubious if your camera pulls as much juice as a cell phone camera and if Tesla believes that may have caused it. Is that still true or are they unsure? Since in that thread / link I posted about the switchpack damaged from an inverted, Tesla is claiming that the 12V accessory port (which I believe your camera may have been tied into indirectly) is used to charge cameras, phones, and small electronic devices.
I had just parked my car when the switchpack died. Tesla got it to work by resetting the error codes, but it died again when their technician test-drove it.
I don't believe it completely failed - it became unreliable.
I thought the switchpack powered everything that runs off 12V - radio, windows, doors, hatch, inside lights, brake lights, turn signals?
That is at least 50-100W of power.
I think the technicians were just blindly pointing to any non-OEM hardware as taking the blame for the problem. It's far more likely it was simply a random component failure that caused the issue.
I wasn't kidding when I suggested that turning up the radio would consume more current! Class AB amplifiers take more power when pushed harder. 80 mA @ 12V is only 1 watt.
I wasn't kidding when I suggested that turning up the radio would consume more current! Class AB amplifiers take more power when pushed harder. 80 mA @ 12V is only 1 watt.
OVMS is around 80mA (when searching for cellular signal), and there are plenty of those in 1.5s. I guess tattler is more. I reckon the camera is getting the blame, but is most likely innocent. The VMS / VDS in the car will be significantly more than that.
Tesla disconnected my rearview camera from 12V power and OVMS when they swapped my switchpack. So now I am considering powering those from a separate rechargeable 12V LiPoFE battery pack.
I'm concerned that if I hang the camera and OVMS back on the 12V bus I won't get a warranty replacement if something should go wrong with the switchpack again.
So, something like this should give 40 hours of continuous usage or several days if I turn off the devices when the accessories turn off:
http://www.all-battery.com/TenergyLifepo41865012.8V6600mAhRechargeableBatteryPackwithPCB-31388.aspx
Is it pretty easy to route the accessory on/off switch controls?
Hmmm. But, then how are you going to charge the extra battery pack? Presumably from the car, which then leads to more power draw.
Something like this:
BlackVue - Full HD 1080p Dash Cameras with GPS
may help, but that has a power draw too.
What is the 12V accessory socket for, if not for 12V accessories?
I thought Tesla was coming out to my house yesterday to work on my car. I was mistaken, they just came to pick it up and work on it at the shop. I expected a ranger to do my 36,000 mile service and solve the Low Power problem. Apparently they don't do much work on the cars away from the shop, if they are a reasonable distance away. I think maybe if you are 500 miles from a service center, it might be a different story? Anyway, the estimate to replace the switchpack was $1540, OUCH! I can't wait to get it back. The part is coming from northern California and should be here tomorrow. So they picked up the car on Tuesday and say it will be ready on Thursday, we'll see. Pretty quick turn around if they pull it off. They tell me the part is new.
Yeah the part is likely coming from the Sunnyvale service center
. When my switchpack went out, I told them to expect another owner from the forum so their service folks got two of them.
pharma5
Roadster F#25, Model 3 #36xx
Yes, that should be a new part plus labor. If the part codes right the quoted turnaround should be possible (annual + switchpack)... certainly the desired state for work like this.:smile:
Similar threads
