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Lowering the Model 3

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If by performance you mean straight-line acceleration, true. If you mean track performance, not true.

Sorry, but no. Negative camber can be beneficial to track performance... to a point. There is such a thing as too much. The idea is to keep the tire tread on the road surface during cornering. Too much negative camber, and the outside tire is leaning on its inside edge.

As for stretched tires... that is entirely a style thing. "Stretched" tires do nothing but make the car more dangerous. Unmatched tire sizes are more likely to come off the rim, and you will end up with a greatly reduced contact patch with a stretched setup vs a tire that actually fits the rim.
 
Nope, the fronts went on without any issues so this can be done. Weird thing is this, I haven't found a single member on here that has swapped out the rears for perf. brakes...I find that odd...this also means that you couldn't upgrade rears with Brembo's or Stoptech or any other after market BBK's also.

I am sure a work around will be found one day.


So I swapped out both my front and rear calipers (Rotors & Shields as well) with the performance version. I had no problem at all. The dust shields could not be swapped but the non performance shields cleared the performance rotors. You just have to buy the jumpers for the e-brakes, which I picked up for i think around $100 bucks from Tesla.
 
Would love to hear your opinion/pics with the KWs. Thinking about pulling the trigger with these as well.

I will certainly post some pictures & my first impressions. Install will be done somewhere in February I guess. Drop will be around 30mm because of a steep hill to access my garage. I'm curious about comfort level compared to the stock suspension. I've spoken to someone on Instagram who already has the KW and he was absolutely positive about it.
 
My UP milds V2 make a weird clicking sound when turning. These are my second set. First set was much worse.
i think i posted this already but any spring that pops, clicks or clunks while turning is not seated properly in the strut boot and either needs to be repositioned, greased, sleeved or removed. sometimes the width of the aftermarket spring doesn't exactly match OE and the boot is too small or too large. this will also cause issues.

none of these issues are any more worrisome to the ride safety and quality of the modification, however you should always be aware that any change to the dynamics of an OE suspension impact the geometry and change the weight placement for cornering, etc.
 
for the UP coilovers and MPP coilovers, how do you adjust the ride height? Do you have to remove the wheel and use a special tool to adjust it or can it be adjusted without removing the wheel? Also, how do you measure that the ride height is set to how you want it? I know typically dampeners can be adjusted from the top under the hood/trunk on other cars, how are they adjusted with either of these coilovers?
 
I've never seen a car where you could change the *ride height* without at least jacking the car up to remove the load. Taking the wheels off just makes it easier. Perhaps you were thinking of damping adjustments?

You have to release the lower control to adjust the rear springs on the MPP coilovers (skip to 2:28):

The "proper" way to measure ride height is to measure on the spring adjuster. MPP gives you recommended defaults: MPP Coilover Installation Instructions

UP is a different design, preload and ride height are independently adjustable: Model 3 - Coilover Suspension Installation Guide - Unplugged Performance
 
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I have the Eibach Sportline kit on my Model 3 Performance. The rear drop is too low. I contacted Eibach about it but no response. I'm measuring to the jack points, which should be at least level. The rear sits about 3/8" lower than the front. It's not a huge difference but I think it's just laziness on their part, selling the same spring for multiple cars; that's my theory anyway :)
 
I have the Eibach Sportline kit on my Model 3 Performance. The rear drop is too low. I contacted Eibach about it but no response. I'm measuring to the jack points, which should be at least level. The rear sits about 3/8" lower than the front. It's not a huge difference but I think it's just laziness on their part, selling the same spring for multiple cars; that's my theory anyway :)

Did you mean Pro-Kit?

any pics of how your car sits?
 
So I have read through 40 of these 53 pages and I think I'm going to purchase the T Sports. The drop is perfect what what I want the car to look like..... but I have a question that just popped into my head just before I clicked PURCHASE.... The options to purchase springs are RWD Standard, RWD Long Range, AWD and AWD Performance. I have a "sleeper" performance (AWD Performce but looks like a base model) ..... does this mean I have the AWD Long Range suspension and I should purchase the Long range option or purchase the AWD Performance hoping teh shocks are the same? I don't know if the shocks on the AWD Long Range are the same as the AWD performance as I know the performance has a lower stance. Wasn't sure if it was just a spring difference or a spring/shock difference. Anyone know?
 
Phew..... Dodged a bullet there. Almost bought your performance springs. Thanks for the reply. So, I'm guessing the shocks on the sleeper are different than the shocks on the performance model? I know the springs are different. Just didn't know the shocks were different as well.

Yes. The sleeper is just a software unlocked AWD. The suspension is exactly the same as the AWD. The performance model has different suspension and is slightly lowered vs the AWD.
 
Just got my P3D+ back with T-Sportline springs installed. Ride quality is very similar to stock springs though I didn’t drive too much after picking the car up.

Very happy to get rid of the unsightly gap and no reverse raking going on either. The measurement is equal at the jack points.

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