Lowering the Model 3

[DC813]

@DC813 Stealth = AWD

Do you think any kind of camber kit will be needed for correction? I want perfect camber, if not, damn near perfect. I think the drop is mild enough they aren't necessary but didn't know if you gathered any data/numbers on camber after installation on these.

 

[DC813]

Just got my P3D+ back with T-Sportline springs installed. Ride quality is very similar to stock springs though I didn’t drive too much after picking the car up.

Very happy to get rid of the unsightly gap and no reverse raking going on either. The measurement is equal at the jack points.

Beautiful! Can't wait to get my springs!

 

[DB-Cooper]

Do you think any kind of camber kit will be needed for correction? I want perfect camber, if not, damn near perfect. I think the drop is mild enough they aren't necessary but didn't know if you gathered any data/numbers on camber after installation on these.

What’s “perfect” camber? 0 degrees? Even stock it’s not 0 degrees. My camber post drop is 0.9-1 degree negative which is actually pretty darn good for both performance and longevity reasons.

 

[Bigtuna00]

Do you think any kind of camber kit will be needed for correction? I want perfect camber, if not, damn near perfect. I think the drop is mild enough they aren't necessary but didn't know if you gathered any data/numbers on camber after installation on these.

There's no camber adjustment at all in the rear, so you can't "correct" anything without a "kit". However with lowering springs the rear camber will most likely still be within spec. With my Eibach springs, rear camber was -1.4° and -1.8°. Spec is -2.3° to -0.3°.

I have since installed the MPP Camber arms and am running -1.0°.

 

[MountainPass]

The rear camber spec is very broad, probably because they don't provide adjustment and need to cover all the variables when the car is assembled. For street cars, a good range would be around -0.8* to -1.4*.

 

[DC813]

What’s “perfect” camber? 0 degrees? Even stock it’s not 0 degrees. My camber post drop is 0.9-1 degree negative which is actually pretty darn good for both performance and longevity reasons.

Sorry, that's what I meant by "near" perfect, keeping it at or less than -1.0. I just Don't want to destroy the tires prematurely. Thank you for the reply! Your car looks awesome BTW.

 

[Huskyfan]

Just put UP super performance springs on my Performance model. Front wheel wheel is 27” from the garage floor, the rear 27 3/8. Noticeably better ride quality. Feels tight and firm; BMW ride quality. No jiggles, rattles, etc. Cornering is flatter. No increase in noise or harshness. Definitely worth the time and money. I did the install myself. Not the toughest mechanics job I’ve done (pulled a VW GTI transmission out to replace clutch; that was a bitch to do in a garage). The improved handling, ride quality and aesthetics made it worth the cost in time and effort.

 

[Junni]

Just put UP super performance springs on my Performance model. Front wheel wheel is 27” from the garage floor, the rear 27 3/8. Noticeably better ride quality. Feels tight and firm; BMW ride quality. No jiggles, rattles, etc. Cornering is flatter. No increase in noise or harshness. Definitely worth the time and money. I did the install myself. Not the toughest mechanics job I’ve done (pulled a VW GTI transmission out to replace clutch; that was a bitch to do in a garage). The improved handling, ride quality and aesthetics made it worth the cost in time and effort.

Very nice to hear! Great to see the comfort increases, and jiggles & rattles are diminished Gets me even more impatient for the KW V3 upgrade.

 

[i.am.aj]

i just ordered the mpp sport coilovers + rear camber & toe arms.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

There's no camber adjustment at all in the rear, so you can't "correct" anything without a "kit".

Huh? Who told you that?

The Model 3 Service Manual shows 3 places to adjust camber in the rear: Lower aft link to knuckle bolt, Lower aft link to subframe bolt, and Upper aft link to subframe bolt.

 

[bandwagon]

Very nice to hear! Great to see the comfort increases, and jiggles & rattles are diminished Gets me even more impatient for the KW V3 upgrade.

Check out the @MountainPass coilovers - they’re KW spec’d for the 3

 

[Junni]

Check out the @MountainPass coilovers - they’re KW spec’d for the 3

Thanks, but I already ordered the KW V3 last month...just waiting to get a date for placement

 

[Bigtuna00]

Huh? Who told you that?

The Model 3 Service Manual shows 3 places to adjust camber in the rear: Lower aft link to knuckle bolt, Lower aft link to subframe bolt, and Upper aft link to subframe bolt.

MPP Arastradero Model 3 Rear Camber Arms | Mountain Pass Performance

" The OEM suspension does not allow adjustment of rear camber."

Maybe Tesla has added some eccentric bolts in the meantime, but mine doesn't have them. Either that or the service manual is just referring to slop, which can be used to make minor adjustments.

 

[dfwatt]

MPP Arastradero Model 3 Rear Camber Arms | Mountain Pass Performance

" The OEM suspension does not allow adjustment of rear camber."

Maybe Tesla has added some eccentric bolts in the meantime, but mine doesn't have them. Either that or the service manual is just referring to slop, which can be used to make minor adjustments.

The Eccentric bolts are part of the toe in adjustment. The stock suspension allows only toe adjustment both front and rear, front via a classic tie rod Arrangement, and rear via a really clunky eccentric cam. There is no camber or caster adjustment without aftermarket Parts on either front or rear suspension. Additionally, there are a lot of problems with the eccentric cam approach to doing toe including the fact that it's very difficult to dial in toe precisely, as rust gets in there it becomes even harder, and both of those problems are obviated by the MPP toe and Camber arms. While dropping the car an inch or so typically results in about just under one degree negative front camber and about 1.2 to 1.5 degrees negative rear camber which is ideal for the street, it's not enough for the track, and occasionally dropping the car will get you out of spec in terms of alignment. So while technically you don't need the MPP toe and Camber arms, they really make the car much easier to dial in. I have both the sports coilovers and the rear camber and toe arms. They're very high quality pieces and they do drop some unsprung weight as well.

 

[Bigtuna00]

I think you're quoting the wrong person

 

[Laa1121]

Zero noise or squeaks with Eibachs; 4,000 miles on them.

Which Eibach springs did you get? I’m thinking about getting the Eibach Pro Plus Suspension Kit with the sway bars.

 

[DB-Cooper]

Which Eibach springs did you get? I’m thinking about getting the Eibach Pro Plus Suspension Kit with the sway bars.

Pro-Kit for Performance model with performance suspension and 20” rims.

 

[TheD]

Very happy to get rid of the unsightly gap and no reverse raking going on either. The measurement is equal at the jack points.

Absolutely beautiful and perfect drop. I have the exact same build in Midnight silver, but the new wheels look so much nicer on white.

Would you mind sharing your height at the jack points with these springs? Thank you.

 

[aspec818]

Still waiting on some springs that drop less than 1”. I want a true mild drop on my p3d.

 

[MountainPass]

Huh? Who told you that?

The Model 3 Service Manual shows 3 places to adjust camber in the rear: Lower aft link to knuckle bolt, Lower aft link to subframe bolt, and Upper aft link to subframe bolt.

We would love a photo of the adjuster on your car if this is the case, so far we haven't seen this!