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Macsboost vs N2itive

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Q

qictrk

Member
Sep 27, 2021
9
4
Fresno, Ca
#1
My rear tires on my 21 Plaid have to be replaced a third time because of excessive wear. The car has under 12K miles. Big price difference between these two companies. Do they both do the same thing? Why the difference in price? Does the costlier one give something extra?
No tires for me till I get a fix, maybe Tesla ??? :eek:
 
#2
You may not need to go with adjustable camber arms. I went with the Macsboost Camber Kit and solved my issues for a lot less. This isn't even going with their adjustable camber arms which are a bargain compared to the N2itive ones. I don't mind spending money I just hate overpaying for stuff.

I am 2k+ miles in and my rear tires still look great. They were gone in 5k miles before. Best money I've spent on my S.

www.macsboost.com

Tesla S X Camber Kit 2021+ Palladium - MACSBOOST.com

The MACSBOOST.com Camber Correction Kit is the ultimate fix for 2021+ Tesla Model S and X tire wear. Easy Installation with ultimate durability!
www.macsboost.com www.macsboost.com
 
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#4
To recap, there are lots of threads on here. Many refreshed S's (2021+) have excessive negative camber in the rear. This causes excessive tire wear on the inner area of the tires and typically only shows up when running 21" tires. There are lots of ways to remove the excess negative camber. Doesn't really matter how you do it, but reducing it will reduce/eliminate the inner tire wear in the rear.

You can go for the lost option, that you can't adjust, that I personally used and listed upstream. This will likely work for the vast majority of people. If you want to spend more, you can buy adjustable camber arms. The Macsboost ones are about $500 currently and IN2itive about $1200. They both do essentially the same thing. Which is "better" is up to you to determine. Keep in mind that Tesla typically hates aftermarket parts and there are almost always warranty implications.

That is why I went with the simple camber kit rather than a lot of bling. Does it give me the granularity that adjustable camber arms would give me with precise adjustment of my camber? No, it will not. Did it get me out of the zone where I had excessive wear and still good camber for the street? Yes, it did. If my car was an extreme case, I couldn't adjust for it. I find it highly unlikely that anyone was worse than mine with my tires basically gone in 5k miles. So far things are looking vastly better.

If you go with the adjustable camber arms, you should get an alignment afterward. With the camber kit, they tell you what to do so that you might be able to avoid this. This assumes your toe in/out is where you want it to be. It may not be so get an alignment anyway as that is the other reason for excessive tire wear.

FYI - I have no relationship with Macsboost, just a happy customer saving a fortune in tires now.

A good post to read is this one.

www.macsboost.com

Why does the Tesla S and X have too much camber? - MACSBOOST.com

Elon is a genius. Shouldn't these vehicles be perfect from the factory? To answer this you must ask yourself for what situation are they perfect for. Is it everyday driving, or is it for breaking records on high speed tracks? For the curious, the stock suspension of the Tesla S and X (and...
www.macsboost.com www.macsboost.com
 
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#6
qictrk said:
How do I tell if I have a early or late 2021 Plaid? The last 4 numbers of my Vin are 3287 if that helps.
Click to expand...
Doesn't matter when it was built, your camber and toe is probably way off. Mine was a 9/21 build date and it was absolutely trash.

Macboost kit is just a set of shimsn2itive (or unplugged) sell fully-adjustable camber arms. They're not even remotely the same thing.

If you go with the shim kit, you'll still have the soft bushings on the OEM camber arms, so you're going to see a lot of flex with those. If you go with the n2itive or unplugged arms, you're upgrading the bearings at the same time and it will stiffen up the rear end a little bit. I personally did the arms + new toe arms and now have zero movement with camber and toe on the rear end. The car feels completely different.
 
#7
Keep in mind there is always a trade-off. Going with stiffer bushings will typically transmit more noise and harshness. In an EV, this can be even more apparent. For a street-driven car, there isn't going to be much benefit. If I am going to upgrade bushings, I'll do it throughout the car to get the maximum benefit. I did that before a few times, and it made my car pretty miserable on the street when I wasn't tracking the car.

Macsboost also makes adjustable camber arms; $499.
www.macsboost.com

MACSBOOST Tesla S X Camber arm set - MACSBOOST.com

MACSBOOST Tesla model S and model X ultra high performance adjustable camber arms. Significantly improve tire life and reduce camber! for 2013-2020 Tesla model S and X
www.macsboost.com www.macsboost.com

Here are N2itive's: $995-$1,150.
n2itive.me

N2itive SX-P2 Adjustable Camber Arms - Fixes Tesla X/S Crazy Rear Tire Wear!

LIFETIME WARRANTY - See Why N2itive's Forged Adjustable Rear Camber Arms For Tesla Model S/X PLAID Are The Best For Your Tesla. Weather Sealed, Silent Spherical Bushings
n2itive.me n2itive.me

Here are MPP's; $1450. They are the rear adjustable control arms (both trailing and rear lower control arms).
www.mountainpassperformance.com

Camber Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms For Model S Plaid

Precision. Artful Design. Sealed Spherical Bearings. The Ultimate rear Lower Control Arms For Model S Plaid & Long Range.
www.mountainpassperformance.com www.mountainpassperformance.com

I think its important to note again, that whatever these parts touch on your Tesla, there is a high likelihood that Tesla will not warranty anything they touch or may hassle you about servicing your car. When I went to have my Tesla track pack brake kit on they said they would not do it if I had made any modification to the suspension or any aftermarket parts touched the brake area. It would have to be put back to stock. With the Macsboost camber kit (shim) they had no issue doing it.

Your service center may be more tolerant. Most are not in my experience. I only mod my Teslas in areas where I am willing to take ownership of those parts and any they may impact.
 
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#8
Bushings made an enormous difference. Put a go pro on your rear wheels during launches and full throttle high speed runs, you'll see them flexing. Then do it with the bushings, there's no visible movement. Not changing all of the bushings, just camber and toe. If you want a tighter car, then do all of the arms and MPP bushings on the front, but that's not what we're talking about here - this is just for camber and toe, which are the issues at hand.

Also, the macsboost arms are not for the Plaid.
 
#9
Good point but for most people it won't matter. If it does, you might as well go all the way with the UP suspension kit I've linked below. My car is 99% street. The one allowance I am biased toward track is the brakes. I also live where there are very crappy roads and while more solid can be good, it also means my car gets the crap pounded out of it even more and me along with it. If I lived where the roads were better, I'd be willing to give up compliance for maybe sharper handling and less flex. For all its faults, a Plaid still lapped the 'Ring pretty quickly despite all of its bushings.

I have a few track tuned sportbikes and they just beat me to death every time I take them out. By the time I get to the fun roads, I feel like I rode a bucking bronco to get there. It wasn't an issue when I spent more of my time in Florida where the roads are like billiard tables. Here they suck so bad that I hate to ride them. I cringe and slow down for a lot of them before my car hits the really torn-up area. I'll be glad to stick with my Plaid on the more compliant side even if I get more flex. Even more so since it is our family hauler on trips.

Here is the UP kit to get rid of all your soft bushings and set up the suspension geometry for pretty much whatever you want.
unpluggedperformance.com

Model S / Model S Plaid - High Performance Suspension Package - Unplugged Performance

This is the ultimate package of suspension upgrades to make your 2021+ Tesla Model S Plaid or Long Range come alive in your hands. Cornering grip, stability, and control are dramatically enhanced while the body roll and center of gravity are reduced. This package provides you ultimate...
unpluggedperformance.com unpluggedperformance.com
 
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#10
The UP kit doesn't fix the compression and tension arm bushings. I'm sure they'll come out with something on it soon, but currently MPP is the only option for those 4 arms (I have them, since again, the OEM bushings are trash and all 4 were ripped with less than 30k miles on the plaid).

With the spherical front bushings and toe/camber rear bushings, the car has zero additional NVH. The front ones tightened up the car a bit more than I liked when running the 21", so we compensated for that with an alignment adjustment and now it just holds a line like crazy and no 'dartiness' as someone referred to it as.

That's an actual personal experience, not an assumption.
 
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#11
Sam1 said:
The UP kit doesn't fix the compression and tension arm bushings. I'm sure they'll come out with something on it soon, but currently MPP is the only option for those 4 arms (I have them, since again, the OEM bushings are trash and all 4 were ripped with less than 30k miles on the plaid).

With the spherical front bushings and toe/camber rear bushings, the car has zero additional NVH. The front ones tightened up the car a bit more than I liked when running the 21", so we compensated for that with an alignment adjustment and now it just holds a line like crazy and no 'dartiness' as someone referred to it as.

That's an actual personal experience, not an assumption.
Click to expand...
Glad it worked out for you. Good to hear positive feedback about NVH. You still have much better roads than I am dealing with. Things that seemed good in Florida on my Vette have sucked here. In Florida, I could have had practically no-suspension and been fine. Once things wear out, and closer to the end of warranty, then I'll way my options then.

In the interim, like many, I still have to deal with the lack of service from Tesla if any issues. They are very mod unfriendly here. I am past the point in my life where I have time to spend wrenching on my cars and bikes. So if Tesla isn't supporting it, I am not going to deal with it for the most part. At least on the S anyway.
 
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#13
Definitely worth the effort. You can do it without an alignment. I would strongly suggest getting one done at an independent shop (i.e not Tesla) and having do it with the car in low. That is the setting you will likely be in the most.
 
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#16
DayTrippin said:
Reach out to them directly and see if they can help. Mine went in pretty easily. Did you loosen up everything already? Maybe loosen a bit more.
Click to expand...

Yea raised up both side to high got the two bolts out but seems like there is no way to get the shim in as it hits the frame above arm and the arm will only drop a little. Did you remove the front bolt also? Not sure if it would help to just pull out the arm.
 
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