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Model 3 12 volt battery location

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Easy to get at. Removed some plastic trim after I think it was 7 bolts in the frunk a few days after I brought it home and it's staring at you.
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Looks pretty normal. I wonder, as these batteries age if it will be possible to hook up an external charger/conditioner to them without getting in the way of the cars' electrical system. I have had very good results keeping my ICE vehicles batteries in great shape by hooking up a low amp pulse charger for a few days. Do it about 4 times a year.
 
Wires accessed from the tow hook port in front bumper can be used to open the frunk only when the 12V is dead. Attach a 12V source (jumper cables or a small portable battery commonly found in auto parts stores) to these wires.
Yes, Tesla was responsive to the security concerns with model s/x frunks. See attached from the roadside assistance guide in the glove box.
 

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Looks pretty normal. I wonder, as these batteries age if it will be possible to hook up an external charger/conditioner to them without getting in the way of the cars' electrical system.
Wires accessed from the tow hook port in front bumper can be used to open the frunk only when the 12V is dead. Attach a 12V source (jumper cables or a small portable battery commonly found in auto parts stores) to these wires.
Okay, I admit it, I am a guy who loves symmetry! The single tow port in the front fascia bothers me. To my eye, it looks out of place.

My idea is to cut in a second port on the left side of the fascia in a symmetrical position. I have a trickle charger that is about the size of a deck of cards. I would hook that up to the 12v. battery and leave in place. I would run the male end of the trickle charger cord to the left port on the fascia and hide behind the tow port cover. I would use this when I am out of country for extended periods (in fact I am leaving tomorrow) or for emergency charging of the battery (would take some time and using the Tesla provided access would be quicker) and to balance out the front fascia of the car. I know, lousy idea.

Old street rodders never die, they just get recharged.
 
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Okay, I admit it, I am a guy who loves symmetry! The single tow port in the front fascia bothers me. To my eye, it looks out of place.

My idea is to cut in a second port on the left side of the fascia in a symmetrical position. I have a trickle charger that is about the size of a deck of cards. I would hook that up to the 12v. battery and leave in place. I would run the male end of the trickle charger cord to the left port on the fascia and hide behind the tow port cover. I would use this when I am out of country for extended periods (in fact I am leaving tomorrow) or for emergency charging of the battery (would take some time and using the Tesla provided access would be quicker) and to balance out the front fascia of the car. I know, lousy idea.

Old street rodders never die, they just get recharged.
I use a CTEK battery charger on my other cars with a 12V lighter plug ...keeps the battery charged long term :cool:
 
I wonder, as these batteries age if it will be possible to hook up an external charger/conditioner to them without getting in the way of the cars' electrical system. I have had very good results keeping my ICE vehicles batteries in great shape by hooking up a low amp pulse charger for a few days. Do it about 4 times a year.
I also do this overnight every other month. I wonder if there's any downside to using a PWM conditioner/charger when this battery is in-circuit on the M3.

As a plus though, this appears to be a far smaller/cheaper battery to replace than on either of my current ICE.
 
If its anything like the S or X the car will keep the 12V AUX LA battery floating 100% of the time. Whether its plugged in or not. This is to alleviate the early issues with the AUX battery going dead before we think it should. This is one of the reasons they recommend leaving it plugged in. Because it always has some draw on the main HV battery pack about 5-10% / month. For the person not plugging in there car because of Thunderstorms I recommend getting a good whole house Surge Suppression device like this: MidNite Solar Products

I am quite surprised they have not changed this lead weight over to a Li battery chemistry and remove 20 lbs.
 
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EPA says vampire loss is expected to be <4% per month. I can live with an 8 or 9 mile loss in a month on my SR3.

That figure is for the battery's self-discharge, not vampire losses. The former is what you would see if the battery was isolated, the latter is all of the systems in standby. I don't think there is anyway to completely disconnect the main battery and if you did, the 12-volt battery might die.