Irrelevant. You introduced this irrelevancy as a way of discrediting the notion that batteries with less internal loss offer any advantage. Stick to the original question. Stop introducing irrelevancies. See under questionable debating tactics the definition for knocking down straw men. Actually don't bother.
If it's lasting that long, then apparently your car does not have any problems with the existing batteries from Tesla. Why don't you just get it changed by Tesla?
I do at local short stops but when at the airport for 4-6 day business trip……NO. A one mile per hour drain over 4-6 days? In winter….with winter degradation and vampire drain…no thank you. I’d like to but the hit is too much….sometimes it would preclude me from making my almost 100 mi drive home.
And you conflated self-discharge with phantom drain.......... when the two are not related.
I am 120 miles from a service center. So no easy pickup. And I hate replacing a perfectly good battery with no symptoms. And once I see the warning I hear I do not have long to act.
As someone once said your analysis is not even wrong. You forgot to include the inefficiency of charging of lead acid batteries which is many times over that of lithium ferric phosphate. There's a roughly 10-12% greater charging loss for lead acid chemistry compared to the charging loss for lithium iron phosphate. That's a differential of essentially 10 to 12% for every single wh that comes out of the 12-volt system. That's actually a lot. Way more than your wildly optimistic number.
You can buy a group size 51R battery from any place that sells car batteries and that will fit and work on Model 3.
Okay, but can you explain what the advantages YOU listed are so special for YOU? I am still not seeing a compelling argument for the battery and I am trying to understand it
Really? I didn't think there could be any more reasons not to use USB audio, but here comes a new one. I gave up on USB music fairly quickly due to the many deficiencies. Fortunately, my hearing is less than ideal anyway (too many loud concerts in my younger days and too long since my younger days), so bluetooth sounds OK and my phone has ample storage.
The only way to hear lossless music in a Tesla is via USB music. The compression of streaming and BT is terrible (to me) - I can definitely hear the difference (especially since I had installed a pretty high-end aftermarket sound system). Music quality is very important to me and it is exceptionally rare that I am not listening to anything that isn't from a USB drive (the only time music isn't listened to that way is when I update the Samsung T5 and it needs to re-index (which at 13K+ tracks, takes a while).
Oh, I understand... in my younger days, I didn't even have a TV, just a stereo system with all separate components: large amp, preamp, tuner, turntable. My boss at Dolby Labs had a turntable that costed about $1500 with separate tonearm, turntable, cartridge, stylus. There were some fanatics there who didn't think much of CDs when they came out.
This I cannot disagree with - it is absolutely atrocious
My ~30 minute commute each morning and evening (mostly the latter) is my sanctuary. I let AP (and NoAP for a couple of transitions) take care of the driving so I can just enjoy my music. I know that a car is not an ideal listening environment, but with the exception of one stretch of freeway flyover, it isn't too bad. Having a very solid system to help drown out the world is my release and is quality "me" time.
It is mentioned in my signature, but I had the guys at Reus Audio install their stage 2.5 system. These guys have been around for a while and actually design and have custom-built their own amps, drivers, and x-overs. If you were local, I would invite you to meet me and take a listen: the difference is amazing. While they are Southern-California based, Clifford travels the country doing installs. They aren't for everyone (they are a bit spendy), but if you appreciate better sound, it is worth the money.
It has to be lead-acid (so no AGMs, etc), correct? I read that Tesla is the cheapest alternative. Is that still the case? My car is hitting at 1.5 years old. Is that still a good idea to replace every 2 years, or until we actually get the warning from the dash? Thank you.
Funny you should ask...
An AGM is a lead acid battery, with slightly different charging characteristics. For the most part, it shouldn't make a difference whether the battery is AGM or not. But an AGM battery will cost more than not. I would replace my battery with an AGM because it will have the port to connect the hose to vent any gases under the car.
