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Model 3 Highland Performance/Plaid Speculation [Car announced 04.23.2024]
- Thread starter Daniel L
- Start date
Sellout
Member
But how does that matter for people who aren’t on a mission to educate everyone about how fast their model 3 would be if they just followed procedure properly?
People complain about it because it’s a real issue they’re experiencing on the street, not because they’re just uninformed about how much power you can draw from a battery if you get it hot enough.
The biggest problem I see is that people think “Track Mode” is what makes the car faster and that is the single worst thing you can do for top end acceleration.
I do see your point and I anticipate that the Model 3 Ludicrous will resolve that issue for everyone. I anticipate that it won’t have the temperature penalties in quite the same manner that our current Model 3 Performance cars have.
BigNick
Infamous Fat Sweaty Guy
"Track" is too generic a term I suppose.
Road Course Mode = extra battery cooling for endurance, more regen to minimize brake fade, stiffer overall suspension (assuming some sort of auto-adjustable suspension like on the S)
Oval Mode = even more battery cooling for endurance when drafting, zero regen, stiffen right side suspension for left-turns only (would anyone race an M3P NASCAR-style?)
Drag Strip Mode = heat the battery to 50-60C (whatever it can handle that won't cook it) for absolute max power available plus optimized launch control
Auto-X Mode = zero regen, suspension to maximum stiffness, add some heat to battery but not Drag level?
Road Course Mode = extra battery cooling for endurance, more regen to minimize brake fade, stiffer overall suspension (assuming some sort of auto-adjustable suspension like on the S)
Oval Mode = even more battery cooling for endurance when drafting, zero regen, stiffen right side suspension for left-turns only (would anyone race an M3P NASCAR-style?)
Drag Strip Mode = heat the battery to 50-60C (whatever it can handle that won't cook it) for absolute max power available plus optimized launch control
Auto-X Mode = zero regen, suspension to maximum stiffness, add some heat to battery but not Drag level?
I'm afraid when you're on the highway the Mustang GT lined up next to you isn't gonna wait for you to heat up the battery, and heating up the battery all the time "just in case" isn't really practical. Hopefully the new M3P solves that.
Zcd1
Active Member
Heating the battery is actually practical. It is the same as hitting the "Sport" button in an ICE car. Just hit it whenever you leave your driveway and you plan on getting on the interstate. You don't have to heat the battery everywhere you go. Heating the battery does absolutely nothing for you until after 40 mph. If you are driving on roads that have speed limits less than 70 mph heating the battery won't really help you.
If you know you are getting on the highway and might want to do some pulls then hit the "Precondition" button when you get in and by the time you get to the interstate it will be close to hot enough. People make heating the battery sound like such a huge burden. It really isn't. You heat the battery every time you go to the Supercharger. Why wouldn't you heat it when you want to do some pulls?
SOC is almost irrelevant too. I would take a 55% SOC battery with close to optimal temps over an 89% SOC battery that was cold.
This is a pretty delusional take. Heating the battery takes far longer and uses far more energy than hitting the sport button in an ICE car.
I have seen 60-130 mph times closer to 11.1 for the Model 3 Performance. Yes, I know mine is downhill and had weight reductions but other people have had similar times too. The biggest difference is that these times were all with hot batteries. It makes all of the difference.
Zcd1
Active Member
Yes, it will from 60-120.
Mustang would pass the M3P around 125 mph, but even at 130 mph the cars would be maybe 1/2 car length apart....
What does it matter how long it takes to heat the battery? Are you doing 130 mph out of your driveway? Hit the button when you get in and by the time you get to the interstate the battery is warm.
Honestly, it seems delusional to me that people insist on being able to do 130 mph on city streets every chance they get.
It matters because it’s a pointless step to add to your day to day for a “maybe”. And keeping that battery warmed up uses a ton of energy. Any other car is just ready to go regardless of whether or not you do a rain dance prior to starting your trip.
Zcd1
Active Member
Zcd1
Active Member
It shows the Mustang passing the M3P at about 125 mph, just as I said.
What's also interesting is the pass doesn't happen until the cars have traveled well more than 1/4 mile, so again, unless roll-racing at 3 am in "Mexico", the M3P will be ahead.
If that's your basis, you're wrong. These calculators are generic and don't take into account the real power and torque curves that electric vehicles have.
Also it's clear you've never rolled race before. When I had my Hellcat it was always etiquette for 60 rolls to go up 140 or even 160. That was the point of 60 rolls, to take away traction issues from digs and 20. Considering high HP cars trap way more than 120 (mine trapped 140 modded) it's absurd to just stop at 120, that would be just a couple of seconds. 40 rolls were the main standard but even then we never stopped at 120.
In every single race on youtube the Tesla Model 3 P gets destroyed at 60 rolls and it becomes a slaughter after 120. The tesla always has the instant jump because of instant torque, but then seconds later gets walked hard.
I also have my own experience coming from a 10 speed automatic Mustang GT that just had an E85 tune and headers, and let me tell you I always drove on the street with street drag radials and hitting the gas pedal from 60 snapped my head back harder than my current Model 3 performance does (of course the opposite was true from a redlight lol).
