Model 3 LR AWD bald rear tires @ 4200 miles

[mswlogo]

To be clear, the OP pretty clearly has an alignment problem, that should be checked as the first order of business. But as a general rule for efficiency and tire wear, roaring away from every stop and doing full regen to every traffic light is not a great recipe for good efficiency and low wear. There is likely significant regen from both front and rear when doing it - it's not like the regen in the RWD vehicles is weak.

The OPs efficiency is also pretty poor, as you've mentioned. That's probably partially due to alignment but mostly due to driving style.

How much regening I do, is the last thing on my mind. I'm getting unmeasurable tire wear and 230 wh/mi on AWD 19".

We really have no idea his cause for high-ish wh/mi but there could be a dozen reasons, including driving fast (as he said), maybe lots of AC etc.

But like you said part of his high wh/mi could be related to the same alignment issue causing his rear tires to burn up.

I'm not saying what you said isn't true in general on efficiency or tire wear. But in the context of this issue, too much regen or braking would not cause his problem (Rear wheels burning 10x faster than the front). Heavy braking would raise his wh/mi, sure, but it would more likely wear out front tires faster than the rear. And regen should be fairly even front to back on a AWD (we hope), unless he has something defective there. Heavy braking or to much regen would never cause rear tires to wear out 10x faster than the front on an AWD car. Perhaps on a RWD, but not AWD.

What you saying is a fine tuning on efficiency and tire wear not this excessive rear tire wear.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

How much regening I do, is the last thing on my mind. I'm getting unmeasurable tire wear and 230 wh/mi on AWD 19".

We really have no idea his cause for high-ish wh/mi but there could be a dozen reasons, including driving fast (as he said), maybe lots of AC etc.

But like you said part of his high wh/mi could be related to the same alignment issue causing his rear tires to burn up.

I'm not saying what you said isn't true in general on efficiency or tire wear. But in the context of this issue, too much regen or braking would not cause his problem (Rear wheels burning 10x faster than the front). Heavy braking would raise his wh/mi, sure, but it would more likely wear out front tires faster than the rear. And regen should be fairly even front to back on a AWD (we hope), unless he has something defective there. Heavy braking or to much regen would never cause rear tires to wear out 10x faster than the front on an AWD car. Perhaps on a RWD, but not AWD.

What you saying is a fine tuning on efficiency and tire wear not this excessive rear tire wear.

Agreed. If the OP gets his alignment problem fixed he should be able to get another 5-10k miles out of his front (previously rear) tires, which look like they're around 3/32". They're not at the wear bar yet, and he should be able to drive them down below the wear bar in LA without any drama. He can consider a change if/when the rains come or when safety/fear of legal repercussions dictate.

 

[KenC]

Does Tesla service center not perform a PDI before delivery that involves alignment, pressures, etc.? Every $45k+ car I have every bough this was pretty standard. Concerning, might have to ask them for this as a condition of my future purchase.

For those of us with Home Delivery, I highly doubt the SC ever looked at my car. It was dusty on the inside with fibrous plastic bits on the dash, and dusty on the outside with several bird droppings. I got it with zero SOC, and the driver said he loaded it with zero SOC that morning. No, I don't think the SC ever looked at it.

 

[ChrisH]

LR RWD is also same 42 PSI cold, atleast after 16k VIN.

But I run at 39 Cold to keep it little quieter and for comfortable ride.

Nope my 49,000’s aero LR RWD has 45psi recommended.

 

[boriszima]

Agreed. If the OP gets his alignment problem fixed he should be able to get another 5-10k miles out of his front (previously rear) tires, which look like they're around 3/32". They're not at the wear bar yet, and he should be able to drive them down below the wear bar in LA without any drama. He can consider a change if/when the rains come or when safety/fear of legal repercussions dictate.

I am not a car guru, but since tires are the only thing keeping a car on the road, I don’t think it’s a good idea to go below wear bars. Sure we might have dry weather until December or something but does not seem safe. Not worth a blow out, plus stopping distance might increase of grip is not there.

Like many others here I have just over 12k on my AWD model 3, rear tires show a bit more wear but we know why as front motor kicks in likely only under hard acceleration or at high speed. Rotate tires with alignment check to get most out of your set. If fronts wear out faster just buy 2 more tires for rears and move old rears to front.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I am not a car guru, but since tires are the only thing keeping a car on the road, I don’t think it’s a good idea to go below wear bars. Sure we might have dry weather until December or something but does not seem safe. Not worth a blow out, plus stopping distance might increase of grip is not there.

To be clear, I'm not suggesting he drive with cord showing, well below the wear bars, or with uneven tread wear. I'm also not exactly recommending to drive below the wear bars. It is, after all, illegal in most jurisdictions.

I haven't seen studies, but my guess is that unless the compound is designed to get less sticky as wear increases (or if the tire has been heat-cycled in performance driving), dry braking performance will be largely unaffected by tire wear and may even improve. I suspect it would depend on the type of tire and various other factors.

I don't think blowout risk would be much different either way, after controlling for the age of the tire. The only time I've lost pressure suddenly has been due to a large piece of metal I hit in the dark - sliced the brand new tire wide open. Relative to the thickness of the tire itself, there isn't a huge amount of tread - and the strength is in the steel/kevlar belts. Not to mention you can always have road debris go between tread blocks, even with a brand new tire.

I just think in the interests of lowering costs and helping the environment, the OP should rotate the tires to the front, fix his alignment issues, and wear his front tires down a bit more before discarding them, given his likely dry driving environment for the next 4-5 months.

 

[Big Dog]

To be clear, I'm not suggesting he drive with cord showing, well below the wear bars, or with uneven tread wear. I'm also not exactly recommending to drive below the wear bars. It is, after all, illegal in most jurisdictions.

I haven't seen studies, but my guess is that unless the compound is designed to get less sticky as wear increases (or if the tire has been heat-cycled in performance driving), dry braking performance will be largely unaffected by tire wear and may even improve. I suspect it would depend on the type of tire and various other factors.

I don't think blowout risk would be much different either way, after controlling for the age of the tire. The only time I've lost pressure suddenly has been due to a large piece of metal I hit in the dark - sliced the brand new tire wide open. Relative to the thickness of the tire itself, there isn't a huge amount of tread - and the strength is in the steel/kevlar belts. Not to mention you can always have road debris go between tread blocks, even with a brand new tire.

I just think in the interests of lowering costs and helping the environment, the OP should rotate the tires to the front, fix his alignment issues, and wear his front tires down a bit more before discarding them, given his likely dry driving environment for the next 4-5 months.

Alan is essentially correct. The only reason for tread in tires is to give water a place to go so the tire does not hydroplane. In dry weather, even no-tread slicks are fine (check out race car tires). OTOH, we had some rain this am in SoCal, and if OP had to go to work.....Personally, I'd purchase new and lighten up on the lead foot. (I have 9k miles on my RWD 19's, and plenty of tread left, but maybe I drive like an old lady?)

Not even sure a reputable tire place would move those tires to the front as they are an obvious safety hazard.

 

[mswlogo]

I am not a car guru, but since tires are the only thing keeping a car on the road, I don’t think it’s a good idea to go below wear bars. Sure we might have dry weather until December or something but does not seem safe. Not worth a blow out, plus stopping distance might increase of grip is not there.

Like many others here I have just over 12k on my AWD model 3, rear tires show a bit more wear but we know why as front motor kicks in likely only under hard acceleration or at high speed. Rotate tires with alignment check to get most out of your set. If fronts wear out faster just buy 2 more tires for rears and move old rears to front.

I agree. I wouldn’t run those tires any further. But a blow out is not the big risk. The big risk is hydroplaning.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I agree. I wouldn’t run those tires any further. But a blow out is not the big risk. The big risk is hydroplaning.

Fair enough; clearly a personal choice and dependent on local environment.

Anyway, if I were the OP I would be really upset at Tesla if I had not been driving abnormally. This wear should be covered under warranty if it is due to out of spec alignment.

So take it to Tesla, have them measure alignment, and if it is out of spec, have them cover the tires. And complain until it happens. They have to learn to get alignment correct from the factory somehow.

 

[alloverx]

Yes in WA, (some) tire places will not rotate tires if thread is low. I know this because I experienced this in a friends car few years ago.
Running in dry conditions on low thread depends on your comfort level. If just driving my yourself might be ok with risk, if driving with family/children its likely not worth it.

 

[Marty2018]

Fair enough; clearly a personal choice and dependent on local environment.

Anyway, if I were the OP I would be really upset at Tesla if I had not been driving abnormally. This wear should be covered under warranty if it is due to out of spec alignment.

So take it to Tesla, have them measure alignment, and if it is out of spec, have them cover the tires. And complain until it happens. They have to learn to get alignment correct from the factory somehow.

How did you handle it I got 12000 and the car went in yesterday LR AWD with wear bars showing and almost no tread on rear 2 tires. They want me to pay for tires and seek retribution from continental how do I tell service alert

 

[Big Dog]

How did you handle it I got 12000 and the car went in yesterday LR AWD with wear bars showing and almost no tread on rear 2 tires. They want me to pay for tires and seek retribution from continental how do I tell service alert

I don't know of any car manufacturer that warrants tires, unless they are responsible, i.e., really bad alignment. (sure Tesla SC's might have comp'ed some folks now and then, but I'd be really surprised if that is part of thier service 'package'.) The OP's rear tires appear to be worn rather evenly, as both are down to the wear bars across the tire. (so no obvious physical problem.)

Every ICE car I have purchased has come with a little insert from the tire company with the warranty terms in the owners packet which I received upon delivery.

 

[Twiglett]

I’m at almost 21K miles, LR RWD, 220 WPM
Still got 6-7/32 all round with one rotation

 

[vjason]

Did my first rotate today at 8K miles.

Measures center tread (aero) rears were at 4/32, fronts 7/32. I’ve mostly chilled out after 8 months so I suspect It’s my fault as those first few months were, err, spirited.

Hoping I can eek out a few more months. Maybe I’ll find a set of aero takeoffs for a decent price, which a bit harder to do on the east coast.

 

[Marty2018]

I don't know of any car manufacturer that warrants tires, unless they are responsible, i.e., really bad alignment. (sure Tesla SC's might have comp'ed some folks now and then, but I'd be really surprised if that is part of thier service 'package'.) The OP's rear tires appear to be worn rather evenly, as both are down to the wear bars across the tire. (so no obvious physical problem.)

Every ICE car I have purchased has come with a little insert from the tire company with the warranty terms in the owners packet which I received upon delivery.

 

[Marty2018]

This just doesn’t seem normal wear

 

[chinnam3]

Nope my 49,000’s aero LR RWD has 45psi recommended.

That is definitely interesting and not sure what the criteria is to set different PSI. Atleast out of 20 cars in my local Model 3 group only 2 had 45, and those are before 16k vin. Recent one LR AWD with VIN 390k range still has 42 PSI. BTW, this is for cars in PNW area. Not sure if region/location matters or not.

 

[ChrisH]

That is definitely interesting and not sure what the criteria is to set different PSI. Atleast out of 20 cars in my local Model 3 group only 2 had 45, and those are before 16k vin. Recent one LR AWD with VIN 390k range still has 42 PSI. BTW, this is for cars in PNW area. Not sure if region/location matters or not.

I’m in south King County. Even more odd haha