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Model 3 Performance Battery Degradation One Month (Story)
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I’m now at 42.8 - with that and maybe a few somewhat deeper discharges am seeing over 300 extrapolated range. Previously I was in the high 280s.
I took delivery 55 days ago - dual motor. Drove off the lot with a 90% charge of 280 miles. My very first charge after that only yielded 275 miles. I have less than 2,600 miles on the car today and a full charge is 265 (90%) miles. I am writing my rep to see what the issue could be. Based on this forum maybe a bad cell.
What firmware version is on your car? What is your charge pattern like?
A bad cell certainly would account for that kind of drop.
The Range displayed does not take into account any of that stuff.
The energy graph will show projected range based on last 5, 10, or 15 miles. It jumps around a lot.
OMG not this again. None of this affects your RATED range, which is what the battery meter displays. It affects your actual range but not your rated range.
Not true, it will during a full moon or if your HV cables to your traction pack are cold.
I have the oldest version on your table - 42.2.1 - and I've been emailing my service rep, even sent her this table, told her I have the oldest version of the software on that table, and nevertheless she insists I have the "latest version" of the software . . . . that's weird.
OMG another person jumping to conclusions. All I was saying is now that it is cold up here I am noticing yes heat, seat heaters, lead foot, you get the idea decreases my range. I use TeslaFI I can show you the data points 100% I use more kwh than my wife, she can drive the car further, when I drive over the trip the rated range drops faster. When I sit with the radio, the heat running for an hour while my kids are at piano class guess what I can watch that Rated Range drop before my very eyes. So you are wrong sorry I am sure rated range drops faster when these items are used since I have seen it happen. In the end it's a battey it would be foolish to think that adding current draw does not cause the battery to run out of power faster. I know we are talking about the rated range here and yes over a whole trip depending on what you use or don't use effects how fast it drops.
Looking just at the battery meter as you point out:
With your thinking if you were to start a trip with exactly 300 miles of range, use nothing, drive exactly 100 miles at 100% efficiency you would have 200 miles left. Also you are saying that if you start a second trip with exactly 300 miles of range, use everything, drive exactly 100 miles at 100% efficiency you would still have 200 miles left. How can this be it's obvious that more drain on the battery over the given 100 mile trip will leave you with less than 200 miles left. If you don't think that drawing more current from a battery over a trip reduces your rated range I am really looking fwd to you explaining how this is possible. Again we are talking about the battery meter as you noted.
Rated range is used to asses capacity crudely. What things you turn on or how you drive has nothing to do with it based on it's use as a measure. As a side note, your radio can be on for a day and as a single item would cut your range by about 2 feet. Seat heaters are a low relative draw and the resistance heater is a monster draw. Just an FYI.
Here is the full link to the source of that table.
TeslaFi.com Firmware Tracker
The majority of the cars there are 42.2 & 42.3. But they do start and stop rollouts all the time, depending on issues identified.
2018.42.3 eb373a0 885 26.9%
2018.42.2 19e7e44 1280 38.9%
My advice is don't worry about it, unless there is currently some serious problem with your car at the moment OR your version is more than 2-3 months old.2018.42.2 19e7e44 1280 38.9%
It is getting tiresome . . . . . . to keep having to correct this. Thanks for taking the time, though.
You guys may be talking past each other here.
Number 1: Rated remaining range displayed is ALWAYS based on, a CONSTANT NEVER CHANGING wh/mi assumption. (I hope you're not arguing that this statement is not true, because it is exactly the case for all Teslas.) For my "first production" RWD LR battery Model 3, that constant number used to calculate rated range is 242 wh/mi. For AWD's and other models it's a bit different, but rest assured, rated remaining range is simply (and always) calculated essentially like this: Current Battery Capacity (KWHs) as perceived by the BMS DIVIDED BY a Constant assumed wh/mi consumption rate (242 wh/mi for my car).
Number 2: The only thing that makes the Rated Range number change, ever, is when the perceived Remaining Battery Capacity changes (except bad cells, super cold environment, that sort of thing - BECAUSE THAT AFFECTS CAPACITY). So when you argue that the estimated Rated Range goes down faster when you drive the car more aggressively, versus when your wife drives more conservatively, the only reason why this is true, is because you're using up capacity faster. BUT still, at any given time, when you cast your eyes on the Range number next to your speedo number, that range number is using a CONSTANT wh/mi to calculate your remaining range. So, you're right, the displayed Rated Range goes down more quickly the harder you drive / the more AC or heating you use etc. But that's only because CAPACITY is decreasing more quickly. It is not because the car is suddenly calculating your range using your actual higher wh/mi consumed. It's solely because your CAPACITY is decreasing more quickly.
Number 3: A lot of EV's actually DO use a changing wh/mi to show you remaining range. They take into account your past driving habits and input some calculated average of your ACTUAL wh/mi used in the past, say 5/15/30 miles of driving, and then your range is calculated using that ave wh/mi agains the remaining capacity at that point. However, the Rated Range number you see displayed does not do this. BUT you can see a calculation that IS based on your actual Wh/mi used by going to the energy app and choosing the 5, 15, or 30 mile trailing average calculations that EXPLICITLY use your average wh/mi actually used. But the rated range number next to your speedo is a different beast.
Number 4: All this is to say, when you charge your car to 100%, and you see how many miles range you have, that range number is NOT AT ALL affected by how you've driven the car recently or at all ever, because the displayed rated range number still is using the CONSTANT 242 wh/mi (in my car at least) to calculate your estimated range, against the perceived battery capacity at that moment.
Number 5: So, most importantly, because this is the part a lot of folks get wrong: If somebody says, "Hey, at 100% SOC I'm only seeing 290 miles range, and not the 310 I was expecting". It is incorrect to say to them, "well, that is because your range is affected by how you drive, whether you have the AC on ,or the heater on, etc." No. NoNoNoNo. Wrong 1,000%, as it pertains to that range number they see the moment they get in that car and observe their range after a 100% charge. That decrease in displayed estimated range when a car is at 100% charge is solely due to a change in the BMS-perceived CAPACITY ONLY. It is either because of cold weather (which affects CAPACITY), or a bad cell (which affects CAPACITY), or because maybe they didn't charge to 100% (so they don't have full CAPACITY), or because the battery management system has become out of calibration and so is not using the correct CAPACITY. It's the CAPACITY (as perceived by the BMS) only, that causes that range number (at 100% SOC) to decrease below 310, and nothing else.
So, yes your Rated Range Remaining number goes down faster if you use more energy, and your Rated Range Remaining number goes down more slowly if you drive more conservatively.
But it's still a Rated Range Remaining number that is using a constant wh/mi. Always.
You cannot describe a decreased estimated range displayed on the main screen when the car is at a true 100% SOC as being due to how you drive the car. It is not.
Not true. I drive in reverse and my rated range changes based on my speed and reverse headwind. You can't really dispute that now can you? Also how do I estimate my derated range? I have that on my screen as well.
diamond.g
Active Member
Can you post a screenshot of this?
If you have an iPhone you can use Remote S for it to tell you how much capacity (kwH) the BMS reports is available.
That would be an interesting screenshot, to say the least! He may have to post it from a jail holding cell, after he gets arrested for constantly driving around down in reverse . . . .
I read the first couple pages and the last few posts. Currently growing concerned of my vehicle. With about 4500kms (2900 miles) on the odometer after 2 months, our 90% charge netted a rated range of 417 kms (259 miles) this morning. The car regularly cycles through the battery as we only have 110v charging at home. I've put in a service request with the SC. If OP saw a replacement I would think mine would qualify as well.
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