Sorry for finding another way to ask the same question, but here goes: on a P3D+, I plan on switching the stock 20s to a set of the Tesla Zero-G referral wheels. Same offset of +34mm, but they have a 9” diameter vs the stock 20’s 8.5” diameter. Would a 15mm spacer work in the back? I would think no bc the issue is at the hub?
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Model 3 Performance Spacers
- Thread starter Cyclone1
- Start date
vogz
Member
Same here. Lowering slightly increases range, wheels out - loss of range. I have not noticed any difference, though certainly not testing with any precision. FYI - M3P with Eibach Pro Kit, 5mm front/20mm rear spacers, running stock 20s at 40 psi
Installed spacers today.
The 15mm Blox spacer fitted the front passenger side hub / alloy with no problem. The alloy was removed and we marked the end of a hub lug with white tippex and refitted the alloy, it was torqued up and then removed and no tippex had transferred From the lug tip to the alloy recess surface, Success!!!
Then went to fit the spacer on the other side but on trying to refit the alloy it clearly wasn’t flush! So only two things could be at fault, the hub lug lengths or the recess depths in the alloys.
The lug lengths were the same on all 4 corners.
However, the alloy recesses varied! One alloy had recess depths of 13.9mm, this was the one that accepted the 15mm spacer with no problem, but the other 3 alloys were 9, 9 and 9.5mm!!!!
There you have it! If the Alloy recess is over 12mm then the 15mm spacers will fit. Unfortunately for me only one of the alloys has this, so as a back up I’ve fitted 5mm spacers on the front (Had these made). 20mm on the rear.
Annoying that these Tesla alloys have different recess depths and questions the quality protocol parts go through, or maybe don’t.......
Car was also lowered on H&R springs.
@Cyclone thx for the info. Do you think when the area heats up (weather, braking), the lugs or those recesses in the hub could expand, thereby decreasing the cold tolerances? I’d hate to be running the 15mm spacers (if I even could in the first place) and have the lugs start rubbing in the middle of the road trip or something.
Hi Katie, the heat would have to be very excessive to see that level of expansion.
vogz
Member
Brian N
Member
@Cyclone1 thanks for that info. Anyone consider taking out some material on the recesses? I mean if some wheels have it deeper than others I assume it should be fine. Doesn’t even have to be the whole area just the parts where the studs contact.
Considering people redrill wheels for different wheel patterns to me this would be rather noninvasive? Especially if done my a machinist.
Probably still easier to grind down the studs by a mm or two though lol
Considering people redrill wheels for different wheel patterns to me this would be rather noninvasive? Especially if done my a machinist.
Probably still easier to grind down the studs by a mm or two though lol
Absolutely a possibility...even if you (rather than a machinist) gently relief the areas with a dremel, etc. I personally wouldn't though. The OEM wheels appear like they aren't the strongest anyways, so why further weaken them? Final thing is a simple reminder that, IMO, 15mm spacers are too big for the fronts on a P3D+ anyways...the wheels/tires poke. If you want to do this to fit 10mm spacers it makes more sense to me.
I would hate shaving down the stock lugs. Changes like this are tough to reverse and if you ever go spacer-less you have no reduced the amount of threads you have to work with.
Brian N
Member
To each their own I love the look of the 15mm especially if lowered. I believe you gain some camber? I’m sure 10mm/12mm looks great also. My friend has 20mm up front and to me that is just a little too much. I was actually considering going with some 17mm HR spacers if the 15mm don’t work. 5mm just doesn’t to it for me I would rather go in the other direction and go 2mm more than my ideal than 10mm less.
I know the performance wheels aren’t the strongest but I remember them bending near the barrel? Or are lots of people cracking the spokes? Sorry I don’t come on the forums as much as I should. Yeah a dremel is probably what I would use if it was like 1-2mm but I feel like people on here would go crazy if I said that. It being very close to the center of the wheel I don’t think rotational balance will be affected much. I gotta measure my wheel recesses first. Who knows maybe I got lucky and they already clear.
Replacing the factory studs is fairly easy. Tesla actually replaces the whole hub as it comes with the studs installed from the factory. My friend had to have it done since one of his studs broke inside his wheel and he noticed it a month after delivery when checking the torque of his wheel lugs. He went to service and it was about a 15 min process and they even gave him his old hub. So I’m not too worried about that at all. It might just cost a few hundred if you really needed stock lengths again.
Yep, replacing the studs is a fairly straightforward, and relatively inexpensive job you can do your self with the right tools.
Model 3 wheel studs
Lug Stud Replacements
i've got them, installed yesterday and 20 mm at the rear
Yes I just saw you other post in the NL section. You must have good recesses on your alloys eg 12-13mm. Well done
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