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Guys I have a question it's not that complicated but bare with me, I know there are steps you need to complete after placing your order such as Filling in your information, selecting whether or not you want to trade in your current vehicle and applying for financing (also presenting proof of insurance but that doesn't happen until you get a VIN). My question is, I have not yet selected either trade in or financing because I'm still not sure whether I will sell privately, trade it in or keep it. I've gotten a few sites trade in values at $31,500, $27,500 and $29,000 but I still haven't tried getting a valuation directly from Tesla. I just want to know if not continuing with the process and selecting right now my financing will affect me or my delivery date.

If I'm set on buying the car in a 60 month term should I just chose that without knowing if I'm trading it with tesla or putting the money I get from somewhere else as a downpayment in my application? Is that something that can be modified later on? Thanks for any help I appreciate your time.

edit: I guess I should mention this.
M3P Red on White wo FSD
OD: 3/22
Modified: 3/29
EDD: 5/7 - 6/11
 
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Not in any rush here ultimately. OD 3/10/22 EDD 05/21 - 06/25
Red with white interior
Was originally going to be smart and get the LR since not that great of performance difference but knew I would want to upgrade to the performance later. I did like the ride of the performance better too when I test drove them too.
 
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My question is, I have not yet selected either trade in or financing because I'm still not sure whether I will sell privately, trade it in or keep it. I've gotten a few sites trade in values at $31,500, $27,500 and $29,000 but I still haven't tried getting a valuation directly from Tesla.
imho, Tesla trade in numbers are lower then what you can get from other dealers. Last month, Tesla's "soft" offer for my truck was $42000. With tax credit that was roughly $45000 total, which was ok with me. But they could not commit to that number, because my EDD was so far out. They will not officially make an offer on your trade till your car is ~30 days out. Long story longer, on president's day i shopped my truck to 7 dealers on the "strip" near me. I sold the truck to a Toyota dealer for $47000, netting me roughly $2000 more then the Tesla offer total. I have other vehicles, so I didn't need that particular one, so i went with it.

Regarding financing, that would be up to you. You can wait till you get a vin, then pursue financing either through Tesla or locally. Personally, i am going with a local credit union for 72 months, to keep my monthly payment low as this is a "luxury" purchase. Everyone is different, and my local CU rates are aggressive enough that a 72 mo loan has relatively little interest. YMMV.
 
Yes, but believe it when you are sitting on it.

My case, I had a VIN assigned (MYP) 26 Feb with pick up date scheduled. Day before pick-up VIN disappeared, delivery rep said car has missing parts. 2nd VIN assigned the next day, pick date scheduled. Said VIN has defective door wire harness, can not be delivered - parts ordered resched delivery 2 weeks out. I refused that VIN asked for 3rd VIN. 3rd VIN delivered March 25th.

YMMV.

And finally sold my 2020 MYP with Driveway the day before pick-up. All went well. Waiting on M3P OD 1/29. EDD pushed to Apr/May after several EDD of March. So this also holding me selling my LR Y until solid pick up for this M3P.
M3P Black Black Las Vegas
OD: 1/29
EDD: 3-17 April
 
Guys I have a question it's not that complicated but bare with me, I know there are steps you need to complete after placing your order such as Filling in your information, selecting whether or not you want to trade in your current vehicle and applying for financing (also presenting proof of insurance but that doesn't happen until you get a VIN). My question is, I have not yet selected either trade in or financing because I'm still not sure whether I will sell privately, trade it in or keep it. I've gotten a few sites trade in values at $31,500, $27,500 and $29,000 but I still haven't tried getting a valuation directly from Tesla. I just want to know if not continuing with the process and selecting right now my financing will affect me or my delivery date.

If I'm set on buying the car in a 60 month term should I just chose that without knowing if I'm trading it with tesla or putting the money I get from somewhere else as a downpayment in my application? Is that something that can be modified later on? Thanks for any help I appreciate your time.
The general consensus is to leave the options as "cash" and "no trade" up until you have a VIN assigned. Here's why:

Once you select financing, (by calling a SA and asking them to change if you did not select it at order), your credit takes a hard inquiry. Depending on who Tesla is partnering with for financing, that credit approval will need renewed every 60 days (sometimes sooner). Which means you will have to manually go into the app and ask it to run your credit for approval again (with another hard inquiry) every 60 days. Also, reports here have suggested that forgetting to do this step can DELAY YOUR ORDER until it is completed again. It's easier to just wait until you know the car is closer to delivery. If you have access to a credit union, you can probably get better rates through them anyway.

The trade in is a similar deal with the value Tesla gives you being good for only 30 days. You have to renew this value manually after updating the mileage of your vehicle. (This can also possibly delay the delivery of your vehicle). As others have said, there are numerous websites and local dealerships that will buy your vehicle and most, (if not all), will give you more value for it even if considering a tax deduction as is the case in my state.
 
OD 3/13, Arizona
White/white
EDD: May 8 – June 12

Curious if Arizona deliveries are somewhat quicker given proximity to CA?
I would say yes, as you ordered about a month after me, and your edd is only a few weeks later then mine.

but, this thread has proven that logic should be tossed out the window, so who knows.... :p
 
The general consensus is to leave the options as "cash" and "no trade" up until you have a VIN assigned. Here's why:

Once you select financing, (by calling a SA and asking them to change if you did not select it at order), your credit takes a hard inquiry. Depending on who Tesla is partnering with for financing, that credit approval will need renewed every 60 days (sometimes sooner). Which means you will have to manually go into the app and ask it to run your credit for approval again (with another hard inquiry) every 60 days. Also, reports here have suggested that forgetting to do this step can DELAY YOUR ORDER until it is completed again. It's easier to just wait until you know the car is closer to delivery. If you have access to a credit union, you can probably get better rates through them anyway.

The trade in is a similar deal with the value Tesla gives you being good for only 30 days. You have to renew this value manually after updating the mileage of your vehicle. (This can also possibly delay the delivery of your vehicle). As others have said, there are numerous websites and local dealerships that will buy your vehicle and most, (if not all), will give you more value for it even if considering a tax deduction as is the case in my state.
I ordered my model 3 on 2/21 and I haven’t to update anything as far as my trade in. When I called around the 30 day mark, a sales associate told me Tesla is not doing the 30 day renewal right now because of the backlog of orders.
 
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imho, Tesla trade in numbers are lower then what you can get from other dealers. Last month, Tesla's "soft" offer for my truck was $42000. With tax credit that was roughly $45000 total, which was ok with me. But they could not commit to that number, because my EDD was so far out. They will not officially make an offer on your trade till your car is ~30 days out. Long story longer, on president's day i shopped my truck to 7 dealers on the "strip" near me. I sold the truck to a Toyota dealer for $47000, netting me roughly $2000 more then the Tesla offer total. I have other vehicles, so I didn't need that particular one, so i went with it.

Regarding financing, that would be up to you. You can wait till you get a vin, then pursue financing either through Tesla or locally. Personally, i am going with a local credit union for 72 months, to keep my monthly payment low as this is a "luxury" purchase. Everyone is different, and my local CU rates are aggressive enough that a 72 mo loan has relatively little interest. YMMV.

I had Tesla drop my trade in rate over 15% from the initial offer to what I got at trade in time (nearly $8k drop). My initial offer was ~60 days before edd. During the ~30 day wait to get to the final offer I literally drove the car 15 miles as it was a good offer and I didn’t want to mess it up. Didn’t matter. I totally felt taken advantage of by Telsa on this.
 
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I would assume this is more applicable to quarter end. Tesla is eager report their profit per vehicle so if they prioritize the red ones they boost the profit per vehicle by almost $2k. This is also why FSD supposedly gets priority.
My SA told me we’d get our red M3LR sooner bc “historically the red/white combo gets manufactured first”. Not sure if he’s blowing smoke but not sure why he'd make it up either.
 
I had Tesla drop my trade in rate over 15% from the initial offer to what I got at trade in time (nearly $8k drop). My initial offer was ~60 days before edd. During the ~30 day wait to get to the final offer I literally drove the car 15 miles as it was a good offer and I didn’t want to mess it up. Didn’t matter. I totally felt taken advantage of by Telsa on this.
So they didn’t ask you to update your trade in information during your wait but gave you a different trade in value from their offer?
 
So they didn’t ask you to update your trade in information during your wait but gave you a different trade in value from their offer?

After 30 days they called and asked if I still wanted to trade it in. I said yes. And they had me take another picture of the odometer and redid the offer. This time it came back 7.5k lower. Eg the offer was only good for 30 days.. it expired so had to be redone. And, of course, they want take the car until they’re ready to give you a new one. It’s either a fluke or a scam. I’m going with fluke, but it was a fun experience.