Twincam23
Member
45” fully extended. I never measured the OEMs. Looks about the same. But I did have the 4129 mod before these.
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Model 3 Power Liftgate?
- Thread starter rosjon
- Start date
MarcG
Active Member
@Twincam23 can you please comment on how the foot detection works? Do you have to have the car unlocked first, or is having your phone (assuming it's setup as a phone key) nearby good enough to unlock & open the trunk in one shot by simply placing your foot under the rear bumper?
Twincam23
Member
Yes my phone is set up as a key. I just walk up and swipe under the bumper and it opens.
MarcG
Active Member
Thanks for the info! That’s a very nice feature, I’m just wondering if it’s worth the extra amount of work to install it..
Fernand
Active Member
That's great. Very worthwhile for someone who's putting stuff
in the trunk day in day out. With the opening-only i1Tesla mod,
for whatever reason, with the metal ball joint it seems like the
opening is smoother, less abrupt. Not saying it's as nice as a
full electric open-close, just that it's good enough for me.
@Twincam23
So sorry if I missed that, what what your total price, delivered?
Was there any Customs Duty (tariff) surcharge?
Did they show a specific value on the customs declaration?
in the trunk day in day out. With the opening-only i1Tesla mod,
for whatever reason, with the metal ball joint it seems like the
opening is smoother, less abrupt. Not saying it's as nice as a
full electric open-close, just that it's good enough for me.
@Twincam23
So sorry if I missed that, what what your total price, delivered?
Was there any Customs Duty (tariff) surcharge?
Did they show a specific value on the customs declaration?
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Twincam23
Member
I paid $649 prior to the trade wars. It’s coming from Hong Kong so it might not be affected by the tariffs.
Maybe somebody who purchased after the tariffs where in place can chime in on how much their total was.
How will Hong Kong be affected by the US-China trade war?
How is it holding up? I picked up the same ones from Amazon and installed them today. They are smaller than I thought but of course sturdier than plastic.
Fernand
Active Member
Holding up great. I think these grip the ball a little stronger than the
plastic ones, which is perfect. The paint on the ball is worn/flaked
of course, and there's friction. That makes the trunk opening now
a lot gentler and smoother. If you want to prevent failure to open in
cold weather, greasing the ball/socket is important. It's all metal on
metal now, I'm not sure what the perfect lubricant would be. It might
even be worth sanding those remaining paint flakes off the ball if
it ever sticks on you. I think @i1Tesla picked the right spring and
strut, it's actually quite gentle.
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Well, I got the liftgate kit over the weekend. Worked on installing part of it last night. First thing to run was the liftgate wires through the rubber boot... and I got stuck there. Ran out of light after work, but I think I have a plan. I've unpinned all the connectors on the two liftgate wires and I believe they should fit once I run a fish wire through. Not comfortable bundling the cables on the outside of the boot since that fabric wrap isn't exactly great in water...
For anyone attempting this: Just give up on trying to put the connectors through the rubber boot. I don't see any way they could fit.
More updates to come...
For anyone attempting this: Just give up on trying to put the connectors through the rubber boot. I don't see any way they could fit.
More updates to come...
Fernand
Active Member
I've just suffered an outright failure of my trunk auto-close
by voice command. I tried and tried, but the system just
wasn't responding to the usual "Honey, pls close trunk".
Sheesh, woman, come on, it's just a little rain!
by voice command. I tried and tried, but the system just
wasn't responding to the usual "Honey, pls close trunk".
Sheesh, woman, come on, it's just a little rain!
Austindude
Member
I absolutely agree! Tesla needs to create a Python API, There a lots of talented Python programmers that could create useful add ons to the software. Tesla could easily create a source of optional programs customers could buy for a nominal fee, much like the Google Play store concept.
Garlan Garner
Banned
I got wires through there just fine. Lots of cable pull lube and....it works like butter.
That's how I got the brake light wire to my lighted T. The lighted T has 2 different illumination levels.
1. regular illumination (shown)
2. brake lights ( brighter than shown ).
Forgive me as I took this pic during a snow storm this past winter in Chicago - even though it hides my plate well.
Wires, yes, but the connectors in one bundle... I didn't see a way to get those through without jamming. Just too tight... maybe I didn't use enough lube, who knows.
Update 2:
I managed to mangle one of the two connectors pinnings (the Y connector, luckily) pulling the cable bundle through the boot... but I finally did it. Wires are through, button on the top of the tailgate is installed. I soldered the Y connector up directly to the wire pull since I screwed up the pinout. Turns out, FYI, if you plug in the Y connector without everything else connected (i.e. the powered module), the trunk release button will not work. Had to crawl through and use the emergency release to unlatch...
Next step, running wires to the front... honestly I think I should have everything finished tomorrow. The wire pulling caused me the most trouble here.
More to come...
I managed to mangle one of the two connectors pinnings (the Y connector, luckily) pulling the cable bundle through the boot... but I finally did it. Wires are through, button on the top of the tailgate is installed. I soldered the Y connector up directly to the wire pull since I screwed up the pinout. Turns out, FYI, if you plug in the Y connector without everything else connected (i.e. the powered module), the trunk release button will not work. Had to crawl through and use the emergency release to unlatch...
Next step, running wires to the front... honestly I think I should have everything finished tomorrow. The wire pulling caused me the most trouble here.
More to come...
MarcG
Active Member
Okay, mostly final update... finally ran wiring from front/back, wired in the struts, and did pretty much all the work here... just need to spend time tucking stuff in, and I also placed the driver-side door button in a place that it didn't fit... I'll need to trim that connector and solder it straight on I guess. Or maybe just remove the connector and use the pins themselves...
For anyone else with this kit: do you have to press the button twice to open the tailgate? It seems to unlatch but won't raise until I press the button again. Pressing once will close it fine.
Also, for those installing: make sure to pull the tailgate latch UP (towards the back of the car) when you tighten the screws. I left it loose and let it slide down, and it worked fine until I put the lower trim piece back on. Once that trim piece was back on, it didn't have enough clearance to actually latch properly.
For anyone else with this kit: do you have to press the button twice to open the tailgate? It seems to unlatch but won't raise until I press the button again. Pressing once will close it fine.
Also, for those installing: make sure to pull the tailgate latch UP (towards the back of the car) when you tighten the screws. I left it loose and let it slide down, and it worked fine until I put the lower trim piece back on. Once that trim piece was back on, it didn't have enough clearance to actually latch properly.
One further update: Appears I have trouble reading instructions properly... I managed to clip the CAN H/L wires to the wrong ones (I got CAN H right, but clipped CAN L to the wrong wire). This resulted in my steering wheel controls not working... also the on screen buttons don't do anything (and I assume the app, which I didn't test).
Back to pulling out the drivers side door panels... should be a pretty quick fix, but I'm just hoping the splicer is going to be reusable. It looks like it is... Otherwise, I might be switching to that other type of splicer included in the box (since I have a spare).
I'm kind of assuming this may solve the 'double button press' issue I'm facing.
Back to pulling out the drivers side door panels... should be a pretty quick fix, but I'm just hoping the splicer is going to be reusable. It looks like it is... Otherwise, I might be switching to that other type of splicer included in the box (since I have a spare).
I'm kind of assuming this may solve the 'double button press' issue I'm facing.
Well, final update from me. I corrected the miswired CAN H/L wires, and that got the screen/app working properly as buttons. The double press issue wasn't fixed, though. I contacted Warren and asked for some support, and it seems my control box didn't have the latest update. I popped a microSD card into the control box with an update file he provided, flashed the new update, and sure enough everything works great now!
So, some good news for people fearing this will get bricked if Tesla changes their CAN signalling: there is a method to update these things. I don't know the extent of what it can do, but it's distinctly possible they can provide updates to support modified CAN signals in the future.
Just need to finish packaging everything into the subwoofer corner and this should be a clean install...
So, some good news for people fearing this will get bricked if Tesla changes their CAN signalling: there is a method to update these things. I don't know the extent of what it can do, but it's distinctly possible they can provide updates to support modified CAN signals in the future.
Just need to finish packaging everything into the subwoofer corner and this should be a clean install...
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