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Current would be 300A assuming an absolute 1.0 power factor. Presumably the power factor isn't exactly 1.0, so it'll be closer to ~320A.

It's well known that Tesla Superchargers take 480V 3 phase as the input. The diameter of wire probably isn't nearly as thick as you think. I'd suspect that they would be using 400 MCM wire, as that's about right for 250kW. 400 MCM wire is ~0.6in thick, if it were solid copper (it's always...

Wash it with a pure soap, then clay bar the car. If it doesn't come off with a clay bar, then it's something in the paint. Be careful with the clay bar though, as that can scratch the car even further if you don't use it properly. :)

Could be really bad haloing. Alternatively, did you use one of those 'synthetic' waxes that advertises bonding to the paint and stuff? I've found sometimes those are quite hard to get off and it might just be 'wax' build-up. EDIT: To be clear, you probably need to use a chemical stripper for...

No clue, the FM retrofit didn't even exist at the time of that post ;) I assume it would, though.

Charging tends to overshoot the target percentage by 1-2%. Whatever you have it set at, it hovers around that. So it'll charge to 92%, let it drain to 88%, then charge back up to 92%. This is to keep the contactors from constantly being open.

What would you possibly get by waiting? You paid for HW3 with the FSD upgrade. One of two things will happen when a next revision is released: Existing FSD folks will get a free upgrade Existing FSD folks will either need to buy a new car, or pay for an extra upgrade There's no scenario here...

Yeah and he made no mention of free hardware upgrades either. If you buy any other car ever you won't get free hardware upgrades without buying a whole new car. If you've been following Tesla for any length of time (you have more posts than me and have owned the car longer than me), you...

Or he could give HW3 to those who supported Tesla early by buying FSD. It's pretty simple. Yeah the cost sucks, but it's not like Elon didn't give everyone AMPLE warnings about the price hikes.

You really think the cost of installing the hardware (i.e. $1k+) is really worth the extra data? Their entire fleet now is HW3 going forward, so HW2 stuff gets smaller and smaller.

I get full regen issues at 90% (like 1 or 2 pips worth) if it's less than like 80F outside. Even 70F outside temp causes slight regen restriction in my experience.

Huh. I only have one referral, but for some reason my credits are listed as expiring in 2022. I got the referral back in 2019. Looks like it's going to be OK for 3 years for me? I'm not going to complain though :)

What are you even talking about? When the car is off, the USB connection is not enabled, so the SSD is not powered. Even if it was drawing significantly more power while on (i.e. recording), the upper limit of the USB port would be ~10W. An extra 10W load would be meaningless.

You sure you don't just have a nail in your tire or something? Bothering the service center with a nail/flat issue is pretty silly. Treat it like any other flat issue. I HIGHLY doubt Tesla would cover this under warranty unless you managed to bend a rim which is unlikely, and even then they...

You can still drop your mileage driven and that should adjust the price. I did and it dropped a bit.

It won't. Consider that, assuming you have the proper coverage, while it's getting repaired your insurance would have to pay for loss of use (i.e. a rental car). Given it's such a large repair, that amount of rental car time is going to be pretty high. If it's your fault, I'd guess it'll...

At 28k of repairs, get it totaled. You do NOT want a car that's had 28k worth of repairs back (for an ACV of 35k). That likely means heavy frame damage or battery damage (or both). What benefit do you get for not totaling the car? That's a huge amount of repair time. I'd bet almost any...

Ah, my mistake. Looks like it was $300 when it included the 14-50 adapter as well.

Corded mobile connector has a permanently attached NEMA 14-50 that can't be removed. The Gen 2 UMC has a removable pigtail so you can switch between different NEMA connectors. Gen 2 Mobile Connector is the same thing that came with your car. Honestly, the Gen 2 UMC looks like it's on sale for...

Agreed. Extension cords are generally not rated for direct burial or potential wet locations.

Please, do tell how you get a 3x increase in power loss compared to calculated numbers? With copper, things actually DO follow simple equations. The only thing I didn't account for is any temperature rise and any contact resistance, but 20C temperature vs. 65C temperature doesn't actually make...

No, @johnmodely is wrong. You'll get a slower charge rate because the extra power will get wasted in resistive losses in the cable (heat). What that means is that the voltage at the charger (the input to the Tesla UMC) will be lower under full load. If you have 240V at the breaker panel, it...

I'm sure others will chime in about extension cords being bad yada yada, but one thing I will point out: DO NOT use a 60 amp breaker backing a NEMA 14-50 outlet. That's a strong code violation and definitely a fire risk. A 14-50 outlet needs a 50 amp breaker or a 40 amp breaker. No other...

I assume the cost of a dedicated space to charge your EV would also be reflected in that cost. I doubt it would be $30/mo.

Follow this chart, copper 60C rated: Ampacity Charts - Cerrowire If you want to use wire rated for 60A in the future, you'd need 4ga copper. Honestly, 6ga already sucks to run as-is. If you're just making a short 2-3 foot run from the panel to your outlet, I'd just do 6ga and re-run it later...

Very very much dependent on your commute and how much you can actually charge at that dedicated spot. It seems to me unlikely that the average commuter would charge all 12k miles at their apartment. In my experience, the majority of the big mileage is put on during roadtrips... so I couldn't use...

Sure, cheaper than gas, but if you count it on a kWh basis usually it works out to a stupid amount compared to what you pay for normal electricity. Using $30/mo as an example: Let's assume you drive 700mi/month (10mi/day for 30 days, plus 400 miles in extra 'side' trips...) all of which you...

Realistically, road taxes need to be collected. The way some states are going about it is pretty dumb though. It seems to be higher than the average gas tax, even. Problem is no one wants to submit a log to the government for how much you drive every year because that's a privacy thing... so...

50% charge is when the charge taper starts on 120kW chargers. On the 150kW chargers it starts at a little over 40%. See: https://preview.redd.it/0wpein8nnq331.png?width=697&format=png&auto=webp&s=5439e2b73bb25a96b1a457447ba9ef3fd1ad6ef5 As for why not 150kW peak? Honestly, I don't think an...

In the world where we near 100% EVs on the roads, then I imagine it won't be that bad, since EV chargers will be ubiquitous. Plus, if you own a house, you ideally should never be charging at a charging station yourself. That limits public stations to apartment folks... which ideally an...

No, it's not, depending on what you do to it. This is just like rooting your phone. Sure, that technically could be used to destroy the processor by overclocking the crap out of it and overheating it... but also it can be used for stuff that won't damage it at all. You probably have more ways...

Is this an aftermarket hitch attachment? The service center is not going to install aftermarket products of any kind. You're on your own.

Whether or not Tesla wants to be obstructionist is their prerogative. I'm just telling you the law (at least in the US). If you didn't do anything meaningful (e.g., I just changed the background on my screen for some stupid reason), they legally cannot deny you warranty claims on something...

Elon also loves to make ridiculously overstated, albeit technically true statements. Your assumption of the 'average' being 300k miles is probably misguided. Also, we do roughly know what 100% is on a battery. It's like 4.16V per cell. Which equates to 96s @ 400V. 4.15V on a cell level...

I'm not scaring people. I never implied it would destroy your battery if you leave it at 90%. I'm just saying that if you have a choice, you want to have the car discharge around the 50% point, period. Even Elon has stated this as such. For some folks with short commutes, there's literally no...

Unknown at this point, but if you took 2 batteries and left them at 90% or 50%, I guarantee the 50% one would degrade more slowly. Even Tesla tells you to set the battery to 50% for 'long-term storage' purposes. The reason Tesla tells people to set it to 90% is because the BMS stays better...

It's not in the 'treasure box' section. Go to the 'Apps' -> 'Entertainment' at the very bottom.

Hey now, inside temp was set to 20C on average right? Sounds like there's room for higher consumption if you cranked that up to ~23C :)

Sure, if rates had to be locked in for 5 year periods then yes... but I'm sure in the theoretical world where you had to prepay 5 years of premiums, there would also be ways for policy makers to make you pay more. For example, if you got a ticket... woops you better add another $500 to your...

Car, home, health, and life insurance are all much much different situations though. You're buying policies in many cases where if you had to pay out of pocket, the cost would bankrupt you. Auto insurance can easily cover bills that are on the order of $100k+. There's a hard upper limit on how...

Again, please, evidence that this will damage the battery? Obviously the lower the current draw (and the lower the charging rate) will be nicer to the battery, but the amount of power these things deliver isn't that high. From what I've seen, even on the Performance, you're at around a 5C...

Your were stating that the P3D and 3D were damaging the battery due to them being undersized. Obviously if you use a larger battery you'll get more consistent power output... but for the vast majority of people, having the car accelerate slower when not at 90%+ SoC is totally fine.

How does the car outputting less power when at a lower SoC mean it's damaging the battery? You aren't proving anything with that. The fact that power is decreasing as SoC decreases just means Tesla is doing their job of NOT damaging the battery... Also, a major factor here is that the battery...

Unlike most car manufacturers though, Tesla doesn't have a cadence to their releases. You can always wait for the next model year on a regular car mfg and expect some changes. Tesla might change something between 1 week and the next. There's no equation of 'new model year = new features'...

What? Any evidence at all to this so-called 'problem' ? Also, hasn't Elon already stated the M3 won't get a 100kWh battery? He stated this originally back when it was released, but I thought he reiterated that again after the 'leaked' 100kWh pack.

The question is always asked "should I wait for X to buy the Tesla Y" (X/Y being things, not their cars). The answer is always: if you wait longer, your car will probably get better. But you are probably going to keep waiting a long time if you want to get the 'best' Model 3. I highly doubt...

Not necessarily true. They don't have a limit to the amount they can give you, I think. I've heard of folks getting $300/day in credits before. I've gotten $200/day before and I didn't even ask for extra. Obviously not more convenient than a loaner... but potentially possible.

With any luck, the pigtail terminals inside the juicebox are all ring terminated. Assuming it's not just bare wire or ferrules on wire, it's pretty hard to screw up that type of installation

No cars have smaller batteries. It's possible one of the packs (there's 6 in the Model 3 LR, I think) is damaged? I know someone reported they had a battery issue where they were only getting like 220mi reported on a LR, and Tesla replaced the entire battery pack. Usually I'd say don't worry...

Yup, you should replace that. The plastic around the left pin is clearly warped/melted a bit. It might still work, but I'd be worried something inside is structurally damaged. EDIT: If it was just the pins as others have noted and the connector base itself looked completely fine, I'd say...