Is this basically the trigger that tells the vehicle you are sitting in the seat through use of pressure sensors?
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Model 3 subwoofer install.
- Thread starter SabrToothSqrl
- Start date
blecchus_rex
Member
Can you elaborate? Does "hell of a lot more information" equate to something an aftermarket amp and sub alone can work w/ for the 20-40Hz range that's been missing?
TFSMotorsport
Member
Before v11 the sub done nothing on 20hz sinewave but jumped out of its basket when the sinewave was applied via a phone cable to the amp, after v11 its almost like the phone, a much less agressive filtering has been applied in the new software it seems.
Candleflame
Active Member
yes, thats the DSP and its a good thing. The small sub cant produce anything below 40hz so why send energy which just causes distortion?
obviously annoying with the aftermarket stuff.
TFSMotorsport
Member
What makes you think it can’t produce any sound below 40hz? You realise they have now removed that filter?
I read through this whole thread and want to upgrade the bass for clarity in the least intrusive way. i want to pair a small JL 8" in the oem enclosure with a small 250w alpine amp. The JL sub is a single voice coil. Will I be able to wire a SVC using existing wiring? From what I understand, the oem sub is DVC.
If you are using a new amp and running new wires into the factory box then you can do whatever you want to do.
TFSMotorsport
Member
Rohhee
Member
Yes, you will be fine as long as you keep the svc sub running in the ohm that is giving you the most power out of your amp.
So if your JBL amp is 250w at 2ohms, then get a single voice coil sub rated at 2 ohms. Dual voice coil will give you more options, but that’s more so to get down to 1ohm if your amp maximizes at 1ohm.
Have an issue with my 2021 3 sr+. Just recently installed a hansshow diy harness/lc2/mono amp/single voice coil sub and it doesnt sound good with noth l&r rca plugged into the amp, when i unplug either L or R then it sounds like it should. I tapped the front woofers and ran both rca to the lc2i then rca to amp. Ive triple checked everything and the wiring is correct.
I tapped into the hansshow harness for the audio signal I wonder if that has something to do with it.
I pretty much copied what this guy did
Last edited:
Thats out of my comfort zone. Im still puzzled as to what is causing reverse polarity in my audio signal. Would it be fine just to run rca from one door woofer since im only running a mono block amp?
Worst case ill let an audio shop deal with it.
I just finished (mostly) my Kicker L7T4 + KEY500.1 factory replacement sub/amp! Huge props to RWAudio for his kicker adapter brackets, they were perfect.
This pic shows my super janky factory amp offset brackets haha
Kicker sub/amp
I'm not sure where to put the Kicker amp, thinking throw it under the factory amp or maybe mount it on the seat or velcro it to the carpet somewhere out of the way...
The bass was super loud at low gains, but after gain matching using the website sweep tracks and adjusting lo/hi pass filter knobs, I got everything sounding close to how I like it. The 8in sub at 2ohms is plenty in my opinion. With the bass boost knob in the front I can go from zero bass to creating an earthquake inside.
This pic shows my super janky factory amp offset brackets haha
Kicker sub/amp
I'm not sure where to put the Kicker amp, thinking throw it under the factory amp or maybe mount it on the seat or velcro it to the carpet somewhere out of the way...
The bass was super loud at low gains, but after gain matching using the website sweep tracks and adjusting lo/hi pass filter knobs, I got everything sounding close to how I like it. The 8in sub at 2ohms is plenty in my opinion. With the bass boost knob in the front I can go from zero bass to creating an earthquake inside.
Similar threads
